Jump to content

inMotionGraphics

Regulars
  • Posts

    216
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by inMotionGraphics

  1. Awesome, thanks for the update Glenn! I need to upgrade to a 4K player in the near future, so I appreciate all your feedback. Keep us posted, I look forward to hearing more... Cheers Brendon
  2. Those are rear Surrounds for sure... and normally you would add side surrounds (or just surrounds) before you add rear surrounds, and they would be anywhere from directly next to your listening position, to a few degrees behind you, but still on the side wall. Don't worry, you're totally sane bro... 😉
  3. Well done mate! You'll be happy you did it... 🙂
  4. Is the camera lens warping every time the bass hits? 🙂
  5. Looks like a nice system you're putting together here. My only comments/questions: You're building a 7.1 channel system, right, so no Dolby Atmos/DTS-X? In that case, couldn't you go bookshelf speakers on the side and rear walls instead of in-ceiling speakers for surrounds and rear surrounds? In-ceiling are perfect for height or overhead channels, but for surrounds, just above ear level would be better... or am I misunderstanding your list? If you can squeeze out a few more dollars from your budget, I would consider going SPL-150 or R-115 (15 inch) sub, as it will dig a bit lower, unless bass really isn't that important to you... 🙂
  6. Well if you're happy with 7.1, then that's great. Now you can focus on getting the most out of your 7.1 system that you can afford. I just looked up your receiver, and of course it does already have Dolby Atmos and DTS-X etc, so you are already getting Dolby Atmos if you listen to a Dolby Atmos source. Even if you don't have the in-ceiling speakers or Atmos up-firing speakers, it still decodes in Dolby Atmos and does the best it can with the speakers you have available, which is why you can still hear the height information with your 7.1 system... Dolby Atmos, DTS-X and Auro3D are brilliant technologies... 🙂 Yeah, I totally understand. I also have a concrete slab ceiling and went to great lengths to build a fake / drop ceiling, but living in South Africa, I don't have the heating/cooling issues that you have. At best you could hang speaker boxes from the concrete slab, but this probably won't look very nice, and as you say, you don't need it.
  7. Sounds like you've gone to great lengths to set everything up according to Dolby recommendations, which is great. As for the upgrade path, the center speaker is your most important, so I'd go with the best center you can afford. If it's the RP450C, then great. Next I would look at a second sub (and as big as you can afford), so R-115/SPL-150 or any other 15+ inch sub that fits your budget. Unless you have seriously lacking bass, then you might consider going second sub first and then center. I don't have personal experience with your receiver, but it should be perfectly fine for these speakers. As a matter of interest, why aren't you interested in Dolby Atmos. I found Dolby Atmos to be an incredibly worthwhile upgrade to my system.
  8. Sorry bud, but I don't have any personal experience with the specific speakers you are asking about, so I could only assist you with the layout issues. As far as in-ceiling speakers for Atmos goes, I use the PRO-180RPC IN-CEILING speakers, and can highly recommend them. They will go well with any of the RP and RF series of speakers. As for the RP41SA atmos speakers you are considering, those are more intended to bounce the sound off the ceiling instead being mounted in the ceiling, or alternatively as height elevation speakers on the wall. From the product description on Klipsch's website: ", the R-41SA bounces sound off the ceiling to create an astonishing, immersive listening experience. The R-41SA can also be utilized as an on-wall elevation or surround speaker via its easy-to-use keyhole mounting system - delivering the perfect angle for enhanced sound effects." Since you already have the wiring in the ceiling for in-ceiling speakers, I don't think you should be looking at these... rather get actual in-ceiling speakers. And then as for the SPL100, I would rather save up and get the SPL-150 if I was you. Then later you might even want to add a second one to distribute the bass more evenly... in my humble opinion you can't have too much bass, but you can definitely have too little... 🙂 I think that's about as much as I can help you. Hopefully someone else has experience with the RP range you are asking about.
  9. @DALEDEEE Very nice, thank you! Those really are thick boys, hey... 😉
  10. Sounds great! Any chance we can see a photo of the room and panels? I would love to see what 6 and 8 inch panels look like in a room.
  11. It sounds like you are referring to the centre of the back wall. But as @willland suggested, they should be on your side wall, either next to your listening position or slightly behind. Here's a diagram of what Dolby recommends for a 5.2.2 setup. I recommend you study the recommendations on this page, and then make adjustments to your specific needs from there: https://www.dolby.com/about/support/guide/speaker-setup-guides/5.1.2-dolby-atmos-enabled-speaker-setup-guide/ Update: The exception to the above recommendation would be if your couch is pushed right up against the back wall (although even then I'd put them on the side wall, rather than the rear wall), or you don't have any space on your side walls. Then you may need to consider mounting them on the rear wall...
  12. After watching @Youthman's video last night, I so badly want two of these bad boys as well!
  13. Just thought I'd let you guys know that I finally decided to bite the bullet and ordered the Music and Audio book and Blue-Ray Disk, taking advantage of his 50% off promotion he is currently running... 😉 I can't wait to get my hands on it and dive in... thanks for the push! 🙂
  14. Have you heard of any issues with the new SPL-150 amps? I thought they've solved those issues...
  15. I don't think they do still use these poor quality amps. The SPL-150 have an entirely different plate amp in them, and I haven't heard anyone complaining about amp issues with these. I have one, but it's only a few months old, so time will tell... 🙂
  16. Well, @robert_kc clearly seems to be the most qualified to answer this question, considering he's got multiple setups of the best of the best from Klipsch in both form factors... as for me, I can only dream of upgrading to just 1 pair of RF-7III's one day... so respect to Robert! 🙂 Having said that though, I can't help feeling that if you're going to use a third RF-7III as your center, then it really needs to be standing upright and at the exact same level as your front left and right RF-7III's, and for this to work well, you'd need to have it behind an acoustically transparent screen. If this is not the case, then I feel like you would most likely be better served with the RC-64III that has been meticulously designed to lie horizontally, even if it isn't the ideal speaker form factor... But you certainly can't go wrong with any of these speakers at this level, and I must admit I'm a little jealous... 😉
  17. This makes total sense and sounds like a good plan. I honestly don't think you need to worry about the power of the receiver vs. the power of the center speakers. These centers are pretty efficient speakers, so I'm quite sure they will be more than loud enough in your small room way before the receiver runs out of power. But perhaps someone on the forum who owns a RP-404c can weigh in on this. Yes, I do think it can handle it without damaging the speaker, as long as you don't turn it up to a point of distortion, but I think your ears will give in before that happens... 🙂
  18. These speakers will work great with the denon x2700h I'm sure. The only potential limitation is if you want to add more channels for Dolby Atmos and DTS-X later for example (5.1.4 or 7.1.2 etc). From what I can tell, this is a 7 channel receiver... so that could be limiting down the line. And the only other two recommendations I can make is that you always try and get the best center speaker you can realistically afford. So if you can buy one or two models up, even if you have to save a bit first, this could be worthwhile in the long run instead of having to replace the R-34C later... and get the biggest subwoofer you can afford, and later add a second one when your budget allows... 🙂 I hope this helps. Brendon
  19. The fronts and center are excellent choices so far. I don't have any personal experience with the PRO-180-RPW, although I do use the PRO-180RPC IN-CEILING SPEAKERS for my Dolby Atmos speakers, and they are awesome, so I'm sure the in-wall will be excellent too. But a lot of people go the route of RP-502S for surround and RP-600M for rear surround, and have been very happy, so I don't think you can go wrong either way, but personally, I'd go for the latter if you can afford it. RP-600's are quite a deep speaker to have on the side wall of a relatively narrow room, so this would probably be less desirable and definitely not necessary. RP-502S will be more practical here... For Atmos speakers, definitely go in-ceiling for these. I can highly recommend the PRO-180RPC for this purpose. If I can make one final recommendation... don't skimp on the subwoofer. If you can afford it, rather get the SPL-150 (15 inch), and even better would be two of them to distribute the bass more evenly to your various seats... or start with one, and then get another one when you can afford it... I hope this helps. Brendon
  20. Awesome, thanks for your input and advice Glenn! Greatly appreciated as always... B
  21. Thank you for your detailed response @picky. Yes, I did see that, but unfortunately they don't seem to have anything higher than 2KW @ 240V, even on their own website, so I was wondering whether the higher voltage enables the equivalent performance at a lower wattage rating, but I don't think it work that way... 🙂 Either way, I'm sure this is enough power for my system in its current form. Yes, thankfully power isn't an issue in our 240 volt circuits, as we get 3600 Watts from our regular 15 amp circuits. My entire home theater runs off one 15A line, and doesn't come anywhere near maxing it out, although having everything connected to the same line might not be the cleanest power, which is why I'm considering a power conditioner that can do a bit of line filtering at the same time... 🙂 Yes, I did see this one on Amazon, New Egg and their website, but it won't work for me due to the 120V limitation. So I'll have to give the Tripp Lite 2000W 230V Power Conditioner a try and hope for the best... 😉 Thank you. Brendon
  22. @picky would this be the 240V equivalent of your Tripp Lite LCR-2400? Tripp Lite 2000W 230V Power Conditioner with Automatic Voltage Regulation: https://www.takealot.com/tripp-lite-2000w-230v-power-conditioner-with-automatic-voltage-r/PLID69338454 I couldn't find a higher power rating or rack mounted version for 240 volt regions. So do you think this will be as good as yours, and do you run your entire system through just one of these? Do you think it will handle my Yamaha A2070 (max power rating of 1200W), my TV (about 105W), and 2 x subs (SPL-150 and 120)? I don't drive this system flat out and my inverter and battery backup power system usually shows a total draw of no more than 350W so I'll be surprised if I hit 1000W at any point in time.
  23. Sounds like a great set of speakers you've got there. As for the subs for your room, definitely get at least 2 if you can swing it. This is so that you can distribute the bass more evenly throughout the room. As for which subs to get, this will depend on your budget and how much you are willing to invest in subs. At a minimum, I would aim for 2 x SPL-150 subs from Klipsch. These are relatively affordable 15 inch subs. Or even the older 115 subs if you can find them are willing to go with the older model. But there are better subs that dig lower and provide more output if you are willing to spend more, such as the SVS PB16 for example. Then there's also the JTR Captivator RS2 subs that @Youthman recently upgraded to... I don't have any personal experience with other subs besides the SPL-150's that I currently own, so hopefully others will recommend some other powerful options for you to consider.
  24. I think you might be misunderstanding how Atmos works... you don't actually have to have "atmos" speakers connected to experience Atmos, although having overhead in-ceiling speakers certainly does make it more enjoyable. If you have a 7.1 speaker layout (all bed channels) and your receiver is decoding native Atmos disks (your receiver should say Atmos on the display when it is doing that), then you are already benefiting from the Atmos technology. You just don't have the overhead sound effects coming directly from above, but you're still getting them, they're just being shifted to the rear and side surround channels. Since the limiting factor in your system is your receiver with only 7 discreet channels, you can either stick with 7 bed channels in a 7.1 configuration or add two in-ceiling speakers for a permanent 5.1.2 configuration. But you definitely don't have to keep changing between these layouts. I would suggest going for the 5.1.2 layout. And then if you are playing a disk that doesn't have an Atmos track, use the DSU (Dolby Surround Upmixer) for Dolby Digital content or the DTS-X upmixer for DTS content, or even just the DSU for both formats if you prefer, and you will still be benefiting from all 5.1.2 speakers in your system, albeit it possibly to a slightly lesser extent than with a native Dolby Atmos track. For what it's worth, I love Dolby Atmos and think it is totally worth the investment in at least 2 in-ceiling speakers... 🙂 I hope this helps...
  25. I would go with the RP-280's if you can afford them. The RP-600's are great speakers I believe, so you can't go wrong with them, but if you have the space and budget, I'd rather get the floor standers. It might be a good idea to try and audition the 280's and 600's and see which sound you like more, as the 600's and 8000's have a new vented tweeter and softer horn (wave guide) that I don't think the 280's have... and no, I don't think you'll have a bigger problem with the neighbors and the 280's vs. the 600's. It's more a question of how loud you push them, and either form factor will make a noise at extreme levels... it's more the subwoofers than you need to be concerned about and manage when it comes to your neighbors in my opinion. I live in an apartment with neighbours above, below and next to me, and manage with floorstanders and a 12 and a 15 inch subwoofer... but I do have tolerant neighbours and I don't pump it at night. As for the center speaker, this is your most important speaker when it comes to movies and TV watching, so I wouldn't skimp here... upgrade your center speaker to the best center you can realistically afford, either at the same time as you upgrade your mains or before you upgrade your mains. Let us know what you decide, and most importantly, enjoy! Brendon
×
×
  • Create New...