Trooper

A great way to make a fan quiet is to buy a 24v DC fan and run it at 12v DC or so (or a 12v fan @ 8v, you get the idea). Yes, it does slow the fan some but you don't really need to move much air to improve convection cooling. Get a DC "wall wart" power supply from Radio Shack (or a spare you have laying around) to power the fan. Easy to do and super quiet. Way quieter than any 120v fan I've ever heard. I cooled a Stereo 70 and 2 Dyna Mk. 3's this way.

Frankly, even the Synergy Sub10 is better than the 5802. And I'm not basing that on just reading the specs or audiophilic bias but I have heard the 5802 and all the Synergy and Reference subs in the same room and can tell you without a doubt all of the stand-alone powered subs are better. If you must go with the in-wall you will definitely want 2 of them.

Don't know if this has been posted yet. Klipsch helped the local TV station investigating local "white van" speaker company.

All things being equal (which comparing two amps from the same manufacturer is as close as you can get) the non-bridged solution will always be superior. The bridged amp will have higher distortion and lower damping factor.

If you're hearing "muddy one note rumble" from an RSW it's because of room acoustics and/or placement not the sub itself. The RT-12 is very similar in sound and if you place it where the RSW is it will probably sound the same. (I've heard and had them both.) But on the RT you can run the room calibration and that may tame some of the room acoustic problems and improve the sound. It helped in my room. A cheaper alternative would be to move your RSW around and see if you can find a location that lets it sound better to you. But if you're stuck with that location for the sub or you just want an "upgrade" the RT is very nice.

I believe they intend for you to use an IR repeater/extender system (such as Xantech, Niles, etc.). This feature was primarily targeted to custom installers so they could set up macros for "TV", "Movie", "Music" and set the sub differently for the different modes.

Maybe the Palladium will see the light of day unlike the previous 3 versions that were called "Reference Premiere". The first 2 versions looked alot like the Palladium. The first had two 10" woofers and a horn tweeter in essentially the same cabinet the Pall. is shown in. The next version added the horn loaded midrange - still in a similar cabinet. The 3rd iteration changed cabinets dramatically and was presented in piano gloss black. It may or may not have had the 3rd woofer - can't remember or find the pics off-hand. All three of those were developed and shown at either CEDIA, CES or IFA shows and then disappeared. Uh, oh. I just realized CEDIA is in a couple of weeks. Cross your fingers if you want the Palladium to survive the show and actually get produced.

Actually a parametric EQ would be better for subwoofer use. It allows you to vary the frequency and Q (width) as well as cut/boost. A fixed graphic EQ only lets you cut or boost. 3-5 bands of parametric EQ should do the job.

I've never noticed that number of posts has ever been directly related to knowledge on a subject. I stated that my prefernce was just that, my preference. If I stated a fact, like all auto room-EQ's are not created equal, or that an RT isn't required to be placed in a corner, then it's a fact. Not trying to be difficult but also don't want to be dismissed on a subject I might know a little someting about.

Don't know who said they do, or may, bottom out but it is uncommon. Klipsch designs the drivers so it's unlikely; then the distortion limiters in the amp will keep it from happening. The RT subs don't have to be put in a corner but any sub's output will be greater if you do. Not sure why some people assume the RT are like Klipschorns that must be placed in a corner (and I'm not implying that you think that necessarily but some people do). The shape was just a cool and different design asthetic. Not every manufacturer's room EQ is created equal. In fact some aren't good at all, some are good but can be tricked and some are very good. The Velo is not the most accurate on the planet. In the next year several more brands will be offering room EQ based on a platform from a third party. I've played with it too and it's not the best. If you think your's is EQ'd flat, check it with a real piece of test equipment and you may well find it is not that flat. Everyone has different tastes and requirements and having listened to the two systems side by side I will still take the RT. In fact, in my theater I use an RT stacked on an RSW-15. The RSW gets it's signal from the low-level output of the RT and the room correction was run for both subs.

I've spent a lot of time listening to the KW120 and RT-12d subs in the same room. I'll take the RT-12d any day. The biggest difference? Port noise. The RT-12d has none (cause there's no port) and the KW120's have plenty of port noise at high spl. The KW120's don't go any lower than the RT. They might be louder but if much of that output is port noise who wants it? Anyone that heard the comparison I heard would pick the RT-12d. In fact a KW120 owner who thought they were invincable was sorry to find the RT was superior but had to admit it. I bet he's made the switch by now, I'll have to check with him. The Klipsch room correction is superior to that of the Velodyne as well. Klipsch should have taken the opportunity to demo them side-by-side at the pilgrimage. I've seen it and you can easily tell the mistake Velodyne is making once you see them run side-by-side (you have to have the Klipsch PC software to see and compare the graphs of in-room response).

Call Klipsch tech support. They have all the codes and should be able to help.

Yea, I hope that's just a reflection on the sides cause they do look kind of cherry which would be very wrong ... but "rare".

Is that a black top and cherry sides I see? Or just relections of the floor on the sides of the sub?

Michael, Sounds like your projector only has S-video (you referred to it as DIN I think) and 15-pin VGA connectors. Composite and S-video won't support HD or even 480p. So if you're limited to the VGA input on the projector you'll have to find an HD tuner with a VGA output. I know the 1st generation RCA tuner (DTC100) had this but don't know if any others do. The Samsung you are looking at doesn't appear to have it. Also, I think CBS is broadcasting the game. They broadcast in 1080i so whichever tuner you get will need to be able to convert to 720p for your projector. Your CBS affiliate is channel 8 - they are the only local station broadcasting their HD signal on VHF (the rest are UHF) so plan your antenna accordingly.

Sorry your simple question got hi-jacked Paul. Sometimes we forum members feel the need to spout everything we know, relative or not. Yes the RW-8 is discontinued. The RPW-10 essentially replaced it and yes, it is a good sub (that statement will certainly open another discussion with endless naming of subs that may or may not be better but all will most certainly cost more than your $239).

No, Klipsch home theater subs are not shielded. But the only time I've seen it cause a problem with a CRT based TV was an RT series sub (which has a much larger magnet than an RW) placed next to the base of a CRT rear projecttion TV. That put the sub right next to the CRTs.

Just a couple of comments... These systems aren't intended to be for the members of this forum and other audio enthusiasts. They're intended for our neighbors, parents and friends who don't understand all the wires, speakers, formats, etc. that's typically associated with home theater. You know, the people that think you're crazy for having 7 large speakers in your family room. My parents would love one of these CS systems. Also, nothing is going to get out Klipsch's door that doesn't sound a whole lot better than the similar Bose product. Klipsch wouldn't risk their reputation and Best Buy wouldn't want it on their shelves (believe it or not shelf space is limited and expensive and a product doesn't get on unless there's a reason it will sell). The really cool aspect is the wireless, especially on the RoomGroove. For all of us iPod and MP3 owners and lovers now you can dock your iPod in one room and listen to it (and control it) from any room of the house. That's exactly the product my wife wants and if it sounds as good as the iGroove (which I'm sure it does) I'll enjoy it to.

Back to the original question: I have heard the THX subs and the RT-12d in the same room, same day, same equipment. I would take the single RT-12d over a single or even dual THX system. The primary reason is port noise from the THX subs. While many people might initially mistake it as additional output from the sub it is not (well, not in a good way). Listening to the 2 systems side-by-side it is obvious. I listened with a co-worker who is a HUGE fan of the THX subs and didn't want anything to beat them but he had to admit the RT-12d is a better sub. While the Velodyne DD subs are fine subs they have managed to skate by the critics with a not very good room correction system (the same one is offered in the stand-alone SMS). If anyone would compare the measurement Velodyne takes (and displays on the TV) with a real in-room measurment taken with LMS, Audio Precision, or similar they would see that measurement is wrong thus ensuring that the correction will be wrong as well. I think the RT subs get it right.

That's a real RW-8, an "RW-8" made from a scaled photo of an RW-10 and a silver RW-8. I think only the RW-10 was ever made in silver for public consumption but others were prototyped. They were to go with the silver RVX-42 and 54.

You can adjust a lot with a remote on the new RWd, RSWd and RTd subs; volume, crossover, phase, etc. But the primary purpose was to select "presets". You can go in the menu and set all the settings for movies and save it uder the "Movie" preset, same for Music and Night presets. Then with the remote you can easily recall any of those presets. This allows you, for instance, to include the "Movie" IR code in a macro on your remote when you select "play dvd". Call tech support as they have the IR codes that can be programmed into Prontos, Theater Masters and othe programmable remotes.

Rats, Andy W beat me to it! But to go one further check out the owner's manual. Under "Line Power Consumption" it lists "2700W peak" and "600W average, at maximum continuous output". But this is power supply consumption not power delivered to the driver. So apply Andy's 90% efficiency rating (which is optimistic for any amp) and really this thing is about 540W continuous. Bob Carver doesn't defy the laws of physics but his marketing department sure does.

The short answer is to set them where they sound best to you. But to help you get started: Set the Lowpass to LFE, which disables the internal lowpass, and set your lowpass or crossover frequency to 100Hz (or so) on your surround receiver. I would set the EQ mode to Flat but you may prefer Movie or Music mode, it's up to you. Set the Volume somewhere between 0 and +10 then use the Sub level on your receiver to adjust for best level relative to your other speakers (or you can set the receiver to 0 and adjust the volume at the sub). Phase is the hardest to set properly (and even if you get it "wrong" it likely won't really matter). Basically sit in the listening or viewing location then have someone change the phase setting while playing music. If there's a setting that seems to have more bass that's the setting to leave it.

And you don't have to put it in a corner. A wall will work just fine.

If I remember correctly, and the picture seems to prove it, that amp has a tube front end and MOSFET outputs (that's what's on the tunnel heatsink with fan in the middle ofthe chassis). So it's not your typical tube amp when it come to output current.