analogman

Watch the bay area craigslist - they come up regularly Only rub is, the HBRs seldom show up which someone hasn't already applied some sort of finish, but it does happen Right now only a single, AND, it's still "raw" which isn't the norm - if you had posted this a couple weeks ago there were at least three pairs being offered (and one ridiculously bad black paint job pair on risers for $750 in Redwood City (Shores)) You're in a good spot for craigslist Heresys though Craig

It's best to NOT add mass (or as little as is possible) on any cone repairs - passive or dynamic There is no good reason to add any material, or mass, to undamaged areas of the cone Primer may make things look good but is not the best choice, although I too have used it in the past (repairs done decades ago) Ink, or a permanent water based dye is preferable

I don't think anything Klipsch is going to mate well with anything VMPS I live in Concord, CA and visited VMPS many times before they closed their doors ; - (, so I know their sound well Had a friend in Clayton who kept all the big models in constant rotation in a room about the size of a glove compartment! It's not that there is anything wrong about the Klipsch, but the voicing differences between how a Klipsch product "presents" and anything VMPS is GINORMOUS I don't think it'll ever sound "right" in the middle of two VMPS towers - it is a cardboard box when compared to the former as for balls

That is an extremely good amp - one of the better integrateds Onyko ever built and fairly unusual to find If it's been sitting unused for years, I'd bring it up slowly, use a dim bulb at least It is also an amp worth servicing - it's a keeper - but it's also a fairly complicated amp - so again, bring it on line easy Nicest thing about it's architecture is it used a lot of modular executions on the chassis rather than the typical single (or two) ginormous boards with everything crammed onto it typical of the time Sort of a throw back to the '70s in good quality, especially for an amp that came out at the dawn of the black plastic crap period You got some nice stuff Craig

Depends on the room and how much freedom you have to move around to incorporate them with the room acousticaly (in other words, sometimes you can't have what's "best" due to the constraints the room and it's contents put on you) Shape, dimensions and what you have in it An SPL level meter and experimentation (as has already been suggested) are the way to go

Play them - any issues will reveal themselves I doubt you will have any if they were working and then just shut down and allowed to sit May have to clean things up a bit but otherwise you should be good to go Don't blast them right at first to give the woofer and the diaphragms a chance to wake/limber up - an hour or so at moderate volume While playing at sane volume levels listen for anything that sounds obviously unhappy - you'll know it when you hear it Congratulations for your good fortune Craig

Can't find the old craigslist link (no screen save) post, but that is the second time a discolored/no color Forte dust cap has surfaced here in the past couple weeks That's not the same pair another forum member just had up for sale is it? Those no pigment caps are not a defect or damaged - they left the factory that way - seen it on more than a few pairs (and other brands of speakers too) - the pulp slurry just never got the pigment or not enough of it anyway I've had too many to count off colored caps and cones from the "norm" (that appeared to have suffered some sort of sun damage or injury when in fact they had not) - especially on vintage JBL, right out of the box - it happens and doesn't mean any defect but only that a given cone or cap was produced from a different batch of pulp Klipsch (when P.W.K. was still alive) NEVER threw away anything that would still function "OK" Klipsch Kg4s were the worst - tons of them left the factory with wrinkled dust caps Just repair the one you have, it will function just fine and if you take your time that wound can be repaired in such a way as you will never notice it Use isopropyl alcohol to just dampen the wound and press it back into to proper shape (and you may not even have to to that, try pressing it back in place dry first - I have just found that the alcohol relaxes the fibers so things stay in place until it dries - after the alcohol has thoroughly dried, paint the back of the wound with Titebond or similar, any good quality PVA will be fine - the fibers will absorb the glue and the repair will be as strong if not stronger than the paper If the aesthetic of that dust cap bothers you and you are so inclined you can fix off colored black caps with REAL India ink and a soft brush - go easy and don't soak the paper - just put the color back - load the brush lightly and make ONE pass and allow to dry - then repeat IF and only if needed Ink won't add any mass either

KLIPSCH badge shipped today AR still available Thank you to all who helped out Craig

I don't know why (you care what others think) if you like the one(s) you have To each his own I guess Take care

Why do you care what "others" have to say, but since you asked for it: First, stop reading what others say about equipment on-line, especially equipment you already own Second, ADCOM is very good quality equipment, well designed and serviceable and has been well received by the "professional reviewer" types since their inception, but more importantly so, the folks who bought their stuff Third, I do not know, and never have known what "entry level" means I just know good sounding equipment when I hear it ADCOM's got that covered

What does any of this crap have to do with your initial suggestion of going to a trophy shop? I think I also should point out (for future reference) those copper Klipsch badges are NOT engraved, they are struck

He confirmed so it looks like a go

A business posting as "for sale by owner" Gets the flaggers going everytime

If I don't hear back from him by the end of today confirming, it's yours

If it's just a (small) tear, push it back in place and paint over it on the back with Elmer's or Titebond - you're done If the tear won't lay flat and smooth when pressed in to place, use a soft brush and apply some isopropyl alcohol to the wound (dampen do NOT soak) then press/form the wound back together After the alcohol dries (over night) the wound will be smooth and imperceptible Then, just apply the glue on the back - the fibers in the cone will adsorb the glue The cigarette paper suggestion is an excellent and time proven one but is overkill for a small wound Reserve using paper for large tears and punctures

I doubt that - and if they could (you find a shop with the skill and the tools) it's going to cost you more than just buying a pair of originals (LABOR) Even the guys selling the metal repros can't/don't do the registered trademark symbol (or the "INC" on the original square AR stuff)

Where is that resistor in the circuit? How long does it take to blow? When does it blow (immediately after turn on, after playing hard, after some time etc?) If mains AC hits it directly on turn, or if it immediately follows the first filter caps, then a 1 watt rating is too low. The plate amps of this era also suffered the cap plague. On most of the ones I've repaired the lowest power related resistors have all been 5 watts or better Need to see where it is The zeners are cheap on these and commonly fail as well Also, check for bad solder joints (you will probably find more than few) Most but not all of the amps on powered subs (all brands) are built about as well as stock PC power supplies - they don't anticipate anyone repairing them - just replacing It's "OK", meaning safe, to beef up (over rate) certain parts from "factory" IF everything else is checked out and all your voltages are "OK" after you make your diagnosis/repair(s) Most of these amps were designed to only last a few years (same as stock PC switching PWR supplies) - "they" build these things just as close to the edge as is possible and still work I have a BassCube 12S on the bench right now going into shut down after it gets hot Inspect all the boards carefully and pay close attention to the electrolytics Good hunting!

I'd love to hear your/that system playing some classic era Jazz if that's possible, like "Something Else", or even something "new" like "Love Scenes" Nice! Thanks for the video Craig

That's why, and when you just pick up the phone and talk to the seller, not the whole forum

Edgar5453 makes no claim that they are pristine, just nice and fully functional His asking price is reasonable and he has mentioned all of the defects with full disclosure What more could you want? It's at the point where you go and take a look at them, and LISTEN or you pass - not lecture on how to post a for sale ad - it's also why I only deal with folks on the phone after the initial response to a craigslist ad (rather than trying to interpret "pics" on a computer monitor via emails and posts) It's a losing game I don't know why so many looky-loos feel the need to comment on things they have absolutely no intention of buying Also a good example of why "pics" (the typical) mean very little (most of the time) Serious potential buyers go and look at the goods at this point - this pair is nice but definitely a local sale pair to be cost effective (I'd consider them local but wouldn't pay shipping on a pair like this) Good luck with your sale Edgar5453

I'm not 100% (could not swear by it) but I do not think that is a Klipsch woofer in that photo This pair (first post) is correct going by all the examples I have seen: https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/114427-whats-the-difference/

The Klipsch badge is already spoken for unless SiliconTi tells me he's changed his mind See above But to address dimensions, it is the same badge used on all the Heritage models during this period as well as the Kg4, Chorus, Heresy II etc 3" x 1/2"

He was breaking new ground with the design Yes, there was a learning curve and growing pains The original era Phase Linears can be modified today to make things reliable by any competent tech I know of more than a few early models still pumping out tunes to this day - and safely and reliably so Bob Carver was exploring (at the time) uncharted waters The "Flame Linear" pile ons are typical group think insults perpetrated through the years by folks who have never even been in the same room with one - let alone actually heard one On the other hand (or foot if you prefer) KENWOOD, to cite but one example, had more than it's share of huge power output but VERY unstable amps - going into oscillation and worse - all required mods (plenty-o-factory bulletins and letters to owners) but you never hear about them today, now do you? And they were poplar models too, not some obscure stuff It's amazing how long garbage can linger

The Minwax is a wiping varnish - same stuff essentially that's packaged under several (many) names and often time making a reference to "tung oil" or "tung oil finish" Few of them, if any, actually contain any tung oil Straight, 100% tung oil does yield a fantastic finish but takes a LOT of time to cure as well as multiple applications The one I liked the most (in the "wiping varnish catagory) was "JASCO" but I can't find it any more - they also make paint strippers and the plant is local to me BUT the JASCO stuff really put down a heavy film so was only good for gloss or if you planned on a rub out - the working time is also very short ACE marketed (under their name, Zinsser actually made it) the best I have ever used overall but have discontinued it - that fact is what led me to the Minwax version (very similar) when I'm doing a project that calls for a thick film It's a top coat - doesn't really feed the wood but it does look nice (I have used it many times, including the Minwax branded stuff in the red tin) I've since switched to Watco exclusively (less solids, more control and longer working time) IF I'm looking to seal the grain but not load up the surface No matter what I do for the finish coat I always go over a cab with BLO and turpentine first before I do anything else - makes the grain pop and gives you more depth On dark Walnut pieces I often use just the BLO and turpentine as the final finish - can't beat it Your photo looks nice - glad you found something that worked for you

Yes, thank you for steering a connection Happy to see this one help finish a project Best regards Craig