Lbk

Going to put an f 20 sub up front centered on an 11ft wall, room is 11 by 17 by 8 ft. Which direction should I point the mouth opening, towards the near wall or into the room. If pointed towards near wall I could give it up to a 6 inch clearance, thanks.

Guessing the guys is irresponsible, has been been posted for 10 days. If your really interestred maybe worth to keep trying, price is not to bad. Not affiliated with seller. Just checked ad he has a text phone number that you could try, good luck!

Chorus I's listed in electronics Woodstock ga. 650.00

You have a new PM

Send you a PM. There are some guys here that could help/lead you in the right direction if your interested.

Found it klipsch Quartet xover all orginal, date on mounting plate is from 1989. I have never used it I bought off ebay with a k 61 horn I needed, package deal. This has a T11A autotransformer which only has 3 taps. ( 0-1-3) Let me know if your interested. Curious, what are you building? Thanks Larry in Atlanta ga.

Got it, sent a reply. Will check and let you know first thing in the morning.

I think I have a Quarter xover, I will check tomorrow and let you know. Where are you located?

Look for - small tear in chorusII radiator - in technical/mods or do a search for same. Some goods ideas on how to fix the tear.

Carl - Maynard - thanks for your help, think I will take your advice and pass.

I'll try but every since my update (I didn't want) I can't find my clipboard. It's listed in Atlanta craigslist under electronics.

It's on craigslist Atlanta, says it works (all tubes light up) but starchy sound. Claims it can be cleaned professional for 50 bucks. ( yea right) The cabinet it comes in is nice but I have no use for it. Also has a turn table. I thinking it might be something I to pass on but could it run a pair of chorus II's? Thanks! I

Nice looking stromberg Carlson rp 726mp console, 95 bucks. Is this worth buying for the tube amp, thanks.

Been listening for a week now and the sonicaps are definitely crisper, cleaner and a little more detailed.( They seemed to have opened up some) I will try to get the sonicaps in the other speaker this weekend and see what happens sound wise.

Rick if still have and want to get rid of the 18's I will take them. I can come anytime but would like to see the Meh's with the ports cut. Thanks, send me a PM if you like.

All good ideas, common bond seems to be PVA glue. Choose of material seems to vary, dollar bill looks interesting just wondering if it will absorb glue. (Is that even necessary) In my haste (did't plan it that way) I did a repair with stuff mentioned above but no actual patch just glue. So I think I will put a small patch on rear once I decide which material to use. Flexible, piston didn't look at that way but I think your right. I was thinking vibration so flexible glue would have been important. Dave appreciate your response had I not got impatien definitely would have try it. I have to order some stuff from PE so think I will get bottle to have and experiment with.

Quick research Titrbound, Elmer's, Etc. are a PVA glue and the most common wood glue. (usually yellow in color) Water and mildew resistant, stays flexible, does not affect paper but does soak into it. I think my repair will work but now have that stupid small black stop on radiator. For professional's like dave I think his suggestion would work well and be quick and easy. The PVA method for diyers seems to be a good alternative. Cheap, easy and not too time consuming. Hopefully this post will help someone else down the road, Do your research and don't be in a hurry.

Dave just thought you might have some experience with - different grades- since you do speaker work. Thanks Read about that method but was worried about flexible and longative. Should done more research but this was an unexpected repair and I'd been without music for almost a week. I have a couple old speakers think I'll experiment just out of curious. Thanks!

Listened this morning and the sonicaps seem to be slightly cleaner. This could because of a bad solder job and not Dayton audio caps, overall no major difference. Will have to put in other sonicaps and see that cleans up the right speaker a little.

You may be right (Hope not) but I've been without music for almost a week and wanted to get it fixed. Amazon and others sell it and price ranges from around 8 bucks to 25. (Pro vs Regular, snake oil ?) I plan on ordering some to have around, amazon is like 8 bucks with free shipping. The support is good advice but the tear was not to bad and I didn't think it was needed. Curious, has anyone tried Elmer's glue and paper towel method? I didn't like the idea of using Elmer's glue, longative.

Went to home depot looking for goo and did find any, I think I was thinking of goop anyway. I did find shoe glue from loctite, states uv and water resistant, vibration and Impact resistant, flexible, durable and dries clear. Sounded good so I bought it. I would rather have tried Dave's suggestion but this is readily available, I think it will work fine. It dries clear but does turn speaker darker where applied. Thanks for the suggestions!

Left speaker - Radiator repaired, sonicaps 6 uf and 2 2uf are in. Dayton 68uf in woofer section. Right speaker - all caps are Dayton audio. It's late so I am listening at low volume and really don't hear any difference between the two. Tomorrow I will be able step on it a little and see what I think Don't know if matter's but daytons have been installed for a while and sonicaps are a new/fresh install.

If you a haven't put your xover back in you may to check the soldering connections. I just finished switching from Dayton to sonicaps and orginal owner did not do a great job putting in the daytons. Good luck with your upgrades.

MAHL's are nice! I think you will like them if you purchase.