grendel23

The RF-7 III and RC-64 III are veneeered in real wood. Mine were cherry.

I ordered stainless threaded rod and cut them from that. I don't remember the length. I found the length like MMURG suggested.

Mounting thread is M6. I made studs as that made mounting the drivers to K-302 horns much easier.

These are standard blade type quick disconnect terminals. Any hardware store will carry them along with the crimping tool to apply them.

Technician class, but will work on getting my general soon. WB9PPK

When I bought RF7-IIIs and a RC64-III I at first thought they were somewhat harsh. I played pink noise through the mains while I was at work for several days and tried them again and they were smoother. To check if the speakers were changing or my ears were becoming used to the sound, I compared the mains with the center channel. After perhaps 100 hours the RF7-IIIs were noticeably more mellow than the RC64-III. I then ran the center on pink noise for several days and then the center and the mains sounded the same. I suspect the woofers were becoming more efficient once the suspension loosened up. If I didn't have a reference to compare, I would have doubted whether the change was real, but after hearing a comparison in real time, I was convinced.

Before I bought AXI2050s I was running 3 way using DE10s with LMAHLs for high frequencies. These sounded very good. Once I put the Celestion drivers on my K-402s, I went to two way. The AXI2050s sounded better to me.

How about https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-Advanced-Sensors/CL-110?qs=9CcYk2SfNa5ANw0SBxNhyw%3D%3D?

I am running a 25wpc Pass design class A amp on K-402s with Axi2050 drivers. For horn loaded speakers I find that to be enough. The original ask was for direct radiator bass. On those speakers I have found I prefer amps with deep current reserves. Especially where the impedance dips well below 4 ohms.

I owned RF-7IIIs. I had them on an amp that would deliver 600wpc at 8 ohms. They didn't audibly distort even when the clip lights were blinking. My ears couldn't take more than a few seconds of that and the speakers wouldn't survive long either, but it was very impressive. If you listen to music without much bass at normal volume, these would be happy with 50wpc, but why get these speakers unless you can feed them properly? I would invest in a good 200wpc amp.

These appear to be using Kozmo stepped attenuators. I have used these in a couple of headphone amps and have been happy with them.

Free shipping from Kazakhstan! https://www.ebay.com/itm/175541572944?hash=item28df17d550:g:aXIAAOSwLIRjPGK0&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoGdiQqFnx5p98LHHrNw7e4ODd5EOAcZN9O9x2qDtPef3KGksRSg6n87eafRxEzDmrxHsrYUzY6ztgTXZ3F5Q7P2WjgGsjgnpBDoX9YRt2Eq8yGRVcM2acga9nvTNjOgSnex61kyGIutn3rBmp0%2BB3ZOncW2RJ8F7Z%2BEAcEMablRgxmNk65%2FfPsoz6cN8uUgi9DhTDS8cKvb1ovB%2BvPp9NZs%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9a_hdu8YQ

I assume by "phoenix connector" you mean XLR. These work fine on my XP-4080. Not all balanced gear will be happy with this, but the Xilicas are fine. https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/na2fpmf Jay

I had the same issue and just made new mounting plates.

When I had RF7IIIs, I was running a QSC PLX 1804, 600 WPC into 8 ohms. I could play Daft Punk and use all of the available power, (clip lights blinking). The speakers just kept getting louder, no breakup or noticeable distortion. I don't know if they would have held up long at this level, but it was impressive to start "Human After All" for guests at bowel loosening volume. I agree that 100 WPC is more than enough for normal listening, but once in a while...

In the plant where I work (controls engineer) we braze propane cylinders together. We apply a braze paste of copper powder in a liquid carrier to the seam. They are then put through a furnace with a reducing atmosphere at 2000F. Part of our quality control after brazing is to pressurize samples until failure. The steel fails before the brazed joint.

I want a Super Claude t-shirt! Do we have an artist in the house?

I have K-402s with AXI2050 drivers. I have tried Class D, Class AB, Class H, chip amps, tube monoblocks with push pull KT120s, 300B SET, and Pass design Class A. I am running the class A amp on the AXI2050s. To me it has the best dynamics and the most natural sound. I am running Class H (AB with a fancy power supply) on the bass.

I waited 14 weeks for mine, good luck!

I have not owned a 7705, so I can't say.

I have a AV8802a and it is an excellent unit. Good DACs and discrete buffers on the XLR outputs. Good luck with the sale.

I wired a 12v transformer in a buck configuration. If you use a variac, it has to be rated for the entire load. A bucking transformer only needs to be rated for the percentage of the voltage reduced (or boosted). So a 1KVA 120VAC load with a 12VAC buck or boost only needs a 100VA transformer. This is much cheaper than a decent variac. I used a center tapped transformer with a DPDT switch so I could switch between 6 and 12 volt reduction. If you do this, add a fuse, size the transformer conservatively and make sure there is enough cooling.

I adjust the line voltage to my amps to keep the filament and B+ voltages near design values. Not necessary, but I think a good investment for reliability and tube life.

I built a bucking transformer for my M-125 monoblocks. Mine is switchable between 6 and 12 volt drop. Works well. If you are handy with a soldering iron it could be a good route to go.

I have owned RF7-IIIs and an RC64-III and I didn't find this to be true. The RC64-III did add vocal clarity for video, but didn't sound as balanced for music as the RF7-IIIs. I listened to music in 2 channel mode.