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Everything posted by danalog02

  1. I don't have any crossovers at all, parts or whole.
  2. Hi. I've used a multimeter on both midranges and the one tweeter I have and all have continuity between terminals. The tweeter measured at about 6.5 ohms and the mids measured 8 ohms each, so I have no reason to suspect a problem with any of them at the moment. I think I can still wrangle EV 1823m diaphragms if I need to. Thanks for the link, though.
  3. I've already been talking with Jim, and his crossovers are AL, which from my research are a bit cost prohibitive to convert to AA. He also wants to sell driver pairs, which I don't need, so I don't want to break up his sales. @jimjimbo has been extremely helpful and gracious in looking out for me so far.
  4. If anyone is interested, I could sweeten a crossover network deal with a couple of items: A Hidizs AP80 digital audio player (in great shape with original rubbery case and optional leather case and I'll throw in a 128gb micro SD card) - https://www.hidizs.net/products/ap80 and/or a Cambridge Audio DAC Magic XS portable USB DAC (in like new condition, only used at my office) - https://www.cambridgeaudio.com/usa/en/products/hifi-and-home-cinema/dacmagic-xs
  5. Klipsch just posted on Facebook that the pilgrimage has been cancelled for this year.
  6. This is a hilarious Ted Talk by James Veitch about replying to spam email:
  7. What can I say? I come by it honestly. It's a good, all-purpose word. I'll probably skip the center channel and just get my dad a pair of RP-600m's as it seems the price has inexplicably gone up. Import duties I'm assuming?
  8. You could always use the speaker-level inputs on a subwoofer. Run your left and right speaker outputs from your main amplifier or receiver to the "high level input" section of your subwoofer, set your crossover point at the sub (probably around 80 Hz), then use the speaker-level "high level" outputs to go to your left and right speakers. Just use some high quality speaker cables (Monoprice and Amazon Basics both have good quality, oxygen-free cables for not much) to make as short runs as possible, leaving some slack to move things around.
  9. How do you like the Dayton tweeter as compared to a K-77-M? I'm restoring a pair of Speakerlab K's and I'm having to piece together some missing stuff, one of which is a missing tweeter. I'd love your input. You do some amazing work.
  10. Ask him if he needs some new Passovers for his speakers.
  11. I mean, it is getting close to Easter and all.
  12. That's a bit more than I'm looking to spend although I've read they're really nice. I only need one tweeter, so I'll understand if you only sell pairs. I need 1 M version (square magnet).
  13. What do you need to get out of them? I was really only looking to get a 2nd K-77-M. I still have to find a pair of crossovers and buy a new pair of 15's too.
  14. I don't know anything about the 2404. How do they compare to the K-77-M and can they be worked into an AA network without too much trouble?
  15. Thanks. Yes, I know how to solder and have a nice variable temp iron. I don't have any crossovers at all to modify. Starting from scratch. That's why I'm looking for an old pair of AA's or something easily modified into AA's.
  16. Thanks for the info. I don't have a lot of experience building electronics from schematics, and it seems like the parts themselves could end up costing as much or more than the finished product. I would need some step by step YouTube videos to pull it off I think.
  17. Hello all! I'm working on a rebuild project for my Speakerlab K horns (detailed over in Technical/Modifications) and many of you have been very helpful with insight and advice. I need a few pieces to continue my build and I'm hoping y'all might have some extra stuff laying around you'd be willing to make a deal on. I need one K-77-M or EV T-35 square magnet tweeter and a pair of AA crossovers or something that can be easily modified into AA-style. I plan to keep these fairly old-school (no Crites tweeters for now). Shipping would be to Murfreesboro, TN 37128. Thank you!
  18. I just looked online and found that the 1823M mids were available in 8 ohm, so that's my guess. Is the tweeter measuring 6.5 ohms acceptable? I may check it again. Do I need to get a pair of 8 ohm woofers to match (the Speakerlab one I damaged is a 4 ohm) or does that just get sorted out at the crossover? I'm unclear on this. Do driver impedances need to match or can you use different ones together?
  19. It's still very much a possibility. Existing woofer functionality and funds will determine what I'm able to do.
  20. If any of you have looked at my other main post, I'm beginning to restore a pair of Speakerlab K horns and have been asking for advice. Since my new digital multi-meter came in yesterday, I decided to go out to the garage to test my existing drivers and tweeter to check for continuity and measure impedance. Tweeter - K-77-M or equivalent (x1) - PASS (measuring about 6.5 ohms (is that right?)) Midrange horn drivers (x2) - EV 1823M - PASS (measuring about 8 ohms each) Woofer - here's where I ran into trouble. One is gone, pulled for some project of @rigma's. The other one has been safely secured in its bass bin since the 70's. When I say secured, I mean SECURED. It was overbuilt in the way of German cars, tanks and aircraft. I believe had these been on the Titanic, you could have pulled them from the sunken wreckage and there's a good chance they would play once drained. I had to remove at least 15 screws that were completely coated in thick silicone and tightened into threaded inserts by scraping them clean, one by one. Then I had to use a razor to cut through even more silicone and get a small pry bar to separate the "access panel" from the bin. That's where I messed up. I should have known. The speaker cable going to the driver had also been still securely soldered to the driver inside, which pulled the little soldering tabs loose from the speaker. Damn. After removing 3 wingnuts, 1 3/4" nut and two wood screws securing the motor board to the cabinet (then prying it loose with said pry bar), the speaker came out. It is a Speakerlab W1500D 4-ohm woofer and seems to be in OK shape (minus my screwing up the connecting tabs). I was able to test it by connecting the multi-meter probes to the little wires coming off the woofer. It does PASS continuity and looks to be reading 4.5 ohms(?) My hands were a little shaky by this point. So, CAN the driver be repaired? Is it WORTH being repaired and finding a similar K-33 or equivalent? How much money did @rigma spend on sealants in 1970-whatever and what is that in today's dollars? These and other questions linger. The line to take shots at me forms to your left. The line for helpful comments, on your right. Thanks!
  21. danalog02


    What would you need to get out of the remaining woofer, shipped to Murfreesboro, TN 37128? I'm about to find out if the sealed k horn bass bin I have has an original K-33 in it.
  22. I love EQ and I've never understood the purist position that one must always use a "direct" mode or bypass all equalization. Avoid the MEGABASS button, sure, and if it's a crappy EQ (especially graphic EQ, I much prefer parametric) skip it, but not all EQ is bad. I do wish more audio equipment had multiple parametric EQ adjustments, not just a low and high shelving, but a low, low mid, mid high, and high with sweepable frequencies and adjustable Q. Sometimes you have to compensate for a room, sometimes you can compensate a bit for a speaker, or even just a recording that's maybe a bit harsh or shrill. I prefer subtractive EQ to additive, though. Being able to pull problem frequencies is usually better than just boosting everything else in my experience. You deal less with weird phasing issues, overdriving downstream components, or raising the noise floor.
  23. Fair enough. I have the Speakerlab H-350 horns which are cast aluminum and a clone of the K400 (see pic). How much baffle (ballparking thickness and dimensions) is necessary around the mouth of the horn to get the necessary effect before reaching diminishing returns? I'm really wanting the top of the K to be minimalist in proportions.
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