roadworn

Well ....We have a bit of home time on our hands now dont we. Finally finished up these Forte II's . They replaced a set of Herseys and I was not ready for what is an amazing upgrade in sound. Truly surpassed my expectations , much more base, super clear highs and mids. The new B&C DE10's are amazing, super smooth and not overwhelming at all. Really, a great improvemnt in that area. Super quality work in the manufacture. I was prepared to put in L-pads if my crossovers were a failure , not needed whatsoever. I guess I got lucky with my dart board design of Caps on my crossover.. 🙂 Even the wife who was a bit annoyed that I was bringing larger speakers in the house said that the upgrade was overwhelmingly good. Didnt hurt that the first thing I played was her favorite CD Cat Stevens. haha..Thanks to all on the fourm that contributed to the ideas that went into this project. Thanks for watching and take care of yourselves in these weird times.

And then these showed up. cool! One of the tweeters diaphragm's were damaged when I pulled them out. So we went in this directon. They look awsome.

Great, thanks for the info!

The Miflex KPCU 0.47uF and the Audiocap Theta 7uF's were for sure the big spenders on this board. I hope they will be worth their weight in listening pleasure.

Someone else on the fourm suggested sand paper on each strand and thats what i did. Worked great!

The speakers sounded OK. When I tested some of the caps on the old X overs several of the caps were pretty far outside spec, more than 40%. So as with most on this fourm I set out to hopefully make the speakers sound better. My choices for caps were based on the musings found on this fourm to have made an improvemnt to Forte's within a resonable $$ . And with that I took some creative justice as well. The total cost is about the same as a pair of ALK's. 🙂

Yea, as I said in the other post, Iam sure it would have made little difference, but I chose to just coil it up on the bottom. I would like to know how precise the length effects it though?

I did, and they shipped it folded up. My guess is that they get the fabric from overseas in a small folded package, the cleaners had a hell of time getting the wrinkles out. https://hobbyhouseneedleworks.com

Indeed I do and I did haha. Sadly I have never used the router and the learning curve is bigger than I expected. Figuering out the proper RPM for this hard wood and then once you dont have both edges of the router touching the wood it becomes a wild mess in a hot min. In this instance a table router would have been a better choice. The second one was a bit better but still emabarrasing. I suspect If i was bit more patience and practiced I could make it pretty or a t least average, haha. I should have just started over with it but I'm running out of time to get this done. Danm dude, the top looks pretty good though? right? 🙂

My router skills leave a bit to be desired, Iam more of metal guy.

Got one crossover done, not really proud of the wiring layout.No one will see it, but it bothers me. I'll see if I can clean up the second one. Both cabs are paded and ready for stain.

Hmm the crossovers. So much to take in on this subject, Thank you so much to the Members that I have PM'd with questions and to all that contribute here on the forum. I will be experimenting with a variation of the ALK. Here is a mock up, ideas poached from many. The leads on the litz cores are a bit longer than I need.. Can you trim these back? Iam sure that the difference if trimmed would be Negligible, but it would be good to know what effect it would have.

So after my Hersey rebuild I’am taking on a set of Forte II’s. I acquired a matched pair and have started refinish. I have sealed the cabinet seams with glue and sealed the inside of the front of the cab with Flex seal rubber coating. I also dampened the Mid horn lens, woofer and Passive cages with Flex seal in addition a few strips of ultimat product to further deaden them. I braced the inside of the cab as well. I ordered some 18 ct Lambswool Linen to replace the torn ugly blackish grill covers. Going to drop them off at the cleaners to get a proper pressing. I flipped over the factory speaker bottom to see if it modernize the look a bit, I think it kind of makes them look like their floating, jurys still out on this mod. Replaced the connection posts with some nice new ones. I was surprised how well the veneer cleaned up. someone had put many coats of clear on these at some point, maybe that was good thing, at any rate Iam happy that I dont have to recover them.

Thanks for the reply 🙂. Sorry , did not mean to hijack the topic. I will follow up with this in another thread.

While talking litz air core’s , can you trim the leads? Or if too long just wrap them up to the length needed?

Sorry, I miss typed, I ment, L300 is what I would like to have. Yes you are correct! In the studios JBL had studio Biamp versions ofthe L300.... JBL 4333A Studio Monitor is the L300 studio version and it also had different woofer as well, I believe. The L100s were a completely different animal .No horn or cool dispersion device 🙂

Spoken like a true Klipsch guy! haha. I have been in many studios with the L100 and they are amazing speakers. I wish I could afford a pair. As I read the Klipsh fourms, the common complaint with many of the vintage cabinets seems to be the frustrating speaker placement needed to enjoy them. Just scratching my head.

Look on Ebay, someone makes copies.. not plans. Probably a bit of CNC work involved

Did anyone ever supply part numbers for the horns to do this A-55G mod to a forte?

HAHA yes thats what bob stole his sketch from ..

I agree with your comment. (So, why are they doing these weird things with capacitors if there is no benefit mr. medwin? ) 🙂 Clearly Its not all voodoo opinions, There is some science and probably electronic rules behind adding different caps to caps to get a prefered voicing of a speaker. Which is why I started the thread. While I enjoy the Voodoo portion of all this ie: what I think sounds good vs other people. This fourm has an incredible amount of talented people that have already done many times what Iam doing for the first time... so Yes Voodoo good .. yes science good. I love it all, but I need to know what horrible mistakes to avoid. like adding two .01uf $35 caps that will in effect add nothing to my listening pleasure. And of course this is based on my humble system (odyssey Khartago amp, and Candela pre, and my soon to be rebuilt Forte ii's) Perhaps a $50k system would find those two little caps completely Mortifyingly horrible. 🙂

No disrespect as I'm just a nube.Can I say exactly?

Is that from Bob Newart, Button down mind strikes back, freekin funny.

Yes Glens, that is correct , sorry, I should have clairified. Iam talking in crossovers.

All good incite from the group . Thank you. ALexander you are probably dead right . I will measure them just for kicks when I get the caps and let you know what I find. This crossover voodoo is new to me. In normal theory like pwr supplies it seems correct that you would just make up the best combo for the correct Capacitance, but clearly when it comes to Sound being put through a cap all bets are off as many factors (and opinons) seem to make a difference in the final voicing of a crossover. For me and and this ($$$) level of mucking about with crosovers I think I will just use the two caps and be done at 7.48uf However, I enjoy the chase and find it cool to find out that abnormal thinking is what makes all us creative types ... well creative with our experiments. Iam and old roadie and most of my high end is gone and I have terrible ringing, most of this is lost on me I would bet, but I cant help myself haha. Thanks again to the group on these pages, you guys rock.