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Rolox

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Everything posted by Rolox

  1. If it is a room acoustics issue, then I would try putting the LaScala as close as possible to the front wall, and go from there. The only problem is: where will you put your subs?
  2. Most obvious cause would be reversed polarity at one of the woofers. While the Lascala bass doesn't go low, that curve is really weird and not representative of LaScala.
  3. Are those the same chorus that were also advertised on 2ememain.be (the Belgian marktplaats)? I saw a pair that had been painted white for a very interesting price but they didn't stay long... are you the happy buyer? 🙂
  4. The IV is definitely a more modern, more linear / audiophile sounding speaker. Which makes it a BETTER speaker objectively for most. But some might prefer the more colored sound of the III... that midrange horn on the IV however is a masterpiece and the tiny mid horn on the previous versions is seriously limiting the speaker. Personally I think the CW IV is one of the very best speakers money can buy and, although not cheap, is fantastic value compared to the competition.
  5. Just a thought: after trying various amps (no tubes, but some class A solid state) and going through many disappointments (reliability for example) I’m now bi amping my system with some pocket class D amps. Really if you can try something like a Charlize or Trends TA2024 or TA2020 amp, on the high pass, if you are ready to give it some quality linear power supply and a little bit of tweaking (coupling caps etc) you might well forget about expensive tubes or high end transistors at least for a while. I’m cheap, but my ears are good, and they are surprisingly well behaved little marvels!
  6. There's a new mini DSP, the mini DSP "FLEX", and according to measurements it offers much higher performances (actually, very near SOTA) than any previous iterations including the HD versions. Definitely something to consider for those who can't afford Xilica!
  7. Well that's the tricky part: I live in Europe, Belgium, Brussels!! I have absolutely no idea how much shipping would cost. I do know however that I refrain buying from the ZXPC Ebay store because the shipping cost for a pair of horns is absolutely ridiculous. But then that's Ebay and their global shipping method which, if fast and secure, is also more expensive than some other options I think. Just think about it. There is still a small possibility that I finally get the horns I ordered from that store in Curaçao (almost three weeks since my payment and after giving me some lousy excuses about the covid situation they now chose to ghost me and kept my money). But all other stores are out of stock and I have no idea if they will ever have that horn back - seems to be the chinese company who makes those sold a certain amount and now production has stopped and we won't see it back.
  8. I know this was two years ago (!) but do you still have those for sale, by any chance??
  9. Thanks a lot! I used to have the attenuation values, but not the polarities 😉
  10. I would like to know if there's a way of knowing, when selecting midrange taps at the autoformer output, when the driver is in phase and when it is not? For example, if I select the taps "X" and "4", which tap is + and which is -? It would help me time/phase aligning my tweeters if I would know when the mid driver is electrically in phase and when it is inverted... thanks!
  11. Khornukopia, I have a pair of ZXPC 18x10 horns on their way to me, may I ask what kind of paint job you used for the copper color? was it easy to apply? does it hold on good on the horn? I think it looked great thanks!
  12. I've used a Trends TA10.1 mini class D amplifier full range with LaScala for a couple years. 6 clean watts per channel and we used to throw parties every weekend (those were the days). Never did I run the tiny amp into distortion. Now I still use that tiny amp but, since I'm actively bi-amping, there's another class D amp (60watts / channel) on the bass horns. Just for laughs, you might want to buy one of those tiny class D marvels (from brands such as Topping, Aiyma, SMSL...) just to try. No it won't beat some expensive tubes, but seeing an amp the size of two cigarettes packs power big speakers like LaScala to deafening levels is a grin inducing moment, and you might even find the ratio between sound quality / reduced floorprint / ridiculously low current draw / zero produced heat / signal to noise ratio / ridiculously low price to be extremely favorable. They usually respond well to some internal components upgrade (such as coupling / decoupling caps etc) and the 12V versions love a very silent linear PSU to replace the laptop-style SMPS. Anyways, it's fun to try!
  13. Modern Lascala have seen considerable improvement of their crossovers, aiming for smoother frequency response and better phase relationships between drivers. They also use a much better tweeter than the old K77, and the bass horns do not resonate as much due to thicker construction. That's not to say you can't enjoy a vintage pair, with some mods, they can be fantastic, but unless you go "crazy" with updated networks and 2inch midrange horn and drivers, and better tweeters (and the woodworking to accept all those mods!!) a vintage pair will never have the edge IMHO.
  14. I use the mid-high section of a pair of original ALK Universal networks. The capacitors used are from Solen and there's one Hovland Musicap. I always found the treble a bit sharp with my Beyma CP25 tweeters - recently I bypassed the last Solen in line with the tweeter with some Miflex KPCU, 1% value of the caps it bypasses, to good results. Then I decided to bypass the first leg of that 3rd order high-pass with some Russian K75 caps, also 1% of the bigger cap value, and it improved things further. No dramatic change of tonality, no night and day difference, but the high treble has lost all artificial sharpness and edge and sounds now much more natural and "organic". I didn't want to completely replace the original caps and just adding bypasses was an easy thing to do.
  15. I'm bi-amping my system with tiny cheap Chinese Class D amps (Trends TA10.1 modded on the high pass, Breeze Audio on the low pass) and it never sounded better. I'm done looking at vintage class A amps with scandalous energy draw and questionable reliability. Everything stays on 24/7, just press "play" and there! MUSIC! The tiny amps I use are also dead silent which is a must on 100+dB horns.
  16. It's hard to answer really. You can make a fantastic Cornscala just like you can make a pretty lousy one. Cabinet construction, crossover (including with parts you will choose), drivers, everything down to the smallest detail will have tremendous impact on the final result. It's probably possible to make a Cornscala that surpasses a Cornwall IV if you are gifted and know exactly what you are doing. On the other hand, I've spent a whole afternoon with CWIV, and they are easily one of the best speakers I've heard ever since I got interested in the hobby 25 years ago. and I've heard MANY! Really a fantastic loudspeaker and, dare I say it, a tremendous deal at the price compared to the competition.
  17. Great work, but I'm going to be a little bit critic: with all the posts about the superiority of 2 inch mid horns and drivers, why not making your own Fastrac or Eliptrac 2inch horn, mated with the new PRV D2200Ph phenolic driver? Would give you even better sound than anything based on a K400 design. As tweeter I always recommend Beyma CP25... a great tweeter made in Spain and widely available in Europe. But, it's quite big, and won't fit in a stock size LaScala top hat. Qudos for the build tho! I wish I had your woodworking talents!
  18. I can’t have the ZXPC shipped from eBay due to outrageously high shipping costs I’m considering buying a pair second hand if someone is willing to ship them to Europe (Brussels)…
  19. There's no easy answer for this. You should go out there and listen to the IV. Possibly side by side with three. There are people who won't hear a difference, others who will find it's night and day, it all depends on your sensitivity and ears. Heck, there are people who can't hear differences between amps or DACs... for others, upgrading in those fields will yield huge improvements. Your ears are the only ones that should decide, and no one else's!
  20. For what it's worth, I've been bi-amping my system with tiny chip amps for years Breeze audio BA100 on the bass horns (25USD without PSU!) Modded Trends TA10.1 on the mid/highs it all sounds fantastic all those amps react very well to a quality, low noise linear power supply which brings them the refinement of much more expensive amps. Really something to consider. Plenty of options on AliExpress - I use one from ZeroZone.
  21. That's good to know, thanks! 🙂
  22. The hesitation I have concerns the directivity of the horn. The EV SM120 offers an ultra wide 120° dispersion; I wonder if the ZXPC horn wouldn't be quite beamy, maybe too beamy for a closer-than-optimal listening position (around 10 feet from the speakers!)
  23. Currently using A55G drivers on EV SM120 horns. Crossover frequencies 500 and 6000Hz. Passive at 6000Hz, active at 500. I can use whatever mid driver I want as the crossover system allows for multiple attenuation schemes. If I were to upgrade, should I consider: 1) keep the existing horns and try the new A55G/2 driver (is there really much of a difference?) 2) buy a pair of ZXPC 18x11 horns and a pair of PRV D2200ph? In other words, is it really worth it to go with a 2inch driver?? Thanks
  24. You can most definitely hear a 1dB change of output in a midrange or tweeter.
  25. Eminence Kappa 15C work well in LaScala; they won't give you DEEPER bass (no woofer can in a Lascala enclosure) but they will give you better DEFINITION of upper bass and low midrange. Maximum extension of the diaphragm is smaller, so if you are a headbanger and listen to bass heavy stuff, it might not be for you - or it might be perfect if you use a couple of subs and an ACTIVE CROSSOVER to remove the lowest frequencies from your LaScala. Stock K33 woofers are a good compromise if you don't want to fiddle around and occasionally listen very loud without a high pass filter. Generally speaking, the ONLY way to get more deep bass from LaScala is to add one or two good subwoofers.
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