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Thank you @LawCPA, I appreciate your feedback. And no, I haven't shared it on AVS or anywhere else yet. I was planning on posting in the "Lets see your Home Theater" thread on this forum at some point. When I do that, I'll be sure to share it on AVS as well. Thanks for the suggestion.

Wow, those 4 x R-115SW's must pack a decent punch in this room! What I would give to have 4 of those babies in my setup. Sadly, they are so expensive here in South Africa, so I'll have to keep saving... 🙂 For what it's worth, I would definitely go in-ceiling for your height channels if you can... just the way you described. I recently added 2 x PRO-180RPC in-ceiling speakers, and it way surpassed my expectations and was totally worth the effort:

@angelluisg I did see your speakers in your list, which is how I know what the frequency responses of your front and center speakers are. Even if Audyssey set your crossovers at 40hz and 60hz, you can (and probably should) override these settings so that they fall well within the capabilities of your speakers. None of your speakers can operate effectively down to 40hz, so you should let your subwoofers handle these low frequencies. If I were you, I would start by raising your crossover frequencies for your fronts and center to 80hz. See how that sounds and then experiment from there, but I wouldn't go much lower than 80 if it were my system. Then if you want more immersive sound, try increasing the volume of your surround and atmos speakers. Remember, Audyssey should just be a starting point. Don't be afraid to make minor tweaks and adjustments to improve things to your liking. I hope this helps. Brendon

I'm not sure it's possible to advise you remotely on what levels to set your speakers at so that you get more immersive sound, as every room is different and will have different characteristics and requirements. However we can address this crossover issue, and there are various schools of thought on this, which you'll ultimately have to decide on what works best for you. In my opinion, you have your center and fronts set too low. Your frequency response of your fronts is rated at: 59Hz-24KHz ± 3dB, and the frequency response of your center is rated at: 58-25kHz +/- 3dB. So setting your fronts to 60Hz is a bit too low as you need to factor the roll off in, and setting your center to 40Hz is way too low, as this falls way below the capabilities of your center speaker. In both cases I would up the crossover settings to 80Hz. For what it's worth, I recently lowered my fronts from 80 down to 60, as my fronts are rated at 35Hz - 24kHz +/- 3dB, but then set it back up to 80Hz after coming across a compelling argument for keeping them higher. Now not everyone will agree with this way of thinking, but from the speaker specs on paper, we simply don't know how much output our speakers will actually have at these lower frequencies, and it's unlikely that my double x 8 inch woofers in my speaker towers will have anywhere near the same output at these lower frequencies as a dedicated 12 or 15 inch subwoofer would. So it would be better to leave the subwoofer to handle these lower frequencies, even if your speakers technically can reach down lower. But again, there are various schools of thought on this, and many people do set their fronts down to 60Hz. But your your speakers really don't have a low enough frequency response to do this. Be that as it may, I recommend you gather all the facts and then make a decision that works best for your situation To get you started, I highly recommend this Audioholics discussion on the topic: Let us know what you end up going with... and I hope you manage to squeeze the performance out of your system that you're looking for. Brendon

@bgalakazam As a matter of interest, how long have you had these speakers? One of my PRO-180RPC in-ceiling speakers had an imperfection in the woofer from the factory (really just a minor blemish), but the Klipsch dealer in South Africa exchanged it, no questions asked. I would contact your dealer and explain to them what's going on, or contact Klipsch support directly if you don't come right with your dealer. We pay good money for these speakers, and they're well worth it, but you need to be happy with them at the end of the day.

Thank you Bronzeman, and I couldn't have said it better myself regarding form and function... 🙂 "I've found this guy on YouTube who is a wealth of information His DIY videos on acoustics are an college course." No way! I just found this guy a week or so ago too... I'm not sure how I found him, but his video on the "The World's Second best Speaker" most likely followed another home theater related video I was watching... or maybe you even posted it on the forum somewhere, but I immediately went down the rabbit hole watching a number of his "not so short" but very interesting videos, and subscribed to his channel. This is the video that got me to the channel: Cheers Brendon

Thanks guys, I really appreciate you taking the time to look at my photos and your positive feedback. Yeah, I was a bit concerned that the slots would make the entire ceiling cloud look ugly, but I was pleasantly surprised (and relieved) that it actually enhances the overall design and makes the ceiling look more interesting... all the while of course helping to reduce ceiling reflections. I also made my own acoustic panels that include Rockwool and a Flexible Noise Barrier product for the backing to cover the windows and door etc. The 2-fold idea behind these is to reduce acoustic reflections and to reduce the amount of sound getting through the windows and door etc. I might share the construction process of these in a separate post once I've done some before and after measurements in case anyone wants to copy them. Thank you dtel. And yeah, the lights are even better than I imagined they'd be. The recessed LED strip lights are connected to controllers that have a sound to light feature and various other programs so I can have a real night club vibe for parties, and both the downlights and strip lights connect to my Wi-Fi network, so I can control them with my Google Home (voice activated) or via apps.

I completed my ceiling cloud and drop ceilings about 2 weeks ago, and thought I'd share some photos of how it turned out in case anyone is interested. I'm really happy with everything, and those PRO-180RPC's sound great! This expands my theater to 7.2.2. Totally worth the effort and expense... At over 100kg, getting this monstrosity (the center speaker cloud) mounted to my abnormally high ceiling slab (3.3m) was a huge challenge, but glad it all worked out well in the end. It took a total of 5 days and 3 hours from the first bit of glue and screw until it was mounted with one coat of primer and one top coat of paint, and the down lights installed. Then I spent an additional day wiring the LED strip lights. It still needs another coat of paint, but I ran out of time before my family arrived for a week long visit... 🙂 The perimeter drop ceiling was built and painted the week before... so I only needed to do the wiring and install the lights still. And in case you’re wondering, those slats aren’t for design purposes, but are actually for acoustic absorption to try and help with ceiling reflections. I’ve got a 100mm thick layer of Rockwool above those slats. It might sound like a crazy amount of effort to go to for Dolby Atmos, but it's TOTALLY worth it! Cheers Brendon

Hi Felipe, You can open a support ticket here: http://support.klipschgroupinc.com/ I hope this helps. B

I’m in the process of building a speaker (and lighting) cloud that will enable me to add in-ceiling speakers for Dolby Atmos, and I was hoping I could tap into the vast experience you guys have developed over the years building and tweaking your home theatres with Klipsch speakers. This is going to get a bit complicated and I apologize in advance, but I will do my best to provide you with as much context and information as possible so that you can advise me on the best route forward. Now the reason I need such a complicated solution is because I have a cement slab for a ceiling, so I can’t mount in-ceiling speakers in the ceiling directly. I’ve also used this as an opportunity to build an interesting drop ceiling effect with secluded LED light strips around the perimeter ceiling and my cloud in the middle – just in case you’re wondering why the madness… 😊 Here's what it will look like from ground looking up. The grey parts are the drop ceiling and cloud which drops 20cm from the cement slab (these will have secluded LED strip lights around them), the white part is the slab and the round white dots are LED downlights. The cloud will be built using 15mm thick Baltic Birch Ply (unless you have any better recommendations). I considered MDF but it’s too heavy. Apologies for the metric dimensions, but I’m hopeless at the Imperial system… [all dimensions in diagrams are in centimeters] I’ve purchased the PRO-180RPC In-Ceiling Speakers, and I have been in contact with Klipsch support seeking advice on what would be best for these specific speakers. However I wasn’t really able to get a definitive answer from them for my unique situation. This is the gist of what they say: “Our in-ceiling and in-wall speakers are designed to work with an infinite baffle so a speaker cloud with no backing to close it would work well in this case.” “The box size with not have any affect on the sound of the speaker. So build what ever size works for your building needs.” The reason why I do need some kind of partition for the speakers is because the middle part of the cloud will have slots cut into it and filled with Rockwool to act as acoustic dampening similar to this: https://www.genesisacoustics.co.za/productdetails.php?id=100101 to help deal with reflections from the ceiling. Since rockwool is fibrous and messy, I want to keep it away from my speakers. Having built speakers and subwoofers in the past, my first instinct is to build individual sealed boxes within the cloud for each speaker according to “perfectly calculated” volumes, however this doesn’t seem to apply to these speakers according to Klipsch. The other concern I have and reason for a closed system is to try and reduce sound from the speakers hitting the cement slab and transferring through to the neighbours upstairs (or at least any more than it does already). So here are the three options I’m trying to decide between, from easiest to most complicated to implement, along with any concerns I have with each: Option 1: Simple Partition As seen in the image above, I simply add a divider between the cement slab and cloud base (baffle) that stretches from one side to the other of the cloud. This is the simplest to construct and will save some weight. Concerns and potential issues: An LED downlight on either side of each speaker section will be included in the box. Not sure if this will have an adverse effect on the sound. There is nothing between the back of the open speaker and the cement slab above it, so I’m worried about more sound transferring to the apartment upstairs. I’m also wondering if cement slab essentially forming the back side of the speaker box will have a negative effect on the sound quality. Option 2: Sealed Partition that excludes the downlights This is exactly the same as the one above, except I’ve now added side panels to seal the speakers off from the downlights. Again, the cement slab will form the back side of the “speaker box”. Same concerns and potential issues regarding the cement slab. Option 3: Fully Sealed Speaker boxes This was my original and more ambitious plan. Here I’ve lowered the partition walls to 14cm and added a wooden back panel to seal the box off. There will be a 3cm gap between the 15mm ply board and the cement slab, which I will fill with 3cm thick rockwool in case it helps absorb the sound travelling through to the slab. Advantages (at least in my simple mind): Speaker has it’s own sealed box (Klipsch says this isn’t necessary, but I still can’t wrap my head around it, so maybe you guys can cure my stubbornness if I’m being ridiculous). Sound travelling through to the slab above could be reduced somewhat. Even Klipsch claim that their ME-800-C metal enclosure reduces sound transmission by at least 10db. The 3cm air gap and insulation could also help reduce sound transfer to slab. Disadvantages More time consuming to build More wood required, added expense and added weight. The weight is the greatest concern here. Taking all the above into consideration, which option would you guys recommend. If I can avoid option 3 with little to no adverse effects, then that would be preferable, but I’ve spent a lot on these speakers and the construction so far, so I want to do what is going to sound the best at the end of the day. I’m sure you guys know what I mean… 😉 Thank you for your patience and taking the time to read this, and I appreciate any input and advice you guys have to offer. Thank you Brendon

That's correct, but they also cost quite a bit more... if the XPA range fits your budget, it would definitely be worth taking a look.

While I don't personally own any of these amps and haven't heard them yet, I've been hearing good things about Emotiva and Outlaw as a relatively affordable way to go. Spare Change recently reviewed models from both of these brands: EMOTIVA BasX A-700 & A-500 Review OUTLAW AUDIO 5000 AMPLIFIER Overview I hope this will help get you started on your hunt for a suitable external amp. Brendon

I agree with @willland... I used the RX-V679, which seems to have the same power output ratings as the RX-V685 for 2 years with a similar setup (2 x R28F, R25C, 2 x R-14M and 2 x R14S) before I upgraded to the RX-A2080. I had more than enough power for my room size and never maxed the system out, despite loving loud music and banging movie watching sessions... I don't have the biggest room (5m x 4.8m x 3.3m), but I'm confident this receiver will handle an even bigger room perfectly fine. For what it's worth, the only reason I upgraded to the Advantage series is because I wanted Dolby Atmos and therefore needed more channels. The great thing about Klipsch is that they make very efficient speakers, so you get a lot of millage out of a receiver with this system.

Thanks for pointing that out @wuzzzer. I (incorrectly) assumed he was meaning he wanted to connect/bridge the main terminals to the Atmos terminals, but I see now how the connections are set up on these speakers on Klipsch's website. Either way, definitely skip the bi-amping, and if it were me, I'd just connect two of the atmos speakers for a 7.2.2 channel setup. I think you'll enjoy these speakers!

Hi PK, The good news is that you most certainly can connect your Dolby Atmos speakers to this receiver, as your receiver does support Dolby Atmos. I'm not familiar with the specific connection arrangement of the Denon receivers, as I use Yamaha receivers, however a quick look at the user manual will show you how to connect those up-firing Atmos speakers. The bad news is that it looks like you might have to forego using one pair of speakers, either the Rear surrounds if you go with a 5.2.4 setup, where the 5 represents: front Left, Front Right, Center, Surround Left and Surround Right, the 2 represents your two subwoofers, and the 4 represents the four atmos speakers. Alternatively, you would choose a 7.2.2 configuration, where you connect the above mentioned 5 speakers + your rear surrounds (RP-502S), your two subs, and then just 2 of the atmos speakers. Once you've decided which configuration your prefer, look this configuration up in the manual and it will show you exactly where to connect the atmos speakers/terminals and how to adjust the settings on the receiver to assign these height channels correctly. On the speaker side, the atmos channels will go to those additional inputs that you referred to in your post. And no, you shouldn't bi-amp the atmos enabled speakers, as that would effectively turn them into a single channel instead of a main and atmos channel. I hope this helps. PS: I should mention that I don't own these Atmos enabled speakers as my atmos are in-ceiling speakers, and neither do I own this receiver, so if I have provided incorrect advice, I am sure one of the forum veterans will correct me... in that case, I apologize. Brendon

Hi Charles, Check that you haven't accidentally disabled embedding on websites for your uploaded video: Go to your Video Manager. Go to the video you want to turn on embedding for and click Edit. Under the video, click Advanced settings. Under "Distribution Options," make sure the Allow embedding checkbox is checked. Click Save changes. I hope this helps. Brendon