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DirtyErnie

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About DirtyErnie

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    Male
  • Location
    Twin Cities, MN
  • My System
    In flux... KG 2.5's (titanium tweeters, rebuilt x-overs) standing by to be replaced by re-built Epic CF-2.
    Powered by a Sony receiver, it's just easier to deal with than the '61 H.H. Scott 222C, sadly.

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  1. Go with whatever is closest to the source format, nothing screws up a good stereo mix like your receiver interpolating a third or fifth speaker that's not on the disk.
  2. Got a description of those cabinets, or a build thread?
  3. Got a look under them again. There's rubber caps over some metal feet with a 1/4"-20 thread up the middle. OK, time to get some spikes. I like @moray james's idea of the ramset spikes, but really don't feel like picking up a box of 200 to do it. Then again, some goober on eBay is selling that exact thing in a set of 8, with stop-nuts, for the price of the 200-pack. What a world...
  4. Maybe I'll try to unscrew them one day. Didn't pay much attention inside the cabinets when I was bracing.
  5. BTW, my CF2 won't accept spikes, the feet are just hard rubber nubs. Nice score on those CF3!
  6. Looking at a 3rd order crossover, there is a Series element, shunt element, and another series element. In the high-pass section, that's a series capacitor, a shunt inductor, and another series capacitor. As I under stand it, these three elements are each adding 6db to the slope of the crossover, and the shunt element should be between the two series elements. Typically, the series elements are of different values, moving their respective break-points to slightly different frequencies depending on they type of x-over you're after (L-W, Butterworth, whatever) This leaves the question: Does it matter which order the series elements (capacitors specifically) appear in the circuit? Are there specific engineering reasons for typically putting the smaller capacitor first and the larger one second? Could the order be reversed without significant change to the behavior of the circuit? Thanks!
  7. Did a cap job on one, haven't done the other yet, checking up on the difference. My Sony receiver might be more responsible than anything, but still sounds good and has the automatic EQ function with it's cheesy calibration microphone. Only thing I don't really like is the horn is noticeably louder than the 8" woofers. Not sure if an L-pad or manipulating the crossover CD slope is the right trick, but the Sony does handle that for now.
  8. What size/thread for spikes on a set of CF2s? Not super impressed with the lower frequencies and want to try spiking them to the subfloor. I will say, the lower extension is great, but not much authority. Smallish room, maybe 13x15, 800 square foot first floor with three bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen.
  9. There are many ways to skin a cat. Klipsch, being a large producer, is likely to aim for the one that costs less. Quite a complex crossover posted for the Econowave, CF2 is much simpler.
  10. You're right about what a constant directivity Horn does, but all the (manufacturers) literature and theory I've seen about the beasts says they need a 6db/octave power increase above about 5KHz to keep a flat frequency response across their wider directivity. I'm pretty sure (granted, it's from about an hour playing with Xsim) that the first 1.75uf cap sets that 6db/octave slope, as it's -3db break point with an 8-ohm driver is around 12khz. If that's the case, one could theoretically be able to take a -3db attenuation from the whole Tweeter Horn by moving that point a half octave higher, to around 18KHz.
  11. Doesn't that first 1.75uf cap set a 6db slope to compensate for the constant-directivity of the horn? I see the same set-up on my CF2's, same horn I think. Would it be possible to both decrease the volume a bit (3db) and extend the treble by moving that cap's break-point up a half octave?
  12. Your DC resistance measurement is going through the crossover coils into two parallel 8 ohm woofers, so that looks about right. The tweeter is 8 ohms, above the crossover, and the woofers are 4 ohms below the crossover. It's a trick to keep the levels similar; tweeter is high efficiency horn, woofers get +3dB by having two of them, and another +3 dB by having half the impedance/drawing twice as much power. Would be fun to see the impedance curve through a frequency sweep.
  13. With the RF-260's and a 5.x speaker set-up, I'd vote for finding a 7.x receiver that can bi-amp, and then bi-amp the RF-260's.
  14. So, has anyone done any more design or test work on the subwoofer variant on page 52?
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