zeagan

Excellent! They’re who I got the eminence woofers from for the bottom ends, they were quick to ship with good pricing so great news they carry b&c.

I believe it was one of your posts that had me thinking that! If you could find their contact info that would be such a huge help as the Klipsch contact-us form has been...useless at best since I first attempted using it a week or two ago. My inquiry about KPT-904's got me an email telling me how to replace the ear cups on the heritage HP-3 headphones... Also, if you're still trying to get k510's and they happen to have more than 2 in stock I'll happily send a pair across the border.

Thanks! the la scala bins I built last summer. I had some old black lascalas from '78 and while I loved the sound the looks didn't really fit the room so I sold them to fund building all of this. The bins are 1" baltic birch for the bodies with 3/4" for the doghouse and boxed in 510's, original dimensions with a slight change in the transition from the doghouse to the last section of the horn just to make it aesthetically smoother. As for the driver! I've been trying to figure all of this out via a billion forum posts, from what I gathered the k-691 was a de75, which is a current model from B&C and the de750 is also current and has a larger magnet assembly and a shorting ring for higher power handling. Based on the frequency response curves from B&C the de75 looks a little smoother up top than the 750, also has the plastic phase plug instead of metal. It's tricky, trying to find the closest thing to the k-691. Also I'm in Canada so sources are a little bit more limited, I'm also very tempted to grab the Yorkville 7403 which is another rebranded de75 and currently on sale for $225 CAD/per driver, has the titanium diaphragm though, and what I gathered is the k-691 is the mylar surround version. Like I said, confusion. I'll happily make this post a "does anyone want to sell some mumps k510's" post as well! Here's a link to the build thread of the LaScala bins if you're curious how I put them together, also if Roy is reading this, I'll need a job in about 18 months if you need an MSc Eng haha.

So I'm finishing up some jubescalas I built last summer in a covid isolation burst of productivity. They currently have JBL 2446h drivers and "K510" clones which is all I could source last year. The goal here is to ideally get the mumps version k510's new (I've seen accounts of them being available horn only in Canada but can't find out where). Then I would just pick up some de75p's (for now, because this hobby is a mental illness, and constantly want to upgrade). The other option is to pick up some KPT-904-HF's if the pricing is within the realm of reason. Regardless, the goal of this post is to find out where to inquire in Canada and in a perfect world, a human being to contact which isn't a form to submit that goes god knows where. Also for context, the purpose of going DIY on the bass bins and slowly making these closer to what I want is that I'm back in university doing a masters of engineering so funds are limited. Picture of where they're at right now if anyone is interested, not "klipsch pro" technically, but I'm happy with them so far and looking to get a little klipsch pro in the mix.

Just a little update, unfortunately this is more in the "making them look nice enough for my significant other to allow them in her house" realm of progress than making them super heresys. Delta pros are on order as well as the 4" flared ports, foam arrived yesterday and today is adding layers of finish to the veneer and building the risers, this was my first attempt at a veneer project and I'm very very happy with how they're turning out. I did have one question claude, re: original iron core inductor on the type E network. Is there anywhere that lists its DCR spec? I did a quick measure with my fluke when I was making sure the air core I had laying around from an old ALK crossover would work but the resolution doesn't get down to the hundreths' of ohms. Was just wondering if there is an actual spec for that part laying around, my googling has only found anecdotal "around 0.3 ohms". Anyway! next step is just foam, port and woofer to see how it sounds once those parts show up, and in the meantime try not to go deaf listening to my jubescalas.

I don’t suppose you have the schematic for the old ALK universal kicking around do you? I had some DIY versions that came with some speakers I picked up a while ago and would like to confirm they were assembled properly.

Excellent! That’s what I was thinking, the plan here is to take things very incremental as there’s no huge rush as a casual summer project and making them look nice enough to be allowed in my girlfriend’s house is priority 1 right now.

Curious how that would work, for reference it’s a 14awg air core and a quick check with the fluke showed slightly lower DCR on it than the original. With inductance the same wouldn’t thermal losses from resistance be the only avenue for loss?

I’ve never been one to believe in magic, copper is copper and considering each individual driver is rarely seeing more than a watt of power transmission lamp cord is bordering on overkill. shoot me a message with a reasonable (more than nothing, less than eBay insanity) offer and an address so I can see what it would cost to ship them out.

These are essentially straight up clones of the Type E until I get the mods for the super heresys sorted out. I had purchased some LaScalas a few years ago from a guy that had DIY versions of ALK universal crossovers, sold the LaScalas with the original AA's so have had a few hundred dollars of nice parts sitting in a box since and this was a great excuse to take them out and give them a purpose. These use the following: the 3654 autoformer from Crites in place of the T2A 2.4mH 14awg air core inductor by Solen a pair of 1uF 250V Solen film caps for the tweeter and one 2.2uF Kimber film cap for the mid. Had a pile of "anticables" a guy had included when I bought some speakers (it's just 12awg magnet wire really) and I cut some of that up to make the most ridiculously overkill jumpers on the board (which is just a 9" long piece of cherry) Honestly I'm surprised at just how much these have cleared up the upper mids and highs compared to the stock ones, less sibilant, less harsh and just overall better. Also replaced the gasket between the k55v and the horn while I had it open, old one had seen better days. next up is lots of sanding

While waiting around for various parts I decided to rebuild the crossovers of these H1's I just picked up. I had all of these parts handy which means I can resell the original E networks to someone that wants originals. Will also be nice and easy to throw some 2uF's in parallel when the woofers and ports arrive. Very happy with how these turned out even though they'll live in a box forever.

Claude I have a quick question, I just came into some pretty rough H1's with E networks and am intending to use the delta pro's, add the port and foam and adjust the crossover. This thread is a little overwhelming so just wanted to confirm the 2uF to the tweeter goes to 4uF and the taps change from 1 and 2 to 2 and 3 respectively with the resistor going up to 15ohm. Everything else staying the same (2.2mH inductor and 21uF cap). Other quick question, I would prefer to make new back covers for the sake of not drilling holes in the originals. I have 1" baltic birch handy and would like to avoid spending more money on more plywood for this project. If I did a half inch rabbet to inset the new back panel would this reduction in interior volume affect performance? Quick math looks like that half inch on the back panel would equate to around 2.5L of volume. If it will have a huge impact I could always just do a 1/2" chamfer and have the back panel proud to maintain the volume.