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Dustin B

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  1. That's easy, DIY will win hands down. Either build a massive infinite baffle, or a massive horn. $5000 would buy 32 Adire Tempest drivers (I'm counting on a bit of a discount that I'm sure could be had with the number being purchased). Then get a QSC PLX2402 or 3002. Build some simple manifolds, mount the drivers and wire them up to an appropriate load. Infinite baffle subs are so easy to drive that 3000W at 4 ohms would be oodles. For comparison the B4+ can displace ~8L of air. This setup would displace over 80L. Full reference level to below 16hz in larger rooms should be no problem. With horn loaded subs. The Lab12 project designed by Tom Danley should work well. Build 4-8 of these, get some advice on extending the horn mouths and placement from Mark Seaton and in a moderately sized home theater room you should be good for well over 140dB from 30hz and up. Will depend on the horn mouth extensions, number used and placement as to how well you can do under 30hz. Might be tricky to get sufficient wattage for this setup though with a $5000K budget.
  2. The point of polyfill in a sub box isn't to absorb bass frequencies. The main use is to increase the appearant Vb the driver sees. http://www.integracaraudio.com/caraudio/resources/fiberfill/
  3. IMO the cable run options are six of one half dozen of the other. Which ever is cheaper/more convient for you will work fine. As for what to expect. A big silly grin on your face for several days.
  4. That's a big *** sub yes, but for the ultimate sub driver I'd have to go with this: http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/Dan/Parthenon/
  5. Port cross sectional area has a big effect on how loud a sub can play around its tuning frequency. Plugging 2 ports on a PB2+ will limit a PB2+ to doing only slightly better in output than a 16-46PCi in the last octave.
  6. That sub goes way way past the point of diminishing returns. Go to a custom build shop like Acoustic Visions or Rutledge Audio and they'll build you a clone of that thing with Adire Tumults, 1.5" thick baltic birch enclosure (will need to be a little bigger than the Krell) and a sweet veneered finish. Add a high power Crown or QSC amp and some appropriate pro audio piece to get you all the filters and EQ you need and you'll have a sub just as, if not more capable for ~1/4 the cost. Oh and there's no way that thing will do 120dB in room at the bottom of the last octave. Not gonna happen(unless you room is a closet). Something like the Acoustic Visions Everest might come close at the bottom of the last octave in room though.
  7. Both the SS and B4 will sound great. The SS will play lower. The B4 is equivalent in output to ~3 SS subs everywhere except the bottom of the last octave.
  8. The shape of the enclosure has no effect at all on the sound quality. The alignment is how an enclosure effects the sound. ie, what the net internal volume is and what the porting is (port cross sectional area and the choosen tuning point). The driver, power available and EQ also have effects. How much each of the above will vary the sound depends on which one is different and by how much. A cylinder has the advantages of not needing bracing to become rigid enough to not color the sound. They are also lighter, easier to build and cheaper than MDF boxes. Box subs when braced properly are just as good as a cylinder sub from a rigidity stand point. The extra weight can be an advantage in some situations. Boxes are easier to offer multiple finishing options on. All the SVS models will sound very similar when played insides the limits of the least capable model. You're more likely to be able to tell the difference between a 16-46PCi and 25-31PCi (and this will be tough if the material doesn't go very low) than you are the difference between a 20-39PCi and a PC-Ultra. They all sound very very similar. The difference comes in the output capabilities. When the 25-31PCi is past it's limits, straining and not sounding so hot anymore, the PC-Ultra will still sound great. Bottom line decide what you want on cost, asthetic, space and output considerations. When in the SVS lineup, sound quality isn't a consideration you need to make, they all sound so similar it doesn't matter. With that budget a PC+ sub would be an obvious choice. But if you have a moderate to large room the PB2 ISD would be worth the little extra you'll pay.
  9. Bassreflex enclosure using a single active driver and a single passive radiator. http://www.stryke.com/prfaq.htm
  10. Not really important but I think there should be a clarification of dynamic range. Subs often have more dynamic range than main speakers. Dynamic range is the differences between how quiet and how loud they can get. Where there is a big difference is in the range of frequencies they play (pass band, bandwidth, and many other terms for this). But I do completely agree with the underlying intention of your post. Sub tastes can be divided into 2-4 categories that pretty much everyone would fit in. While main speakers have a much greater variance in how they sound and what people like.
  11. I'd talk with John as Styke to really nail down a design. But given that info I guess I'd recommend shrinking the enclosure to a little less than 3ft^3 to get the tuning point up to 25hz or so. 3ft^3 is between an Adire Rava and Adire Dharman in size. The sticky point will be the crossover between your Heresys speakers and this sub. You definately don't want to feed your Heresys the speaker level output of any sub plate amp. I don't know if it can be done, you'll have to look into it some more, but I think you'll have to hook your amps speaker level outputs to both the sub plate amps speaker level inputs and your Heresys in parallel. Then adjust the crossover dial on the plate amp until you get a nice blend with your mains. No plate amp has a good speaker level high pass, and most don't even have a decent line level one. I'm not famaliar enough with this older equipment. If you can run line level from somewhere to the sub plate amp and then to your tube amp that would be the best option, but only if you dish out for something like the Adire HS series plate amps.
  12. That would make an excellent combination. Go with 3ft^3 though, not 2ft^3. Also buy a bunch of polyfill stuffing from walmart and lightly pack the enclosure with it. This will increase the apparent box volume to the driver and PRs and lower your tuning frequency the last little bit needed to get to a 20hz tuning point. Find out if the cabinet is braced at all though first. If it's not braced well I wouldn't recommend using it. If it's not you could always see what http://www.acoustic-visions.com/ or http://www.rutledgeaudiodesign.com could build for you in the way of an enclosure. They can go from just a flat kit all the way to a fully assembled unit or anywhere in between. Few questions though, what type of music are you into and at what levels do you want to listen? What receiver or pre/pro are you using? Is this a two channel system? What speakers are you using?
  13. The PR is doing what it's supposed to, stopping and starting that quick. When it gets right down to it, really not much difference between a port and a passive radiator. With the air pressure forces generated inside (and outside) a sub for that matter, doesn't shock me at all that a PR that weighs from 1-3kg can be made to stop and start in a fraction of a second. The Stryke FAQ on passive radiators is pretty good at giving the basics on the subject. http://www.stryke.com/prfaq.htm
  14. A review with measurements in the same room has already been done. http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_8_4/subwoofers-12-2001.html
  15. I'd take Adire's Brahma series over any JL Audio sub Just shy of 28mm one way Xmax, their XBL^2 motor topology, and $350/$380/$440 (10"/12"/15") to boot.
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