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Everything posted by HDBRbuilder

  1. Facing the rear of the speaker, look at the rear edge of the side panel to your left, about an inch from the top...if you see the letter "A" there, I built them. Builders and sanders had a letter code assigned to them...mine was the letter "A"....the letter was stamped into the rear edge side panel where I told you to look. The sanders tended to slather wood filler along the rear edge before sanding it, so they sometimes either completely sanded off the builder(s) initials or they became hard to discern since they got filled with wood putty, then sanded down somewhat. After the sander was finished sanding the speaker, they stamped their own letter code into the same general area either above or below the builder code. Cornwalls cabinets were NORMALLY built by two workers, one on each side of the work table in those days...so I was the lead builder for them and I would have a helper with me, and his/her initial would be right beside my "A". When these were built, if I was NOT the builder, then it was because I had taken a day off or was on vacation.
  2. All I have to say is this: H/K 430, 630, 730 or 930 twin-powered stereo receivers from the early to mid-1970's. If you haven't tried them in good condition, you are missing out! The old so-called heritage models of Klipsch love them! I do too!
  3. Drive or fly out, rent a large u-haul box truck/moving van...load them up and drive them home. If you drive out, then tow your car behind the truck on the way home. You can also palletize them and have them shipped to you...I recommend using ABF freight for that. But either way...you will have to locally pick them up and have at least one person go with you because the MWM woofers are pretty heavy....even the split versions like these are.
  4. About a 99% probability that I built those.
  5. When idiot-sticks hunt on other people's privately-owned timberland, they have absolutely no respect for being allowed to do that...so all of mine is posted to keep them out. You would not believe how many careless hunters just shoot up the trees on the land of others! This drops the price received from sawmills for timber every time a bullet in the wood is hit by the saw! It really ticks me off, too! That is money lost on the entire sale just for ONE bullet!
  6. Also a PWK tongue-in-cheek true statement...JIM, did you ever ask him which skirmish it was during that battle?😉
  7. PWK used to say he had fought in he Battle of Southwest Proving Grounds during the war....which was tongue-in-cheek true!
  8. All the prototypes of the Jube bass bin were built using a table saw...and routers and such. My best friend Mike was on that R&D team as a "worker-bee"...and he had to either tear things apart for a re-build, or completely build another one each time they were tested and changes were made. TRUST ME, I've heard all about the development from him over the years! I'm pretty sure that somewhere there is evidence in CAD of each prototype built tho...to include its final version. This was in order to save wasting time working up any CNC programs until the final prototype passed muster, I'm sure! Now, as for a scaled--down K-horn...Bois'd'arc (Robert Wyatt) built one over 40 years ago...it was 1/2 scale meaning one-fourth in size...and in his own words..."sure was lots of work to end up with something that didn't even sound as good as a KG2! But at least I can say I built one someday!" It was eventually stolen from him! He had been keeping it under his K-horn work table and one day it was just gone! No telling where it ended up, either! We searched high and low...because that theft was not supposed to happen in our factory...meant we had some thieves around! Everybody I knew was pretty pissed about it, too!...including myself! He and I were very good friends!...still are!
  9. See this... and see this.... If you do the math...between the date on PWK's PREVIEW drawing of trhe "STYLE 7" and actual first use use of K-horn #175...then 175 is either the very first factory production of the Style 7....or very close to it, IMHO...once JRH steps in here...maybe he can narrow it down a bit more....but one to eight months is already a given...between the drawing and #175...which means it is pretty damned close if not the first factory "style 7" built, IMHO!
  10. : MDF replaced Lumber-core plywood for finely-veneered panels for the Klipsch speakers over 2 decades ago. This is lumber-core plywood...which is what the finely-veneered panels on the K-horn were made-of when his K-horns were built...and the lumber in that core was POPLAR: This flyer gives views of the three different K-horn styles of builds, B, C, and D-styles of builds:
  11. You are looking at two or more different cabinet builds, and thinking they are all the same...There was D-style, C-style, and yours which are B-style! All different specific buids and each priced differently....with B-style the most expensive of them all! B-style has a trap panel pon thope of the bass bin...then another one atop that but with a collar between the two...then the very top trap panel. C-style has one trap on the top pof the bass bin...NO CLLLAR AT ALL, and another trap above that one with sides connecting the two traps...one above the other...only the bottom trap is NOT removeable...the rest is! D-style is no trtaps at all...the bass bin front panel actually extends upwards to become the motor-board for the H/Fsection...no removeable wood above the bass bin body , itself! I'm leaving the rest of your questions for JRH to answer...over an hour of typing your answers already and that is enough FOR ME...good night! .
  12. Just google "poplar lumber-core plywood" pics...and you will know what you have...too easy, right?
  13. Deronda did the final assembly on those....meaning she was the one who installed all the components inside of them, then sealed the double=chjecked her work before installing the rear cabinet panel. Mr. Bradford tested them in the testing booth using frequency sweeps! which he compared with what they were supposed to be, using a saved record of the correct frequency response in those sweeps. Mr. Bradford also was listening for any air leaks from the cabinet when he did that!
  14. The Klipsch K77 tweeter was actually basiically just the Electrovoice T-35 tweeter, but the spec requirements for Klipsch use were more stringent than those of for the Electrovoice T35 itself. IOW, Klpisch wanted to get a slightly better version of the T-35 for its own use. For a very long time of its history, Klipsch out-sourced its tweeters, its mid-range compression drivers and its woofers...only using its own Klipsch mid-range horn lenses...the crossover networks were built by Klipsch, though. Part of the genius of PWK was that the cfompanmyh coouild use the same tweeter and mid-range compression driver in all of its offerings at the time, and the same woofer in everything but the Heresy, which used the smaller 12-inch woofer. This allowed for potentially lower per-unit costs for these items, through higher volume purchases of the same items because the Klipsch models shared the same electrical components in most cases. It is really a testament to a genius in the purchasing side of the business equation....even though PWK would never say that himself! PWK would often say, he wasn't much of a businessman, just a hobbyist tinkering around, designing and building speakers to sell so that he could afford to pursue his hobby full-time. The truth doesn't actually line-up with PWK's own purported opinion of himself, IMHO! For your statemement of this: "Initially with the LPs it seemed to me that I seemed to have abigger noise but then I realized that it is due to the greater sound pressure that makes the rustling sound emerge and therefore it is enough to recalibrate the volume knob." I assume you are referring to the apparent GAIN in background "hiss" sometimes found on records prior to, or between songs If that is the case, then you are actually experiencing an amplifier-induced signal gain, simply because the amp cannot find any sound to amplify...so it "tries to amplify harder"...which is common with high efficiency speakers being used, but more pronounced due to the horn-loading of the Klipsch speakers in the mid-to-high frequency ranges. But you should also have noticed that once the next soundtrack begins, that affect just disappears....until the song ends.
  15. THe initials won't just jump out at you...you actually have to look for them. facing the rear of the speaker cabinet, look at the rear edge of the side panel to your left...about one inch beloow the top of that panel. You should see two individual sets of two-letters one set above the other. IOne set may have filled wuith wood puty prior to ethe sanduing of the rear edges in the sanding room...then that set of letters may be filled with wood putty or be much fainter to make out due to its having been sanded. That set or single letter will be the builder code The other set will normally have no putty in it, and will normally be more prominent in its depth. since it was stamped-into the edge after the sander was finished. If you see the letter "A" at all, then I built them! I was the only builder who had ever had "A" for a code up through about the 4th quarter of 1983, when I left Klipsch. If you can take pics of the letters there, I can probably also tell you who the sander was for those speakers! I was the primary builder of the birch plywood Heresy speakers AND all of the Cornwalls from late 1976 thru the time I left the company...so it is very highly likely that you will find the letter "A" on your speakers. If you do not, then they were built on a day I took off from work or was on vacation, most likely. For birch plywood Heresys, I often built solo...which means I had no helper...so you very well may find just a single letter "A" in stead of a pair of letters for the builder code. When working solo, I could often build 100 or more Heresy's in a day solo, but normally averaged upwards of 80 to around 100. With a helper, the daily tally would be between 100 and up to 140+ Heresys a day. Which kinda should tell you that having a helper wasn't really having much help for the time it took to build birch Heresys. The primary builder was always doing most of the work, if not all of it, since the helper tended to fall behind, and the primary builder had to help him(or her) get caught-up! When the Cornwall worktable wasn't in use, many more Heresys COULD HAVE BEEN BUILT in a day with two solo workers both building...but my suggestion for that was pretty much ignored by the cabinet-shop foreman! It is what it...was!
  16. Tweeter is also Alnico from the pics. Builders just build the cabinets...final assembly installs the electricals. There is always a chance that tweeters and other drivers or woofers have been replaced over the years, also...some with parts from previous years than when the speaker was shipped.
  17. HMMMM...11/12/76....that is around the time...or just after the time, that I started build Cornwalls. So I MAY have built these...if they had 1977 serial numbers...I MOSTLY LIKELY would have been the builder, though! When these were built, I was building half of all the Cornwalls that went to the sanding room...by the time January 1977 came around I was building MOST of the Cornwalls except for a very few. I was hired in early July 1976...and assigned in the cabinet shop of the plant, but for my first four or so weeks was getting the new building ready to move into...the building was completed, but it took those few weeks to finish the steps necessary to spray down concrete sealer and then to actually spray the areas which had been readied, . WITH the sealer After that brsin-cell-murder experience, I was working in the cabinet shop, itself...by October I was already building completed cabinets...first Heresys, then Cornwalls were added to my rapidly growing list of things which I was assigned to do.
  18. In 1980, I was the primary builder of all the Cornwall cabinets...unless I was on vacation or took a day off, I was likely the lead builder of these, along with having a helper. Your tweeters should be the K77M (NOT alnico magnet!)!)...your mid-range compression driver should be the K55V (IS alnico magnet)) and your woofers should be K33 (NOT alnico magnets) The crossover network should be a "B" network. If I remember correctly we were still using the K55V mid-range driver for all of 1980 builds. The "not alnico" magnets (your tweeter and woofer magnets) would have been made from a ferrous mud slurry, compressed and baked to become a square ferrite magnet. Early on we had a few quality control issues with these ferrous-magneted drivers...but that was quickly turned around! So your drivers should be good to go. Whomever replaced the voice-coil dust cover did a really ugly job of it, and it appears it was not even the correct dustcover for that particular woofer. Having really "white-appearance" on those woofer cones MOST LIKELY means that those cones were heavily exposed to direct sunlight for a number of years....meaning they spent lots of time with their grille-cloth panels removed. From what I can tell, the cabinets look pretty good for their age, though! They are CB-R models, I guess, unless the birch plywood was stained walnut at the factory.
  19. Not really...I prefer bare wire connections, myself...just remove them, clean them up good and get any crud off of them and clean up the machine screw threads and threaded inserts... on them! Replace the connectors, Hook up all the wires, tighten all the screws snugly, and it's rock'n'roll time! I don'lt get hung up on all the cable and terminal yakkety-yak very much, mostly because I know that each and every additional connection (can you say SPLICE???) causes more loss of signal energy getting from point A to point B, due to resistance created from "splicing". It is what it is! Each additional transition along the line also acts as a splice, resistance-wise! Any electrician can tell ya that! GOLD-PLATED fancy connectors at wired ends or not! The addition of them equals at least one additional "splice" in the line! Since they are so old, I would suggest cleaning up all the wired connections everywhere...at crossovers, and also at drivers if not soldered! Get rid of all of that electrical resistance that has accumulated over the years! It DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE! Check your network can-style capacitors for leakage before firing them up! If any are leaking they all need to be replaced first FOR SURE!
  20. Sorry, Wrong on both accounts. The finely-veneered panels on YOURS are ACTUALLY poplar-lumber-core-plywood, finely-veneered on one side, and birch veneered on the other...which was also delivered with fine-veneer edge-banding already attached where edges are visible from the front of the speakers when properly installed into room corners.so are the top-hat side panels and the bass bin front panel. The bottom panel of the bass bin will be approximately 1/2" thick Baltic Birch plywood, because it was assembled separately as a bass bin "wing assembly", originally! IIRC, Your K-horns will also ONLY have three SOLID wood pieces in each bass bin! One will be the "splitter" which is mounted to the inside of the front panel of the bass bin, opposite from the compression slot of the woofer motor-board...the other two will be reinforcing blocks for POSITIVE-LONG-TERM-construction assembly for the upper and lower "wing assemblies" which make up portions of the two rearward-bends of the bifurcated Bass horn lens....you can see all of these three solid wood pieces if you open the woofer access door...and look upwards , then downwards to find the pair of reinforcement blocks...then remove the woofer and look thru the compression slot of its motor-board and you will see the "splitter" in front of it...mounted to the bass bin front panel's back side. . Trust me, they will al be there, as mentioned, I outta know! I fabricated all of them during that time era method of K-horn production! Other than those three items, everything else "wooden" in your K-horns is either poplar-lumber-core plywood, Baltic birch plywood, OR cabinet-grade custom-ordered 3/4 inch birch plywood. Anything else is one of two types oi glue, or a mixture of the metal stuff: screws, finishing-nails, staples, and T-nuts. EDIT: Sorry, I forgot!....I left out two more solid wood pine or fir pieces of 2/4 lumber per K-horn...they are at each end of the top-hat H/F motor-board...just look into the rear of the top-hat and you can see them...one on your left, the other to your right...with grill cloth wrapped around them and then stapled to them.
  21. OR, just wipe off the dust so that you can find the one marked in RED for POSITIVE...which APPEARS to be the right one!
  22. Well...I kinda figure that I had it...but I had absolutely no idea what it was at the time because not enough info was available about the symptoms specific to having it! Such is the way of life! I still can't taste what I eat worth a damn! And my olfactory senses are still a bit screwed up....but my lungs seem to be OK...except for all the cigarettes I have been smoking (about twice as many as NORMAL for me!) while sittin' on my arse hiding from something I probably am already immune to! The GOOD thing is that the Doc I saw there in the Philippines for TWO things, one a staff infection in my leg and the other the pneumonia symptoms...prescribed the Z-pack for the pneumonia symptoms...which probably saved my life! Here is my risk category info, in case any of you wanna know: 67 year old smoker, on DEFINITELY-needed CPAP machine at night...taking two blood pressure meds, along with Metformin for pre-diabetes issues...and additionally taking a baby aspirin for a blood thinner to keep my heart working, and I guess my taking Potassium citrate (Urocit-K) to help rid my body of excessive uric acid (for uric-acid-kidney-stone preventative and gout preventative) might figure into the equation...so I kinda THINK that my "risk category" is pretty damned high...LOL! BTW the "pneumonia" I had was the worst case I ever had...gelatinous crap, too! I took the pneumonia vaccine a few years back and it didn't help me much (if any!) this time around! I was clearing up pretty good before I left to return stateside, though, and hadn't been feverish in a half a month at the time...I took the last of the Z-pac a few days before I returned! But even after I got home...it was over two months before my lungs seemed to be "normal" again (for a 2+ pack a day cigarette smoker!). The crazy thing about this FOR ME, is the guilt trip I have had about most likely exposing my wife and every member of her extended family to the virus...because we were ALL THERE together every damned day...the entire clan! Her youngest brother was having his church wedding, so EVERYBODY WAS AROUND ME...for between 5 and 30 days! (depending on how many days they could stay there!), when I was the sickest they were ALL: being exposed! But...so far...none of them have been sick from that it seems! NONE OF THEM!! And they SHOULD HAVE BEEN, in my mind, anyway!! Thank God for THAT!
  23. Since I am just too lazy to read every damned post in this super-long thread, where I MIGHT just find this answer, my Question IS: Has anybody on the forum actually HAD the COVID-19 virus, yet? Because I think I had it!...way back in December! And if what I had WAS IT, then my case almost killed my arse! I dunno about the rest of you, but, for myself, when I get to the point of praying "OK, Lord, either kill me or cure me, but I need some relief from this crap, one way or another!"...my arse is in a world of hurt! I will be getting the anti-body blood serum test next week! Then I will know for sure! EDIT: Just for a little context and to keep everybody from thinking I'm nutso...I was in the Philippines at the time (arrived there 13 Dec, departed on Jan 12!), and surrounded by hundreds of Chinese and Korean tourists every day there!...many of those tourists were wearing masks. too! A couple of days after I left some sick Chinese tourists went to the hospital there, and got tested for it, but returned to China before the test results came in...both positive! So...if you have doubts about my possible exposure...now you know!
  24. That means he installed the drivers, horns and networks...prior to them being tested and then boxed up for shipment.
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