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CBlan1224

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Everything posted by CBlan1224

  1. I know this was about the klipsch Forte, but this becomes even more necessary when dealing with any floorstander on the RP line. Not sure who designed those crossovers, but the fact that they leave the factory with a 10db dip at the xo is unacceptable. These kits are upgrades in some cases, and fixes in others. I would also argue that going from polycaps to sonicaps, changing resistors and dampening the cabinet that will ring for 5 seconds when you knock on it, should not be understated as the final 10% of a speakers performance. This will improve any speaker. I'm sure the fortes have better parts than the rp6000,8000, and rf7's. These could be great speakers, all of them. They can perform well above their price point. I'll do my mains next. I just did the rp504c, which performed well to begin with, unlike the mains, but it was much cheaper, so I did that one first. There are brands that do much better with their crossovers and bracing at budget levels. Klipsch is taking advantage of their name. How low do your standards have to be....a 10db drop from 1000 to nearly 3500hz, so it is not a sharp drop at the xo. What aren't they telling us? It's like audyssey's midrange compensation(that everyone turns off), but built in. I don't get it
  2. The first thing you do is disconnect the binding posts when biamping. That defeats the ENTIRE purpose. You have to manually set it to biamp mode before you run audyssey, though, or it won't work as intended. There really should be a better step by step process, but one of the first things you see in the little quick guide you get from klipsch is to disconnect the binding posts for biamping. Bridging the binding posts and biamping can damage the speaker. The denon or marantz terminal config will even tell you which channels to use when passive biamping the fronts, but you can use any unused channel you want to biamp the speakers. I know this was old, but I wanted to clear this up for anyone who might be reading through this after the fact. It made an audible difference when biamping my rp6000fs. Now that I am using all 11 processing channels on the x4700h, im not able to do it, but I am running the mains off of a crown xls1002, which has proven extremely sufficient. I am looking into active biamping still, because I have a slight spike at the crossover point that can sometimes be annoying, in rare occasions. I could add audysseys mid range compensation which dips at the xo point to make up for this, but its very general, and I'm not a big fan of their mid range compression. Audyssey will automatically put mid range compression on all your speakers unless you use the multeq app(its $20, as I'm sure you know, but worth it). It is widely recommended to turn off midrange compression, at least until you recognize you may need it. Its also fun to cut off audyssey filters above 500hz, and adjust your own curves on your subs.
  3. Assuming audyssey helped? These speakers can run at close to full range on about 12 watts. This is because of how efficient these speakers are. The numbers they like to post are all distractions. How many watts a speaker needs to be powered is based on the efficiency rating and distance of MLP, not wattage. Edit: I just realized I'm responding to an old post. My fault. I'm sure you've done your research, trial and error and by now have a killer setup. Happy new year.
  4. Looking to get these speakers and do height channels also. Trading in my towers that have integrated height channels and just going with some rp6000f towers(after much debate between this and the 8000f. I got the rp500c for a good cyber Monday deal and from experience, it will match a 6.5" driver well. I'm not sure about the 8", so I'm not going to try and fix whats not broken. I've never needed more from previous 6.5" woofers as mains, and my x3700h probably isn't even coming close to full power, even bi-amped) Would be nice if ANYONE knew what this meant. I mean people have only been asking the same question over and over for years! The first time I ran audyssey, it set my integrated height channels in R26FA's to 60hz. Not that I trust audyssey's crossovers. It would be nice to know the frequency response. Because I don't know it, ill likely set them to 90, but we'll see. I'm running dual pb 1000s up to 200hz, so I can get away with crossovers in the 100-120 range if I want to be conservative. I have to say...adding the second sub really brings the system together. It no longer feels like the sub is a separate entity. It just sounds like all of my speakers are incredible full range speakers, if that makes sense. Well, I guess thats what the hype is about. Sorry to get off topic. This Dolby specification thing struck me as odd, but ill definitely be adding 4 RP500SA's as front and rear heights in the coming months, 2 at a time. I will need some tips on placement for the fronts with a 10 foot ceiling and MLP is about 13 feet from that wall. Ill find the perfect angle, im more concerned about the width. My room is small, so I don't have secondary listening positions beyond one "row". With the mains kicked out pretty wide and toed in, I was thinking somewhere symmetrical, just inside where the mains are. Suggestions on this? Do they have to be at least 6 feet apart? I was thinking about doing it just inside 6 feet. I know its recommended that mains are at least 6 feet apart, so I was wondering if that applied here also. Thanks.
  5. Hey guys. Interesting read. I guess we're all on the same path! I could not pass up that $289 for the RP500C last week, although the 600 would be nice. For now I've got some R41Ms as rears, which are actually quite capable speakers. Can't believe they are 114 for the pair. Theyll be the first to go, but I've got. Long way to go. I sold my R26FA's, R52C, and R12swi. I got the rp500c, im going to get the rp6000f, and after all the research I've done...the only sub that seems to be very high quality that I can afford is a pb1000, so I'm going duals, over a single pb2000 pro. I get a lot of bass related info from subwoofer101. Its a small YouTube channel and a website where he recommends subs he's tested. They have deep bass. I know this is a klipsch site, so I won't say anything besides that the r12swi wasn't a good fit. I LOVE this new tweeter in the RP I mean...wow. I got this center channel and started selling off everything! I, also, am kinda debating the rp8000f but I don't know about it with the 500c. I could take that $200 savings from the 8000 to the 6000 and use it to replace the 500 with the 600, I suppose. Next, ill get 2 rp500SA's at a time. I'm not doing the bouncy house atmos anymore. I'm going "front height" with them. Meaning, on the wall. Powered by the x3700h that I wish was an x4700h. But it'll do the trick. But yea the svs PB1000 dual is where I'm going. 950 shipped. Huge investment, but they've been the best deal on the market for a very long time now. Don't be afraid that they're 10s. They weigh 20lbs more than my klipsch 12. 47-48 pounds! Down to 17hz...and maybe more importantly, the klipsch wouldn't go above 120, and I like to set my lfe at 200hz with my speaker crossovers a little higher than THX. I'm building a real room, but I don't move in until March. So I have a very specific sound at the moment in the living area of my APARTMENT. I hate it. Still going duals.
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