RickD

I took a look at the Yamaha amps and I didn't particularly like the feel of the controls. Sound was ok. I am thinking about the Cambridge CXA-61 or 81. I need to take an hour drive to listen to one.

Good idea, I'll check it out. Thanks.

My McIntosh MA352 is a good fit for my modified Khorns, sound is spectacular. I can't justify spending that kind of money for an amp to drive bookshelf speakers. The Yamaha amps suggested are more reasonable.

Thanks everybody for the suggestions. The VU/Power Meters on my McIntosh are accurate so I can test the speakers and see what power they really need. My Khorns seldom reach 1 watt. What to do with the other 199? These RP-160s will require a little more.

$1000 or less is affordable.

Thank-you 001 - I'll check out that A-S 501. Amazon sells it which is always nice.

Hello - I've got a pair of RP-150M bookshelf speakers that I picked up at a sale awhile back. I wasn't sure how good the quality of sound they could produce until I connected them up to my McIntosh MA-352. Although they aren't in the same league as my khorns, they do sound pretty good for such a small speaker. I'm looking for some ideas on a not to expensive integrated amp that is able to drive these speakers. I've read they need at least 60w per channel. I'll probably upgrade the DAC in my main system (RME ADI-2 DAC FS) and use the RME in the bedroom. Ideas will be appreciated. Thanks.

I have similar room layout except my short wall is 4.5' long and adjacent windows in both corners. 18' foot ceilings. At first I thought the window would be a problem, however they just seem to attenuate the bass. I raise the blinds to the height of the bass bin. I found high frequency notes reflecting off of the long wall from the opposing speaker but it was not annoying and now I don't really notice it. Before you remove your vinyl collection I would give it a test run and see how things play out. It's a lot easier to leave them in place if the sound is ok than to relocate them

I've got my Khorns backed into corners with adjacent 6' windows with the bottoms of the windows about 8" off the floor. I pull the blinds down to the tops of the bass bins. The windows extend about 18" from the front edge of the speakers.Bass is excellent, I think the windows actually amplify the low end. While sitting in my recliner I can feel low end vibrations in the leather. Movement of the glass can be felt by placing fingers on the glass. No rattling or distortion can be detected by my ears. The windows are double pane wood framed sashes.

I have a cabinet with pan-locks that was from my now deceased MCD7000. The cabinet is in nice shape, not perfect, it has dings on the rear corners of the cabinets. Not visible from the front. I'd take $150 plus shipping if anyone is interested.

What material are the ZXPCs made of?

How long does vinyl last before it goes in the dumpster?

I've got a pair of grills with K400s and K55-M drivers for sale

I would replace the crossovers with ALK's crossovers. I recently modified my 87 Khorns and the result was fantastic. I spent about $4500 total, replaced the crossover with Al's extreme slope, Greg's mid horn with BMS drivers. DE2 tweeters with DaveA's lenses. People that visit who are not into audio have said great it sounds. Comments like it's as if the musicians were in the living room. The speakers sound bigly better than the new AK6's in the dealers listening room

Sorry for the late reply, the corrections I needed were male vs female vocals and piano. Much of it I believe is related to break-in period. New Amp, new crossovers, new drivers, new dac. I installed Equalizer APO on the Windows 10 server and use a remote connection to a small laptop to control the levels. A relative recommended a DEQX unit for auto correction, but can't spend any more this year.

I'm surprised that the K55 appeals to anyone but I realize we all hear things in a different way.

Don't worry, the candy will run out eventually.

I shouldn't have spent the money. Now my chores are getting neglected.

I bought Al's Extreme Slope Cross Overs. I didn't care for the K55m driver much. First thing I did was purchase Crites A/4500hz crossover and CT120. Sound was much improved, probably due to 30 year old caps in the original xover and getting rid of the K77s. But the muddled mid-range was still there. Next I bought a pair of wood horns from Greg Roberts, again the sound improved, the muddled mid-range seemed to be pushed further back in the sound stage but it was still there. After installing Al's ESS and the BMS driver. Everything sounds great. Took awhile to get the auto-transformer set correctly but the complete mod of the KHorns was worth the money. My total investment was more than 9 grand less than a pair of AK6s, including the price I paid for the speakers new. The K55-M drivers may appeal to some but I like seeing them sitting on my workbench. If there are better mid-range drivers than the 4592s I haven't run across them. I'm not into spending more money in the near future, but if better technology comes along I will consider it. Since not all recordings are done by the same tech or sound boards, I have a parametric EQ that I use to make adjustments. I use a PC as a music source and control via remote desktop.

I myself haven't used any solid core wiring or pumped a 100 watts into my woofer (if I did I would no longer need a hifi). My speakers are Khorns and the watt meters on my McIntosh rarely have seen over .02 watts even though I have 200 per channel. My point is that speaker wires don't play a big part in the end result. The dealer I bought my speakers from lent me some very expensive cables and I or anyone who listened to them could tell a difference between the high end cable and monster cable. One day I'll connect some Cat 6 wire to my system and see if it sounds any different than the 12ga wiring I currently use. Regarding Skin Effect it seems logical that there would be less resistance with multi strand wire of say 12ga vs solid core of 12ga due to the increase of available skin.

Does a single conductor make a positive difference for you? From what I've read the current flow through a conductor induces a magnetic field which produces eddy currents forcing the flow of electrons to the surface of the conductor in what is known as the "Skin Effect" therefore stranded wire provides more surface area for electons to flow. Frequency plays a part in this but at the moment I can't recall the specifics.

Just to clarify are your solid copper wires stranded speaker wires or single conductor like Romex?

I'm 65 and I have an equalizer APO running on windows, if the eq is accurate I can hear up to 19k and down to a little below 30hz if the equalizer is accurate. I'm happy with Greg's horns and noticed an immediate difference even when I was still using the K55Ms. I'm using Al's Extreme slope crossovers. Overall I am extremely please with the sound of this system. The reason I was asking about the LMAHLs is I started out earlier in the year with Crite's crossover but it did not do much to improve the midrange. I kept the tweeters/DE120s and later replaced the lenses with Dave's SMAHLs. I can't really say what the difference was. I installed a SMAHL in one speaker and then moved it to the other. My focus seemed to follow the SMAHL. Not very scientific but when I installed both SMAHLs I appreciated the high end more. These horns are the only speakers I've had and I am on my fourth amplifier. Started out with a Marantz, then Carver, Accurus and this year a McIntosh MA352. By far the best. Thanks for you input

Claude - I am currently using SMAHLs w/ DE-120s in my Klipschorns. Is there a big difference between those and the LMAHLs w/ DE-10s? I believe I have room for larger tweeter lenses since I am using Volti's squawker and the tweeter motorboard is cut for a Beyma tweeter. I made an adapter to fit the SMAHLs.

Look on-line for a speaker cabinet builder. Some will cut the cabinet boards for you and ship as a flat pack. Greg Roberts (Volti) restores klipsch speakers and veneers. Might be pricey. www.Klipschupgrades.com Good Luck