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Posts posted by MacWorks
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Looking for a puffin, preferably with digital out. Thanks!
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So I added the JEM Performance Capacitors and I am challenged to hear a difference. Only one side has been upgraded for the moment. .. listening to mono recordings to compare. I'll have my 18 year old give it a listen, maybe it's old ears. Dunno...
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double post
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triple post
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From what I have seen, and I realize this is subjective, some folks feel that the E net work is not as sonically pleasing.
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2 hours ago, geoff. said:
If you leave the iron on the capacitor leads too long you will fry the capacitors. Leave the leads as long as they come.
I am not even sure a 25 Watt iron is up to the task. The wires will suck up a lot of the heat before they “tin”.
Many people, myself included use aligator clips clamped across the capacitor leads as a heat sink. I have even put a tiny bit of moistened sponge inside the clips when the leads are really short (salvaged from another project) in addition to a clamp or as many as I can fit.
There are really cheap “automatic wire strippers” that may come in handy.I would be inclined to leave the original caps right where they are on the board and leave a couple inches of wire still soldered to each cap. There is a lot of real estate for the new caps beside them on those boards. Or, if you are worried about the “cans” eventually leaking you could pull them off, but leave a couple inches of wire on them, just in case…
Thank you, @geoff. All really good suggestions. I will follow your advice and get a better iron and leave the old cans in place.
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Thanks, That Kester is 60/40.
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I ordered JEM Performance Audio caps and would like to perform the install myself. I know almost nothing about soldering but this is what I have - see pic.
Kester 83-4000-0000 SN60PB40 Solder Pocket Pack, 0.031"
Weller 25-watt
Anything else?
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18 minutes ago, CWOReilly said:
I’d stick with the “B” since it’s meant for the Cornwall. Others may chime in with suggestions as well. Enjoy!
😀
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3 minutes ago, CWOReilly said:
I’d leave them alone if they sound good to you. And if you do decide to make changes, buy another set of crossovers and retain originals for later.
Great tip. Do I need to look for the same Type B or can another type be used? I have limited knowledge of this.
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15 minutes ago, MicroMara said:
that looks superb , no need to change anything
Thank you, @MicroMara
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Still available. Lowered price. Make me an reasonable offer!
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Location? thanks
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The goal was to to just switch amps, not preamp with one pair of speakers. So in looking into this, @muelwas right, my tube amp requires speaker load. A switch will not be a good fit for me.
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The SP 1 Amplifier/Speaker Selector looks great but a little too high at $220. The SOLUPEAK P2 looks decent but I dont understand in either case, how you connect your RCA from the amp to the banana plugs.
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Howdy,
I have a tube and solid state amp used with a Schitt Freya+ going to a pair of Cornwall III's. I'd like to switch to my solid state when not doing any serious listening during the day.
Can anyone recommend an affordable A/B switch that will do the job?
Thanks in advance
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Still in need of grills for my stained Cornwall's. Would like to put the money into a replacement vs trying to recover on my dodgy mounting boards.
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I was hoping for some sage advice on the Belden 9497 16 Gauge vs 12 Gauge Pyle Speaker Wire . Currently using the Pyle thinking less resistance was better for my CW1's.
Specifically looking at the Belden sold by HighEnd Audio Auctions - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Belden-9497-Speaker-Cable-16ft-Wire-Tube-Amp-Altec-Western-Electric-Shindo-/331941506380?
Audible difference?
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Terrific advice @dtr20 thank you!
Yet Another Cornwall I Crossover Post - 2023
in Solid State
Posted
Unfortunately, no difference because my caps were intact and looked good.