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HenrikTJ

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Everything posted by HenrikTJ

  1. Hi! If you prefer Yamaha, the a1080/a2080 should be fine. Denon is one of the better ones for movies, but for both movies and music, I myself would go for Marantz. On the topic of atmos speakers, I don't know if any of klipsch's atmos speakers match the KG series. Someone else will have to cover that one. Happy upgrading!
  2. Your problem with the highs probably stems from the brands in your setup. Klipsch speakers are generally considered to have harsh highs and emotiva power amps are also considered to deliver harsher highs.
  3. Well, there is music out there that is being produced in surround sound. For such medias, id definitely listen in 5.1, 7.1 or however many channels its made for. However, if you're talking about the majority of music, nothing beats a proper 2 channel setup on pure direct mode. I have tried to listen in all channel stereo mode and I remember thinking that the music was really weak even when turned up and lacked the basic feeling of conventional stereo.
  4. Hi Daman Not quite sure of what your problem is, but i'll try to cover all/most of the basis right now. If you want to be able to turn on your sub without physically leaning over behind your sub to switch it on, you'll have to have a sub that has its own controller, a corresponding app/software that lets you turn it on from your phone/pc, or have a sub that doesn't necessarily need to be set to "on" every time it needs to be used, but rather set to "auto" which means the sub activates when detecting a signal from the avr. It should be said that the leaving the "on" and "auto" setting on all the time is not advised as it is known to make subs emit a buzzing noice when active but not playing anything. If none of these features correlate to your sub, you will have to turn the sub on and off for every time you want to use it. If what is written above did not help you, then what is written below might be your answer. There are certain things I'd recommend you check before maybe having to use money to fix your problem. Underneath you'll see a list that you can check off in its respective order. 1. Is your sub getting power? Most subs and all klipsch subs have an indicator-lamp on the front of it and will be green when getting power. 2. There is usually a gain-knob and a frequency-knob on the back of the sub. Neither of these should be set to zero. 3. (Have your sub on and a cable plugged into it) The other end of the cable which should be plugged into the avr, hold it in your hand and try to lightly tap the end of the cable with your thumb. (If you hear any buzzing noice emitting from the sub, than thats a good thing. Means that the internal amp works and all the wires within the cabinet are connected as they should) 4. Check your avr settings and see if subwoofer is turned off. 5. Try to play something (If it still doesn't play, its either the cable connecting sub and avr, or its the avr itself...) Good luck! and don't hesitate to ask for more!
  5. Vented tweeter, no base plate, smaller cabinet, some cosmetic differences here and there. Thats basically it i think.
  6. Well... Before ordering a new tweeter from your country's klipsch part supplier, try to take out the tweeter and see if the problem might just be the wires.
  7. You do not need a power amp if you have the 3500, yes. Did that answer your question there? I must say I didn't really catch the gist of your question, and hope I haven't misled you with my poor grammar
  8. Wattage ratings on receivers are just lies anyways. The manufacturers such as denon, marantz, onkyo and so on perform their tests under very specific conditions and circumstances which are in no way realistic in comparison to normal home theater usage. They do this just to give you big numbers such as "200w pr channel", but in reality its just the one channel doing 200w with every parameter beefed up. So if you might be planning on getting more speakers down the line, i'd go for the 4500. If not, then the 3500 should serve you just as well. Both the denons you mentioned are receivers and not pre/pros. This means that both the 3500 and 4500 are fully equipped to run an entire home theater system by itself. Not to say that you can hook up power amps to your chosen denon, but in most cases, there actually isnt a need for that.
  9. Old RP: RP-280F as fronts RP-450C as center RP-160m or RP-250s as surround PRO-160RPC as atmos Either 1x R-115SW or 2x R-112SW (because of room size with the assumption of your room height being 7 feet) really recommend you getting two subs though! New RP: RP-8000F as fronts RP-504C as center RP-600M or RP-502S as surrounds PRO-160RPC as atmos Either 1x SPL-150 or 2x SPL-120 (because of room size with the assumption of your room height being 7 feet) really recommend you getting two subs though!
  10. Initially, I would've said go for the r-34c since you have the r-820f as your fronts. Having the best matching LCR is very important. But then I read your other post in this thread saying you want to upgrade your entire system once more. Now, I'm thinking you should just wait and continue saving up the money until some great deals comes along. If your center right now is really unbearable, than just get the cheapest one you can for now.
  11. Sorry for taking such a long time to answer. By now you've probably bought your speaker, but I'm going to answer as I would if this was back in early October. The only difference between the 280f and 8000f is the new vented tweeter and some minor changes in cabin design. Now I could go on about how those two things will make sound different when comparing the 280f and the 8000f, but i won't. Reason why is that it doesn't matter. Best thing for you would be to try them both out and see which one you prefer. Might just be that you don't actually hear the difference, in which case I'd recommend the 280f because its cheaper. If you have bought your speakers already, I'd like to know which one you ended up going for
  12. Flott receiver det! Ja, du får holde øynene åpne for noen black friday og cyber monday tilbud. Men i tilfelle du ikke klarer å vente så kan du alltids kjøpe den denon receiveren med en gang. Så vidt jeg vet selges den bare hos hifiklubben i Norge og hvis de har samme kampanje som i fjor, så kan du få tilbake pris-differansen i penger på et produkt du kjøpte til full pris men som har blitt nedsatt i pris pga black friday...
  13. RP-8000F and RF-7III... difference is night and day
  14. True true, trolls will be trolls and the internet might not have gotten any better, but this forum has. Joined myself early january this year. I've been fairly active, and haven't come across one single post or comment that had any whiff of malintent. Maybe I've just been lucky....
  15. Randomly happened upon this thread and have to say, reading through these posts was like watching an episode of kuwtk hahaha. Safe to say this forum is better off nowadays than what it was back in the day. Did forum members back in 09 just not have manners?
  16. Well, what you have to realize is that the Klipsch R, RP, RF speakers are primarily HT speakers and not speakers meant for 2ch music listening. The best musical speakers from Klipsch would have to be one of the heritage ones. I do however know a fair few people that are quite happy with the RP and RF musicality, especially when the receiver is set to "pure direct". The RP line is definitely a step up from the R line. If you have the means, I'd return those 820s and get either the RP-8000F, or the cheaper but basically the same RP-280F.
  17. Don't have any experience with mixing different klipsch speaker lines... However, I searched the forum and found that someone else had posed this very question in the past. Most replies there say that it will be fine using a reference speaker as surrounds whilst having rp speakers as your LCR. Link to that thread down below.
  18. Hi! Welcome to the forum Yes, your denon will work fine with your klipsch speakers, so no need to worry there. Its one of the most popular HT brand matchups in my opinion. If you're worried about the power specs, dont be. Power specs on receivers are bogus anyway, and "RMS" basically means "on average". The speaker might be rated to 50W RMS, but it does fluctuate up and down. In short, speakers are quite durable and won't get blown by any receiver on the market. The Onkyo TX-NR686 is a great "bang for buck" avr. I myself have owned and loved it. When playing music, be sure to enable "pure direct" and you'll be golden. Should you transfer to the onkyo, do buy from a place that offers 100% money back guarantee. Onkyo are too known for their shabby hdmi ports and I wouldn't want you to waste your money. This stuff, as you probably know, can get expensive in the long run. If this is a decent setup or not can be discussed. I think you have partial components for a decent setup but as it stands now, it doesn't really make sense. To be blunt with you, your current system as you've set it up is kinda weird for the lack of a better term. When building a HT setup, you have your "ear-level" speakers and your "overhead-speakers"(atmos). Ear-level speakers are your left and right fronts, your center, your left and right side surrounds, and your left and right back surrounds. Further on you can add what is known as front wides but thats not important right now. You can of course pick and choose which of these different speakers you want to add into your system. Not all of these are necessary. However, I must say, some of these are mandatory if you want a full fletched HT setup. Smallest setup you can have in an HT setup is a 3.0.0. The "3" is the number of ear-level speakers, the middle "0" is the number of subs you have. Subs aren't mandatory but HIGHLY recommended. The last "0" is how many overhead(atmos) speakers you have. When we have a 3.0.0 setup, we are talking about the left front, the center and the right front. These, as i've said, are obligatory. One step up from the 3.0 setup, would be the 5.0.0 setup. This is basically the 3.0 setup with the addition of the left and right surrounds. Now, one step up from here, many will say would be the 5.1.2. Its common that once you've acquired the 5 basic speakers that constitutes a surrounds setup, you then start to go for overhead(atmos) speakers. Further on from here, you have your 7.2.4. Here we add two back surrounds, another sub and two more overhead(atmos) speakers. I realize this might me a little tricky to get, and thats why i'm adding a list of what speakers you might want to acquire in order: center fronts left and right first sub* surrounds left and right Overhead(atmos) speakers left and right Surround backs left and right second sub* two more overhead(atmos) speakers *Note that you can have multiple subs in your system at once, the limit is by no means 2 subs. **Also note that upgrading your receiver as you go is important should you want to incorporate all these speakers in your system. *** In addition to all this, there isn't a set thing that if you have 5 ear-level speakers, you have to only have one sub and two overhead, in other worlds a 5.1.2 setup. Setups configuration like 3.1, 5.1.2, 7.2.4 are just the most common ones you'll see. You can by all means go for 5.4.2, 7.1.4, 3.2 and so on. Just remember that as stated further up, some of the speakers are necessary to start with in the beginning. Now then! What I would do if I were in your current situation: Upgrade your setup to a 5.1.2 Good on you that you already have a center, sub and avr. Following this up, I'd get the fronts. Either get the RP-8000F or the RP-6000F to match your center. This will depend on your room size. Might even be that you should go as far down as getting the RP-600M bookshelf speaker. Since you have the RP-504C, Im guessing you've got the space for either of the two floorstanders I first mentioned. Then, I'd get the surrounds. Either the RP-502S or the RP-600M. If you search these two up, you'll see they have different looks. The one being conventional and the other bipole. (or dipole... cant really remember). In the end, I'd take your current in ceilings you have as your rears and mount them in your ceiling as overhead speakers. Just so you know, a 5.1.2 setup is the maximum amount of speakers your avr can handle. If you want more speakers, you'll have to upgrade. Now that you hopefully have a clearer idea of how you want to move forwards with your setup, there are still more to talk about. A few from the top of my head would be what kind of cables to get, if your speakers need spikes, if your side surrounds are to be mounted or placed on stands, where and how to position your speakers, where you position your seating area in correlation to your speakers, if you need sound treatment for your room or not, how you setup your avr and sub, bass management and sooooooo ooooooon.... As you see, there is a lot to think about, but also a lot that isn't necessary. It all depends on how invested you are and how much enjoyment you expect to have off of your system. If you want to get the maximum out of your system, I suggest you educate yourself as to what i've just spent the last 15 minutes writing. Good luck to you! and if you have more questions, just ask. I can promise you'll always get good and informative answers here, but if I answer, I cant always promise the answer will be short and sweet.
  19. Would throw away the cubes and replace them with your current fronts. Then go shopping for a new pair of fronts. To match your center, I'd go for the rp160m
  20. I will keep your RP-280F in my prayers and pray this doesn't happen to my own pair.
  21. The most matching center would be the rp600c because both the 600c and 600m have the same size of woofers. But the 500c wouldn't be in any way inferior or lack in performance in comparison to the 600m. I would agree with @dtr20 and say that if you have the space for the 600c, then go for that one.
  22. Hei Eivind. Tenker vi tar denne på norsk jeg. Jeg har samme setup som du tenker å skaffe der. Personlig er jeg ganske fornøyd. Har mine høyttalere koblet til en marantz sr5013, men før det prøvde jeg ut onkyo txnr686 i en liten periode. Lydkvaliteten følte jeg var bedre hos onkyo, men med marantzen skjønte jeg at var av bedre kvalitet og rett og slett lettere å bruke. Den onkyoen du nevner der vil fungere med systemet ditt, men det skal være sagt at onkyo har et dårlig rykte når det kommer til ustabile hdmi porter. Uansett er det jo hele opp til deg. Lyd er såklart subjektivt. Før du eventuelt kjøper noe brukt på finn, synes jeg du burde teste litt ut andre merker hos f.eks hifiklubben eller oslohificenter og kanskje finne litt ut av hva du selv foretrekker. Enhver receiver vil få samme høyttaler til å høres annerledes ut.
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