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inMotionGraphics

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Everything posted by inMotionGraphics

  1. I'm afraid I don't have any experience with surround speakers being in-ceiling mounted, so wouldn't be the best person to advise you on this. However if you're going with a 5.1.x setup, and your couch is against the wall, then I'd rather add the surround speakers to the side of your listening positions or up to 10 degrees behind your listening position on the side walls. This is what Dolby recommends for 5.1.x setups. But if you already have your surrounds on the side walls, and were referring to adding rear surrounds for a 7.1.x setup, then I'm not sure which would sound better. If it were me, I'd probably stick to rear wall mounted, but use a bi-pole speaker type to disperse the sound a bit, but you'd need to try it to be sure. But you don't need anything in the rear for 5.1.x setup...
  2. Definitely aim for 5.1.2 or 5.1.4 if you can... and your room could even accommodate 7.1.4 in my opinion, but I'd probably only add additional surround channels if your bed channels are wall mounted, not ceiling mounted. I hope this helps...
  3. Ah damn, sorry, that went over my head... it's 3am here so I'm probably not firing on all cylinders at the moment... my bad. 😳
  4. That's awesome bro, and yes, I think your G/F might be on to something there... 🙂 Thanks for the additional photo... now it all makes perfect sense... I'm definitely a little jealous... 😉 Enjoy mate! Brendon
  5. @codewritinfool, what didn't you understand about my question? I think it was pretty clear, and the OP understood me...
  6. I can only imagine how EPIC that must sound! Is this only for music or do you have a home theater set up somewhere there as well?
  7. I would say anything under 1.5 meters would be too close (I'm about 1.7m from my closest side surround and 1.6m from my closest rear surround in my secondary seat/off center), however, I re-read your original post and see now that you're forced to mount your surrounds on the rear wall and that you'll be sitting right up against the rear wall. This obviously isn't ideal, but many people have made a setup like this work. I've heard experts recommend using bipole speakers for rear surrounds when you are up against the wall, and using absorption rather than diffusion for wall treatments on the rear wall. But if you are leaning towards monopole speakers on the rear wall, then I'd say go for it. They will anyway be the right speakers for rear surrounds if you change rooms and move your couch away from the rear wall. I also recommend familiarizing yourself with Dolby's recommendations here: https://www.dolby.com/us/en/speaker-setup-guides/index.html
  8. While Dolby does recommend using monopole speakers for your side and rear surrounds (they say it helps position the sounds more accurately in the 3 dimensional space), I'm using bipole speakers for my side surrounds and I personally don't think it interferes with Dolby Atmos. But it probably comes down to personal taste, and I don't have anything to compare it to. I think a lot of people are still using biopole speakers on the side surrounds from their previous 5 and 7.1 setups. I also think the bipole speakers are a better choice if the side surrounds will be quite close to you. But I do recommend that you use monopole speakers for your rear surrounds if possible.
  9. I believe the new tweeters are also vented now, which also helps them sound smoother... I've also only read and heard good things about the new tweeters.
  10. I agree with @wuzzzer and @jason str... I recommend you first do the subwoofer crawl to determine all the viable locations from an audio performance perspective: https://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-connection/crawling-for-bass-subwoofer-placement If one of your sweet spots happens to be right where that rack opening is, then great... otherwise scrap that idea and put it in the most practical of the sweet spots you found. You could also use a USB mic and the REW software to measure various locations, but the subwoofer crawl will be the cheapest and quickest route.
  11. Yeah, so "WEAK" that it pulled one of his surround speakers off the wall within the first few minutes... 🙂
  12. I'm very happy with my PRO-180RPC in-ceiling speakers: https://www.klipsch.com/products/pro-180rpc-in-ceiling-speaker I don't know if they make a line of in-ceiling speakers specifically for the heritage range, but according to Klipsch support, the PRO-180RPC were the best match for the Reference Premiere and RF7 ranges. The CDT-5800C are also a match for the RP and RF ranges, so if you specifically want tweeters that can be angled at the listening position, then go with these, but I personally don't think Atmos speakers need to be angled at the listening position, so I prefer the PRO-180RPC, which are also a much newer model.
  13. Yeah, Atmos is definitely for real! And I'm referring to the real Atmos layout with in-ceiling speakers, not the reflective Atmos modules (which I haven't tried, and I think have their limitations). For me, I think the Atmos upgrade has been the single biggest improvement to my home theater in a long time, and I only added two Atmos channels, not the recommended 4). Just yesterday my girlfriend and I were watching Mission: Impossible 6 - Fallout, and we were both smiling from ear to ear... we both agreed that Atmos really takes things to another level! In those helicopter scenes (of which there are a lot), you hear the helicopters above you. There are of course many other examples of overhead sounds effects and "atmospherics". For that I recommend you watch the Dolby Atmos demo disk on a good Atmos system. I'm confident you'll be sold on it right out the gate. Now there are a lot of movies that have disappointingly little content in the Atmos channels, and there's a lot of debate and complaining about this online, but it goes beyond just overhead sound effects and atmosphere... I firmly believe the Dolby Atmos upmixer is vastly better than any upmixer we've had before... from upmixing 5.1 and 7.1 discrete audio to upmixing 2 channel stereo, the surround and height channels are way more active than with the previous upmixers, and exponentially more enjoyable... at least on my system. Lastly, the Dolby Atmos upmixer also does an excellent job with stereo music if you like listening to multi channel music like I do... So no, there's no snake oil for sale here, that much I can guarantee you! Whether you'll enjoy it as much as I do and many others do, that will depend on your tastes and preferences I'm sure, but you are definitely going to notice the difference, and I'm confident it will be worth the investment for you. But again, if you aren't sure, go and listen to a demo and decide for yourself. The guys in Europe are doing it like this so that their systems are primarily configured for Auro-3D, which is a competing system to Dolby Atmos but hasn't received widespread adoption yet. They swear it is better than Dolby Atmos, but I haven't tried it, and there isn't any content available for it where I live. So if you're setting up primarily for Atmos and DTS-X then go with Dolby Atmos's layout recommendations (in-ceiling), but if you're going for Auro-3D, then go with their layout, as Dolby Atmos will work fine with the height speakers in an Auro-3D layout.
  14. I really like the Yamaha products, and have been incredibly happy with my RX-A2070 AVR over the past few years... love the looks and performance. As for the Aventage CX-A5200, I can only dream of owning one of these bad boys one day, but I can tell you that Gene from Audioholics bench tested the pre-pro and amp, and was very impressed with the build quality and performance: https://www.audioholics.com/av-preamp-processor-reviews/cx-a5200-mx-a5200 I think he also likes the Anthem, and owns one if I'm not mistaken: https://www.audioholics.com/av-preamp-processor-reviews/anthem-avm-60-network-preamp-processor-review And here's the CX-A5100 in case you are interested: https://www.audioholics.com/av-preamp-processor-reviews/yamaha-aventage-cx-a5100-preamp-processor-preview Let us know what you decide in the end and how it performs...
  15. Glad you managed to find a solution. Does it sound great?
  16. I see no reason not to include both side surrounds and rear surrounds in your setup, especially since 90% of your listening will be from the front row. I'm only about 1.2m from my rear wall, and my rear surrounds work great and i'm glad I have them. I have them a bit higher on the wall than the Dolby recommendations, but they work work well (and they're not pointed down to the listening position). As for exact placement, I would suggest you follow Dolby's 7.2 layout recommendations as closely as is practical in your particular room setup, and don't be afraid to go a bit higher than the "just above ear level" that dolby recommends, but don't go too high in case you want to add Dolby Atmos in-ceiling speakers later. 7.1 Speaker Placement: https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/surround-sound-speaker-setup/7-1-setup.html Setup Guides for Your Home: https://www.dolby.com/us/en/speaker-setup-guides/index.html 7.1.2 Overhead Speaker Placement: https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/speaker-setup-guides/7.1.2-overhead-speaker-setup-guide.html I hope this helps... Brendon
  17. That was enjoyable to watch... not sure if it was the mic though, but the subs sounded a bit rough on my system... I'm sure it is impressive in real life though... 🙂
  18. Well I'm not sure if this helps you at all, but I've had the Reference line (R-28F, R-25C, R-14S, R-14M and R-12SW) for 3 years now, and they've provided me tons of joy over the years. I can't really fault them in any way, although I probably don't have a true audiophiles listening ear. They provide more than enough power and dynamics (music on -20DB and movies on -18DB is about as loud as I can handle in my room (4.7 x 4.8 x 10.2 meters), although I have pushed the system to 0DB with base heavy electronic music in a test - no distortion whatsoever... not sure if the DB volume scale is anything you can work with, but that's with my Yamaha 2070 AVR. Point is the system has way more power than I ever use and I've never heard any component in it distort, and I think it sounds great! Having said that though, we always want to keep improving - it's a disease... 🙂 So when I added in-ceiling Atmos speakers, I went for Klipsch's top of the range PRO-180RPC IN-CEILING Speakers in preparation for upgrading the rest of my system when I can afford it. I haven't heard the new RP series yet, but I've only read and heard good things about it: https://www.audioholics.com/tower-speaker-reviews/klipsch-rp-8000f, so my next investment will likely be a second sub (15inch) or replacing my center speaker with the RP-504C. I'm not sure I will ever be able to afford a full RP range, but that's my long term goal... So my "unqualified" advise to you would be, if you can afford the RP range, then go straight to that one. It will be cheaper in the long run than upgrading from the Reference to the RP to the RF series, and I'm sure you won't be disappointed with the RP sound quality and performance. Update: I just re-read your post and I see you're in the same boat as me as far as being able to afford the RP series straight out the gate... mmmh, tough one... if you're patient and can handle the slow build route, then just invest in the RP range from the start as and when you can afford it. You'll waste less money that way. Not sure if this helps, but that's my experience to date...
  19. I can attest this, as this is the exact setup I upgraded to so that I could move the center speaker out of my cabinet. This is the wall bracket I'm using, and it is brilliant! I can't be happier... it is rock solid and bomb proof, despite holding my TV half a meter away from the wall: Brateck LPA35-462 Aluminum Slim Sliding Full-Motion Wall Mount Bracket: https://www.amazon.com.au/Brateck-BT-LPA35-462-Aluminum-Sliding-Full-Motion/dp/B077PQXPSX Just check with Brateck if it can accommodate your TV as it says up to 70", but not sure if it's restricted to 70" due to weight or physical size. Otherwise you'll need to find a similar one that can handle a larger size TV. The result is a center speaker sitting on top of the TV stand, positioned right up to the front edge (so no cabinet interference) and the TV hovering directly above the center speaker... it doesn't get better than this I think...
  20. I haven't heard either models myself, but I've only heard great things about the 8000's, so I think you should be delighted with the upgrade. One of the main new improvements to the 8000's is that they've now vented the Tractrix horn-loaded tweeter and made it out of a softer silicone material, which has allowed for smoother highs. I've heard people say this has made a massive positive improvement. Here's an excellent review by Audioholics of the 8000's to put your mind at ease: https://www.audioholics.com/tower-speaker-reviews/klipsch-rp-8000f
  21. Coming along nicely... Not sure about the appliques to be honest. I prefer a cleaner, more modern look, but don't let that deter you... 🙂
  22. @maniekok3 Wow, the BEST of the BEST! I can only imagine what this must sound like... nicely done mate!
  23. Thank you all for your valuable input and assistance with this... I greatly appreciate your time and efforts. Yes, I managed to find this product: https://meniscusaudio.com/product/wool/, but would mean I need to import it myself. Which I'm happy to do if this is the best product to use for my application described in my original post. But I want to be sure this is the best product to use before I go to that length and expense. I might be able to order from Parts Express if they deliver to South Africa, but I wonder how we would know if it's suitable for my cabinets... I'm not a speaker designer and didn't follow a very scientific process with these boxes... I just tried to make the boxes as big as possible since these speakers are designed for an infinite baffle as per Klipsch support... 🙂 Yes, I've been reading a lot of this too... but I think fiberglass and Melamine foam that are suitable for this application are beyond my reach here in SA. Or I just don't know enough about these products. I don't really need anything below 100Hz as my Atmos speakers are crossed over at 80Hz anyway. We don't have this in South Africa unfortunately, but I'd be curious to hear how it works once you're done. @moray james This is very interesting... I think I would have done something similar instinctively, but it is good that you drew my attention to this and gave me some very specific guidelines to work with. I assume the vent you are referring to is the port on a vertical standing floor standing speaker? I don't have any ports or vents in my design and the box is effectively lying on its front baffle orientation wise when comparing to a floor stander (see diagram in original post), as these speakers are on my ceiling. If you could describe the stuffing layout based on my speaker box orientation so that I don't get it wrong, I would greatly appreciate this. This is a sealed box btw. Thank you all. Brendon
  24. I might be misreading the situation, but if you've added expansion gaps (with the paper spacers which I assume are temporary and will be removed), wouldn't this mean that each support brackets and the screw holding it in place is bearing the weight of its shelf? As apposed to the weight being transferred to the below supports and eventually to the base? And if this were the case, then perhaps an alternative way of catering for expansion without adding gaps would be to give the support screw on each support block a bit of vertical wiggle room (by drilling a vertically elongated hole) so that all the supports are still resting on the support below them, but can move up if expansion is required. I apologize if I've missed the mark entirely, but this what I was able to gleam from your description and photos... On a different topic, do you have any bracing/supports in place to prevent the shelves from sagging in the middle, or are your shelves strong enough that they won't sag under the given weights you intend putting on them? I suppose the good thing is most of the equipment will have wide feet that will rest close to your shelf support blocks so the weight will mostly be distributed close to the edges of the shelves.
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