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DirtyErnie

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About DirtyErnie

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    Male
  • Location
    Twin Cities, MN
  • My System
    In flux... KG 2.5's (titanium tweeters, rebuilt x-overs) standing by to be replaced by re-built Epic CF-2.
    Powered by a Sony receiver, it's just easier to deal with than the '61 H.H. Scott 222C, sadly.

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  1. ^^ Both amps claiming to be waaay out on the flat part of the curve. How much resistance between there and the driver itself? Or even to the inputs at the crossover? What's the actual delivered damping factor? Probably way less than 3K. Either way, I'm jealous and I want one of those. 😁
  2. I've come to understand negative feedback as an Error Correction, and the fewer errors it has to correct, the better. Damping factor? Just need 'enough', and your cables degrade it. Functionally, it's a log curve, amps that claim to be out in the flat part usually end up on the curved part after speakers and cables are hooked up, and beauty is in the ear of the beholder. Aren't the Subjective Art Hobbies fun?
  3. I think that talk started in the world of P.A. systems and low-efficiency HiFi. If you're smacking speakers with high power for long periods, distortion frequencies up into the ultrasonic range might cook your tweeters. Really isn't a concern with high efficiency horns, and low power amplifiers. Distortion products tend to be lower order, and likely lower frequency in the low power world.
  4. Those compression/port plugs are beautiful.
  5. "A man's got to know his limitations." Detective Harry Callihan, SFPD
  6. So does mine, but you have to go a few steps father to make the surgical changes and flatten impedance where it needs to be flattened.
  7. It may be a better approach to analyze the crossover and find out which components are responsible for causing the impedance variations in the first place, and then apply targeted corrections there.
  8. Definitely get the electrolytics out of there. When they go bad, high ESR, the crossover starts pushing too much mid/high info through the woofers. That can really make a mess of things when all 3 drivers are trying to reproduce the same frequencies. The electrolytics are in the shunt and LCR positions, so just about any film cap should be a huge improvement. The series-pass caps in the tweeter section are much more critical for quality. I'm taking the easy way out and letting a Sony receiver auto-calibrate my speakers (after xover rebuild). The amp is definitely the weak link in the chain, but convenient and toddler-proof.
  9. ^^^ This. Even better, only do one section of one speaker at a time. I did that method on a set of KG2.5's several years ago. The biggest difference was in replacing the bipolar electrolytics; speakers were surprisingly congested and flat before that move. Used ERSE poly's there, and a Crites kit for the rest. The other caps, the titanium domes were nice improvements, but swapping the old bipolars was mandatory to get the crossovers working right. I could have stopped there and been happy... ...but that's not what this hobby is about for me.
  10. Just went through something similar in a JBL unit. Short version: chassis was made of Aluminum, which oxidized, and increases resistance in the ground paths. Fix for my unit was to take the amp out, open it up, and get some "conduction improver paste/grease" where boards meet chassis and chassis meet brackets.
  11. @slovell , any updates on your toe-in?
  12. For me it's all about the flux. A syringe of 'chipquick' changed my whole game for the better. There's so much control, and so little waste, I'm not feeling at all bad about it costing $12. The joints are beautiful.
  13. Are we prepared to talk about the moon?
  14. Maybe. If my brain's not broken tonight, I though high screen voltage was harder on tube life than high plate voltage.
  15. 18 might well be fine if you run your power cables to the 'lows' input and jump 18awg from there up. Highs take a lot less power.
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