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Everything posted by inMotionGraphics

  1. I don't know the Pro Control system, but my Logitech Harmony Elite (Hub, Remote and docking station) is probably one of the best investments I've made in recent years. It took over the duties of all the remotes I was relying on (8 of them). It's now the only remote I need to drive everything from my home theater to my smart lighting. All other remotes have been packed away for over a year now. The Pro Control looks quite a bit more expensive, but not sure how it compares otherwise. The Elite is currently selling for $ 249.99 (normally $ 349.99): https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/harmony-elite I haven't invested in a full blown power conditioner, but I did purchase an IsoTek power distribution strip, and good quality shielded power cables (for what it's worth): EVO3 POLARIS: https://www.isoteksystems.com/product/discovery/evo3-polaris/ The above solution is good enough for me, as it will filter out Common Mode and Differential Mode mains noise, reduce RFI, and adds a bit of surge protection. Anything more than this is low priority and probably only makes sense on very high end gear in my opinion - unless you have the money to shell out luxuries... 🙂
  2. Ah, good question... I built a frame on the cement ceiling slab using galvanized angles (50mm x 25mm x 3.6m) which are just 0.8mm thick and so very light. This is what they look like: https://dbnonline.ubssa.co.za/marley-galv-angle-50x25-3-6m-680894.html. The 25mm side gets fastened to the ceiling and the 50mm side hangs down at a right angle. The sides of the ceiling cloud will be screwed to these 50mm sides. I used 6mm x 50mm Express Nail Anchors (lots of them) to attach the Angles to the cement slab. These work well because all you have to do is drill through the angle and into the cement slab, and then hit them in with a hammer. This is a huge time saver when you need to do one every 30cm or so... I went overkill on this as the last thing I want is for the entire thing to come down on someone. But this thing is strong enough for me to hang on, so no risk of that... 🙂 Here's an image of the Express nails: Now that I have the galvanized frame on my ceiling, the ceiling cloud just slides over this frame, and then I used brass screws to screw through the sides of the cloud and into the angled frame. The galvanized angles are soft enough that you can just screw straight into them without having to drill holes first. I added a screw every 15mm or so, just to make sure that it will never come down on someone's head. Then I used wood filler to cover the counter sunk screw heads and painted over everything. Done! I hope this answers your question, but if anything is unclear, let me know and I'll gladly assist further. Brendon
  3. I suppose there is such a thing as too much for a given space, but in my opinion (and others might disagree) I think most rooms can safely handle anything up to a full Dolby Atmos setup (7.2.4). You are always in control of the volume you play at. I chose to go with 7.1.2 mainly for budget reasons and the limitations of my receiver, but I'm confident adding the additional 2 in-ceiling speakers for a 7.1.4 setup would make things even better, but I'm happy with what I have now. My next investment will be a second subwoofer for a 7.2.2 setup. RP500SA: If you are planning on using these for Dolby Atmos, are you not able to do in-ceiling speakers? My first choice would be in-ceiling for Atmos. I have the PRO-180RPC which are awesome, but I believe these may only be available to custom installers in the USA, so the CDT-5800-C II would be what most are going with. For subs, I would look at the SVS subs from the PB 3000 and up, depending on your budget and if you can afford them. Otherwise the Klipsch SPL-150 or the R-115SW is a more affordable alternative. You can start with one, but ideally you'd eventually want to have 2 so that you can get a more even bass response around the room. I power my entire system from my Yamaha A2070 receiver, and I have more power than I would ever need in this room (4.8m x 4.7m x 3.2m). Would it sound better with a separate power amp driving the front stage... maybe, but I certainly don't need it and there are more important things I want to invest in such as another sub. So if I were you, I would start off just with the AVR for now. Rather invest in a second sub or good in-ceiling speakers... and then if you find you need more power or dynamics, you can upgrade to separates later. I honestly don't think you need to worry about this. You're choosing an excellent AVR with Excellent speakers... and as long as you set them up correctly, they will deliver tons of Chrystal clear sound that will leave a smile on your face every time you listen to them. My final and overall recommendation: get the AVR that will allow you to eventually add the number of channels you want to end up with, and then start building up to that slowly as your budget allows. You can always stop adding to the system if you think you have enough. But you won't need more than 7.2.4 in my opinion, and even 5.1.2 will give you plenty of joy. I hope this helps. PS: For what it's worth, I have two very busy cats, and while I have chosen to leave my grills on (just to be safe) neither of them have touched the grills (4 years now for the one cat and 2 years for the other cat). They do jump up on the speakers from the sides, but for some reason they always avoid the grills, even when climbing down. But every cat is different as seen by some of the other responses above. Keep the grills on to start with and see how your cats behave with the speakers.
  4. @Jwebb27 Sounds like you're well on your way to an EPIC home theater setup. The only area I'd recommend giving some more thought to is the AVR. The Marantz SR5013 7.2 is capable of powering a Dolby Atmos system up to 5.1.2 from what I can tell, which would certainly satisfy the requirements you laid out in your original post. However, if it were me, I'd take a look at how much more it would cost to get a 9.2 channel Marantz so that you can later expand to 5.2.4 or 7.2.2 Atmos/DTS-X, or even better, one that has 11 channels of processing and 9 powered channels so you can expand to 7.2.4 if you add an additional 2 channel power Amp, without having to replace your receiver. To be clear though, I'm not suggesting you buy more channels than you will actually ever use, but just try and establish where your upper limits will eventually be so that you don't end up having to spend more money replacing a relatively new AVR later. In my case, I got a good deal on the Yamaha RX-A2070 which is perfect for my 7.2.2 Atmos system, and more than enough for my size room (4.8m x 4.7m x 3.2m), however if I ever wanted to upgrade to a full 7.2.4 Atmos system, I'd have to replace my receiver with the A3070 or A3080 to get those additional 2 channels of processing. I am very happy with my system as it currently stands, and don't think I need the extra two channels in this room, but you know how it is with these things... we always like to have the option of improving things whenever finances allow, and I can't help wondering what it might be like with 4 overhead Atmos speakers... 🙂 So all I'm saying is just think about this now and make sure that you are getting the receiver that will keep you happy for at least the next few years. Atmos and DTS-X have been an incredibly rewarding investment for me, and are well worth striving towards in my opinion. BTW: Excellent choice in speakers! They reviewed very well on Audioholics recently: https://www.audioholics.com/tower-speaker-reviews/klipsch-rp-8000f Enjoy building your new theater... Brendon
  5. Very nicely done! You've clearly put a lot of thought, work and money into your home theater, and I think it looks great. I wish you many hours of enjoyment with your new gear. PS: How does it all sound?
  6. Yeah, you can't go wrong with the RF7's... I think you chose well. The additional 5W probably isn't going to make a huge difference, and I'm not sure what the price difference is, but if your budget allows, I'd go with the 830 as well. In addition to the additional power, it may come with a few other useful features, although glancing at the specs briefly I couldn't spot the differences, but hopefully some of the other forum members that are more familiar with the specs of these receivers can advise you on this. Here I assume you're wanting to use the old 600 to take the 830 from a 9.2 setup to an 11.2 setup? I'll have to leave this to one of the more experienced forum veterans that have hands on experience with these receivers. In my mind the only thing you'd need to figure out is whether you have a suitable input into the sr600 for your additional 2 channels. This is unfortunately over my head though, as I haven't tried to use a receiver as a power amp, so I don't know if this is doable.
  7. Sorry for any confusion, I'm actually not familiar with the Onkyo receivers, I just saw the video I shared above yesterday, and thought this would be something for you to consider. If the Onkyo receivers can do the same thing, and are cheaper, then by all means, choose one of those instead. I do know the Onkyo receivers are generally well priced for what you get. Update: Had a look at the two Onkyo models you mentioned, and they are indeed 9.2 channel, expandable to 11.2 with an external amp.
  8. @Punchysaurus, sounds like you've got an awesome speaker setup for your lower channels now. Well done! As for the receiver, if you really do want a receiver that will allow for future expansion to Dolby Atmos, then I think you should really consider the new Denon AVR-X3600H. I personally only have experience with the Yamaha receivers, but I watched this Audioholics video yesterday, and the price and potential for expansion down the line really does makes sense to me, even though you'd be spending a bit more up front now: New Denon 11CH Atmos/DTS:X AV Preamp for $1,100?!? This way you not only have the option of adding Dolby Atmos, but you could even add additional amps later if you feel the need to... If it were me, I'd rather spend a bit more now and get a receiver that I can grow into, instead of replacing it again in a year or two when you want to add Dolby Atmos channels. And as for features, the only tech you won't be getting as far as I can tell, is Auro 3D, which wouldn't really bother me, as I've only got one Blue-Ray with Auro 3D in my collection so far... Just my 2 cents... 😉
  9. In addition to the above, I just thought of something else that might help... if the amp you get has an ARC or eARC HDMI connection, and your TV also has one, then switching the amp on shouldn't be an issue at all. They will effectively be synced together, and switching the one on and off, should switch the other on and off.
  10. I might not be in a position to answer your question directly, especially if by "amp" you are planning on buying just an amp and not a receiver (AVR). I haven't used power amps since my original and over the top powerful home theater from about 15 years ago, so i can't advise you on the functionality of just an amp with a TV in this day and age. However, if you are considering purchasing an AVR (receiver), then this is easily solved in a number of ways. However, when going with an AVR setup, I would recommend rather making the receiver the central control point. Most decent receivers from the well known brands (Yamaha, Denon, Marantz etc) should have no trouble controlling the basic functions of your TV. And if you connect your TV to your receiver via an ARC or eARC enabled HDMI connection, your TV and receiver will turn on and off together with one action, and volume will be control via your receiver remote. I also think you'll get a better experience overall making your receiver the central control point rather than your TV. Now if you really want to control all your devices from just one remote and pack all your other remotes away permanently, one of the best investments I've made in my home theater to date is investing in the not-so-cheap Logitech Harmony Elite system. This one universal remote has literally replaced 7 remotes I was previously relying on to control everything that is connected to my home theater system. After setting the remote up to control everything, I haven't needed to take out any of the original remotes again. It handles everything from complex setups on my Yamaha A2070 receiver, Smart TV, TV Apps, Blue-Ray player, Sat TV Box, Amazon Fire Stick, Smart Lights etc... and all the actions can be triggered by my Google Home Assistant (or Alexa), so your system can be voice activated as well. Best investment ever for me! 🙂 ...but if your goal is just a small amp and TV, then I'm sure someone on the forum will advise you on this soon... 🙂
  11. Wow, that's very interesting. Thank you for the clarification. I actually purchased them from my local dealer (physical store/show room) in South Africa - which is where I buy all my Klipsch and Yamaha gear. I know they do high-end installations, so that is maybe how they got them. But also strange that Klipsch support would recommend a speaker that I should actually not have access to... unless that only applies in the US... 🙂 I must say, I'm very happy with these speakers, and I definitely don't feel like I need to angle the woofer and tweeter towards me. Since these appear to be a new model, I thought perhaps Klipsch had decided this was no longer a necessary feature, especially for effects speakers. Either way, they work great, and they pack a punch for what they are...
  12. @MetropolisLakeOutfitters, you're probably the right guy to ask about this... the guys at Klipsch support recommended their PRO-180RPC when I asked them which in-ceiling speakers I should get for my Dolby Atmos upgrade that will work well with their Reference Premiere and RF7 ranges, which is what I ended up getting. So I've been wondering for a while now what the difference is between the PRO-180RPC and the CDT-5800-C-II. Are you able to shed some light on this, and which are the better match to their new flagship ranges? Thank you. Brendon
  13. I totally agree with what everyone has said above, but I just wanted to chime in and reassure you that I too had to mount my rear surround speakers above the door frame height, and while it isn't the height Dolby recommends exactly, you can have peace of mind that they work great and sound excellent at that height. So go for it, and enjoy the fruits of your labor...
  14. They are EXCELLENT in my opinion! I actually contacted Klipsch support and explained what I am planning and asked them which would be the absolute BEST speakers I could get from their in-ceiling speaker range, and this is what they recommended. These will match their RP and RF range perfectly. And you definitely don't need the tweeter aimed at you. I think they did away with this feature in this new model for a reason. And you know you've got a very capable speaker in your ceiling when you run auto room calibration and it sets all your speakers to small, but sets your mains and the PRO-180RPC in-ceilings to large... LOL I of course set them to small manually, but was just funny to see... Anyway, they work brilliantly for Atmos and DTS-X, and sound great with music, even on their own. I wouldn't know how they compare to other in-ceiling speakers, but I couldn't be happier with them, and will add another pair if/when I upgrade my theater to a bigger or dedicated room. Sounds like heaven to me... I'm a little jealous... 😉
  15. Thank you @LawCPA, I appreciate your feedback. And no, I haven't shared it on AVS or anywhere else yet. I was planning on posting in the "Lets see your Home Theater" thread on this forum at some point. When I do that, I'll be sure to share it on AVS as well. Thanks for the suggestion.
  16. Wow, those 4 x R-115SW's must pack a decent punch in this room! What I would give to have 4 of those babies in my setup. Sadly, they are so expensive here in South Africa, so I'll have to keep saving... 🙂 For what it's worth, I would definitely go in-ceiling for your height channels if you can... just the way you described. I recently added 2 x PRO-180RPC in-ceiling speakers, and it way surpassed my expectations and was totally worth the effort:
  17. @angelluisg I did see your speakers in your list, which is how I know what the frequency responses of your front and center speakers are. Even if Audyssey set your crossovers at 40hz and 60hz, you can (and probably should) override these settings so that they fall well within the capabilities of your speakers. None of your speakers can operate effectively down to 40hz, so you should let your subwoofers handle these low frequencies. If I were you, I would start by raising your crossover frequencies for your fronts and center to 80hz. See how that sounds and then experiment from there, but I wouldn't go much lower than 80 if it were my system. Then if you want more immersive sound, try increasing the volume of your surround and atmos speakers. Remember, Audyssey should just be a starting point. Don't be afraid to make minor tweaks and adjustments to improve things to your liking. I hope this helps. Brendon
  18. I'm not sure it's possible to advise you remotely on what levels to set your speakers at so that you get more immersive sound, as every room is different and will have different characteristics and requirements. However we can address this crossover issue, and there are various schools of thought on this, which you'll ultimately have to decide on what works best for you. In my opinion, you have your center and fronts set too low. Your frequency response of your fronts is rated at: 59Hz-24KHz ± 3dB, and the frequency response of your center is rated at: 58-25kHz +/- 3dB. So setting your fronts to 60Hz is a bit too low as you need to factor the roll off in, and setting your center to 40Hz is way too low, as this falls way below the capabilities of your center speaker. In both cases I would up the crossover settings to 80Hz. For what it's worth, I recently lowered my fronts from 80 down to 60, as my fronts are rated at 35Hz - 24kHz +/- 3dB, but then set it back up to 80Hz after coming across a compelling argument for keeping them higher. Now not everyone will agree with this way of thinking, but from the speaker specs on paper, we simply don't know how much output our speakers will actually have at these lower frequencies, and it's unlikely that my double x 8 inch woofers in my speaker towers will have anywhere near the same output at these lower frequencies as a dedicated 12 or 15 inch subwoofer would. So it would be better to leave the subwoofer to handle these lower frequencies, even if your speakers technically can reach down lower. But again, there are various schools of thought on this, and many people do set their fronts down to 60Hz. But your your speakers really don't have a low enough frequency response to do this. Be that as it may, I recommend you gather all the facts and then make a decision that works best for your situation To get you started, I highly recommend this Audioholics discussion on the topic: Let us know what you end up going with... and I hope you manage to squeeze the performance out of your system that you're looking for. Brendon
  19. @bgalakazam As a matter of interest, how long have you had these speakers? One of my PRO-180RPC in-ceiling speakers had an imperfection in the woofer from the factory (really just a minor blemish), but the Klipsch dealer in South Africa exchanged it, no questions asked. I would contact your dealer and explain to them what's going on, or contact Klipsch support directly if you don't come right with your dealer. We pay good money for these speakers, and they're well worth it, but you need to be happy with them at the end of the day.
  20. Thank you Bronzeman, and I couldn't have said it better myself regarding form and function... 🙂 "I've found this guy on YouTube who is a wealth of information His DIY videos on acoustics are an college course." No way! I just found this guy a week or so ago too... I'm not sure how I found him, but his video on the "The World's Second best Speaker" most likely followed another home theater related video I was watching... or maybe you even posted it on the forum somewhere, but I immediately went down the rabbit hole watching a number of his "not so short" but very interesting videos, and subscribed to his channel. This is the video that got me to the channel: Cheers Brendon
  21. Thanks guys, I really appreciate you taking the time to look at my photos and your positive feedback. Yeah, I was a bit concerned that the slots would make the entire ceiling cloud look ugly, but I was pleasantly surprised (and relieved) that it actually enhances the overall design and makes the ceiling look more interesting... all the while of course helping to reduce ceiling reflections. I also made my own acoustic panels that include Rockwool and a Flexible Noise Barrier product for the backing to cover the windows and door etc. The 2-fold idea behind these is to reduce acoustic reflections and to reduce the amount of sound getting through the windows and door etc. I might share the construction process of these in a separate post once I've done some before and after measurements in case anyone wants to copy them. Thank you dtel. And yeah, the lights are even better than I imagined they'd be. The recessed LED strip lights are connected to controllers that have a sound to light feature and various other programs so I can have a real night club vibe for parties, and both the downlights and strip lights connect to my Wi-Fi network, so I can control them with my Google Home (voice activated) or via apps.
  22. I completed my ceiling cloud and drop ceilings about 2 weeks ago, and thought I'd share some photos of how it turned out in case anyone is interested. I'm really happy with everything, and those PRO-180RPC's sound great! This expands my theater to 7.2.2. Totally worth the effort and expense... At over 100kg, getting this monstrosity (the center speaker cloud) mounted to my abnormally high ceiling slab (3.3m) was a huge challenge, but glad it all worked out well in the end. It took a total of 5 days and 3 hours from the first bit of glue and screw until it was mounted with one coat of primer and one top coat of paint, and the down lights installed. Then I spent an additional day wiring the LED strip lights. It still needs another coat of paint, but I ran out of time before my family arrived for a week long visit... 🙂 The perimeter drop ceiling was built and painted the week before... so I only needed to do the wiring and install the lights still. And in case you’re wondering, those slats aren’t for design purposes, but are actually for acoustic absorption to try and help with ceiling reflections. I’ve got a 100mm thick layer of Rockwool above those slats. It might sound like a crazy amount of effort to go to for Dolby Atmos, but it's TOTALLY worth it! Cheers Brendon
  23. Hi Felipe, You can open a support ticket here: http://support.klipschgroupinc.com/ I hope this helps. B
  24. I’m in the process of building a speaker (and lighting) cloud that will enable me to add in-ceiling speakers for Dolby Atmos, and I was hoping I could tap into the vast experience you guys have developed over the years building and tweaking your home theatres with Klipsch speakers. This is going to get a bit complicated and I apologize in advance, but I will do my best to provide you with as much context and information as possible so that you can advise me on the best route forward. Now the reason I need such a complicated solution is because I have a cement slab for a ceiling, so I can’t mount in-ceiling speakers in the ceiling directly. I’ve also used this as an opportunity to build an interesting drop ceiling effect with secluded LED light strips around the perimeter ceiling and my cloud in the middle – just in case you’re wondering why the madness… 😊 Here's what it will look like from ground looking up. The grey parts are the drop ceiling and cloud which drops 20cm from the cement slab (these will have secluded LED strip lights around them), the white part is the slab and the round white dots are LED downlights. The cloud will be built using 15mm thick Baltic Birch Ply (unless you have any better recommendations). I considered MDF but it’s too heavy. Apologies for the metric dimensions, but I’m hopeless at the Imperial system… [all dimensions in diagrams are in centimeters] I’ve purchased the PRO-180RPC In-Ceiling Speakers, and I have been in contact with Klipsch support seeking advice on what would be best for these specific speakers. However I wasn’t really able to get a definitive answer from them for my unique situation. This is the gist of what they say: “Our in-ceiling and in-wall speakers are designed to work with an infinite baffle so a speaker cloud with no backing to close it would work well in this case.” “The box size with not have any affect on the sound of the speaker. So build what ever size works for your building needs.” The reason why I do need some kind of partition for the speakers is because the middle part of the cloud will have slots cut into it and filled with Rockwool to act as acoustic dampening similar to this: https://www.genesisacoustics.co.za/productdetails.php?id=100101 to help deal with reflections from the ceiling. Since rockwool is fibrous and messy, I want to keep it away from my speakers. Having built speakers and subwoofers in the past, my first instinct is to build individual sealed boxes within the cloud for each speaker according to “perfectly calculated” volumes, however this doesn’t seem to apply to these speakers according to Klipsch. The other concern I have and reason for a closed system is to try and reduce sound from the speakers hitting the cement slab and transferring through to the neighbours upstairs (or at least any more than it does already). So here are the three options I’m trying to decide between, from easiest to most complicated to implement, along with any concerns I have with each: Option 1: Simple Partition As seen in the image above, I simply add a divider between the cement slab and cloud base (baffle) that stretches from one side to the other of the cloud. This is the simplest to construct and will save some weight. Concerns and potential issues: An LED downlight on either side of each speaker section will be included in the box. Not sure if this will have an adverse effect on the sound. There is nothing between the back of the open speaker and the cement slab above it, so I’m worried about more sound transferring to the apartment upstairs. I’m also wondering if cement slab essentially forming the back side of the speaker box will have a negative effect on the sound quality. Option 2: Sealed Partition that excludes the downlights This is exactly the same as the one above, except I’ve now added side panels to seal the speakers off from the downlights. Again, the cement slab will form the back side of the “speaker box”. Same concerns and potential issues regarding the cement slab. Option 3: Fully Sealed Speaker boxes This was my original and more ambitious plan. Here I’ve lowered the partition walls to 14cm and added a wooden back panel to seal the box off. There will be a 3cm gap between the 15mm ply board and the cement slab, which I will fill with 3cm thick rockwool in case it helps absorb the sound travelling through to the slab. Advantages (at least in my simple mind): Speaker has it’s own sealed box (Klipsch says this isn’t necessary, but I still can’t wrap my head around it, so maybe you guys can cure my stubbornness if I’m being ridiculous). Sound travelling through to the slab above could be reduced somewhat. Even Klipsch claim that their ME-800-C metal enclosure reduces sound transmission by at least 10db. The 3cm air gap and insulation could also help reduce sound transfer to slab. Disadvantages More time consuming to build More wood required, added expense and added weight. The weight is the greatest concern here. Taking all the above into consideration, which option would you guys recommend. If I can avoid option 3 with little to no adverse effects, then that would be preferable, but I’ve spent a lot on these speakers and the construction so far, so I want to do what is going to sound the best at the end of the day. I’m sure you guys know what I mean… 😉 Thank you for your patience and taking the time to read this, and I appreciate any input and advice you guys have to offer. Thank you Brendon
  25. That's correct, but they also cost quite a bit more... if the XPA range fits your budget, it would definitely be worth taking a look.
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