BEC
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Posts posted by BEC
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Craig,
Yeah the stuff on the old circuit boards will be a challenge to replace without doing major damage to the boards. Back in the 70's right after I graduated from Air Force High Value and Micro-Miniature Soldering School would have been a better time for me to do that sort of stuff. A Pace Soldering Station like I used in the Air Force would be nice also.
By the way, any ideas on how I can get a manual or at least a schematic for the Dyna SCA 35.
Bob
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Well for some reason this Ebay purchase arrived today by UPS second day air which is the only kind of USP service available on New Years Eve. My second recent old tube integrated amp purchase. The first is a Scott 222B which is awaiting arrival of caps I have on order. I decided to just throw caution to the wind on this one and "hook er up". I did look inside to make sure nothing looked burned or broken. It seems all original except for the tubes. It has a quad of Sovtek 6BQ5s for outputs, a pair of Sylvania 12AX7's and one Sylvania and one Dyna 7199s. I haven't tested them yet.
As far as its function, pretty good. I hooked it up to a set of Cornwalls, let it warm up then turned the volume all the way up with no signal. A bit of hum (60 Hz.) present. Might need a filter cap. Hit it with some Manheim Steamroller (Classical Gas) and it sounds nice. I was barely able to get it to my normal listening level (about 92 db per Rat Shack Meter) before running out of volume control pot. The Scott 222B will reach this level at about 1 o'clock on its volume control pot and has a bit left before clipping. The Dyna should be able to do about the same but like I said I haven't even tested the tubes yet. The Dyna gave no hint of clipping even at full volume but like I said full volume was nothing like the Scott.
I plan to start reworking both of these amps when the caps arrive. Nice work for cold rainy winter days in Arkansas. The Dyna looks way simpler to work on than the scott. I think it has fewer than half the components in it compared to the Scott.
I also have a Scott LK 48B on the way so the three of these should keep me out of mischief for awhile.
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I believe that after you got your money back you should let him off. Even if you think he didn't "UPS proof" the package, he made you whole by refunding the money. He probably will pack better in the future since he is out an amp. Also if you post negative feedback on him, he will probably post a reply to your feedback saying something like- - Gave the guy his money back and still he leaves negative. What more can I do?
Bob
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As far as ebay fraud is concerned, looks like perhaps they have recently done something to make fraud a bit more difficult. My son opened an Ebay selling account today and they required him to provide a verifiable credit card in his name and a verifiable bank account in his name. Looks like that there are no alternatives to providing both of those things if you want a selling account. Still very little required for a buying account. Just an email address really for buying.
Bob
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Since I have sets of the above mentioned speakers, I guess I will chime in. First came a set of Heresy II's. I was very happy with them but upgrade fever hit me and I found a pair of Chorus I's. I was very impressed with the Chorus but the inevitable upgrade fever hit and Cornwalls came in. These sounded to me exactly the same as the Chorus. That was disapointing since I supposedly had just "upgraded". I kept them set up side by side for several weeks powered by two receivers using the same source. Using remotes for the two receivers after matching the volume to the same level, I would alternately mute and unmute the receivers and challenge whoever happened to be available to tell me which set was playing. Neither me nor anyone I could con into doing the listening test could tell me with any more reliability than coin toss which set was playing. When both sets were being driven at the same time it only sounded as if the volume had been very sightly increased.
Now, I also have a set of Forte I's. When tested side by side with either Cornwalls or Chorus, anyone can tell which is playing. The Fortes seem to be in a bit of a strain to even get to the level I want to listen. There seems to be much more difference than the advertised sensitivity would indicate. I should say that I listen in a 24 X 30 room which is full of stuff and I am sure the Forte I's would perform better in a smaller room, still, the Heresy II's will get loud in here.
Bob
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I have LaScalas, Cornwalls and Chorus 1's in the same room. All sound good but the LaScalas end up getting listened to the most in two channel. To me, the LaScalas sound better in every way than the other two. The real match up is between the Cornwalls and Chorus. I just can really tell no difference between those two sets of speakers.
Bob
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1st Battalion
509th Parachute Infantry Regiment
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John,
Glad I could help a little on this. I have used a lot of different tube testers and own several. If you (or another forum member) are ever looking to obtain a certain one, I may be able to give you a few pointers on that.
Bob
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John,
Usually a "life test" feature on a tube tester decreases the filament voltage by a small amount. A marginal tube might show a decrease in emission which would place it in the bad category when the voltage is reduced on the filament.
Bob
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The Sencore Mighty Mite VI TC154 is a solid state vintage 1969 emission and gas tester. It retailed for $89.95 new. This tester does not test for transconductance so would not be very good for tube matching. A tester like this one would be typically be carried by the TV service guy out on a service call for a "quick and dirty" test of the suspect tubes. It can generally tell you "good" or "bad'" but not much about "how good" or "how bad.
Bob
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As most of you already know, Craig is a very helpful person. Thanks for the manual. I will post some results, and thoughts on the Scott 222B when I receive it.
Bob
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Craig,
I don't know of any email server limit. Give it a try and we will see what happens.
Bob
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Justin,
Thanks for the schematic. Craig has made a kind offer to email helpful stuff to me. It has always amazed me how quickly help is available on this forum.
Bob
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Craig,
Thanks for the offer. I sent you an email.
Bob
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Andy,
The Marantz I have is an MR 255. Probably not near the best of the Marantz offerings but sounds nice and looks great. I hoped someone would comment on the Elecrtovoice Receivers I have. I have two of them, an EV1179 and EV1180. They are almost the same except the EV1180 has a Mag phono input which the EV1179 does not have. These are the only Electrovoice Receivers I have ever seen and I can't find out any information on them. They seem to be late 60's solid state technology. The way the outputs are fused, I would guess the power output to be around 15 WPC.
I really like the sound of the two EV's. They are so clean, clear and open sounding (much different from the other solid state amps I have) that I wonder if they may be closer to the "tube" sound that many forum members talk about. I am really interested in seeing how the Scott 222B compares to them.
Bob
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I spend a lot of time lurking on this forum and I just have to find out what all this "tube" talk is about. I swore off tubes back in the late 60's with all the zeal of a recent 12-step program graduate. I had been surrounded for years by Air Force tube transmitters, receivers, audio amps, and such which greeted me every morning wanting at least 10 new tubes a few caps and perhaps a couple of resistors. I then went to a new assignment where almost everything was solid state and found that the stuff continued to meet specs and almost never broke. Yes I know that the tube stuff was old and that the solid state stuff was new at that time but I don't think that I replaced more than a good double handfull of components in the next 6 years on the solid state gear.
Anyway, having said all that, today I purchased a Scott 222B of rather unknown operational ability on Ebay. If I doesn't work I figure I can fix it since I used to make a meager living on Air Force wages repairing similar beasts. I would, however, like to have a manual on this amp with a schematic. Can anyone on the forum help me with finding one? Downloadable version would be nice.
After I get it and it is working right, I will give it a listen on my Heresy 2s, Forte 1s, Chorus 1s, Cornwalls, and LaScallas. I currently listen to these on solid state by Sony, Marantz and (unique and a favorite) Electrovoice receivers.
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I have a small Electrovoice stereo FM receiver. I was told by the original owner that it is solid state and from the late 60's and that it is a model EV1179. I can't prove that from examination of the receiver. It is Electrovoice for sure. It says that on the outside and inside however there is no model number or serial number on it anywhere. A short search of the internet gave me no indication that Electrovoice ever built a receiver. The unit is small, about 10X10X5 and inside looks like late 60's early 70's high quality solid state. It is quite heavy for its small size. It works great and drives a pair of Cornwalls nicely. I am going to guess that it's output is around 10 to 15 watts per channel. Each speaker output is separately fused at 1.5 amps. OK, can any of you tell me anything about this thing? I would sure like to know the specs for it.
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Thanks for all the good advice. The plan for now is that I will replace the diaphragm on the K-77 and then look for either a K-77 or K-77-M to make them match. I ordered the diaphragm from Simply Speakers at $24 plus shipping.
Interestingly, in the future, I should be able to get a diaphragm almost locally to me in Morrilton Arkansas. EV (Telex) is now in the process of moving their speaker parts group to Morrilton and appearantly all the stuff is on various trucks enroute. If any one needs to know, the phone number for EV parts is 1-501-354-0111. They do not yet have a toll free number in Morrilton.
Bob
This message has been edited by BEC on 04-15-2002 at 02:03 PM
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Well, for my first post, I am asking for help on a set of Cornwall I's I have purchased. These are a pair of unfinished birch with serial nunbers 9P761 and 9P763. I listened to these under less than optimal conditions before purchase. I thought at the time that I wasn't hearing the tweeters as much as I should but went ahead with the purchase. At home it was immediately clear that neither tweeter was working. I took the back off one of the speakers and found that the tweeter voice coil was open. I expected to find the same thing on the second one but instead I found that the tweeter was disconnected in that one. I hooked it back up in that speaker now it sounds great.
Now to the reason I am asking for help. The bad tweeter is a K-77 and the good one is a K-77 M. Everything in both speakers is marked Klipsch and identical except for the different tweeters. If I rebuild the bad K-77, will it be a good match for the good K-77 M? Should I try to find another K-77 M or do I need a pair of K-77's.
Thanks in advance for your help on this. This forum has already been greatly helpful to me in my pursuit of good sound.
K-77 diaphragm replacement info please
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
I think what Mike is looking for is a fairly detailed procedure that was once located here:
http://216.37.9.58/ubb/Forum6/HTML/000471.html
I can't find it on the new "improved" forum either.
Bob