dudaindc

Those are not resistors, but "zero ohm links" - a piece of wire (of proper gauge) will do the trick.

I would check the pre-amp board output when feeding a test signal into one of the RCA input jacks. I had at least 2 boards with defective volume pots. Just a thought...

I had a similar issue and suspected that the volume control chip was dead. Once I removed it, the short was gone. After replacing the chip, the amp came back to life. Good luck with your repair.

I have two (2) RW10-D plate amps that are driving me nuts... without the schematics, I am basically stuck. For both amps, all caps have been replaced with high-quality ones and not a trace of the yellow glue. The first one works fine (i.e., responds to all commands and I get sound) but just the display does not light up. Already changed the display, cable, etc., but nothing seems to solve the issue. Measuring the voltages in the flat cable pins I found that these do not match what I measured on other similar amps... it seems that logic/polarity is reversed for most pins. The second one also works fine but I need to push the volume all the way up - it seems that the gain structure is wrong (e.g., one op-amp may not be working as it should). I thought it could be the digital volume chip but that is not easy to solder (at least for me) and I want to explore other possible causes for the issue. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance!

AWESOME - THANK YOU!

Awesome - thanks for doing that!

I will take you up on the offer - thanks! Please send me payment details. 🙂

I agree and believe this to be a Schottky, but the diagram only applies to the new boards and not to the older ones. For the latter, the diode is in series with the output of the regulator as if trying to create a 4.3V for the volume control chip. I posted pictures of both (see previous post), but I took a better one.

NGEN33R, thank you! I had the same experience with Digi-Key... nevermore! Before asking for help, I try to exhaust all resources - that is how I learn. I definitely overlooked that zener because the PCB did not have a "Z#" but a "D#" marking - while a zener is a diode, other Klipsch boards I have seen make a distinction. Besides, there are other diodes with the same marking B4: http://www.marsport.org.uk/smd/smdb.htm I was not believing my SMD "tweezer tester" which was telling me that D23 was no good. Once I removed D23 and tested it out of board, it was bad... no clamping at 2.4V at all... I guess that there is always a first time. Thanks again for your time!

Great information in this thread - thank you! I need some help regarding D23 (2005 pcb) and D30 (2006-207 pcb) in the pre-amp board. Since I do not have (and cannot find) schematics for the RW10-D/RW12-D amps, I was wondering if you happen to know the actual model for these diodes. D23 seems to be 843 (or B43) and D30 seems to be B4U. Looking at SMD codes, I cannot find any diodes that would match those markings. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

My bad - I meant RW-10D. I was not aware of an RW Series thread, but will look for it. Thanks for the info!

Hello ngen33r! Thank you for the very good and very well documented information provided here so far - very helpful indeed, I was wondering if you had any luck repairing RPW-10D amps with the typical "LCD does not work but blinks when the amp is turned off" issue. Thanks in advance.