DahaiTX
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Posts posted by DahaiTX
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6 hours ago, JohnA said:
One of your crossovers has a pair of diodes like a Type AA called "KLiP". I have never heard of a Cornwall with the KLiP circuit. You should make them match. One has modern capacitors, that's good, but I can't tell if the other one does. Again, make them match. Cornwalls from 1975 should have a Type B xover.
The K-77-M was used after 1979, so it is likely a repair after delivery. It is a better tweeter, so I'd upgrade the other one. The date code 137 7503 on the -P means CTS, 3rd week of 1975, so it is surely the original.
Thank you for the help, unfortunately I am a noob and I have no idea about what diodes and KLiP mean..furthermore I do not know how to properly read this diagram...
I did not take the picture properly before I screwed back the back panel, I guess I will have to open it back up and take some better pictures for my future study..
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Certainly better than the 1k asking price. Did you take or leave the stands?
The stands were too big to fit in my car but I can get them if I want...not sure if I really need them though...maybe I could use them on a different set of speakers in the future.
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What did you end up giving for them?
I paid $750, which is more than I should have, but I think it was worth it considering there is not a pair for sale anywhere near me.
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Don't put them on rollers. It'll negatively affect the bass. I'd spend the $$ on getting the woofers to match.
Thanks, what do you think about the risers in this case? I doubt there would be any difference but what does a noob know huh? =)
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I have a noob question that is unrelated, looking up the specs of my Cornwall Is I see their impedance is 4-ohms but I read it online where it says they are also 8-ohms compatible.
Does this mean I can run them with my amp setting at 8-ohms?
I also have a set of KEF 105.2 which is 8-ohms, can they be run with an amp that is set at 4-ohms?
Thanks,
Jimmy
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Thank everyones helpful tips, I was able to:
1. remove the grills and unplug all of the nails
2. Reglue the dust cover on one of the woofers
Here is how they look now:
Next steps:
I am thinking of purchasing some rollers from parts express but unsure which one to get, I am leaning towards to the 2” (or maybe 3”?)swivel casters (maybe with a couple locks)
Since I currently live in an apartment, I do not have a place to sand down and stain these cabinets, I am thinking of leaving them the way they are for the time being. I thought about wrapping them in some cloth I doubt they will look better than the current condition. Might as well start looking into finding a good wood filler to fill up those nail holes and prepare the cabinets for the future.
Here is how they look before:
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Simplyspeakers.com sells a repair glue for cones and dust caps.
Thanks, already got some elmers and glued it back.
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33 minutes ago, HDBRbuilder said:
You have two different versions of the K77 tweeter, one has the earlier Alnico magnet (round), whereas the square-magnet tweeter (K77M) has the ferrite mud slurry magnet (square). This is probably because a replacement K77M was put into the speaker at one time or another. Klipsch changed over to the K77M tweeter a few years after your speakers were made. As for the VOICE COIL dust cover on that woofer having come loose, there are two options, either buy a new (or used in good condition) replacement K33, or send the one you have off for a rebuild. The reason is that once dust has gotten inside of that VOICE COIL dust cover (which is highly likely depending upon how long that cover has been loose), then it is only a matter of time before the voice coil starts rubbing, it has not already begun rubbing. At high volumes that voice-coil rubbing will really become audibly noticeable and it generates HEAT...from that friction...possibly enough heat to actually cause the woofer cone to catch fire, which is the last thing you want to happen. You will HEAR the voice coil rubbing WAY BEFORE it gets to the point of any kind of fire happening...because it sounds like a "scratching" noise coming from the woofer and it will annoy your ears. ME???? I would just get a good condition used K33 and replace that one.
In the case of the K77 tweeter, should I look for replacements just to match up the pair?
I have also been look at the replace woofers from Bob Crites and I see there are two versions. Are they good replacements?
Our CW1526C 15 inch Cast Frame Woofers. Replacement for the Klipsch K-33E for Klipschorn, Belle Klipsch, and Cornwall. Shipping is $27.00 by FedEx in the US. (Not for the LaScala).
Model CW1526C Pair: $295.00.
Our CW1526 15 inch Stamped Steel Frame Woofers. Replacement for the Klipsch K-33E for Klipschorn, Belle Klipsch, Cornwall and LaScala. Shipping is $27.00 by UPS in the US.
Model CW1526 Pair: $250.00
This actually excites me a bit, I am looking forward to this small project of cleaning up the woofer with the bad dust cover and reglue it back into the place for the time being.
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You have two different versions of the K77 tweeter, one has the earlier Alnico magnet (round), whereas the square-magnet tweeter (K77M) has the ferrite mud slurry magnet (square). This is probably because a replacement K77M was put into the speaker at one time or another. Klipsch changed over to the K77M tweeter a few years after your speakers were made. As for the VOICE COIL dust cover on that woofer having come loose, there are two options, either buy a new (or used in good condition) replacement K33, or send the one you have off for a rebuild. The reason is that once dust has gotten inside of that VOICE COIL dust cover (which is highly likely depending upon how long that cover has been loose), then it is only a matter of time before the voice coil starts rubbing, it has not already begun rubbing. At high volumes that voice-coil rubbing will really become audibly noticeable and it generates HEAT...from that friction...possibly enough heat to actually cause the woofer cone to catch fire, which is the last thing you want to happen. You will HEAR the voice coil rubbing WAY BEFORE it gets to the point of any kind of fire happening...because it sounds like a "scratching" noise coming from the woofer and it will annoy your ears. ME???? I would just get a good condition used K33 and replace that one.
Thank you for the information! Where should I look to get a matching pair with the k-33-p like the pictures attached?
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Was just wondering what specific brand is better to use on the woofer. I have a K-33E that needs to be re-glued.
Also was wondering where can I get a new/used but working woofer like this? The reason why I am asking is because The other speaker has a K-33P which got a different look.
Would it be possible to re-cone both speakers so the woofers look the same?
Thanks,
Jimmy
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Some more pictures
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continuing from the last post
Looking at the drivers, I found the k-77s and the k-33s are different versions from each other.
Would this matter?
Also, the dust cap on k-33E is falling off..should i even bother to fix it or should i go ahead and start looking for a matching k-33p which is what the other speaker has?
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So I picked them up for $750, the serial numbers are 6N398 and 6N399. Something interesting I found out after pulling off the grill on the 6N399, it seemed to have a different version of the woofer, so I opened it up (thank god for the back panel access.) and here is what I found out:
6N398:
K-33-P
K-55-V
K-77
6N399:
K-33-E
K-55-V
K-77
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4 hours ago, pzannucci said:
I am of the same opinion.
Because they are decorators
Seems they were bought separately or a project not completed.
The current owner states he bought them from another gentleman that happened to built those custom stands. So I am guess maybe the covers were custom made as well?
Personally if I am going to get these I would most likely redo the covers and the maybe re-coat the cabinets next. I have not decided what color I want for the front of the speaker, but I'm leaning towards matte gray.
So...now the question comes down to, how much do you think I should pay assuming all the hardware works and the stands come with them?
Wait..do I even need those ugly stands?
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1 hour ago, JohnA said:
The one sure looked like one. Can't read the label. The serial numbers should be stamped on the back edges and should have a low letter in them. Ought to talk him down 3 to 3 hundred. They are not rare.
You mean a fair price would be at around 7 to 800 for these?
Thanks,
Jimmy
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Could anyone help me to confirm on these cornwalls? Are they worth getting at 1K?
Here is the owner's claim:
These are the original Cornwalls, and they were “Decorator Models,” which were sold unfinished and without grill covers.
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Hello everyone,
Could anyone confirm this is a true pair of Cornwalls? The guy wants a grand for these two and he claims these are:
"These are the original Cornwalls, and they were “Decorator Models,” which were sold unfinished and without grill covers."
Seems they were bought separately or a project not completed.
Need help on IDing some cornwalls
in Ask the Historian
Posted
I finally hooked the Cornwalls up and gave a listen, to my untrained ears there isn't much difference. I am happy to say that all of the drivers are working as well. Here is a video of them playing.