Jump to content

Dave MacKay

Regulars
  • Posts

    253
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Dave MacKay

  1. 1 hour ago, Marvel said:

    Do your cabinet backs have the Klipsch labels? The barrier strips might have been on the top and were rotated to have the installed cups toward the bottom.

     

    That’s an interesting suggestion.

     

    My speakers only have remnants of the labels remaining. What is there is located towards the upper right-hand corner of the backs. The surviving text is the right way around which would indicate that the backs haven’t been rotated (unless the labels were removed and repositioned).

     

    Apart from the screws, there are no holes — or signs of holes that have been filled —- on the backs. That makes me think that what @jcn3 related about his ‘84 Heresy’s may also be applicable to my ‘83s.

    • Like 1
  2. 1 hour ago, jcn3 said:

     

    @Dave MacKay -- the location of that barrier strip has been all over.  On my 75 Heresy 1, it's towards the top as described above, but off to the right.  I just picked up a pair of 84 Heresy 1.5 and the barrier strip is located where your binding post cup is.  I can get a pic later tonight.

    Thanks.

     

    That fits with what I see on my speakers. There aren’t any screw holes visible at the top of the cabinet backs which supports the idea that the barrier strip would have been located where the cut out was made for the binding posts.

  3. I'll be restoring my new-to-me 1983 Heresy 1 speakers. 

     

    My speakers have rectangular binding post cups to connect the speakers to an amp. Here's a photo (the cup is circled in red) of what I mean:

    Cup2.jpg.9e6c8de2f4da208b47b81bab3c4b5ee6.jpg

    The cut-outs for the binding post cups are fairly rough, which made me wonder if they might have been installed by a previous owner rather than at the factory. Would binding post cups have been original to the Heresy?

     

    Or would the Heresy have used a barrier block similar to this:

    Barrier-block.jpg.38789009532e42c0653931a6cb072d52.jpg

    If so, where on the back of the speaker would the barrier block have been located? (I assume it would be centred where the binding post cup is now).

  4. On 10/29/2022 at 2:22 PM, wuzzzer said:

    There’s some really good videos on YouTube to help you get into the miniDSP and REW.  I was pretty fortunate that where I placed my THTs they only needed a tiny bit of EQ.  This is my measured response from them after I dialed them in.  I put a steep high pass filter at 16Hz to give the amp more headroom.

    9634A19D-1491-403E-BB70-94507CF51324.jpeg

     

    I measured my subwoofers (2 x THTLP) the same way you did (UMIK-1, vertical orientation, ear level at MLP). However, my graph is nowhere near as nice as yours:

    1987552409_THTLPsatMLP.png.9d482047fbaa5ecbe76434c78674edb5.png

     

    I'll be paying careful attention to the YouTube video that @The Dude posted in the hope of improving my setup.

  5. On 10/29/2022 at 2:22 PM, wuzzzer said:

    There’s some really good videos on YouTube to help you get into the miniDSP and REW.  I was pretty fortunate that where I placed my THTs they only needed a tiny bit of EQ.  This is my measured response from them after I dialed them in.  I put a steep high pass filter at 16Hz to give the amp more headroom.

    9634A19D-1491-403E-BB70-94507CF51324.jpeg

     

    Impressive!

     

    Will you please share how you took this measurement? I have two THTLPs but haven’t gotten satisfactory measurements with them. I’m not satisfied with the MiniDSP settings I’ve gotten from REW when measuring at MLP.

     

    Usually, when measuring a speaker the microphone is positioned horizontally, 1 m from the speaker mouth. That technique doesn’t apply to subwoofers, especially to ones where the mouth is 6’ above the floor!

     

    Where did you position the microphone when measuring your THTLPs?

  6. 4 hours ago, OO1 said:

    Please post more pictures  of the panels on the top-sides , it's either a stain on  raw birch or a veneer  @JRH   may know more from the log books

     

    Thank-you for the information. 

     

    Although the speakers look to be the same colour from the sides, from the tops one can see that one is quite a bit lighter than the other, as these photos show.

     

    Darker speaker

    Lighter-Heresy.thumb.jpg.d10fdc3acaf53a3f62a63a9d2411b835.jpg

     

    Lighter speaker

    Darker-Heresy.thumb.jpg.e72173964dd33935a53eef5c8ce2009f.jpg

     

    Both speakers side-by-side

    Both-a.thumb.jpg.d789ac22aa3dddfeb9dc5ef12dab7297.jpg

     

  7. Yesterday I purchased a pair of 1983 Heresy speakers (serial numbers 154Y704 and 154Y710). 

    797752181_Heresy-smallf.jpg.76234414e4bf39000b32852edb3a5d54.jpg

    I don't know why the serial numbers are close, but not consecutive. 

     

    Unfortunately the seller wasn't able to tell me about them. Also, the labels on the back of the speakers are missing; only a few shreds remain. 

     

    The speakers have:

    • K-77M tweeters
    • K-52H squawkers
    • K-22E woofers
    • E-2 networks

     

    I'm hoping that Klipsch's records might be able to answer a few questions for me:

    1. The finish on the speakers is quite degraded. What was the original finish on the speakers (e.g., oiled walnut)?
    2. There isn't any sign that there had been a gasket/foam seal on the removable rear panel. Should there be one?
    3. Where was the dealer located that Klipsch shipped the speakers to? 

     

    Thank-you.

  8. 5 hours ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

    I need to glue some badges to grills.  New heritage style cloth, the plasticly kind.

     

    I have some rubber cement, hot glue gun and Gorilla glue.  The Gorilla glue seems too strong but maybe not.  

     

    What do I use? 

     

    I used double-sided carpet tape. It has worked well.

    • Like 1
  9. 15 hours ago, captainbeefheart said:

    One time I removed the capacitors from one board and measured ESR at frequencies of interest. What I mean is testing the 2uF caps in my AA networks for ESR at 100Hz is not useful information. The 13uF I would test 500Hz through 20kHz. The 2uF caps I would test ESR from 5kHz through 20kHz. Comparing the ESR to what the impedance/reactance of these components are between these frequencies will tell you if losses are acceptable or not.

     

    This is very interesting (to me). Would you please explain what equipment is required to take such measurements and how one would go about it?

     

    If you're willing to do that, and if this is deemed inappropriate for this thread, please either send me a PM or start a new thread.

  10. 3 hours ago, Dave A said:

    I am not crazy about fakebook either. DIY Audio is where some of us have ended up going to. I am going to pay more attention there.

     

    I'll have to check out DIYAudio. What other forums would welcome talk about Klipsch modifications?

  11. 16 hours ago, Klipschtastic said:

    I have turned of the parametric eq because Im guessing I would need a mic and room measuring software to really use that feature. So what advice do you all have for tweaking the sub?

    You might want to get REW (Room EQ Wizard, which is free software) and a calibrated microphone (such as a UMIK-1) so that you can take measurements to quantify the affect of different settngs and changes.

     

    REW is not an easy piece of software to master but it is marvellous. It helped me determine some of the challenges associated with my listening room and assess room treatments. Using it, I was able to ascertain that 1 subwoofer was never going to be adequate for my room. It also helped with subwoofer placement and configuring my DSP (a MiniDSP 2x4HD).

  12. 5 hours ago, Klipschtastic said:

    CHT 12. Budget wise, I mean I need to do justice to the Cornwalls. I can buy one sub at a time so I’m thinking somewhere around the SVS 2000 for $899. Give or take. Maybe a pair of the SVS 1000s would suffice?

    I matched an SVS SB 1000 Pro subwoofer to my La Scalas and was pretty pleased with it. It performed much better than the old Klipsch subwoofer I had been using, so +1 on the SVS.

     

    However, ultimately, I replaced the SVS subwoofer with a pair of THTLP subwoofers. If you're handy, a THT or THTLP can be built for about the price of an SVS 2000. The THTLP is excellent.

     

    Using two subs --- rather than one --- was the only way I could tame some room issues. If you go with >1 subwoofer, plan on getting a MiniDSP 2x4HD. It will make a world of difference.

    • Like 4
  13. 22 hours ago, Islander said:

    Dave, your blonde La Scalas look great (yes, that’s what many Birch Raw speakers get called

     

    Interestingly, that's what mine had been dubbed before I refinished them.

     

    When a neighbour was helping me move them around, he dubbed the Raw Birch La Scalas "the blondes" on account of their colour and of how much attention I was paying to them. 😄

     

    Before I settled on veneering them in Sapele, I considered both Birch and Anigre veneers so that the speakers could retain their nickname. However, I wasn't keen on the grain of the birch veneer and the Anigre veneer that my supplier had wasn't very appealing so that I ended up going with the Sapele.

    • Like 2
  14. On 8/25/2022 at 11:56 AM, Coytee said:

    I concur.  It looks to me like you hired an interior decorator....and they got the furnishings, rug, speakers all to compliment each other.

     

    (now we find out he spent 30 years as an interior decorator)

    I'm still ROTFLMAO 😄

     

    My wife has been wanting to hire a decorator to choose new paint colours because the current colours (i.e., my choices) are hopelessly old and dated. With glee, I showed her this post. She just shook her head. I'm not sure, but in my mind I think this means I'm +1.

    • Like 1
  15. 3 hours ago, hanksjim1 said:

    Interested in which THTLPs you went with?

     

    Can post a picture of them?..I am thinking about building some for my LaScalas

     

    I have two of the smallest-size THTLPs; each measures 18" x 15" x 72". Each has a 12" driver and is driven by a 250W plate amplifier (mounted on the back of the THTLP). I needed a MiniDSP 2x4HD to "dial them in" so that they sounded good with my system.

     

    The subwoofers are in diagonal corners of my living room, as per this diagram:

    122987674_subwooferplacement.thumb.png.f76aded615d3e78a03e8fc21c0835f51.png

     

    Since the subwoofers are prominent in my living room, I veneered them to match my La Scalas. I would class my woodworking skills as "intermediate" and I found them easy and enjoyable to build.

     

    This shows the two THTLPs:

    THTLPs.png.75f9bf11d58bdd9d6f485b66e7075cc5.png

     

     

    • Like 6
×
×
  • Create New...