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DirtyErnie

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About DirtyErnie

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    Twin Cities, MN
  • My System
    In flux... KG 2.5's (titanium tweeters, rebuilt x-overs) standing by to be replaced by re-built Epic CF-2.
    Powered by a Sony receiver, it's just easier to deal with than the '61 H.H. Scott 222C, sadly.

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  1. Yes, but above the pass-band for the 4 ohm circuit is an 8-ohm circuit taking the load, third order, so two series capacitors and a coil shunted to ground. Where one circuit starts to phase out and change impedance, the other circuit is phasing in and dropping into it's pass-band. Knowing what we know of KG/Epic/KLH + series impedance traces, it seems the WTW, TMWW arrangements are nominally 8 ohms, but love to drop down into the sub-4-ohm range lower in the frequency bands; right where they're going to draw the most power. Solid state amps, good ones anyways, don't have a problem with supplying the current. Tube amps are a little more picky, especially small pentodes like the EL84s in question. I'm definitely going to try this when I get the time. Will do one speaker at a time and a lot of listening. Should be fun.
  2. Read both of the forum post links, neither seems like the situation at hand. Since each tap would be feeding a band limiting filter (crossover), only the pass-band frequencies would be able to get out of any given transformer tap. Third order crossovers would keep the overlap down to a reasonably small amount. Current/power won't be going where it shouldn't go. How the Scott is set up for feeding speakers: there are two identical strips, one for each channel. Each channel has: two 0-ohm/neutral taps, and one each of 4, 8, and 16 ohms. Each tap is a screw terminal, suitable for bare wire or a fork lug. Ultimately, this is a variation of Bi-Wiring, isn't it?
  3. Question to be answered: if these speakers were designed for solid state drive, the woofers are getting +3dB for being x2, and +3dB for pulling 2x power from a solid state supply. Might bet on Glens thought of tweeters going +3dB...
  4. Not quite sure what that has to do with the discussion at hand.
  5. That's a question in my mine, too: where does this wiring scheme put the speaker load on the plate curves? It's likely the low impedance of the woofers was too 'vertical' of an operating line to begin with and they weren't getting powered quite right off the amp (was running from the 8-ohm tap). Setting that Load Line to it's correct position could only help, and with a tube amp that means more left-right (voltage) swing before the load line blows out the top of the plate curve (runs out of current). I'd think re-aligning the load lines for woofers and tweeters could only improve operating conditions for the power tubes and force less correction through the NFB loop. Fun mental exercise, this. Too bad the KGs are in my basement lab, not exactly a 'critical listening' environment. That doesn't matter with solid state, but we're not talking about sand.
  6. Glens, the KGs were good, but I don't think they were top-shelf. Anywho, might try it some day.
  7. Had a thought about this: I have a Scott 222C, it has 4,8,16-ohm outputs and two 0-ohm returns/commons. (Edit: per channel!) I also have a pair of KG2.5 and a pair of CF2 speakers, both have WTW arrangement, 8 ohm tweets, and a pair of 8 ohm woofers in parallel. Thinking of splitting the inputs on the x-over boards, direct wiring the hi-pass filter to the 8 ohm OPT tap and the low-pass filters to the 4-ohm tap. Then each frequency band would be getting fed by the correct tap and reflecting appropriate loads back to the power amp. Any good reasons to stop right there and come back to sanity?
  8. I'll also echo the tag board/construction paper method. I've done this with my CF2's and an old Kustom 4x12 cabinet when I was playing bass and gigging a bunch.
  9. Well, disregard everything I just posted... One speaker was wired backwards. Effenheimer! Nice to finally have some bass, though.
  10. That's probably not far off from where I have them turned right now. Maybe I'll post a picture some day. 😉 I'm loving how these things throw sound through the whole house without getting that loud. The horns could probably use an L-pad, maybe with some HF EQ to balance everything.
  11. I tried the CF2's straight-ahead, and it wasn't great, weird kind of hot-spot in the middle, and a bit of a 'head in a vise' hot-spot right down the middle. Then tried them toed-in, pointing directly at the MLP, the hot-spot in the middle sounded better, but it was even more of a 'head in a vise' affair. Now I have them toed-in pretty severely, so that the horn directivity on both speakers covers both the main and side sofas in the (small) living room I have. Things are much more even-handed now. Sound got even better after letting the cheap sony HTIB receiver run it's calibration sweeps with the supplied microphone. Yeah, it's not strictly hi-fi, but it's working pretty well on my budget (and with small children, I'm definitely not putting the vacuum tubes back on display )
  12. Not really that, more of the modern YouTube type. Flat-Earther and all that stuff. Basically, one of those guys that thought he knew something but was missing a little bit of basic physics. There's a lot of garbage out there, and a little bit that isn't garbage and will piss a fella right off.... Anyways, back to tubes.
  13. Edgar, that's about what I was thinking it would be.
  14. Let's riff on 'open baffle' vs 'infinite baffle' for a minute. any real appreciable difference? Maybe it's my perspective, when I think 'Open baffle' I'm thinking of a board with a speaker in the middle of it, usually reserved for Lowthers or somesuch. "Infinite Baffle" makes me think of what JohnA posted.
  15. Seismic Audio Earthshaker. Allegedly a stronger motor version of their Richter model. Infinite baffle into the basement has crossed my mind. (Attic it's right out, there's a good 2' of fiberglass and blow-in insulation up there). Speakers in the cream Fender clone are Carvin PS12B, some kind of Eminence re-branded. Beta, I think.
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