hello

Good point. An informal test was that one of my amplifiers, and Adcom 535, runs cool at full volume, with other crossovers I tried I could get it warm, which makes me think the speaker in it's current configuration is pretty easy to drive. Maybe the impedance of the woofer goes up in the frequencies where the capacitor is active. Thanks for the suggestions. I thought about adding a small value .22-.33ohm resistor in front of the capacitor to match the inductors resistance. But I can usually hear resistors so I hesitated doing so and don't have any on hand anyway.

I tuned it by ear. So it may have some minor peaks and valleys. It sounds better to me, a lot better. I agree these drivers are very good. Yes, I do know what the capacitor is for and also what it does to the sound. When I said all that sound I was referring to all of the frequencies going through that capacitor instead of the woofer. It cuts off some very important sound that the ear is very sensitive to. I know the tweeter theoretically picks up where the woofer leaves off but it doesn't sound nearly as good as letting the woofer handle more of the all important midrange. Among other things, my solution was to parallel the woofer inductor with a large capacitor that extends midrange output. I think the phase performance is better this way because the sound staging is better and the sound is more coherent. I have 30 yrs experience as a listener and 20 yrs in diy. I play musical instruments. Everything I do is always evaluated according to musicality and sound. I am very sensitive to what real music should sound like. Not trying to brag. I have owned lots of equipment over the years and still do. I would love for someone to try this crossover on their pair of Rp-160s and tell me what they think. That's the point of sharing diy, right? Do you happen to know of any software that allows a user to post drawings of crossovers? Is there a quick and easy way to do it?

I Never said the old crossover shunts everything to ground that would be a direct short. That wouldn't be very good for an amp. Hey you are welcome to your opinion, you might want to get your facts straight before posting though.

Magi, Here's a pic of the modified crossover for the RP-160m. It sounds pretty good to me at this point but I still may make some changes. The top red binding post goes to the tweeter and the top black binding post goes to the woofer. The inductor is purchased from Crites and it is 1.35mh. It makes a big difference in warmth and adds natural detail. A simple first order is used on the tweeter. I don't know what the acoustic performance is. I increased the value from 3.9uf to 4.7uf. An 8.2 ohm resistor is used to attenuate and smooth the frequency response. Without the inductor in the tweeter crossover the crossover frequency moves up so I increased the value to 4.7uf to get good transition from woofer to tweeter. I found this value to sound the best. The woofer crossover is the inductor bypassed by a 25uf capacitor with a 4.7uf capacitor across the woofer. I don't know how to draw it or I would. Of course, this is only to be used for private diy use, no commercial use is authorized.

Magi, I will try too get a picture later. I am actually still messing with it and the parts are just hanging off the back of the speakers. I have a lot of experience with sound reproduction but I am not a speaker builder. I have been messing around with these speakers for a while though.

Unhook the tweeters and try different crossovers on the woofers. Just listen to the woofers by themselves. That large cap cuts the sound too abruptly. It severely shrouds the sound of the midrange. I think part of it is that the crossover point is too low but shunting all that sound to ground is never a good idea. It's always better to add resistance to a capacitor across a woofer unless the capacitance is very small 3.3uf-4.7uf.

That is the same crossover schematic that is used in the RP-160m with presumably different values. IMO the thing that hurts the sound of these speakers is that massive cap across the woofer. It hurts midrange quality.

Hi Caldron, I have modified the Crossover of the RP-160M by ear so I am not sure how it measures. The tweeter crossover is simplified. It consists of 10 ohm resistor(10x 100 ohm metalfilms in parallel) to a 4.7uf film. The woofer is a 1.35 mh inductor to 1.5 ohm wire wound resistor connected to woofer hot. You are welcome to try it. Have you messed around with the RB-61 crossover?