Cantilope
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Posts posted by Cantilope
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I hate to say this, but I never completed the build, I put this design down and ended up getting a set of Jubilees. I felt I was going to spend a lot of money and time on the mid-horn and still not have quite what I was after with a small horn. I have it now with the jubes, no question.
If your goal is the best sound, hands down it goes to the Jube and its K402. No way a Belle could ever top it, IMHO. I may build them one day if I move to a smaller home, I do have the materials. However, my next build is this:
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/161404-a-k-402-based-full-range-multiple-entry-horn/
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WARNING - Phonographic amp content
Really nice amp you have there. So clean.
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Very nice, I might go back in and add a few heatsinks.
You're are right on with the speaker terminals and switch in the front. Nice!
Joe
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I am going to be selling my Xilica XP4080 if anyone is interested. I am selling it because MiniDSP offered a firmware update to my Dirac DDRC-88A to give it a builtin crossover. This means I have one less DA, and a lot less cables in my rack. It was purchased brand new last year from an Authorized Dealer, and I will include the Sales Receipt.
I run a 4080, and might be interested in another. Shoot me a PM with your asking price. Thanks.
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I was wondering what impact my 15-year old low-end Yamaha AVR, now being used as a preamp, had on the sound. Spent an hour or more Friday comparing the sound from my DAC fed through the Yamaha to my Mcintosh amp as normal vs directly connecting my DAC to the amp. Tried to level match things as best I could for a fair comparison. I swapped around the RCA cables 20+ times. I thought I could hear more dynamics and clarity with the Yamaha out of the signal path, but I'm not sure. I was surprised how close it was. And this is a Yamaha AVR prior to when they started coming out with things like "pure direct" - the best I can do is set "effect off" which I think still does an A/D/A conversion. Maybe I'll run another test.
I like the idea of just using a SYS. This has got my wheels turning.
The SYS also has the ability to switch inputs. Take your Source and split the signal to the AVR and the SYS with a splitter, then run the out of the AVR to the other input of the SYS (it's passive so it is not adding anything so no harm here) and you can push the button on the SYS and a/b them pretty closely as you can add the AVR and remove it without unwiring it.
Be curious as to what you think...
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I happen to be in the camp of no pre-amp or minimal at least. I ran the Schiit SYS passive mentioned and compared it to my McIntosh C32. I love the Bass and Loudness that the C32 can inject into the sound, but I really had no problems using the SYS ultimately replacing it with an Oppo which does my volume attenuation and DAC duties now. Once I finally got my speakers and xovers dialed in, I found the loudness and bass where too much anyway and pulled the C32 in favor of the $50 passive pre without the tone controls. I'd also go with a digital xover way before I got a pre-amp, much better tone control and mitigation plus time alignment and you can add gain, just like a pre.
My humble opinion is that the Preamp can mitigate other issues, but if you have a good gain structure and volume attenuation, totally unnecessary. Especially with high efficiency speakers. I cannot wrap my brain around how adding one could be better, I mean how? It is just more stuff, messing with the signal. I will admit to not understanding the mis-match impedance thing, maybe I have just been lucky.
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I got my Aleph J done and it has been put into service. What a great project, not as easy as the M2, but very close. I have not done a real side by side yet but soon and I really appreciate the suggestion to build it. It does some things better than the M2 and has a very quiet noise floor.
I call it my Ford F150 of Amps as it sounds great on all of my speakers, a great all around amp. At the moment the Aleph J is running the Belles I am using for rears in my Jubilee HT system, with (3) M2s running the F, L, and C. I cannot begin to explain how good it sounds. I will say when I get shot at in Fallout 4, I duck in real life. No kidding it sounds that real.
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I am posting here to thank those before me, this has made my setting up of my system much easier. This is easily the most useful thread on the site and I reference it monthly. Thanks!
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I would go with the Oppo even if you are not using the CD, if the HDMI source on it are enough for you (if not you can use a HDMI switcher hooked up to it. Now if you want Atmos or DTS-X you would need to look at a AVR or AVP.
Went with the Oppo 105D. Excellent unit and I am very happy with it. Everything I have read is true, it plays everything I threw at it, including DSD over DLNA and has excellent video. It even plays my ripped Blue-Rays from the network, which my PS3, Xbox one, or Panny TV can not.
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I shipped a C32 about 3 months ago in a McIntosh box for repair. After repair and upon arrival it no worky... So I sent it back and my tech warrantied the work, but he said it was dropped so hard the board sheared some wires. Glass intact. I think it goes to show how good the box is, but regardless it's still risky shipping. Not sure I'd do it again, but was really unhappy with my local shop.
If I were to ship an AMP, i'd consider a pallet, but a pre-amp or tuna, give it a go, but insure it for full replacement value from Classic Audio or Tom Manley.
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Went ahead and ordered the Aleph J parts and another case. Here she is almost complete. I have tested the Power Supply and am getting the anticipated voltage. I'll post another once I get my last parts in and it wired up.
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This is a really good deal on a very nice pre/pro. Audyssey XT32, balanced connections and DSD capable. Also qualifies for Integra / Onkyo warranty thru 2018 (not limited to original owner)
http://emotivalounge.proboards.com/thread/46580/integra-dhc-pre-amp-processer
(he's also a member on this forum)
This fits most of my bill of requirements. I have also looked at that Marantz too.
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I ran the TI for about 6 months, and switched back and just liked it better. I am sorry I don't have a better explanation, I also took the time and expense to upgrade the xover to account for the TI and it too did not make it better. Not worth the expense I guess is the best way to put it, my diaphragms and xover mod is in a box not being used.
The best material I have heard though, hands down is Beryllium, like found in the TAD 4002. Too bad you couldn't get that for the Midrange of the KLF. I would upgrade mine to that for sure.
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I am running Jubilees in my home theater with a K402 serving as the center and a set of Belles as surrounds. I need an HDMI compatible AVR that I can use as my pre-amp/processor. I am looking for something less than $1000. I will not use any of the amps inside the unit, just the processing as I use (4) First Watt Amps. SQ is of the utmost importance and I would prefer something with Balanced connections but that is not a deal killer.
I want to play DSDs and have room correction as well... and be compatible with Apple. Any thoughts? I have thought about purchasing a OPPO to do all of this, but am not sure that is the best option, and I never use disks anymore.
I'd be fine with used or refurbished or last years model. Thanks in advance.
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I upgraded my mid horns to the titanium and ultimately went back to the Phenolic. I agree 100% with your assessment of the tweeter upgrade however. Mine had poly and the titanium is head and shoulders above that material for sure.
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Now that you have built one First Watt clone (since we all like to spend other people's money on this forum), if, or should I say when, you are up for a "different" build, I would suggest the Aleph J in order to sample a First Watt single-ended class-A two stage design that will match up very nicely to a larger variety of speakers as opposed to one of the other more esoteric single-ended, single gain stage designs where it becomes very difficult, if not impossible, to source certain parts.
The "hard to get" Aleph J parts (circuit boards; transistor kit including 8 - IRFP240 N Channel Mosfets, 2 - ZTX550 & 4 - ZTX450; and 2 matched pairs LSJ74 JFETS for the differential amplifier gain stage) all can be bought at the diystore, there is a well-documented "6L6" build guide for the Aleph J on the diyaudio forum (at link below), and in some respects, the J2 is kind of like the JFET output transistor update of the Aleph J design.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/241729-aleph-j-illustrated-build-guide.html
I had to make an order to the DIY store for some other items, I went ahead and added this in the order. It was only like $65.
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While I suspect some can hear the noise in certain situations, I’m sure others cannot (especially that person that lives in a city apartment where the ambient noise levels tend to be much higher). In comparing the M2 with the J2 (I purchased) using my Klipschorns, while I did not experience any annoying hum, I had suspected that the level of noise may have been part of what I perceived as a slight masking of the musical detail as opposed to listening with the J2 that had the type of liquid clarity in the very fine musical details that was more in line with what I was looking for.
You are correct sir, and this best sums up my thoughts... I can hear the amps if they are on and the room is quiet and I am right up with my ear in the horn. However, I like so much of the other things about the M2 that this is insignificant to me at this time. However, I have read exactly what you have written about the J2 vs the M2 and I would be curious to hear one in my setup.
It does seem that mine is quieter, I have to climb right into the horn to hear anything, and I agree that's probably due the larger case and better separation. When I say climb into the horn, these are K402s so I am being literal.
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Reserved
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Here I am assembling the Audio Boards. The little tester allows me to test every part before it goes in.
In this photo you can see the populated Audio Boards ready to be installed. (I actually have 2 pairs here for 2 stereo AMPS). The photo of the completed amp with an open top is in the first post.
Here is the front, nice clean brushed aluminum finish and matches my NP built M2s.
Here is the final photo, what seems funny to me is the lack of warning and caution stickers missing from the back. No one is there to tell me not to stick my hand in it...
With this AMP there is one small easy adjustment at the end for the DC offset. Very easy to do. I very much enjoyed the making of this amp and it will not be my last project. In fact I doubt I will ever purchase a manufactured amp unless there is a specific need for it. The sound quality is amazing on my Jubes and I highly recommend the First Watt M2 amp, or better yet build your own.
Joe
(Wdecho - this is as much your project as it was mine, please feel free to post and comment and clarify this thread).
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Here you can see the parts laid out on my table, and this is everything for an M2. First step is to create the power supply. The First Watt M2 requires 50V DC to run the audio boards. In order to take 120V AC and turn it into DC you need the big toroidal Transformer and the bridge rectifiers from there it feed the Power Supply board which takes the DC and stores some and smooths out the DC signal.
Here you can see the Power Supply boards are complete and mounted in the case. You can also see the black and red twisted wires in the block, thats where the switch ties in. The wires in my hand get plugged into the switch on the case.
This is a photo of the PS complete. At this point I plugged it in and had 51.6V. I used a light bulb wired into the plug circuit to act as a circuit breaker to prevent a melt down if I had a direct short. The light turns on if there is a direct short rather than spark and short.
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First Watt Clone - The DIY M2 is a class A amp that follows Nelson Pass's design and tries to clone his work. NP is a big supporter of DIY and released this schematic recently. As I already own 2 M2s, I built this to run my center channel K402 bi-amped.
The completed tested and working AMP:
I have never built anything like this before and if not for Wdecho, not sure I would have attempted to. With his guidance and help in parts selections and oversight during the build he managed to help me build this from afar without me electrocuting myself. I want to share my experience with you, to encourage you to try and build a SS amp or tubes or line stages whatever. If I can do it, so can you. To start I suggest having a nice soldering iron. I bought a Hakko for this build and have no regrets, part of my success is good clean soldering.
Below is what I spent, I spared no expense (but didn't spend a fortune either) and ended up with a nice quiet AMP.
Budget:
M2 Boards - $28
(2) M2 TF Edcore - $22
FWPS 400 18v TF - $65
Case - $480
Small Parts - $125
Total = $720
Audio Boards
PS Printed Board
http://diyaudiostore.com/collections/printed-circuit-boards/products/universal-psu
Case
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OK so it has been a few weeks and unfortunately I am going to get rid of the boxes. Tired of moving them around and I must say I am absolutely in-love with these speakers. I think it is said above, they'll be in the estate and not my problem.
If you have not heard these Jubilees, I highly recommend that you check them out. You'll never be the same, I promise you that.
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I was thinking maybe you could send me the boxes. I can take pictures of myself with me standing next to them and make myself think I purchased Jubilees
So I have them set up with a hole cut in them to place your head and take photos.
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Interesting...
What do you think of their sound with no drywall to reflect?
It will be real interesting to see what later changes if/when you add drywall to the room.
I've wondered (before we put drywall up) if there was perhaps merit in putting up a piece "here & there" for reflective purposes and leaving most of it off to absorb. Using some fabric or something to otherwise cover the insulation (or block wall) for the wife.
Yep, these have been my thoughts too. That's why I waited, that and to make sure my wiring is where it needs to be. There is concrete/block on the other side of the studs so they are still within a 1' of a corner and have great solid bass. Like unreal horn loaded solid bass. These bins are so cool, nothing like the belle.
Don't laugh but I was looking at decommissioned parachutes on ebay, thought that might make a cool fabric stapled to the studs. I think it sounds terrific, I almost don't want to sheet-rock then just cover it again with absorbing material.
I hate the window, a mistake by my builder who didn't think I would mind. I do have a 120" motorized screen on the way and I would like to build one of those multi-unity horns to set on the ground for a center. I love these things, they really are a whole different level, 5.1 movies and concerts must be phenomenal.
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Tractrix horn calculator for Belle clone mid
in Technical/Restorations
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Is your goal an exact replica? Why hold to the K55?
I believe Roy Delgado is a genius and if your going to take the time to build something, you should consider the 2-way K510 design. One day you might could score a TAD-4002 and it just screws right on there and I think the larger throat sounds a lot better, less compressed.
I like the K55, but the K69 is way better and the Beryllium TAD is way way way way better IMHO. I suggest a horn that can use one of these, and I bet you could find a set of the K69 for pretty cheap. I'd bet you a milkshake that if you built both top hats, you'd never listen to the K55 after hearing the other.
I'd love to hear a 2-way Belle w/ TAD vs. a Jube w/ TAD combo I bet they are really close.