HenrikTJ
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Posts posted by HenrikTJ
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9 hours ago, Khornukopia said:
Is it possible to pull the desk out a couple feet (turn it around if needed) and put your seat back against the wall? Then you can listen to your main speakers from an excellent position.
The desk was set like that at first. Right up against the back of the sofa and facing the LCR. However, it turned out having the desk against the back wall made the whole room and setup look way more clean and open with regards to cable management and open space between the desk and back of the sofa. In addition, it looked much nicer having no extension cord running from the back wall and towards the sofa. I never use the HT system whilst on my pc anyways, so facing the canvas was never much of a priority.
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On 3/7/2021 at 1:41 PM, Ceptorman said:
This, a Niles SPK-1 will accept two amps to go to one pair of speakers.
oh! Ill look into this. Didnt know this existed. Thank you!
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On 3/7/2021 at 12:52 PM, Peter P. said:
No, it's not okay.
If you leave the bridging terminals in place, you'll be feeding voltage from one system back into the outputs of the other system. Bad, possibly damaging to at least one of the systems.
If you remove the bridging terminals and run one system into one pair of terminals, and the other system into the other pair of terminals, what results is, one system only operates the woofers, while the other system only operates the remaining drivers (midrange, tweeters, etc.).
Thank you very much!
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On 3/7/2021 at 9:45 AM, inMotionGraphics said:
So if I'm understanding your intentions correctly, it sounds like you would have two separate sound sources and amps driving your rear speakers, one from your home theatre system and one from your computer system. And while I understand that you won't use them simultaneously, I think the real problem is that you are essentially connecting the outputs of each amp to each other. So you're effectively adding a voltage across terminals and circuits that are designed to output a voltage but not the other way around.
Keep in mind that you still need to keep the two sets of binding posts on your speakers bridged so that your tweeter and woofers are simultaneously powered... which is why you'll also effectively be connecting the amps in the two systems together.
Aha i see now, thank you very much!
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Hi
I have both my HT and my gaming setup/home office in the same room. The desk for my pc is placed between my rear surround channel speakers as depicted below. These speakers have two pairs of speaker terminals, so basically can be bi-amped. Is it okay to use the second pair of terminals and hook them up to a separate sound system meant for my gaming setup? If not, then why? It goes without saying that both the HT and PC wont be used simultaneously, but I remember posing this question a long time ago on another forum, and the answer I got was "No, this is not okay", yet no one could explain why...
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From my own experience, no. I have both rp-440c and rp-250c and the difference was so minimal, id rather say which one you choose to go for should depend more on how much space you have.
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Went through something similar with a tx-nr686 I had about 2yrs back. Long story short, did the AccuEQ room calibration which made my speakers sound distorted as hell with horrible scraping. Did my own testing and disabling the AccuEQ didnt make any difference for the sound after running the room correction software. Luckily, my father had an old receiver lying around. Tested it with my speakers and it sounded normal again as if no damage was done. If your speakers sound distorted after testing, try to hook them up to another receiver. Maybe you have a friend that can lend you one or maybe get a really cheap used one. Test with that receiver and see if the distortion persists.
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Since you are basically switching sources when switching between bluetooth and hdmi, you should probably have a look at the db levels when on hdmi
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15 hours ago, tubetwister said:
Thanks for the kind words.
I have a preamp-processor, and separate power amps for each channel. There is more than enough power to drive two speakers at the center.
Might give it a try, just to see how it works.
The two R-820F's in my secondary room might get called to action here.
Well in that case, i dont see any problem in your plan here. If youre confident, then by all means, but personally id hold off until someone could actually confirm that this will work fine.
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Yes, there are devices which hooks up to both AVR and speaker and acts like a transmitter. Sound quality is something greatly affected by doing this, and is therefore not recommended. Then again, its been a long time since ive looked into these devices. There might have been developments which could have contributed to sound quality.
In short, yes its possible, but not recommended. A bit unsure about your sub though. Cant remember having seen a transmitter with that type of connector.
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First off, great room you got here, love it! Just need to know if im understanding this correctly... Are you proposing to instead of having 1x center channel speaker as depicted in the picture, you get 2x new floorstanding speakers, lay them down horizontaly and hook them both up to the single center channel port on your AVR?
I know of many who use floorstanders as center channels instead of the speakers manufactured as center channels. Cant say i know anyone who has what I assume youre suggesting. Initially, i d be concerned about the output capability of one speaker port having to service two speakers. Dont know any of the facts or math pertaining to what i assume youre suggesting here, its merely a concern i think would be worth while digging into before pulling the trigger on two new floorstanders.
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11 hours ago, inMotionGraphics said:
Yes, I agree with @Khornukopia. In my experience, there is usually more sound mixed into the surround channels than the rear surround. You can put the surround speakers on the rear wall, but you should still set them as surrounds, rather than rear surrounds. 5.1 includes "surrounds" while 7.1 adds the "rear surrounds" in addition to the surrounds... your receiver might be clever enough to figure this all out, but I wouldn't take the risk of confusing the format if I were you... 🙂
Yes, its true that there is more sound meant for the side surrounds as opposed to the rear surrounds mixed into the soundtrack of most or any given movie. This, however, doesnt help the listening experience. There is a correct placement for every speaker in a system, and these placements are by no means set in stone and can therefore be offset by a certain amount of degrees here and there. What you cannot do, is place a speaker in a rear surround placement whilst have them hooked up to an AVR or prepro as side surrounds. Im sorry, but what you proposed in your reply is simply wrong and ill advised.
Should your room not have the width for side surrounds, but have the length for rear surrounds. Your only options would be to a) abandon any thoughts of surround speakers, b) at least get some rear surrounds, or c) get those creative juices flowing
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23 hours ago, Khornukopia said:
Logically you are correct based on the physical placement, but most home theater equipment instructions recommend the "surround" connections with the 5.1 arrangement because of the channel lay-out of typical recorded material.
It really doesnt matter what is recommended if the speakers are placed incorrectly. Should powerplay choose to keep the speaker placement as depicted in the pictures, having them configured as rear surround would make much more sense even though side surrounds is what you need in order to upgrade from 3.0 to 5.0. Speaker placement is key not only for a good experience, but more importantly for a correct experience.
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All i know is i couldnt live with that. Return and full refund would be my only option
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The speakers are technically behind you, which will then make more sense to have the speakers connected to your rear surround ports.
Have you considered placing those seats right beside each other? The table can be placed in front of the middle armrests or just removed completely. That way, you make more space on each side, giving you the opportunity to angel your speakers directly to the side of your seats at a 90 degree angle and connect them to your side surround ports and then have a true 5.1.2
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Hi Sergslim
I think going point for point is the best on this one.
The 502SA can be mounted on the wall right up against the roof, firing down whilst in atmos mode. However, im concerned the angles wouldnt play to your plan here with this particular room. If the 502SA is set to atmos in the pictures AR and AL positions, i fear the direction of the speaker would point down towards your knees whilst seated. I havent done the pythagoras math here to back up that statement, but keep in mind that for an atmos speaker to be in the most correct position, it at least needs the tweeter to point at the area above your head. Having the 502SA placed on top of your fronts using the atmos up firing to bounce the sound from your roof and down towards the top of your head would not be a good idea too because the roof is not flat.
The 502S would not work as surrounds in the RR and RL positions on your picture. Surround speakers are one of the speakers meant to be placed at ear level. Having them mounted up against the roof would be more atmos than surround.
My recommendation: Do not buy any speakers meant for atmos or surround, at least not right away. You see I struggle to see how it can be done well enough in this room without moving or removing some furniture. Were I you, Id stick to a 3.1 system
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6 hours ago, klps5734 said:
Hello,
My first post on Klipsch forum. I recently purchased Klipsch Reference Premiere RP-8000F main speakers. I also purchased RP-500C center channel speaker to go with it (as well as a pair of RP-500M, RP-402S surrounds). My center channel speaker sounds ok in HT setup.
Question: Given my set of Klipsch speakers and an option to upgrade to RP-404C center channel speaker, do you see any benefits (in terms of sound quality, mid range dialogues, ETC.) of upgrading to RP-404C over RP-500C?
I am aware that there are better Klipsch center channel speakers like RP-504C or RP-600C that will go with RF-8000F, however, either they are over my budget or have incompatible form factor (weight, size).
So, the comparison boils down to RP-500C and RP404C center channels for me. Would it be better to upgrade to RP404C? I would appreciate the guidance.
RP-404C:
FREQUENCY RESPONSE 59-25kHz +/- 3dB
SENSITIVITY 97dB @ 2.83V / 1m
POWER HANDLING (CONT/PEAK) 125W/500W
CROSSOVER FREQUENCY 500Hz/1500HzQUAD 4” Cerametallic™ CONE WOOFERS
RP-500C:
FREQUENCY RESPONSE 60-25kHz +/- 3dB
SENSITIVITY96dB @ 2.83V / 1m
POWER HANDLING (CONT/PEAK) 100W/400W
CROSSOVER FREQUENCY1800Hz
DUAL 5-1/4" Cerametallic™ CONE SUBWOOFERS
Thanks.
38 minutes ago, klps5734 said:For $100 extra, I have an option to exchange RP-500M with RP-404C. I may not be able to have both speakers at the same time in home to test.
I am trying to understand how well RP-404C will match with RP-8000F in comparison to RP-500M. Or, the difference is going to be negligible/subtle? Any thoughts?
Hello
I currently own a rp-440c (equivalent to your rp-404c) and a rp-250c (equivalent to your rp-500c). The speakers i have are basically the 1.st generation of rp speakers and their 2.nd gen versions are the exact ones you are trying to decide between.
I shall test my speakers against each other and give you an answer. Bear in mind that I will not be able to give insigt into wether or not the rp-404c is better than the rp-500c. I will however be able to shed light on wether or not a center with 4 cones of 4inches are better than a center with 2 cones of 5.25inches. Also remember that sound is subjective. My views and preferences might not match your own. I shall reply within the hour.
CONCLUSION TO MY TEST:
In the test, i focused only on dialogue since thats what the center channel mostly is for. I found my RP-250c to colour the voices with just a tiny fraction more low frequency than the rp-440c. Some s-sounds here and there were noticably deeper-sounding on the rp-250c.
Other than that, I have to admit that I struggled to find any difference at all. The tweeter and type of woofer are exactly the same, which is probably why there were almost no difference in sound. Your rp-404c and rp-500c will share this trait as well.
Have you perhaps considered your avr to be your problem? All avr brands have different amps in them, and all amps will make the same speaker sound more or less different. There are also certain settings on your avr not only to adjust db levels, but might also include settings which can adjust tonal quality for each speaker using a graphic equalizer.
All in all, i do not recommend changing center speaker, but might be worth it to have a look in your avr settings.
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13 hours ago, Bee Bazaar said:
Hello all,
let me start by saying that I'm not an audiophile that feels the need to upgrade my equipment as soon as a new flavor comes out. I do however appreciate a great theater exp. I have a decent setup currently I feel with my Plasma from years ago and manageable Onkyo sound and receiver. I've been pleased with them - esp my plasma; but I'm getting ready to upgrade and I plan on this being my set up for another decade. I bought an LG OLED CX 77". I'm not so up-to-date with the new tech and I'd like to be current for "today" as much as possible with my sound to match my TV.
My living room is open, with a vaulted ceiling on one side and my TV will almost sit directly under the area where the vault starts. so I'm not sure Atmos will be right as half the sound will be vaulted room. The other side is open to the dining room and then kitchen. The room is prob 20' TV to couch then 40' wide, however the TV will sit close to the middle of the 40'. Nice open room for entertaining, not so much home theater maybe. But from what I've read, Atmos up firing speakers prob aren't my best option, which is fine.
So I'm looking at these as my sound:
Marantz SR5012 7.2 Receiver
Klipsch 7.2 "package" which includes:
2x RP-8000F fronts; 1x RP--404C Center; 4x RP-500M surround; 2x SPL--120 Subs.
I want to make sure this will be current with bells and whistles while still being manageable price wise. Im ok to upgrade within reason, but i don't want a receiver that is twice the price or speakers that are twice the price. Those speakers are $3500. Klipsch has another 7.2 package that was like $8500, which is out of the question.
Will this get me done and still be top notch for me? I think I have eArc covered and 4k/120hz. is there anything else that would be strongly recommended? am i way off?
Thanks All!
2 hours ago, wuzzzer said:If your main speakers are going to be RP-8000s you'll want the RP-504C center.
I dont know the price differences between a rp-504c and a rp-404c in your country, but if the difference is doable, then by all means upgrade. However, rest assured the rp-404c is a good match for your rp-8000f. Having a rp-504c isnt obligatory in any way if you have 8000f as fronts.
Other than that, your plans seems quite solid.
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Hi George!
Well, the thing is that the rp-4000f are floorstanders, and hence the name need to be, and are designed only for standing on the floor vertically. This is also a ported speaker design, which means that it has a port/hole on the back of it. Placing this type of speaker right up against a wall, blocking of that port, would in fact change/lessen the sound experience from what it was meant to be.
In addition, the speakers are about 34 inches (aprox. 90cm) tall and trying to mount them on a wall horizontally would probably be a nightmare, not only because of the height, but also the weight, the lack of any mounting holes on the back of the speaker and how ridiculous it would look. It would be like having soundbars placed horizontaly on the walls acting like fronts. I dont mean to be rude, but this feels like a question you could have easily answered yourself by simply looking up the product page of the RP-4000f and looked at the dimensions.
So, do the rp-4000f need to stand vertically on the floor: Yes it absolutely does! No exceptions.
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The RP-series is a higher end speaker series than the R-series.
The tweeters on both speakers are initially the same. The only difference being that the RP tweeter has LTS (Linear travel suspension). That basically means its supposed to be able to give less distortion and improve sound clarity. The woofers on the two speakers are made of different materials. I unfortunately do not know what advantages/disadvantages there may be between them.
It is normal that the speaker emits a very small amount of static sound when the system is on and you get very close up to the speakers tweeter. If the sound is louder, as in that it can be heard from your listening position, check that the cable hooked up to the speaker doesnt have any electronics very close to it. There is very little chance, but that might be the reason. If the sound emitting from the speaker is truly distorted, you may have a wire loose inside the speaker. If you are comfortable doing it, id recommend having a look inside and check just in case. Before doing this, hook the speaker you think might be broken to the center channel and play a movie and see if the sound is still distorted. If you are within the return-period, do not open the speaker. Just return and at least get your money back.
Both the RP and the R is covered and finished with vinyl. None of the outer layers are actual wood grain. They have more or less the exact same build quality.
The RP-140SA is in the same speaker series as your LCR, hence the "RP" in their names. The RP-140SA is more comparable to your LCR than the R-41SA. Your LCR is from the latest RP-series (RP 2.gen). The RP-140SA is from the 1.gen RP series. The differences between the first and second generation are all in all small. The biggest difference would probably be the design of the speaker itself. For a perfectly matched speaker to your LCR, for the hardware and aesthetics, go for the RP-500SA.
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If memory serves, i think those bipole/dipole/dual directional speakers werent recommended when doing atmos as well. Might be wrong though.
In any case, id go r41m everytime out of the two options
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On 12/26/2020 at 8:32 PM, Johnny777 said:
New member here. I’ve had my Klipsch speakers for a few years now. My current setup is:
Onkyo TX NR585
Center Channel - R25C
Left/Right Fronts - RF-5
Left/Right Rear Surrounds - R-15M
Subwoofer R-10SW
The RF-5s are excellent. Very punchy with great clarity. The R25C however is disappointing. It is often hard to make out dialogue and I have it set to +12db and the left and right at -4db just to balance the levels. The rear speakers sound fair but are thin and lack the warmth of the RF-5s.
I've been looking at the RC-7 and RC-62 II to replace the R25C. Does anybody know which center channel would match the RF-5s the best, in regard to equal loudness and tone?
I’m also interested in replacing the R-15Ms with RS-7s. Are RS-7s the best choice or is there something better to match the RF-5s?
Thanks,
John
what @willland said
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You wouldnt have to, no. The guy/guydette who told you that might have been concerned about timbre matching when he/she said that. There is also the aesthetics to think about if that is something you particularly care about. If you go for the rc-64 III, you might want to also swap your rp-280f for a pair of rf-7 III, but it is by no means a necessity. I myself run rp-280f and rp-440c as my front stage and couldnt be happier. There might be some deminishing returns in buying rc64 and rf7 compared to the performance you get for the price of the rp280f and rp450c. Honestly speaking, a demo at a retailer might be your best bet on making up your mind.
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Klipsch Reference Premiere Line
in Home Theater
Posted
By reading this comment section, I guess the country in question is a big factor. In my country, the old RP line speakers usually get discounted by 40-50% for both individual speakers and surround sound or stereo+sub setups. The new RP line speakers usually get discounted by 30%.
In the country where you live, is there a website that tracks every product from every store in your country and their prices from launch? There are two such sites in my country and it makes finding out when a certain product will get a discount and by how much.