I know this thread is a few years old, but when I got my Forte Is and was looking for information, this is one of a few that I found with Google. So maybe it will help someone else. I have a different version of the Is that have the crossover mounted directly to the round binding post cup with no board whatsoever. The inductors are glued to the cup and the autotransformer is on screw posts. Being new to speaker repair I got the caps($50) at Crites speakers along with tweeter upgrade($50). I may have just ordered the correct value caps online, as they were nowhere near as friendly and willing to chat as I had been led to believe. The parts were great and got here quick, so it's your call. I was torn between just doing the caps and moving the entire crossover, but I was worried about damaging the inductors or binding post caps without spare parts on hand, so I just soldered caps. I may go back and relocate the XOs, and possibly set the speakers up for bi-amping to use with my 6L6 SET amp and 90w SS. My XOs were very tight and I had to desolder a few2 leads to move stuff. I had removed the passives once already as one was torn and the other had dry rot cracking from UV rays, they had not been in direct light at the original owners, just very indirect light for a long time. I got the "refoam" kit from Simply Speakers for ~$30, it was staightforward ,but a little more difficult than regular foams. I removed the passive, labeled ande disconnected the drivers replaced the caps, glued the grill posts using E6000 a clear flexible adhesive(I've seen other folks use it in repair videos since) I just made sure the posts were seated and filled the backside with E6000 while they were lying face down. I also regasketed all the openings using Armacell 2" foam insulation tape, I've removed the passives a few times and the Armacell has stayed intact though compressed it still forms a much better seal than the little thin original gaskets. If you're reading this and wondering if you can do the repairs, if you know which end to hold a soldering iron by, I'd say go for it.