ngen33r

I have not made any test fixtures. I keep a spare power supply that is known good and use that as a test rig. You can always socket the components for testing then remove the sockets for final install. I have attached my version of the schematic. 660045-1.sch

The BIAS could be way off or the volume is too high. Testing should always happen with the volume at 5% or less. If the outputs were replaced the pots will need to be adjusted. I plan to cover this in a future video. The unmarked DIAC is a DB6 and can be sourced from NTE.

This is looking great. I have done this in the past, but I never had the time to fully invest into making the schematics. Are you using Eagle or Kicad? I can just upload the schematic file for you.

An 8A fuse will NOT blow with the bulb in series. Something is wrong in your setup. The most current that can be sourced would be ~1A before the bulb goes full on and clamps the current. I replace the via with a thru hole repair kit. They are VERY expensive for what they are but needed IMO for a professional repair.

I DO NOT LIKE PROVIDING THESE FILES 1. BECAUSE PEOPLE THEN PESTER ME AND ASK FOR THEM 2. BECAUSE I PUT A TON OF TIME INTO CROSS REFERENCING THE DESIGNS AND PARTS AND ALL THIS INFO CAN BE GOOGLED THIS IS A SIMILAR POWER SUPPLY FROM BASH USED IN AN INFINITY THIS IS FOR REFERENCE ONLY AGAIN THIS IS FOR REFERENCE ONLY 500W BASH.pdf

RECAP & repair the control board. No schematics are known to exist for these.

DO NOT BUY PARTS FROM AMAZON, DON'T DO IT! https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/on-semiconductor/2N4401BU/1417 https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/epcos-tdk-electronics/B57211P0100M301/2781797 PDC parts are listed on the schematic I made and posted. Rebuild requires replacing what is bad and what PDC you have. There are 2 different versions with different parts. FETS are IRF730/740 depending on the amp you have Everything is available on DigiKey or Mouser, or any reputable parts supplier.

Cut off the legs and solder jumper wires in the position you want

SW-10 REPAIRS SHOULD GO WITH SUB-10 AND SUB-12 I WILL REVISE THAT TITLE IF I CAN EDIT IT. PLEASE MOVE THIS POST IN THERE. THANK YOU

Here is that part:

The 104 is an Inrush Limiter https://www.datasheet4u.com/datasheet-pdf/Voltts/SCK-104/pdf.php?id=675090 https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/epcos-tdk-electronics/B57211P0100M301/2781797 If that is blown 99.999% of the time your fets are toast too as well as some other passives.

10V is high. 8V is normal. Something else is wrong.

No drawings or schematics are known to exist to the public at this time.

You need to de-solder them and solder new ones in. If those are blown, you will have more bad things than that. https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf/685354/THINKING/SCK-048/1

Here is an RT-10 repair and what I learned.

These amps are always fixable even if almost destroyed.

And so it begins. I have started my video blogs and will continue to support the repair community with detailed videos of how I do a repair.

RSW's start with the caps and start tracing the circuits. These are not easy.