DirtyErnie

I had to build a little load-box for my cartridge, 47K CC resistors and 100pF styrene caps. After that, straight into the interface. 24/96 into the computer, whatever RIAA curve i can find. Audacity has one, works pretty good. Ardour is a full DAW and a little more complicated to use, but there's a pretty good RIAA filter with a few choices and some other EQs and things. Before I built the load box, things were so noisy, think it was all static crackle.

Set up a pair of Wharfedale W70's for my father-in-law. They sound nice, pretty smooth, but they do get a little congested and don't have the dynamics. The more horns I get, the more horns I want.

Craig, Glad you're doing well, and best wishes in the future. Zinc + Quercetin (or any other ionophore) does a good job knocking out most viruses.

Dude, that's a friggin' wall. I really doubt you'd need more than two of the subs and a pair of tops to blow everyone out of the shop. Unless you're gonna do Movie Night with full surround sound. I'm realizing 20 years after, that two of the subs on the left and a LaScala for top would have been the bass guitar rig I needed...

That's a very classy set-up you have there, enjoy!

If you're running in Triode mode, the amplifier is a lot less sensitive to speaker impedance variation than a Pentode amp. That said, higher level Edcor stuff has a great reputation. That said, if it sounds good enough as-is, why change?

Crossover, possibly. change out the bipolar electrolytics. They look like small cans, maybe green or purple.

I picked up a pair of Peavey titanium screw-ons for the CF2's. They were definitely a little brighter, maybe not as smooth as the stock aluminum, but I didn't run the Audyssey EQ on them, so there ya go.

Finally updating this one, turned out the baffle hold-down screws were stripped and loose. I drilled the holes out, plugged them with 1.4" dowel, and used some bigger flanged-head deck screws to secure the front plates. Problem solved, things is solid now.

I can't answer your question, but would recommend at least trying them on the 4-ohm taps of your tube amp. They probably say '8-ohms' on the back, but in the words of Mr. K: "Bullshit!". Two 8-ohm woofers in parallel is a 4-ohm load where music is asking for the most power. The RF82 should be efficient enough to do quite well with the Decware amp.

Seems my old JVC DVD player sounds much better than anything else in the low-buck setup. If you're going the digital signal - to - DAC route, I'd bet the actual disk-reader would count for a lot less at that point.

Can we please agree to type that as 'H-IV'? 😬

Any amplifier that's happy with a ~4 ohm load will do well. Word on the street is that the Epic series does love to eat some current.

Dangit, that's deer season...

"I have no idea what the Frequency Response Curve is of the Epic CF-3, but with RF-7s the problem is providing enough current to handle a jagged curve on a couple of frequencies that dip below 4 Ohms." Sure, they're 'rated' at 8 Ohms, but the low end (where all the power goes) is two 8-ohm speakers in parallel. With an ST-70 (or any tube amp) I'd probably recommend using the 4-ohm taps and matching the impedance where the power demand will be greatest. Bummer the guy decided to keep 'em. Maybe he had to threaten himself with the loss to realize what he had. They're special.