HenrikTJ

1. keep them on small. This setting wont make your speaker any limited or less in any regard. 2. Depends on what low frequencies you want your sub to emit. For reference, i have mine set to 120hz. This means that all frequencies ranging from 120hz to 0hz will be emitted from my sub. Setting sub to 80hz means that any frequencies at 81hz and above wont be emitted from your sub. 3. As you know, you can set these settings and levels manually for yourself. I prefer not to use room correction software because theyre never good enough for my liking. Its all up to your own preferences. If you like what you hear with room correction software, then keep it. If you tweak the settings yourself and find your own settings better than the room correction software, then go with that. 4. Fair enough... 0 degrees is the default setting. However, depending on your room, 180 degrees might be better. I recommend playing a base heavy song. Be seated in your sweetspot and see if the base is more powerful at 0 degrees or 180 degrees. The degree you choose should be the one that gave you the more powerful base. If there is little to no difference, then your room is basically good for those two phases at your sweetspot. 5. Power-wise, a new/better receiver would never make a difference with klipsch speakers purely based on the fact that klipsch speakers are among the most sensitive, meaning not much power is needed to drive the speakers. Most klipsch speakers have a sensitivity of 90 ish. That means the amp only needs to put out 1 watt to give you 90 db. Every 3 db you go up from that point requires double the wattage. So 93db=2watts, 96db=4watts and so on. However, keep in mind that all AVRs and power amps will make the same speaker sound different. The speaker-amp compatibility thing is very touch and go, not only because different amps will make the same speaker sound different, but also because sound itself is subjective. What you might prefer, might not be what i prefer. There are several combinations audio enthusiasts swear by, but in the end it needs to be something you yourself like. For the more dedicated consumer, this means endless demos at stores or endless buy-test-return/keep cycles. EDIT: For the less dedicated consumer: Onkyo, marantz, denon or yamaha.

Dont believe klipsch has a center called RC-52c. You probably meant r-52c. If youre stuck spesifically between either rp500c or r-52c to pair with your rp-160m, id go rp500c mainly because it is the closest timbre matched center out of the two you have listed. Keep in mind that rp-160m(1st gen) and rp-500c(2nd gen) is not in the same generation of klipsch rp speakers. There are certain upgrades/changes to the 2nd gen rp speakers. Im not quite sure what changes or how many there are, but i believe there are changes made to the tweeter. The rp-160m is of the first generation of rp speakers, and if you want to keep to that same speaker series and generation, you have the rp-250c, rp-440c or rp-450c to pick from. Purely from an aesthetic point of view, Id much rather go for a rp-250c, rp-440c or rp-450c. Were I you, Id try finding a rp-250c. It is the 1st gen version of the rp-500c, and perfectly matched in sound reproduction to your rp-160m. You should be able to find it for cheaper than the rp-500c and maybe even the r-52c. Used-markets would be a nice place to start the search should you not find any retailers carrying the product. Good luck!

It sounds like you simply need to adjust the gain on the back of your sub. Also have a look on your receivers subwoofer settings. Might just be that its set a bit low. Two subs will equal more bass and power, yes. But, id say going dual sub should only be a priority if you notice that certain areas of your room doesnt get the same subwoofer-impact as other places in your room. The sub you have should be more than capable of keeping up with the rest of your system.

They are compatible sound-wise. Although if you are a stickler for aesthetics, you would probably want to find a 260f or 280f

I think he is living with it just fine. It was after all a flex-post

I agree, but according to OP, the sofa furthest away is almost right up against the wall. Since he got the system for his family, which apparently is big, he cant get rid of that couch

So in your and OPs case, you´d forgo calling them side or rear, and just call them surrounds? I guess if it works with the room and the experience then it really doesnt matter. It just pissed me off how he insisted that whats depicted in the picture was a good side surr position.

Ye i know, however the OP did write in the title of the post that the system was a 5.1.4 so those in-ceilings are probably the x.x.4

hahaha thanks!! just had to check

haha yes, i meant "rear" but couldnt find the word in my head at the time and the closest i got was "back" lol

Hi Had a little back-forth on reddit about this picture and the other guy insists that the speakers at the back are in the right position to act as side surrounds. I just want this forums opinion... Those speakers at the back are in the position of rear surrounds right? EDIT: rear (back)

HT speakers: R: entry level RP: Mid level RF/RC: Top level

Yes. As long as all the hardware is still functional, there shouldnt be any reason why it wouldnt work.

Not too sure, but the apps your tv has can probably be found on the xbox. For instance, netflix can be used through xbox

Alright. In my opinion, upgrading speakers is not a prospect for you right now. What you NEED to do is to get your speaker placements in order. Your center is fine, but you have placed your L/R fronts in what would be your surround speaker placement. To this, I simply say no. Your fronts are supposed to be placed to the sides of your center in a parallel line making up your front stage, otherwise known as your LCR. I can however, to a degree, understand the decisions you have done with your HT setup in this room, but to be honest, it doesnt seem like this room is well suited for anything HT. It seems like the room size is good, but never have I seen a room with 4 entrances. Were I you, Id start re-arranging/re-moddeling the entire room.

Have you placed your L/R fronts 90degrees to the sides of your seating area?

Hi 1) If you play michael jackson in zone2/frontB, that music cannot be emitted from any other speakers than the ones assigned to zone2/frontB. I think the idea with zone2/frontB is that you can play sound from two different sources simultaneously, and on the same system, just different speakers in that same system. So for example, i can have michael jackson playing from your fronts and beethoven from the rears at the same time. When in "zone 2 mode", you go from having 7.x to having 5.x + 2.0. So what would be your rear surrounds become your front b speakers. 2) Since zone2/frontB will limit you to stereo, there wont be a need for a room correction software. Because of that, i dont think you can set audyssey for zone1 and zone2, but i might be wrong. Dont really know. just assuming

Hi 1. Id still go for only one set of speakers for surround L&R. If youre concerned the surround speaker placement wont work for both rows, dont be. I mean, i havent exactly done the math, but side surround placement can be offset by a small angle infront or behind the listener. Place the side surrounds smack inbetween the two rows and im mostly sure youll be golden. If you really want a second set, id suggest having them set up as front wides. Im not too sure if there would be space for front wides in a 20x20 room but im gonna leave that up for you to decide. Wether or not having two sets of speakers for side surrounds would compete or complement each other, im not sure, never tried it myself. 2. In my opinion, no. The 8000s are either dipole/bipole speakers and if i remember correctly, these are supposed to be positioned directly to the side of the listener when used as side surrounds. Because of this, and the fact that you have two rows, you wont be able to accommodate both rows sufficiently. 3. If the direction of the 5002S tweeter can be adjusted, id go for them. If not, then my initial thought would be that either would work as long as your positioning on the roof is perfect. The surrounds would not be wasted in a setup consisting of 4 atmos speakers. The surrounds are ear level speakers and the surrounds are overhead speakers. 4. I dont know if the THX ceiling speakers perform better than for example a RP ceiling speaker, but i would guess they do even though sound is subjective. However, I would recommend having THX speakers for in-ceiling if the rest of your setup also consist of THX speakers. That way, it all looks good aesthetically speaking and you eliminate any chance of different tweeters emitting different sounding audio.bv 5. Yup, pretty much. Dont get caught up in power ratings for speakers, amps and receivers. Most of it is nominal and or false. Just know that any choice you make is safe. REALLY hard to go wrong tbh. 6. Your choice! Either works. If any of the sentences above dont make sense, than please tell me so i can try to rephrase. I wrote this in one go and in the end im not even sure what i wrote... lol

No wisdom here it would seem

Hi Sorry no one have answered you before now. Setting crossovers is kinda an experimental thing and wil be different for some because it is somewhat subjective. However, a safe bet would be to set them the same as your other surrounds. If you`d like some benchmark to go from, then it might comfort you to know that most people would set them between 80 and 120

easy 280f

Hi Sir Im just going to go straight into it. First off, your speaker placement is wrong. The seating also. In addition, the choice of type speakers here for the different channels are sadly wrong. There are certain channels that are initially meant to be ear level and some ovehead. Ear level: FL/FR, Center, SL/SR, SBL, SBR Overhead: FHL/FHR, RHL/RHR Of course there are expections to this in that you can mount a center above a tv and have it firing downwards and SL/SR can sometimes be ceiling mounted as long as they are wide out and firing down to the side of the viewers ear. Same principal for ceiling mounted SBL/SBR. Thing is, these expections go out the window when you also implement a height stage. When you do so, the channels that are initially meant to be ear level has to stay that way. Sorry if the text above was taken harshly. On to the advise part then! The main viewing position, be it the sofa or your recliner, should be placed as best as possible smack inbetween Center and SBL/SBR. Tilt your center upwards with for example a door stop so it fires straight for your nose. Judging from your picture here, you should be able to have ear level SBL/SBR speakers, so please go for that. Somewhere above your SBL/SBR should the RHL/RHR be placed. Directly to the sides of the couch would be the best placement for ear level SL/SR with the accepted 20 degree offset infront/behind the couch from the viewers perspective. In addition, all speakers should be angled to your preferred spot on the couch. If your speakers are ported, have about 10 inches of space from the back of your speaker and any wall behind it. Your FL/FR, Center and FHL/FHR are fine as long as those FHL/FHR are angled properly. Depending on your room, you might want to get a second sub. I realise that i basically just advised you to go out and buy even more speakers, rendering some of those you already have obsolete, buy more, longer and possibly thicker cables, and leave your roof with holes. I dont know if you got any advise from someone before buying and installing this setup. But its just sad and regretable when i think about your money being spent so poorly.

WIRED

Dont think so mate, sorry. From what i can see from pictures, the sub doesnt seem to have any gain knob on the back. However strictly speaking, an app would still be a controller, just a software-based one. I think the only way for you to adjust levels on an R-4B would be to have it playing through your phone or pc where you can adjust the sound directly. But since the sub is part of a soundbar setup, does it come with a controller that can adjust gain? I know you asked for a way to adjust without using a controller, but i dont think you can avoid this since this setup is "active" and not passive.

For dual 12" subs, somewhere around 2000 cft