BEC

I have a B&C price list. There are 4 versions of the DE75 listed. One of those is the DE75PK. I can find data sheets for all of them except the DE75PK. I suspect that is the one Klipsch uses. Bob Crites

Our buddy Terry Cruse sent me a K-33 out of a Cornwall to see why it did not work many years ago. He had just reached (I believe) 124 db and suddenly the woofer was just silent. When I cut into it found the voice coil had come out of the magnet gap and then just impacted back into the top of the magnet assembly crushing it in the process. Might be what happened to yours. Bob Crites

The CW1526CF can be used in a Chorus II but is not rated at the amount of power the original woofer is. Another consideration is whether or not it will even fit. The cast aluminum frame is 1/8 larger in diameter than the steel frame original woofer. In some cases the cast frame will fit in the recess and in some cases will not fit. Bob Crites

There are no diaphragms for the K-55M. I have managed to modify K-55V diaphragms to work in a K-55M, but the procedure is not easy and I would not recommend doing that except in the case where you have a dead one and are trying to bring it back to life. Bob Crites

They have discontinued the Selenium 25-25 that has been around. I have some that might work. But I doubt there is room to install an adapter and the screw on driver before running into the back of the cabinet. You can send me an email. Bob Crites

The problem may be having enough room in the cabinet to add an adapter and thread on driver. Check that out first. Bob Crites

Lots of CT120s have been installed in the Lascala II. Problem is that at some point Klipsch stopped squaring the corners of the cutout for the tweeter. The K-77D does not need them squared but the CT120 does. A few guys have fixed that in a couple of minutes with a file, but not a job for everyone. I do not know exactly when that change to the rounded corners happened but at least the first several years of production, there was not that problem. On another subject, lots of tweeters get blown in the Lascala II. I sell lots of diaphragms and K-77D tweeters to fix those. Problem is that, in my opinion the polyswitch is just not quick enough to operate and prevent damage when something really quick happens. The polyswitch has to heat up so is good for protection from high continuous power, but sudden high power or a quick transient just takes the 2 watt rated tweeter right out. Even in the olden days when the polyswitch was used in the old AL networks, when that network was used in the Pro version Lascalas, they put in zener diodes. Those will handle the quick transients. Bob Crites

Did you order a complete tweeter or just a new diaphragm. A new diaphragm for your tweeter is all you should need. Bob Crites

The screw on version came first so the Heppner driver could be used on the existing metal horn. Then after Klipsch got the plastic bolt on horns, the screw on snout went away and the driver bolted directly on to the plastic horn. Bob Crites

We used to discuss this a lot back in the olden days concerning the AL crossovers. Forum Member DJK has a lot of hands on experience with those. Here is what he said is usually the cause of the AL blowing tweeters. I think he suggested in another post that the iron the factory used was too small for some of the joints on the AL.

Of the three types mentioned, the AA, AL and AL-3, the AA is the oldest design and very popular even today. The AL is not considered by most to be a good crossover. It is overly complex and as they age, develop bad solder joints and are rather notorious for blowing tweeters because of bad connections. The AL-3 addressed the voicing problems of the previous AL and AL-2 and is considered by most to be a good crossover. Bob Crites

I think this is the one you want.

I bought mine on Oct 16 last year. Going strong so far.

If you measure on the input terminals with it disconnected from the amp, you would essentially be just measuring the resistance of the woofer voice coil and one inductor in series with that woofer. Should read about 4 ohms. The bouncing around would be from sound in the room moving the woofer cone some generating a bit of voltage as it moves the coil inside the magnet. Bob Crites

With all wires disconnected, measure across the driver terminals with the meter set to read resistance. The K-77 should read around 6 to 8 ohms. The K-55 around 10 to 11 ohms. Now, this does not tell you if the driver is good or not, just lets you see if the voice coil is open or shorted. It can read good for resistance and still have other problems that keep it from working right.

Also considerable rewiring of the terminal strip to reverse polarity of the tweeter and squawker to make it a real AA.

I don't think that would make any difference. I have tested them with steel screws used to mount to a horn adapter and tests looked good. Bob Crites

The 365uH coil sounds like what you would get if you used a steel screw inside a 245uH coil instead of a brass or other non magnetic screw. Bob Crites

And another thing while I am in rant mode. They always talk about internet sales putting a lot of brick and mortar stores out of business. I can take you around this small town where I live and show you a bunch of those stores that started doing business on the internet and that saved them. More profitable than they ever were before. The internet let them go after a customer base many times larger than they had before the internet business.

I have to collect and send in sales tax now for Arkansas. It is an extreme pain to comply with all the sales tax laws in just Arkansas. There is the state sales tax, there are county sales taxes, there are city sales taxes. In a given county, your tax rate depends on where you live in that county and whether or not you are inside city limits or outside. And this tax is on where the product is delivered, not where I am. I get letters almost every week updating sales taxes for several different cities and counties in Arkansas. I have so much difficulty keeping up with the Arkansas situation that I cannot imagine having to keep up with 50 different states and all their different tax laws and changes to those laws. And, for one small mistake on filing, the state can and will padlock the business and freeze all bank accounts unless you very quickly fix whatever they say you need to fix. They threatened me with that over $17.00 they said I owed. I disagree with owing them that, but just paid it.

My pair of 1967 Lascalas have the type A crossovers. I think the AA was used starting around 1972. Bob Crites

I don't know what the difference is, but the Tonsil is clearly superior. I don't think it is the throat because I have the 1 3/8 adapters for the Tonsil and they still test better even with the adapter. I have hundreds of the Tonsil drivers in stock. Bob Crites

I don't think they have changed. The spec sheet that they have is the same terrible FR curve I measured when I tried them. Good enough to be fixed using an electronic EQ but not for a passive. Bob Crites

Unfortunately that is one of the new clones Eminence had made. This picture (sorry it is of a couple of old nasty ones) shows how to easy you can determine what you have. The one on the left is an original made by Tonsil in Poland. The one on the right is the clone of that Eminence had made. I was buying them OEM from Eminence when they made the change. When they sent me samples of the clone, I complained that the frequency response was terrible on the clones and that I could not use them any more. I then went directly to Tonsil and bought the originals from them. Eminence actually told me that Tonsil quit making them. Turned out that was just not true.

Let me give you another thing to look for. When I tried to use an aftermarket 12 inch passive in a KG-4, I found that Klipsch actually used a slightly undersize frame on the original passive radiator. In other words, a 12 inch replacement was actually too large to fit into the recess cut into the speaker. Bob Crites