Micklipsch

Ok, cool. How about in the case of these Heresys that are in fine shape and just need maintenance? That trade secret spray, or something like Watco’s rejuvenating oil?

Would you use the trade secret first, then finish with an oil wipe down, in the case of an oiled walnut finish?

Decent deal? Or about market value?

On Facebook marketplace. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/540482191572941/

Nice work! You probably know but you could snag a number of aftermarket replica or quasi-replica badges from eBay that'd probably be more than acceptable given you ventured outside of a factory restore. I think this would look pretty cool, gold coming out of the all-black background. But they have pies and whatever else, too. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=klipsch+badges&_sacat=0

Seems more testing is in order. I'd like to see when Audioholics gets ahold of the RP-1600. But this seems pretty cool and promising, especially given the stark price differences. The Klipsch will probably go on sale at some point too, whereas the SVS stuff only goes up. lol

Absolutely. When the caps are on and I've got them placed in a 2 channel setup. Hoping by end of week whenever caps and adhesive arrives.

Thanks! Not much effort and they landed around 90% without thinning/ stripping/ sanding, which is great. I should've posted the grilles taking a shower. The grime running off them after probably decades of neglect is always satisfying. Just need to get the new radiator dust caps on, patch the one woofer--or replace whenever my WTB post hits--and I'll basically call it good.

Yep. Like I have these two disused CF2 cabinets and they certainly look oak underneath the satin black. I read that Klipsch sends its rejects (in that case these were probably slated to be a light or medium oak) straight to black paint, or atleast used to. On the other hand, my satin black CF4s are ash. Question--those KG 4.2s, is that exactly how they looked after stripping/ sanding? Nothing applied to give them those brown and blonde colors?

Anyone had luck or have a line on getting this size? All the places I've checked either don't have the size in poly or they're lipless. Thanks!

No prob. There’s restoration pros on the forum that you should definitely follow as well. This guy took his ash wood, black factory painted Choruses, stripped it all off and refinished with a clear stain. They look absolutely stunning. I’m really tempted to do this to my satin black CF4s.

In my amatuer opinion and from what happened with mine, you're going to end up lightening those areas up with the magic eraser (yes it's Mr. Clean brand). Since the damage covers such a large surface area rather than a few small spots that could be covered with a quarter like mine, it might be best to just use the eraser with mineral spirits over the entire top until you get a uniform fade, then come with multiple applications of that same golden oak restor-a-finish until it's to your best liking, then seal with your beeswax, wiping on and buffing off with a cloth, likely doing multiple coats until there's excess remaining after a 20 minute dry time. I was faced with the same dilemma of just stripping/ sanding off the tops then trying best to match with the sides but I'm not sure how that might have turned out, and at worst may have lead to stripping/ sanding the entire cab if the differences were stark. I feel what I did was a happy medium. If I were to strip or thin, then lightly sand in the future, I'd probably consider moving to an oiled finish as @Iteachstemsuggested. I have some disused CF2 cabs in black that I want to practice on, stripping, filling etc to get technique down. They seem to be oak underneath the satin black which leads me to believe they were factory rejects (I've read Klipsch would send rejected specimens straight to black paint), since I believe ash was otherwise used for satin black finishes.

Title says it all. Thanks

Hey, thanks. After a wipe down and spot treatment with a magic eraser, I used the two products pictured, restor-a, then beeswax. I also hit some of the heavier trouble areas with 0000 steel wool dipped in the restor-a. I’ll probably order some trade secret since @OO1 vouches pretty hard for it to see what more it can do in my case, but, the results I already got are pretty satisfactory. It’s originally what I wanted to do: get them looking 90% or so without getting invasive with thinners, strippers, or sanding. I’m still applying beeswax until I see excess sitting on the wood after 20 minute or so wait times. I’ll throw some pics up after that’s done. Other than that, I’m just replacing the two radiator dust caps and repairing the tear in the one woofer, which’ll due until I source another K-10-K, purely for aesthetics.

And these are with the wax buffed off the top. I plan to do another few coats of it and let it sit overnight as the oak just soaked it up.

That magic eraser sure does work. I suspected though, it took a bit of the finish off with it. The finish is very sensitive so I figured it would happen, but I’d rather banish the stains than deal with evening out the color later. Some pics during, and after a mineral spirits and water wipe down, then, with restore a finish, and one of the tops with wax applied, but not buffed out yet

Is the rest of my statement accurate though regarding refinishing these? I’m trying to determine if these are indeed just a clear lacquer on raw oak.

Now, if I were pursuing a refinish of these, after using lacquer thinner, and possibly light sanding, I would just follow up with some of this and it would impart the same coloring of the oak that’s on it currently? And if so, satin or matte?

Going with this two-step process versus the Trade Secret as this is available today in store and I can get my American instant gratification on.

They also have these shades, but I just don’t know what’s gonna come close enough to Klipsch’s Clear Oak. And I take it it’s a little different than their light oak.

Gotcha. I’m leaning towards around 400 grit. Using this to fill in the small chipped veneer part. I think the color should land close enough and it’s nice it has wood fibers in it. Saves me from having to saw cut a piece of wood to save the dust and mix with glue. Also saves on buying a coloring pencil.

50/50 MS and water, correct? Very nice looking work, per usual. An orbital is acceptable and will not create odd hazing vs something like a belt sander going parallel with the grain? If so, great because I have orbitals and don't feel like investing in belt types at this very moment. So with the clear oak from Klipsch, do you guys think it's just raw oak, untinted with a lacquer, or what do you guys think is on here exactly?

If I can manage to remove those red stains on the top of one of them with that olive oil and salt trick, perhaps I won't even need to refinish the tops?