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Everything posted by Cantilope

  1. I cannot speak for others, but I purchased mine as part of my Jubilee order. I am pretty sure you need to also purchase the driver. Which in my humble opinion is still worth it.
  2. Follow up and review of the K402 MEH. After a few weeks and many hours of use, I would like to solidify that I believe this to be an awesome and amazing speaker. It is painted, and being used and it just plain rocks. I won't pretend to even understand any of the measurements and what not provided within this thread, but I will say, with my ears, I prefer this MEH over my KLF-30's, KLF-C7, Cornwalls, and even the Belles. Absolutely a winner. If you have the ability to craft this, you will not be disappointed. Amazing soundstage, flat response, and low power requirements, what more could you ask for. Build this! 2 of these and a horn loaded sub and you'd never leave your listening chair. I want to also note that I have am now using the TAD 4002 as I had originally planned. If you ever have the opportunity to hear the TAD in a center configuration to create human voices from a movie soundtrack, take it. There is not a better driver in my very humble opinion, and after 20 years my search for finest center channel, is now over.
  3. I read once that in the old days it truly was better at night due to the more stable power grid.
  4. Chris, If you click on mixer under the outputs (first column), you can attenuate and add channels here. I use this spot to adjust the gain between each AMP using a Volt Ohm Meter and test tones. This is a great spot for that, especially if you run multiple AMPs with different sensitivities that can't be adjusted at the AMP and yet still add gain to each driver/channel in the next "gain" column. I usually start with my least sensitive at full (my HF FW SIT2) and attenuate those that are more sensitive (my LF Crowns). Just don't forget that is in there, you can't see that attenuation anywhere else unless you click it. I also make sure everything is bypassed when I set this up, if its running through a PEQ or crossover, it alters the voltage. As a very last step, I also run the test tones produced through my Oppo setup and using the db meter in REW adjust the gain on the Inputs on the Xilica to get speakers as a whole, level matched. I then leave the trim setting in the OPPO at 0.
  5. Chris, how do calculate if any attenuation is required between each driver on a 2-way speaker, HF vs LF? For example the -3db between the Jube Bass Bins and the K402. I suspect that if it was close and you ran your full range measurement it would compensate, but what if it was way off? Great Write-up! Joe
  6. Thank you for the kind words. Just an FYI, the KPT-305 is an excellent solution, however, it will not accommodate the TAD and its adapter. That is the only reason I built my own. I also shaved 1" off the top and bottom of the K402 to allow it to fit under my screen. This horn has been chopped and frenched as they'd say in shop class. I used Rustoleums high performance semi gloss black paint reduced 50% with xylene through my HVLP spray gun. I removed all of the original paint from the K402 and repainted (the hardest part of this project). I like my color better than the black from klipsch, I might paint the Jube K402 Horns to match. It is a deeper, less gray black. Joe
  7. Currently using a Klipsch K69, but I built the box deep enough for the TAD 4002. I am using a Xilica-4080 xover and a Nelson Pass designed Vfet DIY amplifier.
  8. Yes, he helped me a ton. It was much easier to get the holes right than I had initially thought.
  9. Just finishing up my K402 MEH. Final sanding, primer and paint left, this is hands down the best center channel I have ever heard. Worth building for sure. I must say I was surprised by the clean solid bass this thing outputs. Turned out better than I had hoped.. I guess it's time to pretty up the room.
  10. I have absolutely had the Eminence 15C slap in my belles. Maybe I had over tightened the screws, or I listen too loud. My wife did the install as I had just had surgery, so I thought they where loose when it started. A month later when I could, I went in an tightened them myself and just made it worse. It is possible... do get a spacer.
  11. I really let my Cornwalls have it yesterday, me and the boy listening to some "Cake by the Ocean" while playing D3 and we had the desks and chairs literally bouncing. At 110db (measured using REW) the needle was flirting with 2 Watts, just 1% of the total output my McIntosh MC2205 is capable of. Joe Thanks for the info on the Sunfire, I run the same amp and often wondered about this. It is a great AMP!
  12. Oddly enough it bobs around like the floating body of a dead fish. I do not think they like it...
  13. Thebes, I went ahead and threw a rectifier tube into the fish tank. Seems to just bob around in there, but I think it sounds great.
  14. Very cool, especially with whose it was.
  15. Well here is my current box with my humble collection.
  16. Thats cool, there are a few on eBay... full of tubes.
  17. Hello my fellow tubers... My collection has now grown to 3 set of power tubes, 2 preamp tubes and 1 rectifier tube. I am finding that I like to switch between the KT-88s and the EL34s depending on the speaker. Do any of you have any cool ideas to store the tubes while not in use. I have been wrapping them up and placing them in the original boxes, but that seems hard on the boxes and not the best solution. I was thinking of this (maybe one for each set of power tubes) https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-1040-Micro-Case-Black-Clear/dp/B001GGBORU/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1472486634&sr=8-1&keywords=pelican+display+case Do any of you have anything that might be better? The pelican seems like overkill...
  18. Yes Power Amplifier. Not sure on the output I am guessing 8-10 Watts maybe. I do have volume pots on the AMP. I have had it in three systems of various complication: Schitt Bifrost (DAC) ->Schitt SYS (Passive Preamp)->Tubes AMP->KLF-30s BiFrost->McIntosh C28 Pre-AMP -> Tube AMP->Cornwalls Oppo->Xilica Xover->Tube AMP->TAD 4002 Driver (my favorite)
  19. It has been some time and I want to clarify my position on the EL34 vs the KT88. I will add my EL34s are JJs and my KT88s are gold lions. I have tried the amp on may various speakers and in various setups. I think the KT88s really shine with the KLF-30s and the Cornwalls, However hooked up to the Jubes bi-amped I do believe the EL34s are supreme. Also when I bi-amp the KLF-30s I like the EL34 better there as well. So in a nut shell, full range I think I like the KT88s but bi-amped with something else picking up the LF or bass bins (SS), the EL34s are just beautiful in the midrange. I am really enjoying this amp and how very little money I am into it. So much fun. Thanks again William and Maynard for your positive peer pressure.
  20. OK here is your under the skirt shot. I appreciate the kind words. I am very new to this sort of thing, having just 18 months ago, started by replacing caps in a Cornwall. Seriously, if I can build this so can you... If you see anything here that I should modify or change please feel free to say it. This AMP sounds great with the Jubes, but so does the Aleph J and the M2. I am not sure you could ever describe tubes to someone, you just have to hear them. I think they are very smooth and a little more forgiving on bad source material. FWIW, this is my fist experience with Tubes and I am super proud to have built them myself. As far as the tubes, I do seem to prefer the KT-88s over the EL34, but by no means would value my judgement at this point... I am just tickled I haven't burnt down the house.
  21. Completed my first DIY Tube AMP. With the help of Wdecho of course, couldn't have done it without him. I love it! You must build one and try it. I am into this about $500 with these tubes. I couldn't be happier with the sound or how it turned out aesthetically.
  22. Is your goal an exact replica? Why hold to the K55? I believe Roy Delgado is a genius and if your going to take the time to build something, you should consider the 2-way K510 design. One day you might could score a TAD-4002 and it just screws right on there and I think the larger throat sounds a lot better, less compressed. I like the K55, but the K69 is way better and the Beryllium TAD is way way way way better IMHO. I suggest a horn that can use one of these, and I bet you could find a set of the K69 for pretty cheap. I'd bet you a milkshake that if you built both top hats, you'd never listen to the K55 after hearing the other. I'd love to hear a 2-way Belle w/ TAD vs. a Jube w/ TAD combo I bet they are really close.
  23. I hate to say this, but I never completed the build, I put this design down and ended up getting a set of Jubilees. I felt I was going to spend a lot of money and time on the mid-horn and still not have quite what I was after with a small horn. I have it now with the jubes, no question. If your goal is the best sound, hands down it goes to the Jube and its K402. No way a Belle could ever top it, IMHO. I may build them one day if I move to a smaller home, I do have the materials. However, my next build is this: https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/161404-a-k-402-based-full-range-multiple-entry-horn/
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