Cantilope

Here is the updated CAD drawings including one with a K510. I made the top 10" tall instead of 8 3/8" like the original to accommodate the 15x9 horn (does this include the flange?). I also made it a bit wider to match the 1/2" additional width caused by using the 1" on the bin. Again comments, suggestions please... easier to change in CAD. Also all dims are now in fractional inches. I'll create a cut list next.

WOW, I had no idea this existed... I will go have a look and only 2.1 miles from my office.

Can I ask, someone who is intimately familiar with the Belle design to check my drawing? I have never seen one in real life, I am trying to reverse engineer it based on photos and some plans that are out there. I changed the outside of the bass bin to 1" similar to the La Scala II, so the dimensions include that. I will convert these to fractional inches and create a cutlist if I have not missed anything. Have I assumed correctly that the woofer mates up to the slot on the motorboard? I am thinking of making the bottom out of 2 pieces of 1/2" laminated so that I can make a perfect access door. I might add some braces as my THT required them every 8" I might stick to that spec. with no unbraced sections over 8". Thanks for the help and please comments and suggestions are appreciated. Not having any luck sourcing a K510... Belle Design.pdf

Very Nice!

Can you show me how the woofer mounts?

I have read a bit on the 510, are they readily available? I think I am sold on the 2-way Belle in black...

Hmm, I might consider a K510 on top of a horn loaded bass bin... that might be a really great idea. Still need a good bass bin, though... I started laying out the Belle design, pretty sure I can turn it into a parts list. I have it all but the motorboard in my CAD program, it is really confusing just from looking at the plans. I might draw up a new top using the K510, that idea is growing on me as I type. Are the dimensions for that horn available, I'll have a look and see... 15"x9"

I currently have a set of 1974 Cornwalls with ALK Cornscala-wall networks and a 24” Tuba THT. That I really love. I have them set up in my basement which has unfinished walls, and I have used Roxul as insulation in the walls and ceilings. The Room sounds very good. I am very much wanting to move to a completely horn loaded speaker. I have never heard a la scala or a belle or a khorn for that matter, but am pretty convinced I would like the sound based on my experience with my folded horn subwoofer. La Scalas can be had around here for 800-1000 bucks and with those what I am seeing is the desire to replace the stock mid horn (same issue as my CW). I have been watching for belles for 2 years with nothing showing up. With my recent DIY success of the THT I am thinking I can build a Belle or a La Scala and improve on it with better horns and drivers as funds improve. I read a few threads today, the bass bin of the LaScala vs the Belle, the Belle seems to be the winner as far as aesthetics and function. So I am thinking of building a Belle from scratch instead of buying a lascala and replacing most of it. I am thinking of using a Fastrac midhorn, and using the K55 Drivers, K33 woofers, K77 tweeters and the ALK networks I have in my CW to populate the belle. Ultimately if I really like the way it turns out, upgrading to the Kappa 15C woofers, B&C tweeters and a possible new 2" midrange if I can do that and allow me to return the CW to its original unmolested state. Will my ALK Cornscala-wall network allow all of these changes? Should I think about building something else? I am not really wanting to desecrate my ’74 decorator CW but want to move to a horn loaded bass. Looking at the Belle plans, everything is done in ¾” sheet. I know that the LaScala II is made out of 1” to reduce flex, is that worth doing to the belle? Maybe just the outer skin? I have CAD and could make those adjustments pretty easily. I am open to any and all criticism and recommendations, Thanks.

Second vote for the BF Goodrich. I run all terrains on my 2007 FX4. I run 285/65/r20 which are the max I could put on without a lift kit (obviously not what you are wanting but they come in many sizes). My truck looks great and performs very well in all conditions plus I have gotten 75K out of these in the past. I will only run BFGs, I have since the 90s and will as long as they make them. IMHO the best out there...

I use a few different things that have not been mentioned, I have 40K songs about half are lossless, the rest are 320 that I have ripped over the years from CD. I use a great server called Subsonic which allows me to listen to my collection from my phone or any PC. I cannot recommend Subsonic enough so check that out. I have not found a better server for large collections. On my iphone/tablet I stream from subsonic to an app called isub, that works very well on my IOS. I know they also have apps for android as well. This method plays any music in its native format losslessly. I can go into my apple TV, to my smart TV, or to my PlayStation 3, lots of options. I also use DLNA through Foobar2000 as mentioned above. I have a decently sized ripped SACD collection of about 200 albums. These I play through foobar2000 and use the PlayStations capture audio stream to play it or my Smart TV will also grab the audio stream. Downside with that is to skip a song I have to be at the PC. Between Subsonic, Foobar2000, and isub, I can listen to anything I want at anytime. There is not time left in my life to listen to it all, so I refuse to pay for a streaming service.

I do some work for our local transit agency and we installed a Solar System on top of some light-rail platforms to be more sustainable. I had to contact the power company and they came out and installed a net meter on the service and we installed the latest and greatest panels on the top of each platform. We then worked with a consultant that installed the system and a monitoring display at each platform and showed the power being saved at that moment in time and what was saved over a given duration. I am not anti-solar but I learned a few things along the way... Also to note our project was funded by Blue Sky funding so we did not pay for any of the infrastructure, it was a grant. We did not order the solar panels until the week prior to install - the reason is that the technology changes so fast that by the time we ordered them and had them made the panels would already begin to go obsolete and be outdated with newer ones being made cheaper and better. Over cast days and dirt significantly reduce the effectiveness of the panels, so much so that we have added a task to the maintenance workers of pressure washing the platform canopies weekly. In fact from November to January we have so few sunny days, offset by inversion, made worse by the 12 hour daylight that our canopies are nearly ineffective during those periods. Add a skiff of snow or grit and that's all she wrote. We opened the light-rail line in April of 2013. We do capture enough to run the led lighting and the passenger information signs for 24 hours, and get real close to a zero balance in the summer months. Our canopies are just not large enough for any really great savings. So as far as installing this on your home, think big, and think of a way to try and keep them clean. I think it's a great step in the right direction, but from my experience not sure much was gained from our exercise except as a marketing tool. If you have the right mindset of never receiving a return on the investment, more of a doing my part... it can be successful. If you have some questions I can try and help, but I only managed the project.

I have them side by side right now and have been a-b ing them for the last few weeks. They are both great speakers, but I like the Corns better. I have had my KLFs for 16 years the original owner, now with new xovers, and ti diaphrams (hi/mid). Something about the mostly stock corns just captures me. It might be that my couch sits a bit low and the cornwall is the perfect height, whereas the KLF is a bit tall. The KLF does have a better low end, but I like the midrange of the Corn. So the KLF does the HT and the Corns are my 2 channel. If I had to pick just one, I'd take the CW over the KLF. However my wife, likes the KLF over the CW, who I would think has the better hearing being so young and has been much kinder to her ears than I to mine. Lucky I get to keep them both...

Here is a pic of my 1974 CD-BR decorators before I removed the grills. The bull nose trim, does not look the same or take tung oil the same as the birch, nor is it as white as birch. I am not familiar enough with wood to be able to identify what it is... but feel pretty confident its something else.

Grill cloth? So that chamber doesn't need to be air tight?

I rebuilt it in my high school shop class 1991-94 and then did the major overhaul in 2006 including; 2.5" wide wrangler springs, boxed frame, multiport EFI and electronic ignition, hyd Clutch, low gear kit for transfer case, OX locker, heated seats, fold out spare carrier & bumpers, fold and tumble rear seat, disk brakes, fuses, nickel plated timing cover, lapped gear set in oil pump (idles at 65 psi), electric fan, and a new top. I am pretty happy with how it has turned out. I can't even tell you the stories of what I did with this thing in High School. I am lucky to be alive...

It came stock with the AMC 304, I fuel injected it and get about 20 MPG out of it. I bought it in 1990 for $700, it was totaled at the time and I was only 14. Managed to keep it through college, a wife and kids... Thanks for the advice. Sounds like sticking to the plans, might be the easiest solution.

Here is my CJ... A complete frame off restoration.

Thanks to both of you! Nice analogy, as I am a welding hobbyist and work with steel a ton, but I have very little wood experience. I completely understand the reference. Sometimes a bolt will work, but sometimes you just need to lay a bead. I'll stick with the plans. If this was steel, it would be a piece of cake to build... and it would have been done weeks ago. I can nearly fabricate a complete 1972 CJ but putting together a few sheets of plywood is a totally different ball game...

I am starting to build a 24" Tuba HT. In the plans it has an access door on the one side to access the woofer. If I was to use speaker gasket material and screws similar to the ones on the back of my Cornwalls, could I get away from the access door and have the entire 3'x3' side removable? Would it still be air tight? I am not sure of it's final orientation or location in my room and I am not sure where to install terminals until I give it a listen and a position. Be a lot easier to remove the entire side panel and skip making the door all together. Would I loose any strength provided by the PL bond? Any thoughts or advice? Thanks!

I used the leather dye on my Cornwalls and it turned out great. I had to do it twice on the most faded woofer, but it dried superfast and I can't see how it could have done anything to the paper. Worked great!

PM sent.

Is this the one you are referring to? Klipsch KW-120-THX Subwoofer I'd like to give it a listen, but I once told myself I would never buy a Klipsch sub again... maybe I need to get over that.

I have been researching this same topic for the last 6 weeks or so. After everything I have read (a lot), I purchased the plans for a Tuba HT just last week. For reference I have a Sunfire True Subwoofer and a Klipsch SW-10 and neither are keeping up with my Cornwalls or KLFs. I am ultimately going to get some La Scalas, and for those a folded horn bass is the only solution in my humble opinion. The whole speaker is horn loaded...seems pretty obvious that you would want to stick with that. I'd take jason str up on his offer to hear one. If I could procure some furniture grade Baltic Birch around here, I'd be building mine already. FWIW I have PM'd a ton of folks that have been using the Tuba for the last few years and they all report that they are still happy with it. Most are in fact using them with the LS.

Hi Steve, I have inquired about the same thing... The suggestions I was given was a black magic marker, or spray paint. The paint was the direction I was going to go because of something I read about acid in the markers. I have not done it yet. Use masking tape and don't get any on the surrounds. The advice I was given stated they had tested it on a junk woofer and cut it in half after testing and applying paint. The paint stayed on the surface, it didn't bleed and it didn't effect the performance. But again this is all hearsay and second hand, not much good as I didn't test any of this myself. Good luck, I too will be handing mine down to my kids. Hopefully my father is reading this too...

I have done this to my KLF-30s including the band pass crossover mod mentioned... If you're happy leave them phenolic, I have yet to hear anything from them worth what I paid for the drivers and crossover mod. I am still wanting to remove them and go back to stock and see if I "lose"anything. Not a worthwhile upgrade in my opinion.