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Tom Bird

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Everything posted by Tom Bird

  1. I have a pair of k22R in great condition. $100 + shipping OBO. Single k22k tilted cone $10.00 + shipping Single K24. $40.00 +shipping. I guess I can only put 1 pic up so any pics needed would have to be through PM. More items to follow.
  2. So after reading through this thread I wasn't sure which way I was going to go as far as stiffening up the sides of the base bin. These are 1980 industrial LaScalas. As you can see by the pic I painted these cabinets with Duratex. At this point I don't want to add panels to the side it's a lot more work I could make the fins for inside the base bin but according to this thread it creates other issues and then at the end of this thread I read about the trim. I went out and bought this heavy duty piece of 1/8" thick aluminum channel and think it would do a fantastic job stiffening the outer lip Edge of both sides of the bass bin. Question is should I just do the base bin or do the whole Outer Edge of the cabinet. I think it would spiff up the cabinet and add a little detail to just a blend black cabinet but at the same time I'm hoping it would kill any resonance you get from the base bin. Any opinions out there?
  3. I have an interest in the inductors. will try to PM
  4. Not sure why but two people that were looking for them have not replied. I'm in no rush they're just sitting in my spare room with a bunch of other drivers and speakers all Klipsch Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  5. It makes a beast of a center Channel. LOL Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  6. I guess he found one already. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  7. I have a single cf2 that I modified the cabinet to make a center channel. (Experiment) It worked great but was a beast for a horizontal center channel. I'm willing to part it out. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  8. I will go with K43 E in my industrials. My 1977 were used in 1 home before I got them and are in great shape so will probably leave the. K33 E square mag. Do you know if those would be the 100 RMS or the newer 150 RMS. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  9. Thanks for the heads up. Looks like they are being auctioned. I'm still debating the new K33 E or the new K43 E. I might place a bid later but most likely will come close to the new product price. I would rather to just buy new so they all match and I know they are perfect sonically. I have gotten some good info in this thread and just want to make the right decision. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  10. Pm sent. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  11. I can't find my pics of my woofers. I will verify when I get home from vacation. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  12. Everything is OEM. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  13. Already pulled apart and cleaned all connections. I went as far as pulling the horns that had some good discoloration and repainted them. Painted the outside with Duatex because the factory finish was rough and everything stuck to them. Also AA networks had Dayton audio precision caps in there but I swapped them out for JEM performance (Klipsch approved) caps. The only thing I didn't do was replace internal wiring. Don't get me wrong they do sound great and I know I have room acoustic issues that also need to be addressed but being from 1980 and used basically every day close to the ocean just has me wondering if they are a little played out. I know they are pro speakers but that is a long time. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  14. I have 3 industrials as my front stage and 2 1977 regular LS as my rears. It's my front industrials that came out of a funhouse/amusement park that I'm wondering about. Wondering if refresh with new driver and new diaphragms are in order. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  15. All components of my 3 industrials an 2 1977. LS are working. My concern with my 3 industrials are they came from a funhouse/amusement park and wonder if they aren't as tight as they should be. The sound great but always wonder if newer drivers/replacements would sound tighter/better. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  16. To be honest. I would try one just for the experience but I would rather buy OEM. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  17. I did click on it but I didn't read the full information. I thought the price was for them to recone it. My mistake Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  18. The K33 E sounds much better to me plus I know it's OEM. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  19. Thanks, I didn't know that their was a recone kit for the K43 E. I kept hearing that their are no "Klipsch OEM" kits for alot of the drivers so I lost all hope of that. I have always wondered how good the driver will sound reconed. I would imagine if done correctly and with the OEM it would sound the same. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  20. Thank you for that info. That's what I was wondering RE: the k43 E. Since their is no "klipsch OEM" replacement for it. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  21. That's how I roll. "Out of the house" lol of course with some jazz like stuff as well. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  22. Also wasnt looking for something more powerfully just wondering how close in specs. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  23. I have searched for some of rhis info and not found what I was looking for in specs but I'm not great at these searches and don't know all the proper places to look. I will do more when I get back from vacation. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
  24. Yes I have the industrial LaScala with the k43 E but it was mentioned in this thread that the newer K33 E has a higher power handling capability. When I looked at Deans link to speaker exchange it says it can replace the k43 E. I was just wondering how close it would be to the k43 E. Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
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