DirtyErnie

Mullard. I had some branded as IEC. Tried them in a tube microphone, very 'pipe & slippers' warm.

Somehow ended up with Mullard made 'IEC' tubes in a Plush PA head. Was tube-rolling with another guitarist and his Mesa TriAxis & 2/90 rig. IECs in the first two positions, amps re-started. He cocked his head after the first chord. Hit another chord, his eyes got big. Then he started playing "Iron Man" with what can only be described as 'great enthusiasm', 'cuz those tubes nailed the sound. It was glorious. Mullard 12AT7's in a tube mic were a beautiful pipe & slippers kinda warm-n-fuzzy. JJ Gold Pin got the call there as well as in the TriAxis. Clean and more versatile for what we were trying to get on tape.

The angriest and saddest I ever saw a guitar player was when I told him he couldn't gig with the RCA 12AX7s I'd put in his Deluxe Reverb for recording.

More limited than SWL, but Scott 222C. Original Telefunkens are magic. RCA 7189 are almost as good. JJ EL84 were busy and edgy in that circuit. I backed the screen grid voltage down to ~315v and they sounded much better. Not magic like the Telefunkens or RCA, but I could certainly live with them as daily drivers. I really want to build something ~30-50w with JJ 6L6.

Did you get a chance to check into that?

90% chance the sour tone is from the Bipolar electrolytic caps in the crossover. Change them in one speaker and give it a listen, I bet it makes you happy.

@Bhai How are they now?

I had to build a little load-box for my cartridge, 47K CC resistors and 100pF styrene caps. After that, straight into the interface. 24/96 into the computer, whatever RIAA curve i can find. Audacity has one, works pretty good. Ardour is a full DAW and a little more complicated to use, but there's a pretty good RIAA filter with a few choices and some other EQs and things. Before I built the load box, things were so noisy, think it was all static crackle.

Set up a pair of Wharfedale W70's for my father-in-law. They sound nice, pretty smooth, but they do get a little congested and don't have the dynamics. The more horns I get, the more horns I want.

Craig, Glad you're doing well, and best wishes in the future. Zinc + Quercetin (or any other ionophore) does a good job knocking out most viruses.

Dude, that's a friggin' wall. I really doubt you'd need more than two of the subs and a pair of tops to blow everyone out of the shop. Unless you're gonna do Movie Night with full surround sound. I'm realizing 20 years after, that two of the subs on the left and a LaScala for top would have been the bass guitar rig I needed...

That's a very classy set-up you have there, enjoy!

If you're running in Triode mode, the amplifier is a lot less sensitive to speaker impedance variation than a Pentode amp. That said, higher level Edcor stuff has a great reputation. That said, if it sounds good enough as-is, why change?

Crossover, possibly. change out the bipolar electrolytics. They look like small cans, maybe green or purple.

I picked up a pair of Peavey titanium screw-ons for the CF2's. They were definitely a little brighter, maybe not as smooth as the stock aluminum, but I didn't run the Audyssey EQ on them, so there ya go.

Finally updating this one, turned out the baffle hold-down screws were stripped and loose. I drilled the holes out, plugged them with 1.4" dowel, and used some bigger flanged-head deck screws to secure the front plates. Problem solved, things is solid now.

I can't answer your question, but would recommend at least trying them on the 4-ohm taps of your tube amp. They probably say '8-ohms' on the back, but in the words of Mr. K: "Bullshit!". Two 8-ohm woofers in parallel is a 4-ohm load where music is asking for the most power. The RF82 should be efficient enough to do quite well with the Decware amp.

Seems my old JVC DVD player sounds much better than anything else in the low-buck setup. If you're going the digital signal - to - DAC route, I'd bet the actual disk-reader would count for a lot less at that point.

Can we please agree to type that as 'H-IV'? 😬

Any amplifier that's happy with a ~4 ohm load will do well. Word on the street is that the Epic series does love to eat some current.

Dangit, that's deer season...

"I have no idea what the Frequency Response Curve is of the Epic CF-3, but with RF-7s the problem is providing enough current to handle a jagged curve on a couple of frequencies that dip below 4 Ohms." Sure, they're 'rated' at 8 Ohms, but the low end (where all the power goes) is two 8-ohm speakers in parallel. With an ST-70 (or any tube amp) I'd probably recommend using the 4-ohm taps and matching the impedance where the power demand will be greatest. Bummer the guy decided to keep 'em. Maybe he had to threaten himself with the loss to realize what he had. They're special.

2x10" ~= 1x15" for cone area. The Epic series are tuned via port into the mid ~30Hz area, bass is quite good, but they do like a healthy power amp or some sort of active/digital correction. The do sound pretty great with whatever amp you have. They did a great job designing the Epic series, I don't think you can lose either way.

90% chance: loose speaker, or loose speaker baffle plate. make sure all screws are installed, tight, not stripped. 10% chance: bad driver or bad glue seam on the back of the speaker box.

Big Sugar: Turn The Lights On Better Get Used to It Sleep in Late <-- my alarm clock. Gone for Good <-- Reminds me of The Who, only heavier