ngen33r
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Posts posted by ngen33r
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On 7/1/2022 at 3:58 PM, LaserGecko said:
@ngen33r Are you still repairing amps? I don't have the gear to attempt any of this.
Thanks!I am but due to the government going after PayPal, I can no longer do this as a hobby so I am restructuring as a business.
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19 hours ago, flyingtele said:
Hello ngem33r, and firstly let me say thank you for such a helpful and informative thread. I work as an electronics repair tech and have also repaired many different BASH amplifiers, however this one has me stumped and I'm hoping you may be able to help. It is one of the Klipsch Synergy Sub 12 amps, that seems to feature on this thread the most. Problem with it is very low level audio only when gain control is at max. I have confirmed the power supply is working, measuring the two resistors by the ribbon connector I'm getting approx 3.43 volts from each rail to ground, or ~6.5 volts between them. Is this within spec? I have replaced Q5, tested the zener and its holding 13v drop, and I have replaced all capacitors. I removed the BASH board and tested all components individually and they all check out OK. Could this fault still be in the BASH drive circuit or is it more likely to be a fault in the output stage? Any thoughts or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Does rail voltage increase with the volume knob? You should be able to see it rise as the gain is increased.
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On 2/18/2022 at 4:53 AM, Vafin said:
Hello everyone I also have a problem. On resistors R70 r71. 70v. The resistors are very hot.
Hot resistors mean bash control board needs repair.
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On 1/26/2022 at 11:48 AM, Bman0202 said:
After replacing q7
U3 and u4
The symptoms are still the same.
There is something fishy happening in the amplifier cuircit and I can't find it. This is so frustrating
Looks like the bias pots need adjustment. or the feedback to the opamps from the speaker terminals has a broken trace.
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This KSW-12 has been fully repaired and recapped. It is ready to replace a defective amp or aging. I am offering a trade-in on this.
$85+Shipping with 1 year warranty.
Buyer agrees to send defective plate core after purchasing. (This allows me to repair it for someone else)
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Hello,
I am doing a little house cleaning and trying to clean up my to-do shelf. Some ofyou have seen my forum posts and videos, but to those that are new, I repair audio equipment as a hobby and have been doing so for over 15 years. I have 2 plates ready to go and I am offering a 1 year warranty on the repair through my LLC Supreme Innovations (www.supinv.com).
I am offering all my current and future repairs to forum members first before listing on other sites.
I am not currently accepting defective plates, but I will pay the shipping on your purchase if you send the bad one back to me. This keeps them out of the landfill and eventually in someoe's living room.
My Repair Channel
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOMzk5nU67lbGj1hLzUkmwQ
#1: $115- Sub-10
#2: $115- Sub-10
Shipping NOT included
I accept PayPal CashApp Venmo Zelle -
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On 12/6/2021 at 4:01 PM, DAVALOS said:
Hi everyone,
I still need a bit of help help to fix my amp.
The green circled resistor show 1.87 kOhm instead of 3.2 kOhm.
Should it be the cause of my failure ?
I will be thankfull of anyone could help me to repair it.
Thanks guys
You need to remove all that glue and then retest. Look up the data sheet for the chip in the picture. See which pin is the power pin and check to see if it has 12V. The resistors are fine, don't worry about them.
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On 11/17/2021 at 7:25 AM, AlphaBass said:
Hello @ngen33r! Thank you for sharing so much great information about these repairs. My R-115SW started intermittently cutting out more and more frequently, so I watched several of your repair videos and prepared to order a new resister and caps from DigiKey for a full recap. Imagine my surprise when I opened up the sub and found that it already had a giant 10W resister from the factory! I don't see any evidence of overheating on the resister or any of the caps. Any suggestions on what could cause it to intermittently cut out (complete loss of volume) for a few seconds at a time and then go back to regular volume? The cut-outs seem to have gotten more and more frequent to the point that it is no longer usable. I have not observed any distortion or clipping or other symptoms.
My first choice would be to sent it to you for repair, but it looks like you must be backed up enough that you are not accepting repairs, so I'm hoping you can point me in the right direction to do it myself. (I do have electronics repair background and tools, so the desoldering and resoldering is no problem.)
The large resistors to not solve the problem. This was a poor cheap attempt to fix the issue. The problem is the heat from those resistors dry out the cheap caps. The plus is that version does NOT need the glue cleaned off.
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4 hours ago, RoZis said:
Hello,
Had tried to repair my R-112SW
At C19 the Conductor path is broken up to the back (positive side of capacitor) and I can't see where it ends on my board.
I would like to solder a wire to repair it.Here is a picture of a board (not mine), can you please mark the point where C19 should connected to?
I will try to get this to you tonight. In the mean time clean off all that brown glue. -
On 10/11/2021 at 6:33 PM, Yroger said:
Hello,
I also have a broken Jamo D600 at the moment I only found the two FQP17N40s shorted and visually I can't see anything else yet. The problem was that when the amplifier was on, the speaker would start to buzz when there was no input signal.
Could you measure on yours that works the value of the resistance of the diode marked D8 in front of the MBR20200C. What were the symptoms of your D600 ?Thanks in advance.
Buzz almost always means BAD CAPS. Replace the 6 smaller Carli caps and all the electrolytics. Blown FETS mean gate resistors need to be checked and also the control PCB. -
On 9/21/2021 at 3:41 AM, Journey said:
I removed the bash board
On 9/30/2021 at 7:15 AM, Journey said:Hi Wayne,
Thanks again for that latest info/response ... as I stated above, I removed and tested the IR2153 and it was fine.
Using this Vid as a guide. The schematic for the tester is shown in the vid.
With all being well on the Ctrl Brd and the bash brd removed ... question ... Can you power up without the bash connected ... my thinking is to see if the primary side is functioning properly now that I think the primary is good to go.
I would appreciate your thots on this.
The BASH board MUST be installed. The mosfets will gate FULL ON and blow if it does not have control. -
I am going to try to answer a whole bunch of questions in 1 post. I am back from a vacation so I have a lot of catching up to do.
On 10/3/2021 at 3:50 AM, Navest said:@ngen33r Thank you for the amazing work you do! Could you please tell me the values of the two resistors just behind the two big capacitors at R16? That would be a big help!
I will update this post tonight with the values.
On 10/8/2021 at 11:10 AM, Zony said:Hallo at all.
My english is Not the best but mayby you understand me.
Our r112sw making a "tiking" noise when i Turn the Switch on.
I replaced the dirt Resistor and three electrolytics around the RResistor but the "tiking" noise is still there.
Make sure all bad glue is removed and continue to replace all the CAPS. If this does not work, the PWM IC will need to be replaced.
On 10/8/2021 at 10:55 PM, Ablejedi said:Hello - I recently "inherited" an RSW 10d sub. I thought it was fully operational - all seemed ok when plugged in and configuring via the top panel, and the when moved and connected to source material the top panel went to pulsing/flickering, and the sound went in and out. @ngen33r - would you be willing to look at it, and if so how do you work on things like this. I'm in Dallas area.
Please post in the RSW thread.
On 10/17/2021 at 1:06 PM, DAVALOS said:Hi @ngen33r,
Thanks for this blog and for your science.
I'm Martin from France and I will appreciate a bit of your help with my R115SW amp to try to save him.
I bought it from second hand, replaced the famous burned resistor and the 3 capacitors arround.
That worked for arround 50 hours before a few crackes sounds appeared sometimes.
Now I have no sound at all. The front light is green, and the speaker is good.
Do you know from where I should start ?
When you said "recap", are you talking about replacing all PCB capacitors ?
I'm not an electronic but a mechanic and I only have a multimeter tester.
But I will be happy to learn more about it !
Martin
A full recap might be needed or the PWM IC failed.
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You always have to recap with the resistor.
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I am swamped with repairs for now. I have a huge waiting list and summer is busy as hell for me. I do offer amp swaps on 3bay when I have the time to get a few snuck in. Life ruins my hobby.
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On 9/7/2021 at 12:42 PM, Journey said:
Well boy was I wrong ! ... How the hell can you run a sub amp on 8 volts ?! There's no DC boost on the amp board so ... ???? wth ?
These amps have signal tracking. The power supplies vary output voltage based on the level of the audio signal. Class H, I believe. 8V is the no signal standby voltage on DC+
You cannot use a variac with these supplies, so eliminate that from the equation. Also if those caps were in backwards. Throw them out and replace them. -
On 6/9/2021 at 9:29 PM, DDub said:
NTE6412 IS A DIAC NOT A ZENER DO NOT USE A ZENER!!!! THERE ARE ALSO 2 VERSIONS OF THIS BOARD THAT DIFFER IN VALUES FOR DIFFERENT SYSTEMS. PLEASE VERIFY BEFORE REPLACING ANY COMPONENTS. -
I have new PCB's for that part if yours cannot be repaired.
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On 6/26/2021 at 5:26 AM, gslettum said:
Changed then anyway, for smd soldertraining😁. And all the diodes. I got power too the secondary side now, but have unstable 13-15 unstable volt at the CD+ and -. And the Q4 2sn4401 made some noise, and broke down.
Any idea? Bashboard?
Bash board is the next step once the primary side is stable. Might as well recap the whole board too. Never know whats under them until you pull them. -
On 4/12/2021 at 3:44 PM, gslettum said:
Theese small smd caps.
It's never the caps!
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On 6/16/2021 at 12:34 PM, Varuna said:
Hi Wayne , I have an issue with the secondary side of the power supply. It doesnt pass any power from CD+ and CD-. 0V output. But i get the power for the other control boards. What is the usual output voltage and Amp of CD+ CD- terminals.
Can you guide me how to repair this
~8V DC
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On 4/10/2021 at 5:34 PM, Can’t Solder said:
Ngen33r, where are you located? I bought 2 used Klipsch sub 10 subwoofers ( with quintet III) from Goodwill auction. I liked the first speaker set with the Quintet III so well that I got another set with the sub 10. Both worked fine, until the second started blowing fuses. Now my first one has no sound, but the power stays on. They are probably not worth fixing. I contacted Klipsch, but they won’t give me a schematic on them. I probably can’t fix them anyway? From what your writing, it sounds like there is no way I can cheaply fix them?
Cleveland. I have a massive waiting list but I do have some trade-ins listed on eBay.
Sub-10 / Sub-12 / RPW-10 Repair Blog
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
I am still doing repairs, but life has decided to take up most of my time. I hope to be getting back into it more after I do some much needed maintenance.