DirtyErnie

Might be my favorite wood to look at, that ribbon mahogany.

I don't think you could pick a loser with any of those veneers. I'd have a difficult choice between the mahogany and cherry. Bubinga is cool, but it's always looked a bit rough to me.

It was roller-skate red. Was pretty chewed up when I got it, so we stripped it down, cut the cabinet angle to match the chassis, and wrapped it in black naugahyde vinyl. It was nice to be able to use the top row of controls after that, the puffy red sparkle was 'interfering'.

I'd think the top-line names in AVRs hasn't changed much in the past few years. The better part for those of us that dwell in the lower price-points (i.e. me) is that the recommended receivers in this thread keep costing less and less as the months go by.

She's a very well-trained vocalist and does appreciate the sound quality we have in our house, I'll give her that. And I'd love to turn it up until I couldn't hear the children any more (and probably could easily), the kids don't need tinnitus yet. 😉 Maybe it's time to think about hooking up the Bassman 100 and PLUSH PA 100 as monoblocks... 8x 6L6 at 450v should get the party started...

If you still have the woofer, there's probably a place nearby that can fix it. Or there's Speaker Exchange in Florida. They do a good job.

What issue are you actually hearing? Buzzing at all frequencies, one frequency? One crunchy woofer? Sadly, the Epic series is known for having some cabinet issues as well. I thought I'd blown a tweeter, but it was the front panel had a couple stripped screws and was vibrating at 200Hz.

Loud enough my wife tells me to turn it down. To her, that's any level audible above background. Only exaggerating a little.

I think getting mine (CF2) fixed was about $80, totally worth the effort. Can't remember the name of the place in Florida that does a lot of mail-in speaker repair. Their prices were good. Might be able to dig that up at "work" this week. Or, heck, maybe I'll just keep cruising the forum and it'll pop up in another thread: Speaker Exchange.

Also, gently push the woofers in, see if they move freely or if there's a scratching sound. If there's not noise and the voice coils measure good with the meter, the woofer is probably fine. I'd think there has to be a shop within 45 minutes of you that could change a voice coil. Had to do that with my CF2.

Of all the things I didn't do right in college, this is definitely one of them. Dang it...

"The response at the MLP goes out to 20 kHz close to spec and the -3 dB point for the bass is about 16 Hz. I even get useable response (-10 dB) down to about 10 - 12 Hz (depending on which channel is measured since the room isn't quite symmetrical)." 😲

It's probably IR or UV light. That's a pretty amp.

If the crossover is truly 2-way (not '2.5' way, dropping out higher frequencies from the lower woofer), make an MTM tower?

Leveraged technology against time; ran the Marantz Audyssey correction with measurements all around the room, things sound much better now. Would still like to take care of the frequency response at the hardware level, but that can go on the 'someday' list with everything else. Thanks.

Set all speakers to 'Small', Cross-over no lower than 100Hz. Manually adjust speaker levels to taste. I've had strange level issues with different receivers, it just works better to go to the manual setup and set the levels so they're the same and at a good level. Do not adjust distances.

Thanks, Dean. I'll be able to pull them down in the near future for some cabinet work, will check the crossover parts while I'm in there. What I remember of the CF2 schematic is it's a lot more 'basic' than the CF3 and CF4; 3rd order and one LRC on both 'ways'. Highs go through a ~1.7uf and an 8uf, I assume the 1.7 would be doing the CD horn compensation, breakpoint at 8 ohms is ~12K, 4 ohms is ~23KHz (I should check impedance on that driver). CF3&4 also have an autotransformer in 'boost' mode, which I'm assuming has to do with the 10" and 12" being higher efficiency than the 8" and 6.5" of the smaller ones. If that's a K-703 in mine, it's definitely CD, has all the same characteristics of the bigger Klipsch modified tractrix CD horns, scaled down to ~8 3/4" x 5 9/16" with a throat for a 1" driver.

Got some ~1m measurements from my CF2 last weekend. Looks and sounds like something is amiss; CD horn compensation doesn't look to be working. High treble is definitely lacking, very midrange centric sound. I did rebuild the crossovers shortly after purchase, but there was no difference in sound. You can see on the plot, 3K+ drops about 6dB/octave. High-pass series caps are a 1.75uf and an 8uf, stock values. Does anybody know how to flatten that out passively? Active xover rig is out of the question for a long time. @Chief bonehead?

Finally got REW running enough to get some info on the CF2s. First, the good: Spectrogram looks awesome, totally straight line above the room's Schroeder frequency (and then the bass reflex runs an 80ms delay, but 'twas ever thus. The not-so-great: My CF2's have always seemed a bit 'midrangey' and lacking in treble. Well, there it is on the sweep; 6dB/octave roll-off above above ~3.5KHz. It really seems like that should have been taken care of in the crossover, the first high-pass breakpoint is above 10KHz. That should trade horn efficiency for CD compensation, right? Not sure how to fix that without going active (not really an option). 3dB boost autoformers like the CF3 & CF4? My Marantz receiver isn't new enough to be able to log into it's Audacity instance and start messing around in there. I don't really trust the gray Excess Phase line with my set-up, but at least the trend is straight... Anyways, I had fun. Edit/Addendum: re-ran the Marantz AVR's Audyssey correction with every mic position I could give it, frequency is much more flat now. I like it when the easy option happens.

I'm in. You gimme. Twenty dollar.

I'm not a huge fan of using the online inflation calculators to figure historical prices, different methods of calculating inflation have happened depending on political whims. Usually (ignoring random market parabolic curves, finding the baselines) precious metals prices are a bit more insightful. 1959 Scott 299 = $199 Silver in 1959 = .90/oz. = 221oz 221oz at this morning's spot price of $19.90 = $4,400 Gold, $35/oz in 1959 = 5.69oz. = $9,550, but gold wasn't allowed to follow the market at the time, while the dollar began inflating. Let's just go back to silver. ~$4,500 doesn't seem too out of line for a hand-built, point-to-point wired vacuum tube stereo integrated hi-fi. The vintage Scott and Fischer et.al integrated amps are a steal, even after having them professionally rebuilt. End tangent, thank you for playing.

@Ray_pierrewit, are there any updates on your setup?

Please be sure to keep us informed.

Earbuds ain't speakers. 🤪

^^^ These last three posts are Gold. Most popular loudspeakers are bass reflex / ported enclosures, those unload the woofer below the port tuning frequency and it just flaps around under that: Modulation distortion and possible speaker damage are the results. Easiest way to deal with fixing this is at the signal level, before it hits the power amplifier & steeper than 12dB/octave.