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Frontino

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Everything posted by Frontino

  1. I was looking to buy some models of the new THX Ultra line, but I've stumbled into a review on Trustpilot about the 6000-LCR saying that the new paint can peel off and fall in flakes. If any of you owns these new models, could you share your experience with the new coating used? Thanks.
  2. So, I'm planning on purchasing a monoblock for the KL-650-THX, but with a power rating within the speaker's capability. Klipsch rate it at 150 W max continuous and 600 W peak, but that's kind of useless without knowing the type of signal used. By looking at the impedance chart, there are 2 dips in the woofers bandwidth: 4 ohms between 150-250 Hz and 5 ohms at the port tuning between 50-60 Hz. Which do you think is the most demanding and how many watts could this speaker handle into that? Thanks.
  3. The dealer told me that the adhesive of the driver (or drivers) liquefied and the cause cannot be determined with certainty. I have no idea where this adhesive (or maybe he meant "glue" in german) is supposed to be in the KL-650-THX's tweeter. Do you think I could have caused that by driving it too hard with my amp? But why would that happen to the 650 and not to the R-51M?
  4. I still don't understand if, when I measure a full scale sine with a multimeter and look for 2.83 Vrms from an amp speaker output, leaving the volume knob as is, would that voltage change when fed to a loudspeaker? Also, I made a test once with a Yamaha RX-V381 powering a R-51M and a KL-650-THX, both brand new, and played the battlefield sequence of Tenet downmixed in stereo (LFE discarded). Consider that the Yamaha outputs a 100 Hz full scale sine at 2.83 Vrms at -22.3 from nominal 0 (according to a PeakTech 3441) and clips above -4.5 (22 Vrms) from nominal 0 when all 3 front channels are saturated with the same sine. During Tenet, the R-51M was -9.5 from nominal 0 and the KL-650-THX was at -11; all went well and the amp never shut off. After that test, I played a 500-2000 Hz -20 dBFS pink noise. The R-51M sounded clean up to nominal 0, which is ~94.5 dBA at 1 meter, the 650's tweeter crackled a lot already at -5. I wish I performed the pink noise test before Tenet, so I would know for certainty if the 650 was like that out of the box or if it got damaged by the amp during Tenet. What do you think is the most probable scenario? Thanks.
  5. OK, but even more delicate than the one used in the Reference Basic series, though? I'm having a hard time believing that, because my R-51M are still intact after playing the very same content (Batman Begins and Tenet at an uncalibrated -11 dB for the 650 and -9.5 dB for the 51 on the Yamaha RX-V381). No, what I think happened is that, since the KL-650-THX is OOP and replaced by the THX-6000-LCR, they sold me an RMA unit not thouroghly tested and simply repackaged by either Klipsch or the Austrian fulfillment center and ultimately sent to me. Indeed, at first, the austrian dealer, from which I bought the 650, couldn't find anything wrong with it when playing simple music. Only after I sent him a file containing -20 dBFS band limited pink noise and told him to play that with a McIntosh up to at least 1 Watt on the meter, he finally heard the tweeter crackling.
  6. Can the balanced input terminals of the KDA-1000 be connected to the speaker outputs of an AV receiver in order to use the latter as a preamplifier?
  7. 1. It's only one speaker and yes, I bought it last July and already started an RMA. 2. Sadly, no, I only have the V381 and if I looked for one just 3dB more powerful, I'd have to spend several thousands EUR, whilst the R-51Ms can play beyond reference level with the V381 just fine. 3. Yes, I tried different wires and got same problem. 4. No, the crackling comes out only from the KL-650's tweeter. The KL-650's woofers and the full R-51Ms play fine up to volume 0, which gives me the assumption that the problem is not the Yamaha, otherwise everything would crackle.
  8. I seriously doubt that: 1. The R-51M goes up to volume 0 with no distortion. 2. The pink noise has peaks of -10 dBFS digital, which on the Yamaha amount to 20 W at 2.83 Vrms. The distortion occurs even if I connect just the tweeter to the Yamaha and nothing else, meaning a pass band of 1400-2000 Hz and impedance of 9-11 ohms. If the Yamaha can't drive even that at 1 W continous, how can it drive the R-51M with almost 2 W continous and peaks of 34 W when I push it at volume 0?
  9. Sorry, ignore my last post. I forgot to reset channels trims to 0 before testing the KL-650 again. The crackling still occurs but this time I noticed that it did not start to distort right away, but it took something like a second after pushing the AVR close to 2.83 Vrms.
  10. Uhm... Ok... I don't know what happened exactly, but today I reconnected the speaker to my AVR, after putting it back in the box for a few days, and now it works perfectly. I think the issue was not related to the tweeter itself, but something else: maybe a loose wire?
  11. Hello, everyone. I was testing my newly purchased KL-650-THX connected to a Yamaha RX-V381 and when I played band limited pink noise to set reference level I discovered that the tweeter clips a lot when I push my receiver above -10 dB. The noise is mixed with RMS level of -20 dBFS sine wave with peaks of -10 dBFS. In comparison, the R-51M plays clean even at -3 dB on the receiver. When looking at the impedance chart of the KL-650 from Audioholics, I see that from the 1400 Hz crossover frequency to the low pass frequency of the pink noise, which is 2 KHz, the tweeter swings between 9 and 11 ohms, which does not seem that much hard to drive for an RX-V381. Is the tweeter faulty? Do your KL-650s play band limited noise clean when pushed above 85 dB SPL? Thanks.
  12. This is the fundamental + harmonic distorsion of the R-41M. Does it look good? How much could the R-51M best that? Do you know where I can find a similar measurement for the KL-650-THX?
  13. I looked into the specifications sheet of the powered model R-51PM and it says the following: MAX OUTPUT 107.3 dB TOTAL SYSTEM POWER 120W Total System Power (140W Peak) 60W per channel cont. @ <%1 THD Considering that the R-51M are rated at 85 W of continuous power, what kind of performance should I expect at 12.5 V input?
  14. I forgot to mention that I set speaker distance manually in my AVR (with active sub channel, but nothing connected, because I hate low frequencies and also because it's the only way to apply crossover to all 3 front speakers). Could that lead to unnatural phase response for the speakers, since adjusting the distances in the AVR changes the phase of each channel? I ask that because, if phase is frequency dependent for speakers, wouldn't changing the phase in the AVR (by setting distance) cause phase issues depending on type of sounds in the soundtrack? Do cinemas adjust speakers phase too?
  15. With the movies I tested so far at reference (Ad Astra, Tenet and Annihilation), the unpleasant resonances I hear come mostly with nasal sillables from both female and male voices and with music passages through midhigh octaves (so, above 1K). Considering that the R-51M stand along the front border of a MDF desk in an untreated room, do you think those factors could be more influencial than high voltage transients?
  16. Thanks to all of you for your inputs. According to my math, from 2.83 to 12.35 V there should be a 12.8 dB gain, no? Considering that I get 85 dBC per speaker with Dolby's noise at 1 meter with my RX-V381 set to -9.5 and that full scale sine wave at 2.83 V stands at -22.3, what are the chances that the R-51M is already going into power compression at 0 dBFS?
  17. Hello. Does anyone know what is the percentage of THD at Klipsch's rated continuous power for their speakers? Personally, I've got three R-51M that I'm running as front channels for movies. With a voltage output at 0 dBFS RMS as 12.35 Vrms per speaker, what amount of distorsion might there be? Thank you.
  18. Would it be dangerous if I connected the amplifier's left channel + and - at the top posts of a single loudspeaker and the right channel + and - at the lower posts of the same speaker while keeping the dual posts bridged?
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