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Cantilope

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Everything posted by Cantilope

  1. Do any of you have some crossover recommendations for this setup? I have read everything I can about the different setups used around here but most of those posts are a few years old. Any recommendations on something that might allow me to run a 5.1 theater built from these 2-way bells that I can time align and adjust? I think I need a 5 in 10 out I would like to do it with one piece of electronics, but I don't know if that is best either. Preferably something new, maybe a miniDSP. I might need to lean on someone to help me get it set up correctly too. I'd go analog too, will the ALK steep slope x-overs work? That give me a 2-way or 3-way option and be easier I think, but am I cutting a corner? Thanks! Joe
  2. If they figure out a way to get games on the apple TV (which I think they will do with the apps) it will be pretty cool, way better than Kodi. Can you imagine if Nintendo made a deal with Apple and used the Apple TV as a console, they'd make a fortune just off of the vintage games. No new software no hardware just a decent emulator... The airport express and the first touch iPod 10 years ago (I still have and that still work), changed the way I listen to music forever. They started my beloved digital music collection, for this Apple has me as a loyal customer at least for now.
  3. I ended up getting these for a growler and a few bottles of beer. Price was right… Randy & Carl, I’d love your advice... 3 of the 4 18”s need to be re-coned ($80 each simply speaker) and in the fourth that works I found what looks like an Eminence 18” not a klipsch driver. I will also need (2) 15” KD15 passives, which I have yet to find. So as it stands 1 of them is working but with an Eminence 18” and I have one more with a good passive and 2 boxes. New 18”s not made by Klipsch might be the way to go too… cost wise I might be half way there. I just don’t know. I tried the working one, I hooked it up to my Crown XLS and my THT beats the snot out of it… I am not sure though if that’s due to the eminence or if the THT is just that much better or my amp might be a little light to push this thing its only 200 Watts. One thing I don’t want to do is spend a bunch of money for an OK sub. But I’d fix them if they would be worth it… I have 4 really cool 18"s if I can get them to go and they have some history, they have been in a club. Pretty sure I was there at a time while these played, they have been hidden under the stage for who knows how long. But if they are junk, they're junk. End use is to be determined, maybe under the deck at my dads cabin.
  4. I see you have a PS3, I play MKVs on that all the time, however over DLNA, but I would think that it may work right off the drive. If not you can use Serviio as a DLNA server and do it over the network to the PS3. Serviio is a free DLNA server that I use to stream Vids and Music to my PS3, Raspberri Pi, and Smart TV. Let me know if you need a hand or a link...
  5. Spent another weekend messing around with the Loki and DSD. I also listened to a fair share of PCM over DSD. So this time I removed the McIntosh C32 from the equation. I ran the outputs of the Loki directly into the McIntosh SS MC2205 amplifier and used the gain controls on the amp to adjust for Volume. I then run to a splitter and RCA cables to the Crown for the Subwoofer. I cannot even begin to explain how much better it sounds without the preamp. This might show that my C32 needs a service, but I am a big believer in the shortest path equals the best sound. Schiit makes a passive preamp SYS with a volume and switch that would make an excellent addition to a Loki/bifrost combination in front of a quality amp. This setup is better than anything I have had so far… Also replaced my Monster Cable interconnects with Blue Jeans Cable. Didn’t notice any sonic changes, but they are made to length and look very nice. Nice heavy connectors. That Wyred is pretty nice stuff, I’d love to hear one.
  6. In theory, DSD could be decoded directly to analog using nothing but a passive lowpass filter -- capacitors, inductors, and resistors. No oversampling; no conversion to PCM; no computation whatsoever. Has any manufacturer exploited this? I think that would be the Schiit Loki, but I am not sure exactly how it does it. It sounds amazing, I will say that.
  7. I second the advice of the Hornloaded subwoofer. I think I read last night that you are a Cornwall guy, same as me... You will want a something along those lines. As far hooking it up, I run a line level into a Crown XLS1000, powers the sub and provides an electronic crossover for the subwoofer.
  8. Welcome, I have not been successful yet at getting the pi to play native DSD, but I have been focusing on testing and trying to get XBMC (Kodi) to work. I love XBMC, but so far no luck. I have seen that card, what software are you using, is that openelec? Stuttering for me has always been a transcoding problem. I would start looking there, I have had some buffering problems in XMBC with blue ray movies, but never audio or even DVD for that matter. You might try Foobar2000 on your PC with your pi as a DAC. Foobar allows you to convert from PCM to DSD or from DSD to PCM and will push out native DSD. That would rule out your software and in the lower corner foobar2000 clearly shows what its outputting. Schitt has a pretty good guide on getting that to work plus advice on other software. Check out there site. I'd appreciate your feedback on getting this running, if you do, I might consider the Wilson card. I have been messing around a bit with Volumio, but I am not there yet. One thing mentioned above, The Oppo 105 is the ultimate solution, I hear it can even do DSD over DLNA.
  9. One of the 4 does work,but I think I'll need to recone 3 drivers and 2 passives at a minimum. Boxes themselves other than being covered in carpet and dirty are solid. I wonder how many professional musicians have played through these, they were setting up for The Used show while I was there. They certainly were not "lightly used". You missed some good beer brewing this weekend, made a toasted oatmeal stout and the wife made ribs. Me and my 2 helpers snacked on 2 racks of ribs while the beer cooked. It was nice day. I think I am brewing again this weekend and take the 25th off.
  10. Fortune Smiles upon me, these were gifted to me to breath life back into them. Might be a fun project, especially being no cost so far... I pick them up Tuesday and will post a few photos.
  11. I haven't entered this particular club since the night I met my wife... So there they were 4 ugly nasty boxes. 2 of the 4 passives turned to dust. One of the woofers did work, but the others need to be reconed. He said he'd haggle, but I am not sure they are for me. I was looking at these for a buddy, he has a an old resturant he entertains in. Figured they would back his kfl-20s, but I passed on them. Time better spent on a BFM creation.
  12. I am going to go look at these...
  13. KP-4000 - I have a line on 4 of these for about $100 each, untested. Pretty sure they don't have a passive crossover... They are located at a club and I have a time set up for Wednesday at 1 PM to go have a look, test, and possibly make an offer. I have never looked at Pro, and am very ignorant to what these are or what they can do. Can you help my put together a list of things to take with me to test these? Amp, cables, etc? I was planning on using my Crown XLS1000 test it since it has an electronic crossover. I think I need to go buy a speakon speaker cable too, is that correct? He also has a pretty good list of pro gear, should I be looking at any of this as well? (listed at end of post.) Are these any good? Could they be cleaned up and used non-pro? Any good testing methods? Any incite would greatly help. Me and a buddy are looking putting some of this gear into a restaurant he owns but have no clue how to begin... I would keep 2 for myself just because I need these of course. 2 Audio Logic Quad Gate units 1 Behringer Composer Pro-XL Dual Channel Compressor/Gate 1 Behringer Composer MDX2100 Dual Channel Compressore/Gate 1 Behringer DJX700 DJ Mixer 1 Behringer Ultralink Pro Headphone Distro 1 Crown DC-300A Dual Channel Power Amplifier 2 dbx 231 31-Band Graphic Equalizer 2 dbx 1074 Quad Channel Gate 5 dbx 166A Dual Channel Compressor/Gate 4 dbx 166XL Dual Channel Compressor/Gate 1 Denon CD-110 Professional CD Player 1 Denon DN-2500F Dual CD Player 1 Denon DN-2700F Dual CD Player 1 Denon RC-44 Remote Control for DN-2500F 1 Denon RC-37 Remote Control for DN-2700F 1 Digitech MEQ Mono 28-Band Digital Graphic Equalizer 1 DOD 866 Series II Dual Channnel Comp/Gate 1 InterM VAMS-0808 Audio/Video Matrix Switcher 2 Lexicon MPX-550 Digital Reverb/Delay 1 Peavey PV-8.5C Dual Channel Power Amplifier 1 Pioneer Dual CD Player 1 Roland SDE-3000A Mono Digital Delay 2 Tascam DA-30MKII Professional Cassette Tape Players
  14. Yesterday I received a Schitt Loki, and after getting it hooked up I learned a few things about foobar and what it is I am doing to my streams (which you should never cross). The information given here was correct, I was in fact converting the DSD stream to PCM using a component inside Foobar. The component “DSDIFF Decoder 1.4” actually worked very well and allowed me to select the PCM bitrate it was converted to. I used 24/96 as that is what my internal DAC in the Rotel and Sunfire take. So obviously with the new Loki I no longer needed or wanted to convert to PCM and installed the SACD Decoder plugin for Foobar. I struggled for a while before I realized I had to delete the other component to make it work. Foobar kept defaulting to the old component and would not output DSD. The other thing to note DSD and the Loki are not plug and play. I have been using Foobar for at least 2 years and feel pretty good about how it works, but I still spent a few hours getting this up and running. Once I got this going I was also able to set up the PCM to DSD conversion allowing me to play all my music on the Loki. I know this is the exact opposite of what I had before, but I’ll get to why... I recently entered into the analog world with a McIntosh Pre/amp C32/MC2205. I have been completely digital most of my adult life. So this is new territory for me. I needed a DAC to play analog to the C32, my Raspberry pi analog didn’t sound good, and the Airport express didn’t either. So I spent about 3 weeks going back and forth between buying a Bitfrost and a Loki. Knowing that I would have better PCM playback through the Bitfrost but not the best DSD playback. I figured the Loki was cheaper and in the end may provide a better experience with the DSD. Plus it seems easier to get unconverted PCM than unconverted DSD from other devices. So Loki it is… Now for my impressions, I have a decent DSD collection ripped to my PC. It’s about 150 SACDs. I didn’t get the Loki up and running and hooked up the McIntosh till about 9 last night and only got to hear about 5 songs. I listened to 3 Doors Down – When I am gone and Changes, Michael Jackson's – Beat it, and Billie Jean, and Patricia Barbers – Nardis. I won’t say I was blown away as I have heard these a 100 times using the PCM to DSD conversions, and I think that is about 90% of what DSD is, but that last 10% came through loud and clear last night. I have not heard anything sound as good as it did last night. DSD is clearly above PCM. What I heard to try and put it into words is when the hi-hats and cymbals crash on Nardis, not only do they sound like a cymbal, but you can hear the ringing of the cymbal as they float on the stem. The sound decay changes ever so slightly as the cymbals rock on the stem after being struck, a bit louder a bit quieter as they oscillate until they come to rest. I absolutely could hear this. It was amazing, and is not something I have heard before. There were many other details like this, but they are much harder to put into words. I still want to do some listening to the PCM converted to DSD, although due to my really cheap sources, I think the Loki is much quieter than the analog section in both the Raspberry Pi and the Airport. Pretty sure I have made a step up in that regard, even with the conversion. I may still look at a Bitfrost with the uber analog upgrade to better the PCM source, but for now, I think I am one happy Schiit owner. Equipment: Windows PC (Foobar2000), Schiit Loki via USB, McIntosh C32, McIntosh MC2205, Crown XLS1000 subwoofer amp, 24” BFM Tuba Home Theater Subwoofer. Monster Interlink 400 MKII interconnects, Kimber Cable Speaker Wire to the Klipsch Belles using a Cornscalla-wall network.
  15. Corey, I run both Rotel and Sunfire with my KLF-30s. My Gear is the Rotel 1066 (pre-amp), Rotel 1077 (amp), and the Sunfire Theater Grand II (pre-amp), Sunfire Cinema Grand Sig, and a Sunfire Sig. Sub. I in fact have them both still and migrate between them from time to time... Here is my humble opinion although my gear is not the exact same models... I like the Sunfire a lot. In fact I have really grown to respect it the longer I have it and the more I try it against other amps. I have yet to have anything come through my house and beat it (excluding my McIntosh gear). It does have a slight hiss if you put your ear next to the tweeter, but you would never hear this at any listening level. I really like the current source and voltage source taps as well, they work very well with the bi-wire able capability of the KLF30. Almost as if it was made for Klipsch. I ran mine for years with current up top and voltage for the woofers. Though I have read, not to bother with grand go for the signature like I have. I can also say that I have not even a single hiccup in the 12 years I have had it. Solid unit. My Rotel will not keep up with the Sunfire, it doesn't sound as good, and is not as dynamic as the Sunfire, seems a bit more grainy or gritty. Especially for movies. It sounds great and I don't have anything really bad to say about it, but right now the Rotel is unused in my home. With that I will say that there are better amps then either of these. I have been really happy with my recently acquired McIntosh MC2205 and would suggest looking at these as well. A NOS VRD amps are also on my lust list.
  16. Very cool, I have a set of Phillips Hue Bulbs and you can get them to flicker and strobe to the beat as well. They are really fun to play with especially at parties. Those other 2 futuristic bulbs sound very cool. I know the hue has Wifi in them, so these do seem quite possible. The only downside... expensive. When I screw them in I use 2 hands, kind of funny. I'd hate to drop a 60 bulb.
  17. So can I extract from this that you recommend that I do not continue using the Monster equipment as it didn't do anything back then and it isn't doing nothing now? Please provide the detail missing about the Whole House protection. I plan to research this and any help you can provide would be appreciated.
  18. I say go hear them. They are going to be way different than what you have. Plus you'll know if that's what you want even if you don't buy. Cornwalls are very nice too, see of you can hear them both.
  19. I picked my Belles up from Colorado to, but it was a 14 hour drive for me. Those are very pretty. I think $2300 is on the high side, mine were less than that and have no chips on the veneer and are near perfect. I hear the AB network is not so good in a Belle, but I don't have any actual knowledge to base that on. I love my Belles. Good Luck with your purchase.
  20. Once I replaced all the wiring in the house, including the breakers, box and had a new service installed to the pole, I didn't have many more options on my side. I had replaced everything from the transformer to the plug to prove that it wasn't on "my side" of the service. The Monster Power equipment was the last item I tried. I will be adding this to the new house ASAP.
  21. I think the answer to this is no, as everyone seems to at least recommend a surge protector . Sounds like you all have the same thoughts that I have had. Seems to not do any harm and some protection might be better than none at all...
  22. Initial justification: About a dozen years ago I lived in a house built in the early 50's. I built a home theater using my Sunfire separates, KLFs and a pioneer elite TV. We started having the lights flicker and dim pretty regularly whenever we had a large electrical load somewhere in the house. It ended up getting worse and worse. When the bass would hit the lights would flicker. Our refrigerator motor burned out as did our drier (maybe unrelated). I ended up having the house rewired and a new larger service brought in, however this was not the problem. A contributor but not the main issue. I know it was affecting my music. So I purchased these units, a Monster Power HTS 3600/AVS 2000. Totally fixed the problem and I must say worked like a charm. Fixed the lights and bass issue and you could hear and see the voltage being rectified if the numbers where to be believed. Apparently the pole mounted transformer in the yard was approaching 60 years old and the load from our homes pulling harder than ever. It eventually went south, but it took a few years. Here we are now; we live in a new home with underground power and new infrastructure. I know that these units helped protect my equipment and have certainly paid for themselves with my particular situation at the time. The 3600 is a “filter” I have always looked at is a big power strip with a staggered turn on. The 2000 is a voltage regulator, which leveled out the voltage drops that the house experienced. We would have swings from 99 volts to 144 and I got exactly 120 on the backside. Do I still run these, is it snake oil? I read that McIntosh actually frown on this sort of thing… What is the consensus here? What about in a 2-channel system? They do put out a bit of heat so I know they are costing me money to run. Been running on all the time for a dozen years, so one of the better MP products I have used. Does it help or hurt? Also there is no A/B testing its too difficult moving them in and out. Plus I admit I might not be able to hear it. FWIW, I do run 20 amp single runs from my plugs to breakers. I also can understand the point of McIntosh that they say a well designed amp would have it's own protection.
  23. I am running an MC2205 which is 200 Watts. Its funny, I almost have the same question in reverse... I have cranked mine up and have never been able to get it above 20 Watts per the meter as it just becomes too loud and the neighbors start texting the wife... I feel that I have an extra 180 untapped watts that I may never use. Mine speakers are a similar 103dB. I think I could/would be perfectly happy with a 50 or 100 watt Mac. I will say I am very happy with my set up, I am looking at purchasing a second Mcintosh amp, just trying to figure if a smaller cheaper version (MC2105 or your MC2505) would suffice. Too bad we couldn't swap for a week... if your thinking of replacing your McIntosh with a newer class D, I can say I like my Mcintosh a lot better than both my Rotel and Sunfire class D monster amps.
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