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Lbk

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Everything posted by Lbk

  1. Ok When I get back to it I will leave it out. Going to order subs tomorrow and finish boxes this weekend. Thanks for all the help!
  2. Far from an expect but I think Carl is right, makes sense to me anyway. Can't get back to these till the weekend so I will do some more research before I make my final decision. If find anything significant I will post.
  3. Charts from lil Mike but doesn't state with or without quiet liner. (Skimmed over thread, 50 some pages long) Have to assume test was with liner? Home depot has a similar cotton duct liner cheaper and in a smaller quantity. Can't hurt so I think I will try it, it's only about 13 bucks. Yes, the thread with pic lists quiet liner on building materials sheet.
  4. A plan on avs forum (reed exodus anarchy 25hz tapped horn) use quiet liner in all corners, even baffles. Curious, how many of you guys used fill in your build?
  5. Is there an alternative to quiet liner, I can only find larger rolls. Home depot sell's cotton duct liner by frost King in smaller amounts, would that work. Could I use polyfill? Would rather get offline so I can get these boxes done, thanks.
  6. Never done any veneer work except for edge work and yes it is beautiful when done correctly. Maybe this year I will give it a try. I build one box ( 4 sides and a bottom panel) and hope to get the baffle panels in tomorrow. I bought 2 cheap corner clamps from harbor freight (3.99 each) to hold a corner of the box and used a spade bit to drill pocket joints. (No jig) Worked ok but I bought a single hole pocket jig today to put together the other box. I plan on using a couple of pocket joints on each baffel panel. One on bottom front and one on top back of each panel. This should hold panels in straight I hope. For the last 20 1/8 by 30 inch panel I am going to really on pl premium to hold it in place. Only place I can put in screws without them being scene would be the on bottom of the box. Not sure how much that will help but might do it anyway. Think the pl premium will hold? So pl premium should hold. For alinement pins I am going to use 1 inch finishing nails. Use the nails ss a drill bit going down about 3/4 of an inch, point end towards drill. Use drill as a stop, once in release nail from drill where point end sticks up. Pl premium all end panels and carefully set last panel and aline. Clamp weight and make sure last panel s completely down as far as it can go.
  7. Never done any veneer work except for edge work and yes it is beautiful when done correctly. Maybe this year I will give it a try. I build one box ( 4 sides and a bottom panel) and hope to get the baffle panels in tomorrow. I bought 2 cheap corner clamps from harbor freight (3.99 each) to hold a corner of the box and used a spade bit to drill pocket joints. (No jig) Worked ok but I bought a single hole pocket jig today to put together the other box. I plan on using a couple of pocket joints on each baffel panel. One on bottom front and one on top back of each panel. This should hold panels in straight I hope. For the last 20 1/8 by 30 inch panel I am going to really on pl premium to hold it in place. Only place I can put in screws without them being scene would be the on bottom of the box. Not sure how much that will help but might do it anyway. Think the pl premium will hold, is that what you did?
  8. Build quite a few car sub boxes, bondo wrap it in poly fill then a colored vinyl. Pocket hole joints are new for me, lots to learn. Trying to build a small wood shop on a budget. So far I have bought a craftsman table saw, radial arm saw, miter saw, router with small table and cheap drill press. Hope to get it all set up this month so I can experiment with building horns and folded horn subs.
  9. I used pocket joints and pl premium to put box together. It's was a little tricky (for me away) I did not want to run screws from outside of the box to inside and mess up the walnut veneer. Pl premium to fill gaps is what I was thinking, wasn't sure if it would throw off specs. Didn't think about the flashlight check, good idea. Hope to cut and install internals this weekend, glad I posted thanks for all the help.
  10. Yes dimensions and points id.but without cutting minor angles there would be small gap at baffle panel connection. This would create a very slight change in panel lengths. Mouth panel baffle would overhang outside box slightly. Not trying to be difficult just want to get it right. Thanks!
  11. Probably a minor question but do I need to be concerned about the baffle panel angles. Not on plans, ( that I can see) I can easily figure out. Does cutting baffle panel angles change length of these enough to be.worried about? Hope this makes sense, thanks.
  12. Build the outside with the walnut veneered panels. Just picked up a some .5 BB plywood for inside. I will double check all internal measurements/panels. Anybody build one of these, I have a mouth panel question.
  13. Yes sorry veneered plywood, plywood looks to be quality and that's why I was considering using it, good points.
  14. Got some free 20 1/8 by 53 by 11/16 walnut veneer panels with 1.25 solid walnut edges off craigslist. Started cutting outside panels for 2 exodus anarchy subwoofers today. Would it be safe to use these for the inside panels? Plans state 1/2 inch panels these are 3/16 over. There are 5 inside panels so that's 15/16 total. Do I need to buy some 1/2 plywood for inside panels or can the over sized walnut panels be use safely. Thanks!
  15. If switch shorts out the fuse/relay should blow in fuse box preventing a fire. If you have a good/quick. main. crew I would let them do it. It's not hard to do yourself just make sure you remove fuse/trip relay so you don't get shocked. Google search on how to replace light switch should show you what you are getting into. A good replacement switch at HD should run about 7 bucks. I would take out old switch and take it with you to make sure you get the correct switch. Don't forgot the fuse/relay will turn off more than the one switch and could affect memory ect. on other devices. Good luck!
  16. Mods accidently double posted please delete, thanks.
  17. Looked over at Avs, during my short search I couldn't find a top end freq but was described as more of a mid woofer? One search stated it would go up to 3500hz, didn't sound right since I read tapped horns have a narrow freq band. 80 hz should work fine. Could these be tuned to merge well with my front f 20, will be used mostly for music. I live in Atlanta, thanks.
  18. Anyone know true freq range of exodus anarchy sub? Thinking of building 2 to fill in back lower end of 2 side and 2 rear surounds. (Surrounds are 2 way) Front end is an f20, thanks.
  19. Anyone know true freq range of exodus anarchy sub? Thinking of building 2 to fill in back lower end of 2 side and 2 rear surounds. (2 way) Front end is an f20, thanks.
  20. Would possible an exodus anarchy sub work? Narrow enough to fit flat with doghouse on top. (7.5inches wide) Been looking at building 2 to supplement some 2 way surround speakers I am building.
  21. I seem to remember other members having this issue, you might need to put a spacer under speaker. If members with more experience with a kappa c don't response here you might want do a separate post. I use one in my DIY center but it's front mounted, good luck. ,
  22. You forgot to sign the brace o magic, I like the idea of dating it. I have 2 SW 12's great for HT. I love the SW 12's cabinet, stripped and strained mine to match my chorus speakers. Been looking st CLS, ect. for a cheap pair of heavy duty subs for upgrade. Car subs come up cheap sometimes on for sale sites. Good luck with your project!
  23. I have stripped a black academy and sw12 sub with good results. If you look at the pic above notice how the grain stands out because of the old paint. Imho the highlight looks great when oiled or polyurethaned. You can try steel wool or sand paper but you still have to match the paint. In my experience this is hard to do without redoing the entire cabinet.
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