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Moosh Bronsun

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Posts posted by Moosh Bronsun

  1. 7 minutes ago, Langston said:

     

    A few things of note re: the SBAF Loki measurements:

     

    1. The ARTA measurements are single channel (the second is used in loopback to remove the sound device transfer function errors), so there's no way to judge channel balance with them. They were performed nicely - I can tell that even the max. boost traces are undistorted and noise-free. The guy makes no mention of the drive voltage(s) used, thus we have no idea if the Loki can output undistorted EQ boosts in the neighborhood of the 2V RMS standard for home audio.

     

    2. The Audio Precision measurements have the advantage of showing both channels, but the guy made several mistakes that make the results much less useful. The first mistake is that he selected 100dB Y-axis scales for a device that can affect gain by +/-12dB at most, thus it's very difficult to see channel imbalances or anything else. The second mistake is that while the Audio Precision system is an integrated (software and hardware) platform, the guy doesn't bother to tell us the drive voltages used. Thus the Loki might not be able to get anywhere near the 2V RMS standard for home audio equipment, or maybe it can exceed it like the EQ570, we can't tell. The third mistake is that didn't provide results (as seen in the ARTA plots) of each knob position an end-user is likely to use, but instead shows a few useful results along with some simultaneous mixing of the EQ's which is interesting, but far less useful. The forth mistake he makes is he drives the Loki significantly beyond its linear range into distortion and doesn't seem to realize it (post #29). The heavy fuzz on Ch1 is one example as are the wiggles in the midrange traces (500Hz - 2kHz). Both are tell-tales of non-linearity caused by distortion and/or high noise levels and/or inappropriate FFT parameter settings in the measurement.

     

    3. The ARTA measurements are the most useful because they show how the EQ behaves at various knob positions. From them I can see:

     

    Like the Bellari EQ570, the Loki has low frequency shelving filter. Unlike the EQ570, the remaining (3) filters are peaking types. While I slightly prefer the Loki's high frequency filter bandwidth, the lower (3) filter designs are so bad that it makes the unit a non-starter regardless of any other specifications it may boast. The low shelf filter affects a bit too much of the spectrum above 100Hz at likely in-use settings, but the real deal breakers are the critical mid-band EQ's around 400Hz and 2kHz. Those two bands show useful shapes only at their max. and min. gain settings. At the lower settings that are much more likely to be used, the curves flatten out to the point of uselessness and affect way too much of the spectrum.

     

    IMO, the Loki is useful for its bass and treble knobs alone. I'm amazed this thing ever got off the bench. After reading several reviews with measurements of other Schiit products, I am at a loss figuring out what they're up to. Some stuff appears to be quite good, while other stuff is mediocre and worse. Fascinating.

     

    God bless you and your precious family - Langston

    Ahh OK. Makes sense (I am not super up on the science but do under most of the numbers, I have worked in recording studios for a while).

  2. 20 minutes ago, Langston said:

     

    Good observation - we're been spoiled by a digital world where everything is spot-on. With most analog stuff, variations between L/R like this are common, though the EQ570 is probably better than most, maybe better than all near this price range.

     

    Still it doesn't matter. Worse case is about 1/3rd of a decibel and loudspeakers with L/R differences less than 2dB are rare. Then you have room modes and reflections and non-symmetrical furniture arrangements and imperfect listening positions and...

     

    I think it's reasonable to consider the EQ570's channel balance flawless considering all that other stuff. : )

     

    God bless you and your precious family - Langston

    Figured as much but didn't recall that on the SBAF Loki measurements (though the Loki is 2x the price).

     

    Strongly considering this move.

     

    P.S. I find it interesting that the curve relaxes with lower amounts of cut/boost and moves lower in the frequency range. Its as if the 2k pole could double its boost/cut it would end up at 3k+. Wild.

     

    Thanks again for the exhaustive measurements, I'd also be curious as to what happens when say: cutting the 2k pole a quarter turn but then boosting the 7.5k pole by a quarter turn. Would it make the Q factor steeper on the upper end (the 2k pole)? The mind boggles...

  3. 3 hours ago, avguytx said:

     

    SBAF?  Have a link to that?

    Super Best Audio Friends. I've been trying to find it myself. They ran pink or white noise through it and , while watching the waveform adjusted the dials. After the usual boost and cut, they started using the knobs against each other to make tighter, more pinpoint frequency selections. Its killing me I cannot find it.

     

    EDIT:  https://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/schiit-loki-eq-measurements.5153/

     

    As I said, all I'm looking for is a 2-3db cut at about 1500hz. Just a nudge for the dozen or so records that need it.

    • Thanks 1
  4. 44 minutes ago, avguytx said:

    @Moosh Bronsun  I'm having the same issues with a pair of Klipsch CF-3's (older model) and a pair of ads L1230's that are now located on the short wall upstairs.  I've been researching the same things and decided against an older EQ as I don't want to have to deal with older slides, older capacitors, potentially lower S/N ratio, etc., so I ordered this Bellari EQ570 from Amazon earlier today.  I've looked at the Schiit Loki's, as well, but by the time it gets to my door shipped and with tax, it's close to $200.  For $130 shipped with tax, I decided to try this out and have that window of opportunity to return it if it doesn't work out.  The range I'm seeing it on RTA is from about 2 to 4kHz in my room so hopefully this will tame it some.  If it works, I can hide the red EQ>  ha

     

    https://www.amazon.com/Bellari-Audio-EQ570-Equalizer/dp/B07PPQ3XWM/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1NGY1PVB7FRMG&dchild=1&keywords=eq570&qid=1633028447&sprefix=eq57%2Caps%2C390&sr=8-2

    Same. Looked at the Loki but both the Bellari and Schiit have a pole at 2k. SBAF had graphs where they knobbed different frequencies using the paranetric curves agsint each other but none seem to hit the spot. Let me know how you make out.

  5. I love my H4's, But some records have a bit of forwardness in the 1k-2k range. I watched GR Research's video on the Forte 3 and his measured the same.

     

    Curious on how I can alleviate this? I was looking at a Schiit Loki but its nearest adjustment is 2k and it seems like that will not work?

     

    Thanks In advance.

  6. Ok so question here as while I’m enjoying the speakers now greatly, my set up is exposed posed by the Sensitivity.

     

    while moving some connections on the preamp (turned off) I noticed some hiss from the speakers with just the amp on. When I flipped the preamp on that sound was almost completely eliminated but then while listening to either tv or records I get this quiet but audible super high pitched sound.
     

    I feel like the amp really grips these speakers and so I’d ideally like to stick with it. I do feeL the gain on the preamp is way high and part of me wonders if I should try the Schiit Sys again and if good with it sell the Quicksilver (which is interesting that people love Quicksilver amps but not their preamp). And look at like a Herron VTSP-3. With the SYS I can’t run a sub though (obviously). 

     

    Thoughts?

  7. 13 hours ago, Islander said:

     

    Did you find that you had to dial your subs' level controls WAY DOWN?  I use Y connectors to split the single Sub Out signal on my bedroom receiver, so it can feed its signal to two subs.  That works fine.  At the other ends, I used Y connectors to feed both inputs, mainly to keep dust out of the unused sockets.  At the time, I didn't realize that feeding both Sub Inputs would boost their output by 6 dB, probably because they had only 90 watt amplifiers in them.

     

    However, when I did the same with the 400 watt subwoofer that I got in 2005, it nearly kicked the sofa across the room.  I quickly consulted the owner's leaflet (4 pages is not a manual), and found that if I needed 6 dB more output, I could use a Y connector to get it.  How helpful!  That Y connector is now in a box somewhere, in case I ever turn my home into a dance club, but the sub is working happily with a single input, especially because the 2020 sub has an 850 watt amplifier.

     

    If I seem to be bragging lately, it's because I got some cool stuff that I'm having fun with.  First was a DragonFly Cobalt DAC/headphone amp, which I hadn't planned to buy, partly because it's a lot of money for something the size of my baby finger.  However, it does make the headphones sound even better, and with all the Shop Local! ads, it seemed like a good time to actually buy something from the hi-fi shop where I hang out and get advice.  That led to my mention of thinking about a newer and better sub, and next thing I knew, I was being shown A Price I Couldn't Refuse.  So that arrived in about a week, which worked out well, since my bro-in-law's sub had quit a few months ago.  So that's where  my 2005 sub went.  Now he's really happy, the guys at the shop are happy, and I'm happy.  Sometimes money can buy you happiness.

     

    Anyone reading this should think about their local hi-fi shop and think about how you'd feel if they went out of business, during this tough time or soon after.  If you have any cash waiting to be spent, you could make someone's day, and maybe get a great deal, too.  BTW, the shop was closed, but I didn't know that.  They answered the phone when I called, and were happy to make an appointment for me to come in.

    with a single channel running into the sub i had to turn it up a smidge. I played records long into the night and I feel like its close to being where I want it. Probably won't mess with it much more as I'll upgrade subs later in the year.  Thanks though.

    • Like 1
  8. 14 hours ago, Islander said:

     

    If feeding the sub from one channel works fine, why not just stick with that?  If it's only for a few months, you should  be fine.  Most subs need only a single signal to be sent to them, just like any other speaker, powered or not, no matter what it costs.  It sounds like your linestage doesn't have a sub output, and you're trying to work around that.  The thing is, with most recordings, the bass part tends to come from the centre of the sound stage, or close to it.  This means that the output from either channel will likely carry most, if not all, of the signal from the bass instruments, so you won't be missing much (or possibly anything), whichever channel you choose to feed the sub.

     

    So is that the case?  Are you trying to feed the sub from a source that has no Sub outlet?

     

    Another point is that even bass instruments make sounds that reach into the midrange, like the sound of the musician's finger on the strings, and that's what your ears and brain will pick up and use to place the instrument on the stage.  This is often audible, when you can pick out the same beat coming from one speaker and the centre of the stage simultaneously.

     

    EDIT:  Just Checked.  My new Paradigm sub has two inputs.  They are:  

                                                                                                                                 

                                                                                                                     and        R  Sub In

                                                                                                                                          LFE In

     

     You may find something similar on your new Rythmik sub when it arrives, since this is not at all unusual.  For a Centre Rear speaker, for instance, the manual may tell you to connect to one of the surround rear/surround back outputs on the pre-amp/linestage/AV receiver, whichever is indicated on the unit for Single Channel Out.

    Yes, my preamp outs are just stereo. I'm rolling with it as is for now.

    • Like 1
  9. 1 hour ago, Marvel said:

     

    1/4 watt resistors would be more than adequate. I would be so crude as to rip apart a couple cheap cables, solder everything together and wrap with tape. If it does what you want you could tidy it up, but that's just me.

    The hardest part of this is that it’s temporary. Later this year I plan on upgrading my sub to Rythmik which has stereo ins. So I’m trying to cheap out and do something that has to last a couple months tops.

  10. 45 minutes ago, Marvel said:

    If you are up to it you could make one very inexpensively.

    Looking into this now. Seems straight forward but I haven't soldered in 10,000 years. In fact I just dug out my pen and I think I am out of solder. DRATS

     

    It will cost more to DIY but I may go that route anyway because I am not all that smart but like to learn.

  11. 16 minutes ago, babadono said:

    Not to be a d*%k but of course a Y adapter shorts TWO OUTPUTS together. That is not what Y adapters are for. They are to feed TWO INPUTS with one output. I use them on the inputs of my RSW-15 subs. This helps insure the auto on feature works even at relatively low input levels.

    Well not to be a d*ck but the cable I purchased does not specifically state whether it splits or sums a signal. Either is what a Y cable can do. The can feed TWO INPUTS or feed TWO OUTPUTS.

  12. 19 minutes ago, baron167 said:

    What's your sub Y adapter being plugged into exactly? What inputs does your sub have?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    The Y sums the stereo RCA and is plugged directly in to the sub.  The sub is a basic home theater sub that has just a LFE in.

  13. So my Heresys are sounding really good and I decided to add my cheap HT sub as I had before.

    Whats weird is that with the sub plugged in all my preamp outputs are send a summed signal. When I play a test track with panning, both channels are summed

    and sent to both speakers. Weird.

    So after unhooking everything And reconnecting I have discovered that the Y adaptor summing the left and right signal to mono which then plugs into the sub is the cause. I have no idea how it’s sending back a summer signal to both sets of outputs. Bizarre!

    So my question is: how is this possible and could it be a faulty adaptor? If I run one of the channels into the sub (no Y adaptor

    in the chain) it’s fine. If the Y is in the chain

    but the sub is off then it’s fine.

     

    Thoughts??

  14. Still allowing things to happen and also trying not to drive everyone crazy with my dysfunctions. 
    I have to say that it’s amazing that one could have a 7” woofer rated at -3db @50hz and then hear a 12” woofer rated at -4db at 48hz with the only other difference being front vs rear port but the bass output is startling. STARTLING.
     

    As the Quicksilver does phase invert I remembered at work that I didn’t reverse the speaker wires. Did that first thing home and I don’t know that I hear a diff. I also put a  piece of .65” foam board under the rear of each speaker to aim them forward more (vs up) and today the teeter seems far more assertive.

     

    Duran Duran S/T (Original pressing)

    The Cult Sonic Temple (30th Anny repress)

    Sisters Of Mercy Vision Thing

     

    All had very extended tweeter action.
     

    I will probably run a sub as planned but holy crap man, if the Heresy makes this kind of bass I’d have been F—-ed with Cornwalls 😱

     

    that’s it for now. In a week or two I’ll swap the Focals back in and then I’ll know.

     

    thanks again ✌🏼

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