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Onebean

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  1. Nice follow up Gary. Since my return to this audio hobby, I have begun to be much more careful with my ears. My father suffers from hearing loss due to military service, and working in a factory before anyone cared about PPE (personal protection equipment). The last thing I want is to be a buzz kill. I just want to make sure I get to enjoy this hobby for many years to come, so I roll the volume back a bit.
  2. Heck, if you're building all of them, it only seems right to run them in and make sure they are 100% before giving them back to your friend. That will also give you a chance to demo them in your system. I have experience with Bottlehead, and that would be the first thing I would try. I've ready good things about the Elekit and the Amp Camp amp, so they would each get some demo time. There's probably not a bad choice in the bunch, but at least one should hit the sweet spot. Keep us posted, I'm very curious which ones you like the best.
  3. Very cool Matt. I always enjoy your videos.
  4. Hi Fido, I'll throw out another option. Vintage tube gear is typically always available, and finding a nice piece that has been restored electrically can offer a piece of equipment ready for another 20-30 years of use. Quite often these restored integrated and stand alone amps can be bought for well under $1000. I assume you could use the preamp in your McIntosh 252, and use a vintage stand alone amp with great success. That gives you tube preamp and tube amp. It looks like the Forte 1's are 98 db sensitive, so with 1 watt of power, they will play 98 db loud at 1 meter from the speaker. We know that to increase the sound pressure level 3 db, you have to double the power. So in your case, you can go to 101 db with 2 watts. That's quickly approaching ear splitting sound pressure levels. This math tells us that a 100 watt per channel amp won't even use 10% of it's power. This high speaker sensitivity opens the door to a world of wonderful amps using EL84, 300B, and 2A3 tubes. Amps using these power tubes typically deliver 3-12 watts, and for my mileage, are some of the best watts I've ever heard. They work terrific for me using 90 db sensitive speakers, playing everything from Sonny Rollins to Black Sabbath. Deep bass, detailed but smooth highs, and midrange that is very real. I often say I can hear the wetness in Freddy King's voice. Living in SoCal should offer you quite a few options for demoing these types of amps, and if you buy one at a fair price and don't like it, they are typically easy to sell for little or no loss. Good luck with your journey. Onebean
  5. And I was concerned the "suggest a capacitor" would cause an uproar. Tom and Jim, thank you for your answers, and sharing your knowledge and passion. I think I will move forward with ordering the Sonicaps, and sort out the woofer selection as I'm getting closer on the cabinet build. On a side note- I was watching my notifications, and did not see anything. I thought I would find this post in the form and double check it. When I opened it, I found there had been all this activity I was unaware of. Is there a setting I need to adjust to get my bell to notify me?
  6. John, I was lead to believe it was a drop in replacement for the K-33-E. Is there a published cross over adjustment for replacing the K-33-E with the Kappa 15C? I don't have the tools, skill, or knowledge to be designing cross overs. One of my K-33-E speakers has a voice coil rub. It was recommended to me, to swap them both for the Kappa 15C, versus sending the one bad K-33-E out for repair, and then not having the speakers match anymore. I'm a newbie to Klipsch, so I'll take all the help I can get.
  7. Can anyone here point me to an accurate Cornwall B-2 schematic? I search Google, but it's showing my quite a few different schematics. The Russian PIO caps take a while to get here, so I'd like to get some ordered this week.
  8. In my first post here, I mentioned my upcoming Cornwall cabinet build. It was mentioned I should update the caps in the cross over, and I'm no stranger to this work. I've recapped the 4 Pioneer CS-88's I have in my work shop with Dayton films, and my KLH Sixes in my listening room with Russian surplus PP. Cap selection is a touchy subject, and my intention isn't to stir the pot. I only ask to get feedback from your personal experience. I read a lot about the Crites cross over upgrades, and I see he uses Sonicaps in his kits. I also see Klipsch used oil filled caps in their original designs. This leaves me flip flopping between buying the Crites, and just recapping the cross overs with Russian surplus paper in oil capacitors. I will be using my Bottlehead 2A3 Paramours, and maybe rotate in one of my vintage EL84 amps. I'm concerned the Sonicaps will lean toward harsh. Would the Russian PIO caps offer some softening of the horns? Here are the components I'm working with. K-33-E woofers- I'll probably swap these for Eminence Kappa 15C right out of the gate. K-51-V mids K-77-M tweeters B-2 crossovers
  9. Thanks for the warm welcome everyone. I can't wait to start making some sawdust.
  10. I had a bout with cancer about 12 years ago, and I only have one kidney now.
  11. I couldn't find a cart fast enough when I saw them. I think regular price was near $65 a sheet. They were in the scratch and dent pile for a reason, but they should work great for me.
  12. It's called Tigerply. It's got 11 plys with red oak veneer on one side, and maple veneer on the other side, so 13 plys total. The plys look nice and tight, like baltic birch cabinet plywood. Fingers crossed that I don't saw into it and find a bunch of voids. I pulled it out of the scratch and dent pile at Menards today, for $20 a sheet. I can cut off the bad edges easy, and maple veneer looks good. One sheet has a bad spot on the oak veneer side, but I'll just put it to the inside.
  13. Pictures to come. The components are still in transit to me. I do have 2 sheets of plywood in the back of my truck, but they aren't much fun to look at. I'm also waiting to take delivery of a track saw I ordered last week. I hope that simplifies the cabinet construction. Once the components arrive, I'll start a build thread.
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