MechEngVic

It would be nice to see pics to get an idea what you're working with. As many and as detailed as you can.

If you have a pop at a specific interval after rest, it may be a capacitor problem. Something is faulty or miswired. Can also be a cold solder, the solder didn't bond properly and makes contact or disconnects making the pop sound. Does the speaker sound different before the pop? Or after the pop?

Film & foil !!!!!

Ahhh, next you need a Vantablack wrap!

I liked the wood grain wrap on the horn lenses.

I'd start with taming the Cornwall's mid horn a bit. If the crossovers are original, they need a rebuild anyway. Replace all the capacitors with higher quality film & foil and-or PIO's. Then add a resistor shunt at the final lead before the mid driver. Maybe 10 ohms inline and 5 ohms for the shunt (as an example, others here could give you better values). Buy several values (10+ watt) and use what sounds best while maintaining proper impedance (this needs to be calculated). I'm sure this has been done to Cornwall i's by others here. The right info is out there, including the crossover diagram. Hopefully others with chime in.

The best is when you've got your eyes closed and you're hearing instruments on the left and instruments on the right and then, bam! There's a vocal coming right from in between like there was a middle speaker!

You'll hear more difference in TYPE of capacitor than in BRAND. IMHO. FIlm & foils and PIO's are the best. For a metalized film cap to be good you have to spend $ and be lucky. The high end metalized film ClarityCap's are a good deal and I have heard a "smoothing" effect with them. I like them. Mundorf F&F's are a great cap at a good price. Russian PIO's are the best bang for the buck in capacitors. Even with shipping from overseas. Don't use all one brand/type, mix it up.

The best way to compare would be to run frequency sweeps with a measuring mic and REW. If the old caps are worn out you'll see a difference in the graphs. If you can hear a difference will depend on the quality of your ears. I'm 50 and my ears aren't what they used to be. The MAHL's will make more difference than any crossover mod.

GOOD!!! More tubes for the rest of us! 🤓

Toe your mains in 45 degrees but experiment with placement (closer or further from corner, closer to back wall or into room more, etc.). Then you can decrease angle if needed (usually, the further from side walls, the lesser the angle). Basically you want the speakers pointing at your head. Don't use the sub until you dial in the mains. Sub position can make or break overall sound. Move it around, start sub at highest frequency then turn down as needed. Try polarity both ways in every new position. Turn volume of sub up so it becomes very noticeable then turn it down a couple of notches. As long as your wires are connected correctly, don't worry about them, or your bi-wire connectors, for now. Put an area rug in front of your mains.

The RF-7 series is a world class two way speaker. The heritage line is just that, heritage. Any new design would not be a heritage until many years later IMO.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333283622325 https://www.partsconnexion.com/cgi-bin/sc/productsearch.cgi?storeid=*20b7b4534d0a875b77f1157d6bb78322a865&search_field=mills https://www.percyaudio.com/ The reason I suggest the use of resistor changes instead of changes to inductor or capacitor values is because you're not changing the Klipsch architecture (the shape of the frequency response curve), just turning down the volume a bit. And a resistor change will have less of an effect on the driver's impedance curve than even small inductor and capacitor changes can have. Trust me, you don't want to mess with that sweet signature Klipsch midrange sound. About the most I would try is doubling the resistance value, but no less than about 10 ohm increase. The Mundorfs on eBay are cheap enough to buy several values and a good quality resistor. You can cut the old resistor out but leave the leads sticking up out of the board and alligator clip different values in until you find what you like. Then if you want the best quality, buy a Mills of your favorite value to put in (within a few ohms is ok). For fun, check Parts Connexion for the crazy boutique resistors.

I'd replace the 22ohm resistor in the midrange circuit with a Mills MRA-12 or Mundorf MR-10 33-35 ohm resistor.

Tubes vs SS is an argument that will get you thrown out of any bar! All I can say is this: For over 15 years I ran most of a dozen SS amps and receivers. Then I listened to a tube amp for about half a second and decided I would never go back. Been running tubes and horns for over 25 years now.

Klipsch is quickly becoming a very big audio company. There will inevitably be "growing pains". Let's hope they handle them with the same level of care they always have.

I've had good luck with unbalanced RCA's, but then again, I've always had simple systems (2 speakers, amp, pre, source).

By "junk" you mean: Schitt? RCA's?

SET vs Push-Pull?

I always thought I would eventually hunt down another pair of Chorus II's, but I've grown to like the tall, thin, smaller footprint of dual woofer KLF's. Plus, even though many of us horn enthusiasts want them to produce as much of the lower frequencies as possible, I'm finding that a good pair of dual woofer speakers can do a real good job well into the 1200-2500Hz range.

I'd say that's a resounding endorsement for the quality of a speaker many times older than the latest Klipsch offerings. I love the KLF series! I owned and sold Chorus II's and thought nothing would come close, but having bought and modified a set of KLF-10's, I'd say now that the only thing the Chorus does noticeably better is loudness. No doubt that amp does its share.

The crossover's three middle connectors are for the tweeter and the squawker, and the two woofers share the woofer connection. The right-most connector is for the tweeter and squawker INPUT (HF input), and the right-most connection is for the woofers INPUT (LF input).

A poorly made fuse could conceivably cause AC irregularities, but any decent fuse should do the job. Buying boutique fuses is for those with too much disposable income.

I used to have a torchiere style floor lamp who's cord ran along with my speaker wires, and every time I turned it on to a middle brightness setting, I heard buzzing through my speakers. In that small apartment, I didn't have much placement choice. I read way back then that the complexity of your wire's windings helps with shielding, so I ended up braiding my own cables and put ferrite rings on the ends of them and it helped a lot. That's why the video resonated with me. This video's experiment got me thinking about the wires that come with a receiver for the FM antenna, it's basically zip cord. So if there isn't much difference in simple vs. expensive cables, then it behooves us to find where we can achieve gains for not outrageous prices.

If you read my comments you'll find I am no proponent of spending thousands, nor one of using simple zip cord. As an engineer, you would see that the experiment in the video illustrates a valid point, and you'd ignore the host's hyperbole in using it as a "method" to evaluate speaker cables. A simple argument in favor of using better than zip cord is made by the video, as is the "snake oil price of admission" all the argument one needs to side against the other extreme. My whole point was that simple zip cord and expensive cables are the extremes of an issue who's answer lies somewhere in the middle. Your point seems to be to insult and argue.