DirtyErnie

LOL IDK, maybe the big tree over the deck to take out the living room and buy me a new one? paying debts.

LOL, I love 'em all, but have room for nothing else. If the house was bigger... ;-)

Can you hear the glitch at the beginning with (can't remember which...) McGuinn or McGuire singing, before they decided to give the track to The Mamas & The Papas?

703 threaded, 1 3/8" x 18tpi standard 702 bolt-on. 1" throat.

Man, you have a pile of speakers. That figured walnut looks great now that you've sorted it out. Great score & GOOD JOB!!

'83, yeah, it definitely is more of a guitar amplifier thing. In a home hifi sense, I kinda see it as some sort of gimmick. Sure, you can do it, and you'll likely not have any problems, but that doesn't make it a good idea. Ultimately, it's your ears and your gear: season to taste. The amp mentioned in the forum post above and my response to it seems to be running EL84's at somewhere around 600V (judging by idle current and dissipation mentioned by the designer). That's territory few dare to tread. I might be willing to push an EL34 or 6L6 that hard with ~300v screens, but never anything on a 9A base. There's certainly a lot more headroom with HiFi, and that allows 'getting away with' stuff that would let the smoke out of a guitar amplifier in a proper hurry.

Doing a little reading about the amplifier mentioned, sounds like a high-voltage, lower-current implementation on that amplifier. But physics is physics; unless he has a good current-limiting circuit on the screen grids, plugging a 4-ohm speaker into a sub-4-ohm tap will force the load-line lower, will increase your Class-A power, and will push the load-line out the left side of the chart, and that will cause lots of current to want to flow out the screen grids if you push the tubes to the limits. You can't cheat physics, but you can mold it to your advantage if you're willing to accept the consequences (and maybe design around them).

With tube amps, a 4-ohm speaker on the 8-ohm tap will run the tubes out of current before they hit their minimum voltage. This won't give you max power, but also won't put the tubes in a fundamentally bad state. Load line comes out the top of the curves. an 8-ohm speaker on the 4-ohm tap will (at full power) run the tubes down to their minimum voltage with current capability to spare. Load line comes out the left side of the curves. This is when the screen grids start to conduct heavily. It's possible to torch your tubes like that. Again, this is in a max-power situation, probably (hopefully!) more applicable to guitar amplifiers than HiFi. I feel a good rule-of-thumb is to match the tap on the amplifier with the actual lowest impedance that happens in the bass region. If that means a 4-ohm woofer is being used, use the 4-ohm tap and it should keep your amp happy. Power drops off as frequency goes up, so the midrange impedance peak on your speakers would still keep the actual load line in the middle of the map.

If you're going to treat areas A & B as one room, a pair of LaScala/Belle/Cornwall would probably work very well. Area C is smaller, you'd probably want nothing larger than a Forte in there; a pair of Heresy might work nicely. If you do come up with a pair of K-Horns for the bigger room, expect to have to build Mr. K's 'false corners' to support them with a proper corner. I'm envious of your project, good luck!

Calculate box size using bass reflex alignments (mh-audio.nl) Have fun.

Could probably stand to replace the electrolytic caps in the crossovers. Otherwise, run 'em. Some like the titanium tweeter diaphragms, others don't. follow your ears.

Maybe some DeOxit in those connections, as well?

No. Mark Levinson amplifiers are STRICTLY VERBOTEN! 🤸‍♂️

the woofers should be hooked up in parallel to the crossover. bad solder joint, maybe a bad spade connector.

Maybe that one was the Cokie Monster. Should go count all the turbos he killed on the Cummins-swapped F-100 on a drag-week event.