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Charles T

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Everything posted by Charles T

  1. And with that note, I'm going to put you on the Ignore list...
  2. Again, take your own advice. And learn how to type. You know, use the right words and such.
  3. No, not redundant at all. I have looked through that thread. That's one of the reasons I've been thinking about getting an old pair, just to experiment with. Lots of good info on that thread.
  4. So I'm the one getting "attacked" so to speak, yet I'm the one who should leave? LOL Maybe you should take your own advice.
  5. Really dude? Like that's a mature response? I guarantee you would never speak to a member like that in person. And if you did, god help you. Look, I came on here to have a decent time and share my appreciation for Klipsch. I didn't come on here to get into debates about cables and people telling me what I should or shouldn't buy. I asked nicely and the comments still come. Why? What difference does it make to you or anyone else what I spend my money on? I could care less if someone blows money on boats and golf clubs. I don't like either, but I'm not going to ridicule and preach to someone who does. It's their money. Let them spend it and enjoy it the way they want. Plain and simple.
  6. I don't. And again, if you want to talk about that stuff, please take it elsewhere. Simple request.
  7. And here I thought you were going to say you jabbed the pry bar through the cone or slit it with the razor. The terminal pad can be fixed (replaced), but will be a little bit of a PITA. You'd have to drill out that rivet, get a small piece of masonite drill three holes through it, rivet it to the basket, safely and quickly desolder the leads off of the old tabs, screw new ones onto the new piece of masonite and safely and quickly re-solder the leads to the new tabs. Like I said, a PITA. But if funds are tight, you'll suffer through the fix and make it work.
  8. According to PWK's chart above, and the fact that the Heresy III's are now more efficient than the II's and I's, AND the fact I have only hit peaks of about 102 dB at my seat in this somewhat small room, I most likely haven't even broken these amps out of the 10 watt Class A mark yet. Not that I'm concerned about it anyway. Besides, this new "Continuity" design is supposed to sound like Class A all the way up to max power. I'm sorry, but if I'm dumping anything near 80 watts into my Heresy III's, I'm very stupid, and afterwords, very deaf. Kind of odd that you say that the bass isn't the tightest. I found that after switching over from the PS Audio Stellar M700 amps to these little Schiit Aegir amps, bass is in fact tighter, more solid and more textured. And yes, that's with the subs turned off. Although, speaking of the subs, they get their signal from the amps, not via RCA, so even through the subs, I could tell a slight difference in punch, tightness and detail moving up to the Aegir amps.
  9. I've tried the PS Audio Stellar M700 monoblocks with the matching Stellar Gain Cell DAC (preamp) with my Heresy's as well as my current set of Schiit, dual Aegir amps running balanced mono and Freya + preamp with NOS Raytheon and CBS 6SN7 tubes. I have to say, the Schiit stack goes much better with my Heresy III's than the Stellar stack did. Even with the tube section turned off, the system still sounds great, still better than the Stellar stack. I don't see myself selling off the Schiit gear within a year and a half like I did the PS Audio gear. The PS Audio stack just didn't have that hearty sound to it. It lacked soul. It lacked feeling. Not so at all with the Schiit stack. As far as I'm concerned, Schiit and Klipsch Heritage are a match made in heaven.
  10. I just pulled up that track on Qobuz. That certainly is a healthy dose of bass. At lot more than I would think an 8" woofer at near full tilt could handle safely. It just rattled the poop out of the entire house. I had to go back and play it again a little louder! One of my cats was laying on the couch washing himself. When that bass came him, he spun around and looked at the stereo. His tongue was hanging out of his face! LOL
  11. It's been a few weeks since you posted this thread. So... How's the "new to you" DAC? For me, I want a DAC that portrays voices as natural and connected as possible. Some DAC's get this wrong and the body, chest and harmonics of a singer's voice sounds detached. Almost like sitting way too close to a large 3-way speaker, so close that all three drivers don't have enough space and time to come together as one. Another attribute I look for in a DAC is one that "shows" the acoustics of the recording venue, whether it be a recording studio, a music hall, a cathedral, a stadium, whatever. I've heard some DAC's that almost completely eliminate this entire aspect of the recording. Makes for a very lifeless, boring and sometimes fatiguing experience. Being able to hear the acoustic space of the recording is actually part of the recording. It's part of the music and it's part of the experience, which is part of what makes a good recording. It makes you feel more "there" rather than listening to a stereo in an anechoic chamber or something. To be able to hear the faint rumble of the HAVC system or traffic outside, or reverberations off of the walls is what makes a great recording to me. It transports you to that location. A good DAC should have a liquid, or organic sound to it. Bass shouldn't be dry, midrange shouldn't be analytical, treble should most certainly not be etchy or sharp. It should have good sound staging and imaging. It should have deep, detailed, impactful bass, a full and natural midrange, and airy and refined treble. One DAC that stands out to me that I have owned is the original Schiit Bifrost. I had one of the first ones, and throughout the time of ownership, I had upgraded the USB board and analog board to the latest and greatest at the time. It was a great sounding DAC and I should have never sold it, but it got replaced by an Oppo 105D which sounded decent enough, but also had balanced outputs which I really needed in that system at the time due to the noisy apartment environment. I now have ( just received it a couple weeks ago) a brand new Schiit Bifrost 2 "Multibit" DAC. It's everything the original was and a LOT more. I've tried a few different common DAC's in my system somewhat recently, including a Teac, Wyred 4 Sound, and one of those new little SMSL blue DAC's. I also listed to the small Mytek and Benchmark units at the 2020 Florida Audio Expo a few weeks back, though through headphones, either directly out of the DAC's or via external headphone amps with a number of different headphones. One pair costing upwards of $10k. Out of the lot, the W4S DAC sounded the best. Then I purchased the Bifrost 2 and was surprised at how good it sounded. For me in my system, it actually out-performed all of them by a fair gap except for the W4S. These two were very close in overall tonality, sound stage and imaging. Where I think the Bifrost wins out is capturing that "space" and acoustics of the recording venue and a bit more refined top end. Plus it helps that it's considerably less expensive. All of these DAC's that were tried out in my system were fed from my Bluesound Note 2 via coax. I want to eventually upgrade the streamer to something that utilizes USB to get the full benefits of this DAC. But as it stands, I have zero complaints or regrets. I'm keeping this Bifrost 2.
  12. Guys, let's NOT start one of these stupid cable wars crap. Especially in my thread. Take it elsewhere. And just to "amuse" you, none of the house was grounded except for the kitchen and bathroom. I asked my friend (the owner of the house) to replace the existing line to this one outlet with new wire and have it grounded. His son in-law is an electrician, I purchased 10/2 romex cable and a brand new Square D 15 amp breaker from work and that's what he used to run directly to that single outlet.
  13. Charles T

    Car Thread

    Just sold my 2016 Nissan 370Z that I bought new with 4 miles on it, and just over 16k when I sold it, with an additional $13k of mods performed on it, and pumping out nearly 400 hp at the crank N/A. Sold it due to my left knee and hip (darn bicycle jumps and junk I used to do as a kid). I could shift just fine, but it was getting in, and more so getting out that was killing me. Now I have a sweet, near mint 2001 Lexus LS430, barely broken in with a mere 201k miles on the clock! Full ceramic tint all around including clear all the way down the windshield to protect the interior, muffler delete just to give it a little sound which means it's still very quiet (and it really is too). However, I plan on doing a full custom stainless exhaust including headers, x-pipe, all mandrel bent, and Magnaflow mufflers, and the party piece... Electric cut-outs right after the headers and cats. I ordered custom valved adjustable coilovers for it which still need to be installed, and also have the timing belt/water pump/pulley kit sitting here waiting to be installed. I also have a remapped ECU coming for it as well to help give it a little extra spunk and firm up the shifts as well as speed up the down shifts. Still trying to decide on wheels, most likely 18's and something in a style that would be somewhat period correct, staggered as well. Think older BMW M series and Merc AMG of the late 90's, early 2000's. Oh, and I ordered and installed JDM tail lights straight from Japan off of the Toyota Celsior as they came with clear turn signals instead of the ugly amber ones. I've only had the Lexus for around 5 months, so I'm just collecting toys for it at the moment, and for some reason, I really enjoy driving this car so much more than any other car I've had before, and all of my other cars were all sports cars and manuals... Go figure. LOL BTW, the Alfa Romeo in the pics belongs to one of my brothers.
  14. Oh, but I am. 9awg Mojo Audio cable going to the Wireworld power strip. Then the same two Blue Circle Audio PLC pucks that were on the wall in that pic above are plugged into the strip. Both amps and the APC conditioner are plugged into the pucks. The two subs are plugged directly into the strip. The rest of the gear is plugged into the APC. On the Freya +, with the tubes off and in either passive or JFet mode and the volume all the way up, you can have your ears right in the tweeter horns, and there's zero noise of any kind. With the tubes on and the volume turned all the way up, there's just the very slightest hint of hiss coming through. Zero hum, zero buzz, zero nothing.
  15. I've been sort of looking for an old pair of Heresy's, kind of beat up but not completely destroyed, just so I can get them on the cheap and play around with them, doing mods and such to them... You know, just for the heck of it.
  16. What? That's not even remotely close to anything I said.
  17. Nah. I don't get into that whole multiple speaker, stacking thing that some like doing. You see that a lot over on Audiokarma. I'm into quality, not quantity.
  18. For me, a new job, lack of time off, etc, etc. Keeping it "local" is cheap and easy, and more importantly, more frequent in everyone wants.
  19. Thanks for all of the kind words on the system and room. The blinds wouldn't have been our first choice, but they were put in right before we moved in, but after we had the floors refinished and all of the painting we did. Yes, we're renting, but from a good friend of mine that I met through my last job and have known now for 13 years. It's a nice little old house, built in 1951. It's been in his wife's family since she was a young girl. They are like family to us. It's a very good situation to say the least. Anyway, from the beginning, they said we pretty much have free rein of the place, within reason of course. We've been looking at various types of blinds, so will change them out in the near future. And no, I wasn't thinking you're an asshat at all. I am curious as to how those Super Heresy's sound compared to stock, and what those subs are. Also, thanks for the warm welcome!
  20. I don't mean anything negative about anything I wrote. It's just that you can't do a review between two radically different loudspeakers without trying all possibilities to get the best out of both, then give one speaker a negative point because of the drastically different style/design of it compared to the other. It doesn't matter what loudspeaker you have, everyone has to experiment with room positioning, toe in-out, height, tilt angle, etc, etc in order to get the best out of said speaker. You can't just plop a speaker down in a room and expect it to perform its best. If that means putting a speaker on a stand and/or trying different height stands, then so be it.
  21. Technically, based off of overall size alone, the Heresy is NOT a floor standing speaker. The Forte (which I don't know why that one was even mentioned), is in fact a floor standing speaker, hence why it is much taller than the Heresy. You don't see people laying Harbeth's, JBL Classic's, Spendor's, Wharefedale Linton's, etc, etc directly on the floor, do you? They're all roughly the same size, and are all considered "bookshelf" loudspeakers and sit on stands. The Heresy was put on the floor so it wouldn't be so imposing in a room already full of two very large, very imposing loudspeakers. Plus the fact that the knowledge and practices of a center channel speaker back in 1957 was nothing like the knowledge and practices of center channels today. And to nit-pick, who's the one with three LaScala's a couple feet off the ground behind a screen? Those definitely ARE floor standing speakers, yet you have them raised a couple feet. Yes, I know why you do, but still. More unfortunate people who can't build a full custom theater room would have the screen a touch higher and the LaScala's on the floor, in front of and just below the screen. So... There seems to be a bit of contradiction there. And lastly, as far as bass extension loss is concerned, the Heresy's didn't lose too much in the way of extension from being raised off the floor. What they DID lose ALL of was the annoying and nasty chesty hump in the upper mid-bass region. Being raised, they are nearly completely neutral from top to bottom. Also, obviously, I run dual subs, so bass loss from the Heresy's is a mute point for me anyway. Given the fact that you never experimented with placement of the Heresy's, including putting them on some sort of stands (which all professional reviewers would do), your review is incomplete and gives a false view of the Heresy's performance. Comparing oranges to apples. That would be like faulting a well designed tower loudspeaker because it doesn't create a full wall of sound like a line array does.
  22. I guess you could call me a fan. I like the technology involved and the big bang for the buck factor that Schiit offers. I had a full PS Audio Stellar stack that I bought new a little over a year ago with the Stellar Gain Cell DAC and dual M700 monoblock amps. The Schiit preamp and amps cost over $2200 less and sound more than twice as much better. With the recent addition of the DAC, I'm still saving over $1700, and that alone bumped up the performance to price ratio even more. This Schiit gear just stomps the "schiit" out of the PS Audio gear on every front at a fraction of the cost. I haven't done any research on the Ragnarok I or II, but I imagine it's still a great piece of gear well worth more than what Schiit charges for it. I honestly don't think you can go wrong.
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