BretAB

I was thinking running on n-1 Raid5 drives, or switching to/from a backup VM. Always something . . .

Just a fyi to build up my post count to 5 so I can PM: The torx screws that hold the backplate/amp onto the cabinet are T-20 . Regards . . . P.S. That worked. At 5 now and can PM. Sorry for the intrusions.

HI again EpicKlipschFan, I just tried to PM ngen33r and received forum message, "You are only allowed to send 0 messages per day. Please try again later." Any idea how can I contact that person? I haven't ever PM'd anyone on this forum yet. Hmm . . .

Hi EpicKlipschFan, Oicu812, Et Al, First, I have an UPDATE ON THE FUSE SPEC: I spoke with a LittleFuse tech rep yesterday and got edjekated: The difference between these "Slow Blow" and "Time Delay" glass cartridge fuses has evolved over the years. Either type can have the "T" designation meaning they take time to do their job. The wound variety were the earlier design and still manufactured and work fine. That said, the newer design non-wound variety are more common these days and I was told are functionally the same (and appear easier to manufacture). I just found an excellent article from a relievable source that discusses this. Fyi, the Littlefuse p/n for a non-wound T2AL250VP is 0218002.mnpx . The Test: My fuses (the wound variety) arrived last night. The bad news was that they blew almost immediately. I blew two of a box of twenty just to make sure. The good news was that the LCD on top of the box lit up before the power was cut off, so probably no water or other damage there or the display board electronics. EpicKlipschFan, I will contact ngen33r as you suggested. Thanks for the helpful posts: ) Regards . . .

Hi, I had no reply so far and I want to finish this repair project, so I went digging and found the answer: Go here Klipsch - Fuse Specs for Powered Subwoofers and download the xlsx. The row for the RW-10 (no RW010D listed) shows Bad url, but shows us it's Parts-Express.com part number 071-862 . Go to parts-express.com and search for 071-862. The part is no longer available from this vendor, but the description at that site shows "Littelfuse 2A GDC Type 5 x 20mm Slo-Blo Fuse 5 Pcs" and "GDC / GMA type 5 mm x 20 mm Slo-Blo® time-lag fuse". Designed to International (IEC) Standards for use globally. Rated at 250 VAC. RoHS compliant and lead free. 5 per package, plastic box." That agrees with the xlsx's 2A. As I just learned, it should be noted that there's a difference between a "Slow Blow" and a "Time Delay Fuse", as noted here: https://www.hunker.com/13414366/difference-between-slow-blow-time-delay-fuse , where we see "Slow blow (time delay) fuses have built-in time delay features that prevent them from blowing during intermittent current surges (large motors, air conditioners and dryers). Time delay fuses blow under constant or repeated current overload conditions." Note the words "intermittent" and "constant". The xlsx column header specifically says "FUSE TYPE (SLOW BLOW)" (and the RW-10 cell has "2A"). Additionally, at Wikipedia it is further explained that, "A standard fuse may require twice its rated current to open in one second, a fast-blow fuse may require twice its rated current to blow in 0.1 seconds, and a slow-blow fuse may require twice its rated current for tens of seconds to blow." Problem solved. Hth someone sometime : ) Regards . . .

Hi Klipsch Forum Members, This is my first post in your forum and I appreciate that opportunity. I recently found one of these RW10D placed nicely out on the sidewalk for the trash pickup. I looked to be in like-new condition. Not a ding on it anywhere. I popped the cover off and there was no visible damage. So I proceeded to carry it home ~1/4 mile, stopping to rest every couple hundred feet. This baby has some weight to it!. Luckily, about half way home, a neighbor saw my predicament and offered to haul me and the cabinet home. Moving on . . . It wouldn't power up. I checked and the speaker checks out at 4.8 ohms, so at least I have a cabinet and a speaker. I looked everywhere and couldn't find a fuse on the board. I was about ready to give up and just buy a replacement subwoofer amp to hook this up to, when luckily today I found your forum! First I found another thread ( RW10D Fuse Location ) that says the fuse is right under the power cord receptacle. So I pull the fuse, and it's blown. Needless to say, I'm very happy that the previous owner didn't check this (there were no DIY screw driver marks on the fuse cap, which btw, is removed by inserting a small flat blade screw driver in the slot under the cap, and leveraging upward). So now I need a fuse to test further. The fuse cap itself is engraved with "USE ONLY WITH A 250V FUSE". The fuse itself is engraved with T2AL250VP (aka T2AL250V P, or T2AL250VP LF) (the T signifying slow blow, 2A, 250V, and the P means Lead Free). Additionally, it's form factor is a "little fuse" (ie. LF") that is 5mm x 20mm. The fuse glass is burnt internally and I can't tell if was a wound conductor, or a solid wire conductor. My research seems to indicate that the "P" fuses have a wound conductor, but I'm not an expert on fuses. I see in this (wonderful) thread (thank you LiveFreeAndRoam), that 1A is mentioned. Unfortunately, LiveFreeAndRoam's September 10, 2010 bulleted link above ( "RW-10D fuse value" ) and the other bulleted links in that post no longer work (RIP aspx TG!). Does anyone know for certain what the spec'd fuse is for the RW10D? If it matters, an internal sticker says "RW10D 120V" and the lower sticker says RW10DB+06440186. Thank you for you help. Your comments and corrections are always welcome : ) Regards . . .