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Dave S

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Everything posted by Dave S

  1. RVDIII I am using the 8 ohm version of that speaker. I chose this particular speaker because it provided a good platform for the cabinet size I was looking to build. It could dig a bit deeper than the stock K22 or Eminence Delta Pro 12. Using the specifications provided by the speaker manufacturer, you can calculate cabinet size needed to tune it for frequency response. Sealed vs ported designs require different cabinet volume. I knew I wanted a bit larger cabinet than the stock Heresy to allow me a bit lower bass response. I also couldn't go with a speaker as large as a Cornwall because my room furniture would not accommodate them. So I think of these as baby Cornwalls or Heresy Plus' . So far I am very pleased with the results. Now that the speakers are fully burned in , they sound very good. And despite what others may say about speaker wire, High quality wire does make a difference in sound. I went from some 12 gauge zip wire to some 12 gauge OFC silver tinned wire and there was a definite difference in clarity.
  2. Menlo Bob, they are tuned to 45 hz with a 4 inch port 4 inches long. The crossovers are Heresy 2 by Bob Crites.
  3. Update on the speakers after about 15 hours of use. The biggest improvement seems to be the soundstage has opened up and fills the room much better now. My wife came in last night while I was playing some music and she asked what I did to make them sound so much better. Just played them. Anyone who has the Pugh/Taylor Project albums, that is a great test of how a trombone should sound through your speakers. I was blown away on how real and present the horns sounded. I played trombone for many years and know what they sound like and I swear if I was blindfolded, I would have said it was a live performance just feet away from me. As PWK said, the test of a speaker is how well they make the impossible task of reproducing a live performance sound.
  4. Thanks avguytx. You did a very impressive job on your Belle Clones. I love the ribbon mahogany. And finallygotmyheresi, thank you for your kind words. The midhorn opening trim is because I changed plans and had to fill in the cut out I did for the stock K53 K701 horn flange when I switched to the K 700 rear mount horn. It worked out but I created more work for myself. I still have to paint the screw heads bronze to match Dave A's MAHL lenses that I painted satin bronze. Still debating if I should darken in his engraved trim lines. The devil is in the details. 😉
  5. Thank you. External dimensions are 16 x 16 x 29.5 inches. Internals are 14.5 wide x 14 deep x 28 inches. So far, I am quite happy with the build and the drivers chosen. I have had a lot of different speakers in my time and these are the best sounding so far. I realize these are not Klipsch speakers but do have Klipsch designed crossovers and contain the K 700 horns so some of you probably take offence that I called them Heresy 2 plus. I should rather call them Klipsch inspired speakers and an homage to PWK, who I feel is a true pioneer in his field.
  6. I only have a couple hours of play on the speakers but what I have noticed so far is the A-55 G squawkers are more detailed and and natural sounding with both Male and female voices compared to the K53s. I need more time for critical listening and I will be the first to admit I am terrible at describing what I hear. The DE10 tweeters are less harsh and bright than the K76 with titanium diaphragms. Very easy on the ears and non fatiguing. But again subtle changes may occur after more break in. Whether or not you believe in speaker break in vs your own perception. I personally believe in component break in. So far, I like what I hear. Lots of bass punch, and quite detailed midrange. I will report more after more time with them.
  7. Yesterday I finally finished the built. I will show a few pictures of the veneered cab and the drivers I selected. Went with an A-55G squawker from Bob Crites on a 700 horn that I covered with Dynamat. Now to find some time to listen to them.
  8. I have been reading about this topic for a few weeks now and I will admit I am no expert on the subject but do read opinions of those who claim to be. 🙂 Long story short, what I have gathered is as long as you do not throttle the orifice of the horn you are good. The exit diameter of the A-55 G seems to be 11/16 of an inch which is the same as the entry diameter of the Klipsch K 700 and K 701 horns. The 701 horns used with the K 53 driver has a reducer cone which fits around the phase plug of the driver so first 1.5 inch of the horn is actually more a part of the driver design. The 700 horns are exactly the same dimension once you get past the rear 1.5 inch of the horn. The concern about that reduction of diameter and then opening up again is that it may introduce distortion. It would seem that if your adaptor has a smooth transition in diameter to your horn, all should be good.
  9. I agree, Tom. The re-veneering is beyond most do it yourselfers. I have a full woodworking shop as it is one of my hobbies building cabinets and furniture and this speaker cab repair is not easy. As he said how can I get it back to original condition, I simply said what I would do. It will never look like original unless it is recovered in new veneer. Also it is not necessary to remove the old veneer to recover it. But the old finish has to be removed to present a clean fresh surface to assure the glue adheres properly.
  10. I think Mark has the best solution. Unfortunately there is no easy repair to restore your speaker cab to like new condition without first restoring the sharp edges of the corner with something like Bondo and then re-veneering the affected cabinet sides. Then applying a stain and finish to try to match the original which will not be easy. IF you could live with a less than perfect repair, a professional cabinet maker could cut out the damaged corner and fill in with wood or Bondo and patch in some veneer in just the corner. Properly done it should not be noticeable from a distance. Personally, if it were mine I would fill in with Bondo, and re-veneer the side, top and edges with a walnut veneer of similar grain pattern.
  11. Hey thanks. Looks like it should work fine then with the K701 horns.
  12. Thanks for the advice, Moray. I had read about the DynaMat damping material but not about the other things you mention. Very interesting.
  13. The stock K 53 K squawker is a good midrange speaker but according to what I have read here on the Klipsch Audio Community forums and speaking to Bob Crites there are probably better options for improvement. Bob has assured me that the A-55G mid driver would be a suitable compatible replacement for the K 53 driver offering better performance. The sticking point is the horn. As you know the stock horn/lens for the K 53 is the K 701 4 bolt. There are bolt on flange adaptors that could adapt the K 701 horn to accept the 1 3/8 x18 threaded nose of the A-55G but anyone who has looked down the throat of the K 701 horn will notice that the throat opening is flared to accept the conical phase plug of the K 53 driver and throat opening tapers to a 5/8 inch opening before the horn continues to open toward the front. Bob was not able to answer my question of how this would affect performance of the A-55G or any other driver with a similar threaded mount. Bob also mentioned that he has never tried this because it probably would not fit in a standard Heresy cabinet as the mounting depth would be longer than the stock squawkers so there would be no reason for him to even attempt it. My cabinets are not stock Heresy type and I have plenty of depth for a longer horn. I could buy a standard G700 horn that would accept the threaded driver but I am just curious if anyone has an opinion of what the K 701's tapered restricted throat opening might do to the performance of a threaded driver.
  14. I am also looking for suitable grill cloth for my build. Check out www.speakerbuilder.com for their options. They do have some cane designs and more colors than many other suppliers I have seen.
  15. Yesterday I installed the new MAHL tweeter lenses with B&C DE10 drivers I got from Dave A. I have only had a chance to listen to a couple LP's and CD's so they are probably not fully run in yet but initial results are very good. They replace the stock Klipsch K 76 horns with upgraded titanium diaphragms from Bob Crites. Granted my old ears cannot hear the full range of either driver but what I could hear is the DE10s sounded a bit less intense and bright. Very nice full range which seemed to my ears to enhance the stock K53 mids a bit more. A bit less sibilance with female vocalists on both CDs and LPs. Dave did a beautiful job of machining the large MAHLs and they fit exactly like the stock K76 horns. Dave was also very helpful with his advice and very prompt shipping. I am also grateful to this group for all of the information I gleaned from the various articles from members. I would never have known about these upgrades without this group.
  16. Hi All, had an interesting experience that I am sure many of you have gone through but I thought it might be worth mentioning here for those of your who have mentioned that their speakers, in particular here, the Heresys, don't have much bass. I moved my music listening room and now share it in my living room. My wife thought it might be nice if we shared the music in a more common area to both of us. And she gained a "Woman Cave or She Shed" in the process that was my listening room. Clever devils those wife's. LOL At any rate, the living room is about 17 ft x 17 ft by 10 high. Yes, the infamous square room syndrome. The problems of a square listening room are real. The standing wave issue tends to suck the bass into a black hole. I tried various normal speaker positions and there was literally no bass response. I went on line to see how the "experts" handled it and all of their suggestions did not work, except for one. A young man suggested forgetting about speaker placement symmetry and put the speakers on the diagonal into one of the corners. Left channel speaker is about three feet to the left of the corner and the right channel speaker is about 5 feet to the right. They are roughly 6 feet apart from each other. Because of existing furniture I also had limitations on speaker placement. The absent bass came back and the room sounded alive again. I did put a corner trap in the opposing corner which helped a bit as well. I remember Claude's account of his Super Heresy's in his bedroom and the great bass response he was getting. This really shows that the room is so important and will make or break your listening experience. So for those who claim the Heresy speakers have no bass, maybe it is simply your room geometry and your speaker placement.
  17. I think that might look kinda pucked up.
  18. As much as I hate to see the hockey puck risers go, I did cut and glue up some slanted risers for the project shown here. I do have a question concerning damping material used by Klipsch in the Heresy 3 and others. It appears that the motor board and the rear baffle have a black textured coating that almost resembles auto undercoating or bed liner. Is this done to dampen vibration or is it merely cosmetic? I am thinking I will apply a material like Dyna mat on the inside of the rear baffle and the inside of the motor board. Along with some extra internal bracing the Dynamat might provide some damping and vibration control? I will also cut pieces of the matt for the squawker horn as well. I also plan to put the convoluted foam on internal wall surfaces.
  19. Today I received the convoluted foam and some dyna mat to treat the speaker cabs and the horns. I also cut out and glued up my slanted risers so I will be retiring the hockey pucks. So waiting for the walnut veneer to arrive but have lots of things to do before I can apply the veneer anyway. It is too cold in my work shop to do veneer work right now anyway but it will be warming up here soon. I hope. So in the mean time I will apply internal foam and see how things sound after that. Thanks Cool Canuck for the info and I am very pleased to hear your project is so successful. I am glad I found this group of like minded guys that are still playing with toys. 😉
  20. I think CCM pucks are reputed to have better harmonic resonance. So good choice! Actually a source who wishes to remain anonymous told me the Slovenian factory makes all of the pucks including CCM and Bauer branded ones. Who knows.
  21. Thanks CoolCanuck. I like tubes. I like turntables and playing LPs. Don't call them vinyls. LOL But I am not an audiophile. I am a hacker that loves listening to good music. I love trying to make a particular piece of equipment sound better. My turntable is modded to the point that is sounds pretty decent. Next is getting the speakers to the point I like them. That is part of the fun for me at 67 years old, my hearing is not what it used to be. Too much loud music and not using hearing protection around wood working equipment. Had I to do it over I would have. But I still love listening to rock and roll and pop music from the 60's 70's 80's. I built my first speakers when I was in high school. I took them to college and thought they sounded pretty OK but then had a chance to AB them against some others in a local HI FI shop. They really sucked. LOL Just goes to show that you can used to listening to bad equipment and not know the difference. Until that is you can directly compare them to something else. Which gets me to my point of how your brain can become accustomed to a particular sound and you think those speakers or other piece of equipment is starting to break in and sound better. Sometimes it is your own brain that is changing what you are hearing. On the other hand run in or break in of stereo equipment is a real thing. Speakers definitely do require a break in period just as phono cartridges and vacuum tubes. You can tell when you keep comparing against another speaker or cartridge or whatever that you use as a given standard. Just as my new Klipsch Heresy 2 plus's are starting to loosen up. Woofers in particular need time for the cone suspensions to loosen up and perform. I also think new crossover components need burn in time. Some will say I'm crazy and they might be right but I think all electronics need time to settle for best performance. Man this has gotten long. Sorry. I just want to thank those in this group who have answered questions for me and been very helpful. I have a lot to learn and this group obviously has some very smart folks that I can learn from. Keep on keepin on.
  22. Simplyspeakers.com sells a repair glue for cones and dust caps.
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