BEC

Looks like it has enough resolution to pick out bad caps, but not enough to really evaluate good caps. Also, might as well just standardize the test for 1000hz for crossover caps. Bob Crites

Let us know if that meter is any good. I might even buy one.

Yeah, what caused that? Some moderator should fix that.

Could be. If it is Kelvin, looks like they would say that. Also they may be a bit English challenged.

That meter looks like quite a deal, but no where does that tell me it has Kelvin leads. Without Kelvin leads I can't see that really resolving low enough to measure ESR or accurately measure DCR of inductors. Normal test leads have more resistance in them than you would see in ESR of a good cap.

That meter looks like quite a deal, but no where does that tell me it has Kelvin leads. Without Kelvin leads I can't see that really resolving low enough to measure ESR or accurately measure DCR of inductors. Normal test leads have more resistance in them than you would see in ESR of a good cap.

That meter looks like quite a deal, but no where does that tell me it has Kelvin leads. Without Kelvin leads I can't see that really resolving low enough to measure ESR or accurately measure DCR of inductors. Normal test leads have more resistance in them than you would see in ESR of a good cap.

That meter looks like quite a deal, but no where does that tell me it has Kelvin leads. Without Kelvin leads I can't see that really resolving low enough to measure ESR or accurately measure DCR of inductors. Normal test leads have more resistance in them than you would see in ESR of a good cap.

Not exactly. I look for ESR to be consistent from cap to cap in new caps. I think it is an indication of quality and having good control of the manufacturing process.

Here are some new 2.0uF caps being tested. First is Erse. Second is Dayton 1 percent. Third is Dayton 5 percent. Fourth is Sonicap. The most important reading here is ESR. The main change we see over time is ESR increasing. Good to start out very low.

Whew!!! I almost backed Dean up with an actual quote from a Klipsch engineer on that subject. Came to my senses before posting.

And Merry Christmas to you Dean.

I did at one time (around 2004 or 2005) have an agreement with Klipsch to resell their parts similar to what Simply Speakers is doing. That went good for awhile but someone high up at Klipsch objected because he found out I was selling parts on the internet. So, they cancelled the deal they had with me. That bothered me at first, but probably was a good thing for me. That caused me to start developing my own parts to use as replacement parts for Klipsch speakers.

I tested the HF-206 on the K-402 but was not as pleased with it's performance as the HF-200. Heinz, probably the owner of the only Jubilees in Germany has used it and the HF-200. I do not know which he preferred. Now the Faital HF-20AT is a better driver than the HF-200, but that being better is really at the very top end above 18khz. Bob Crites

I much prefer the Faital HF-200 to any of the drivers that can be used on the K-402. Much better raw curve on the K-402 than any other driver including the TAD so much less EQ required. Makes going to a passive much easier than with any other driver should you want to go to a passive. Bob Crites.

I think the big price increase was in January 2016. So if you have a price from this year, it is probably good, unless they raise it again this January.

Another Jub owner here. In case you are thinking of a price that someone paid for a pair of Jubilees bought before this year, you should get a current quote. The price increase is more than significant. Bob Crites

For the squawker, the real indication of polarity is a white dot near the positive terminal on the plastic part of the diaphragm. That is hard to see unless you take the horn and driver out of the cabinet, so usually someone marks that side on the back of the driver with a yellow dot. The tricky part here is that if someone ever changes the diaphragm, he may not install the new diaphragm so it matches up with the yellow dot. So on those, always better to go back to the source looking for the white dot on the diaphragm. Bob Crites

Just go by the wire colors. Black always goes to negative on the drivers. Bob Crites

That is a Chorus II. Crossover is on a PC board attached to the back of the input terminal cup. No terminal strip, so no screw terminals.

No, you have to separate the circuit board from the plastic input terminal cup. The autotransformer can stay where it is. Bob Crites

I agree, better with the circuit board but poorly implemented when it comes time to rebuild. We could also say that about the Quartet network. Looking at the picture I have attached, you can sort of tell there is a screw under the steel core inductor that has to be removed to get the circuit board off. It has to be removed using a pair of long nose pliers to get the circuit board off. Later has to be reinstalled using those long nose pliers. I think that method had to be used at the factory to get that screw installed initially. Bob Crites

Or big improvement if you compare to how the Heresy II crossover was done before the circuit board. The one we affectionately call the "Pile of Parts" crossover. Bob Crites

Yes, that is it. Bob Crites

Yes, but first you have to unsolder the two wires that attach to the input terminals where they come up through the circuit board. Bob Crites