Okay, I tested my hack and it works perfectly.
I was afraid of the floating or open contacts (whether they were pulled up or down) but looks like they are internally handled.
Although intercepting the pink line is ideal, it doesn't disable the Bluetooth (and folks can still connect if you intercept that line).
So instead I recommend intercepting the "3.3v POWER" line (marked in red). This works perfectly, but unfortunately also disables the power LED indicator as a side effect.
Instructions (DISABLES BLUETOOTH PERMENANTLY):
- Please turn off power to the speaker system and disconnect it from all devices before performing any invasive procedures.
- Use an exacto knife or blade to "precisely" cut the trace to the power line as shown in the diagram.
Instructions (ADDS BLUETOOTH ON/OFF FUNCTIONALITY)
- Please turn off power to the speaker system and disconnect it from all devices before performing any invasive procedures.
- Use an exacto knife or blade to "precisely" cut the trace to the power line as indicated in the diagram.
- Solder a switch either directly or using wire extensions to the 2 opened trace points. The switch needs to be a toggle switch, slide switch or latching switch (and NOT a momentary pushbutton switch).
- The wires can exit the back of the circuit housing and the switch can be attached to the side of the casing.
WARNING : Please turn off power to the speaker system and disconnect it from all devices before performing any invasive procedures.
WARNING : Cutting the Bluetooth power line will also disable the POWER LED indicator.
WARNING : Do not cut any other traces, this procedure is permanent and not easily reversible.
INFO : To reverse the procedure, solder a wire between the two opened contacts.
As an alternative. You can do this procedure on the trace indicated by the pink trace (as indicated in the previous post) which will preserve the power LED. But that will keep the BT always on and still hackable, but will only give you control over the audio channel priority (LINE-IN/AUX vs BT).
