glens

I don't know. 5/8 drywall is pretty stiff. Times two at stud lengths no more that ten feet oughta work okay. But I've got a painted block wall behind mine, with earthen backstop. Real interesting room...

Well, I feel the only tangible difference between rear-ported (or droned) and any other configuration, in terms of referencing the wall behind, is when the cabinet is so close to that wall that the port tuning becomes effectively altered. Until that point the same phenomena occur regardless cabinet configuration.

The lower-low to full-range-low phasing "problem" elimination would depend on whether the phase shift of a reactive part is constant at all frequencies.

Would be a pretty costly capacitor. Easy set your crossover on the mains at 50hz and utilize your sub-- the forte III would be far worse with the rear passive than the front ported Cornwall. Higher sensitivity and larger mid horn make the Cornwall IV an easy choice probably the best short of anything quite a bit larger. Worse how? Assuming the same applies to the rear-ported Heresy...

Yes. The 2.5 way fixes a problem up towards the crossover area with the tweeter, that's a given. What I'm not enthralled about is the notion I've got (without looking into it at any depth) that up to and through the region where the "lower-lows-only" woofer gets faded out there willed be new phase anomalies against the unit continuing higher. Depending at least how it was implemented. In any event it would require refiguring reactive component values in the low-pass crossover filter if doing a retrofit. Plus measuring, testing, pushing part values, ...

Too much pre-thought going on. The lighting in that photo is, guaranteed, totally different than you've got in your room. A little contrast would be desirable anyway, in my opinion.

Pretty sure there's a Steve Gutenberg video on YouTube talking about the comparison from his point of view. I don't remember when or if ever hearing any Cornwall's (most certainly it would've been in the late '70s). I've happily got a pair of the Forte IIIs and can say I can't see how anyone could go wrong going that route. If there's room and cash for the Cornwall's, then by all means indulge in them. I'm sure they're well worth the extra cost.

Was the information in the second sentence intended to imply PA speakers have compression limiters? What you want to do will either work for you or not. You'll not know until you try it. Should be fine unless you get a little crazy with the SPL.

If rotating a fuse (I'm assuming it's not one inline with a power supply, at any rate) causes a change in sound (quality?) I'm guessing it has mostly to do with cleaning the connection points. I'd guess the same applies to rotating(?) a length of cable as well. I've never addressed fuses in such a manner but have twisted RCA connections back and forth every couple of years when dusting / cleaning the equipment. Can't say I've ever noticed any changes, though...

I'd like to say that I'm not a fan of the otherwise legitimate "it in the room" speaker positioning. It's my opinion that speakers which don't have well-controlled directivity need such positioning, and those that do don't. I was never a fan of Klipsch back in the day, compared to JBL, especially their "pro" stuff. A few years ago I found myself with a very difficult room and decided well-controlled directivity would be a good ally. Ordered a pair of Forte IIIs without even driving an hour to hear them, and am totally elated. I played around some with positioning and found the best results roughly 8" from the rear wall. Perfect. Looks good and unobtrusive. I highly doubt "ambiance tweeters" wood do a single "good thing" for me. Just some expressed thoughts...

Personally, I'd have NAD at the top of the list given in the previous post, and recommend the brand very highly. There's some overlap in those other mentioned brands as the "parent" company is the same for some. Sometimes when a company gets bought their product line remains unfettered. Sometimes it becomes just a name of old that doesn't mean the same anymore. Not saying that's the case in any of the other mentioned brands because I don't know. NAD amplification is all I've ever bought over the past 40 years.

If you've got your speakers out into the room it'll probably have the effect you're seeking. Otherwise, no.

I don't know. As I said there's no way to compare the two on paper. NAD doesn't use "10% THD" at a single frequency as a benchmark.

Should've been a new thread. The initial one remains unresolved after all these years, and I HATE that. For the current dilemma, the solution can be more easily found if the speakers are switched side-to-side and see if the problem follows the speaker or stays with the amp.

I looked up that Yamaha you mentioned. First thing that made an eyebrow raise was "the most trusted brand in home audio" statement... 140 Watts per channel at 10% THD at one frequency only? What kind of specification is that? I have never, ever, seen a spec such as that and have absolutely no way to draw any comparison to anything else! Look up a NAD C 316BEE V2 in your market and see what the price is, would you please?

I wouldn't just spray down a fine finished wood surface with it, though it might not hurt to do so.. In this case I'd douse a rag and rub it into the tar, then use a plastic putty knife to remove the softened "tar." In stages. In any event it's not a "show" surface, right?

WD-40

How's he getting that result? Is he using only one of the two leads in the cable? Why would anyone do that? When I saw the proper way to do a figure eight was going to be shown I thought for sure it'd be "thumbs down" ...

Never be a better time. If you never use it (but why would that happen?) it'll be a few bucks thrown away. But, if you decide later to go that route it'll be substantially more bucks to "hide the wires" then. As a side note, I love new construction. It's my favorite way to make a living of the many different ways I've done so. I always run 12/3 throughout the rooms with a switched leg available in every outlet. Probably too late for that for you now... And, I see in the photos your electrician leaves his mess (the wood chips from drilling). Not very professional... I hate the attitude "someone else can/will clean up my mess."

I'm curious what a "bass type thump" is. Perhaps you'd be so kind as to describe it a little more particularly.

Have you tried swapping the wire pairs to the inputs to the left speaker?

Well, then, a couple inches of concrete sure ought to suffice!

I'm a lover of learning, too. Never have stopped. But when it comes to plopping down on the sofa and listening to music or the TV, I've got more than I need for utter enjoyment.

Yes. Much less extravagantly so. I'm good to go now.

Well, I'm an H-D rider, too. Spend most of my time on my '14 Limited. What's your preference?