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grendel23

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Everything posted by grendel23

  1. I have a Topping DX7s. Excellent unit, top notch for the money.
  2. I have a PLX-1804 and RF7-IIIs and can confirm that the combo has serious slam. Daft punk for the win!
  3. I have built several amps for both speakers and phones. Tube amps include Elekit TU-8600S and VTA M-125 monoblocks and KGST for electrostatic headphones. Solid state amps I have built are Pass DIY M2x, F5, and ACA, also DIY Krell KSA-5 clone for dynamic, and KGSSHV Carbon for electrostatic phones. For high efficiency speakers, the Pass M2x is outstanding but it does generate some heat. I am in the process of building a class A SIT amp. I hope it will dethrone the M2x for mids.
  4. I don' have a ST35, but I did build the M-125 monoblocks. High quality parts, good instructions and very good sound in Triode mode. Jay
  5. Crites sells a bracket that goes between a 2" CD and horn. I am using this for a 10" x 18" ZXPC horn with a BMS neo CD and it works well.
  6. As one of the "guinea pigs" I found both Claude's and Dave's systems impressive as hell. The SMWMs with K-402s were all I was expecting and more. Totally effortless and natural. His wood mid horns were also excellent. Claude's setup with 3 SH-50s in front was also great. The SH-50s gave the best imaging I have heard. Especially with his 11.2 (now 11.3) surround playing, it was superbly immersive. Once my ears stop ringing I will take inspiration from Dave and Claude and continue to improve my system. Jay
  7. Another option is a used QSC PLX or PLX-2 amp. These are overkill for power, but sound very good, are quiet, and are available for a reasonable price. They do have a fan, but the fan can be switched out for a quieter one. I have also built a TU-8600S with the Lundahl transformers. LCD-3 phones sound very good with it.
  8. I changed from Faital HF200s to 4592NDs. The Faitals were very good, but the BMS drivers are better to my ears, smoother and more natural. They do require EQ, but I have a Xilica XP-4080. I am building Quarter Pies for completely horn loaded speakers (except for my IB subs).
  9. I had a XLS-1502 for a while and sold it. It was a bit noisy on a 109 Db/watt CD, but I was able to turn the amp down and the pre up and lower the noise to acceptable levels. I sold it because I found it harsh in the treble. I was comparing it to tube and class A amps, so the comparison may not have been fair. I was using titanium diaphragm drivers (HF200) at the time which may have made the speakers more sensitive to this than the Mylar ones I use now (4592-ND). It would probably have been fine for woofer duty, but I have a QSC PLX-1804 which to my ears sounds much better.
  10. I use Cardas Quad Eutectic. I don't believe solder has a "sound", but it isn't too expensive, melts really well and leaves a nice shiny joint. I prefer it to Kester 44.
  11. I am using these as desk speakers. They work well for that purpose.
  12. I owned one of these in the 1980s. It sounded very good. I used it with Bose 901s (I was young). Half the transistors had already been replaced when I bought it. I sold it before it had a chance to combust.
  13. I bought my 4592ND-8's from https://www.lean-business.co.uk/. They were quite a bit cheaper than Thomann and were very good to work with.
  14. I have one of these. It has a good, but not great amp, but a very good DAC. Very clean and neutral. $330 is a steal.
  15. My better headphones, LCD-3, HD-800s, and especially Stax are more accurate and neutral, but for slam and presence, my speaker setup rules. I am using a large Infinite Baffle sub system (4 18" in 2 manifolds) below 40Hz, RF-7IIIs from 40Hz to 400Hz (until I get around to finishing my Quarter Pies) and ZXPC 10" x 18" horns with HF200 drivers above 400Hz. I have a QSC PLX-1804 on the RF-7IIIs and a DIY First Watt F5 on the horns, and 700 watts for each sub driver. Sounds pretty good and will peel paint. If you haven't heard an IB sub, you should try to. Mine is flat to 12Hz, super low distortion and very high output.
  16. Before I started chasing decent speakers etc, I went down the rabbit hole of high end headphones and amps. The best I have is Stax SR-007a phones with a KGSSHV Carbon amp. This combo is amazing, but is stupid expensive. For a reasonable price, the Drop Sennheiser HD-6XX are a deal at $220. That and one of the THX amps, Drop, Monoprice, or SMSL makes a great system for not too much cash. I have the Monoprice amp, and it compares well with my Elekit TU-8600 which cost 5 times as much.
  17. David, I have RF7-IIIs and a RC-64III. I also have an XPA-5 gen 2. I bought the gen 2 because I could get one in great condition for $700 less than the gen 3 would have cost. I am running a Marantz AV8802a pre-pro over XLR cables. The Emotiva is excellent for HT duty. The sound is slightly polite, which IMO is a benefit for movies. I have other amps I prefer for music, but if I could only have one amp, I would be happy with the XPA-5.
  18. I am running the 10 x 18 ZXPC horns with HF200s. I am using RF-7 IIIs for bass until I get my Quarter Pies done. I have a XP-4080, a PLX-1804 for bass and a DIY First Watt F5 for highs running 2 way. This setup sounds much better than the RF-7s, but I haven't been able to compare it to other speakers. I am thinking of getting BMS 4592ND coaxes, but I don't know if the improvement is worth the $1000.
  19. I have RF-7 iii's and an RC-64 iii in a room about the size of yours, sounds great. These don't need a sub for music, but I would recommend one for movies. I have 2 large infinite baffle subs which match the low distortion, high output qualities of the RF-7 iii's.
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